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Unread 03/29/2012, 06:11 PM   #26
0 tds
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh_84 View Post
If it wasn't so difficult at this poing to add a gate, I would do it. Thanks again!
You can add the gate valve to the end of the drain pipe. Down in the sump if you want. If you can't get the ball valve to work then I would leave it open 100% and just add the gate valve in the sump area. This should be an easy fix.

Also where you are going to cut the pipe? I would make sure there is not another reason to the problem before I would cut any pipe.

When you start up do you get enough flow that all 3 pipes have water?


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Unread 03/29/2012, 06:39 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by uncleof6 View Post
No there is no truth to the story that a certain amount of flow is required to start the siphon
Yes there is an amount of flow that is required. If you were running 100 GPH down a 4" pipe you will never reach a full siphon. Extreme case I know, just trying to make the point that the reason the valve is there is to restrict the flow enough to get the full siphon. If the drain pipes can handle the flow then you will never reach a full siphon. This is why you restrict the flow with the valve. However you don't want to restrict too much or you will put too much water down the open drain and that will cause noise and air bubbles. That brings us to the gate valve and the sweet spot.

My guess is that with a 1400 GPH pump with head loss and loss due to the split to the DSB and the tee and unions and ball valves there is less than 1000 GPH delivered to the tank. Bean is running at 2000 GPH and has his valve 30% closed.

I stand by my recommendation to close the valve to say 50% and see if that helps. This is such an easy fix why not try it?


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Unread 03/29/2012, 07:23 PM   #28
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There is no minimum flow requirement, for this system to operate properly. It is designed as a 1 size fits all. If the design and adjustment are done properly, there will be no problem starting the system. I could be wrong, I have only done a couple hundred of these systems.


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Last edited by uncleof6; 03/29/2012 at 07:42 PM.
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Unread 03/29/2012, 09:30 PM   #29
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I only plan to shorten the amount of pipe below the water line in the sump to reduce restriction. I's currentlly around 3" below water. No I dont have all 3 pipes flowing at startup. The open channel picks up the flow pretty quickly and handles it before it gets high enough to go down the emergency drain. As mentioned, my friend has the same setup running with a smaller pump and his starts no problem everytime.


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Unread 03/30/2012, 09:41 PM   #30
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Great news! I shortened the drains today so they only go about 1.5" below the water surface and that solved the problem! Starts flawlessly everytime now! Thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions. Especially Uncleof6!


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