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05/07/2012, 11:06 AM | #26 |
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: chicago Burbs
Posts: 479
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Have you tested for ALK?
In my tank - one of the sure signs that the kalk reactor has run low is the appearance of cyano. I do not believe that they are directly related (not like higher alk levels remove nitrates and prevent cyano_) - but there are definitely some multiple level affects going on in all of our tanks. For me - low ALK = bad coral health = the corals MIGHT not be filtering out what they used to = more available nitrates for the cyano and bad algae.
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call me "w" - easier to remember Current Tank Info: 125g All Glass rr, 50g sump/fuge, RKE, T5 Retrofit Lights, Deltec Turbo Skimmer, PM Kalk Reactor |
05/07/2012, 12:06 PM | #27 |
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: where the wind comes sweeping down the plains
Posts: 509
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It sounds like you need a larger diversity of bacteria. The vodka will only feed the existing bacteria. This (monoculture) of bacteria is likely why you cannot get a drop in nitrates and phoshates.
i would suggest using a product like microbactor 7 or prodibio to geg the bacteria balance in check. Just think of like a septic tank on your house, it also needs bacteria to work and disolve waste, and the occasional use of a bacteria product like rid-ex makes sure the bacteria are numrous enough to get the job done!
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sent from my laptop while sitting on the couch! Current Tank Info: 75 gallon display, 20 gallon sump, 20 gallon display fuge, vertex IN100 skimmer, apex, tunze 6055x2, tlc kalkreactor/phosreactor, APEX controlled LED |
05/07/2012, 12:39 PM | #28 |
Editor-Reefkeeping mag
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Don't throw in the towel. I have had a cyano problem for three months. Didn't have any for the first 10 months. THEN i changed out my bulb from a 12k coralvue 150w to a Phoenix 14k 150w. The light was MUCH brighter, and much bluer. So my trachyphyllia started bleaching.
So we added a screen cover to diffuse the light for the tracyphyllia. My trachyphyllia stopped bleaching, and began growing larger. Then shortly after came the cyano. It only appears (every day) on the two top rocks. So as Sk8tr said, odd colored, diffused lighting, was what started it. And nutrients (building up my rocks) kept it going. I had read about adding more water circulation so i moved the output nozzle about 2", pointing the flow at those two rocks. Now i only have cyano on one rock. Also, nutrient-wise, i read here about blowing the rocks off with a plastic turkey baster. The first time i did that i could-not-believe-the-amount-of-crap that came flying out all over the tank. The cyano got less and less each time i blew my rocks off. It took about three months, and now cyano remains only on the one rock, and the rest of the rocks are clean with coralline growth showing up now.
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~April Editor-Reefkeeping Magazine Last edited by IridescentLily; 05/07/2012 at 12:48 PM. |
05/07/2012, 02:14 PM | #29 |
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 329
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OMG I would love to work on your tank, I love a good challenge!
Okay, lets get serious here, time to go nuclear. Set up a quick QT using NOTHING from your tank. Just Dr. Tims One and Only it. Move your livestock out and NUKE THAT TANK. Use some Red Slime Algae Killer and NUKE away! Run it until it's all dead. Get youself a GFO/Carbon Reactor, gotta get rid of those phosphates stored up in your rocks and sand. Turn the lights out and let it all die. Scrub your LR, clean your sand, everything then put in nice new water and keep that GFO/Carbon fresh and running. Good luck I'm rooting for you! |
05/07/2012, 03:38 PM | #30 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Damascus, MD
Posts: 3,340
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Quote:
However, I had hoped to just move the corals out and leave the fish in, but with as much algae as I have, just the dieoff alone could kill everything. But I am going to run my fluval canister in it for mechanical filtration to get rid of everything floating around. I think massive overfeeding for the first 4-5 months that I had the tank running has resulted in an enormous buildup of nitrates and phosphates. I was feeding 2-3x per day and probably feeding 5x as much as they needed at each feeding. Once I move out the coral, I was going to start with the turkey baster and blast away and let my sump and the fluval pick up as much as possible. btw: My frogspawn popped another head today. So the original 4 heads is down to one. I found 2 of the popped heads and they are in glasses in the tank and one is lost. I am afraid to move the livestock out because I don't think I can keep the QT tank healthy for the month or so it is going to take to nuke everything and re-cycle and get it all back to usable unless it is fully cycled. So not sure - once I get the QT tank up and running I'll see how long it takes to get a cycle. I have plenty of rock in the sump to seed it with so I am hoping it can get going quickly.
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125RR in-wall, 40B Sump, CS180 BM Skimmer, ATI 4x80 watt, eheim 1262, custom wrap around rock wall, ReefKeeper Elite 120g in-wall, 40B Sump, PC 54wx4, Jabao DC-6000 (full siphon), future seahorse t Current Tank Info: 125g, 120g, 2x40b sumps, ATI 4x80 T5HO |
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05/08/2012, 08:43 AM | #31 |
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 329
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Just order some Dr. Tims (order it direct from them) and throw it in, along with the LR you sould be ready in no time.
Good luck! |
05/08/2012, 10:11 AM | #32 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,761
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When you set the tank back up, replace that chaeto with a good algae scrubber. They are cheap and easy to make and will work for you I think. Grow all that algae down in the sump/fuge and keep it out of the DT for next time
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135g mixed reef (retired) http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2132815 Current 40g reef http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2483250 Current Tank Info: 40g bare bottom reef |
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05/08/2012, 02:09 PM | #33 | |
Coral Hoarder
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 2,247
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Quote:
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Alex FMAS Member Current Tank Info: 400 Gallons of frags... 30 gallon Deep Blue mixed reef ... 70 other tanks throughout south FL |
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