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12/14/2012, 04:17 PM | #26 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,670
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Quote:
What you should learn from this are just too key points. 1. Equipment failure happens and learning to cope with it is skill 2. QT is necessary. Some pathogens such as ich definitely requires ERADICATION. For heater failure, I have two lower rated heaters. Also, sometimes I use a timer instead of relying on the sticky bi-metal thermostat. I estimate the time the heater needs to be on. Developing the skill to eradicate ich and misc disease control will be necessary. I had a few ich breakouts until about 25 years ago, since then I have not had a single case of ich. Eradication WORKS very well. |
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12/14/2012, 04:46 PM | #27 |
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 642
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Well, I don't want to sound harsh but you are having these issues because you are not doing the reading...there are stickies on this website for a reason...because they were deamed important enough to permanently stick at the top of the "new to this hobby" section...meaning, that is the first thing you should read and become familiar with.
We could all sit here all day long and explain what to do...but that is all in the stickies. I will though take a moment and explain some quick things to do. First, buy two smaller heaters, because they do fail. Buy a QUALITY one, something like an eheim jager or something. Second, quarantine EVERYTHING. There is a sticky for quarantining your livestock, which you failed to do and hence failed to read the part about marine ich and how it takes about 6 weeks to progress through its life cycle and that ich is contageous...it will spread to everything in your tank so wherever you got that information about it "just goes away" is completely inaccurate...reading the stickies would have taught you that... Next, there is no way you can have all that livestock in your tank, let alone a tang of ANY kind...no matter how small. Tangs grow to about a foot...your tank can't hold that. And even when small, tangs love to dart from end to end of the tank. They are swimmers and are aggressive and even more aggressive if not in a large enough home, IE at least 75 gallons. I wouldn't put one in a tank smaller than 120 gallons because fish do grow and they would outgrow a 75 gallon. I am sorry you are having a hard time with this hobby, but it would have been a lot easier had you had patience and read the stickies...as I see nothing that you did incorrectly that wasn't covered in detail in the stickies...some steps you just can't skip my friend. Happy reefing.
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Work in Progress: 75g Rimless DT | 20g sump | Aquamaxx ConeS-1 | Two Tunze Turbelle 6025 Tank established 02/16/14 |
12/14/2012, 05:38 PM | #28 |
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 747
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Ok I am sorry I have to say this I call BS on this. Whos tank gets to 57* with out a heater? My house stays 70 to 72 year round. Because of that we don't have a heater on our seahorse tank. When you leave town how cold do you set your house? Since we have got into this hobby we haven't set our house temp below 70 ever. I just have a hard time believing this.
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12/14/2012, 05:43 PM | #29 | |
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Location: Chicago 60607
Posts: 1,130
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Quote:
Also luck did not, as you so eloquently put it, "poop in a toilet". Unless you know something I don't, physics had a great deal more to do with it that luck ever did.
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...and life spirals into astonishing diversity. Current Tank Info: Hawaiian inspired 109g Miracles Rimless - 100g Prop Tank - 300g total system volume |
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12/14/2012, 05:45 PM | #30 | |
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Location: Virginia Beach
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12/14/2012, 05:49 PM | #31 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Chicago 60607
Posts: 1,130
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Quote:
Sorry to derail this gem of a thread...
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...and life spirals into astonishing diversity. Current Tank Info: Hawaiian inspired 109g Miracles Rimless - 100g Prop Tank - 300g total system volume |
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12/14/2012, 05:53 PM | #32 |
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 6,659
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Tags |
dead, ich, new tank, tang, tank crash |
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