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12/11/2013, 12:53 PM | #26 |
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 256
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a mag 7 would be able to heat about 65 gallons of water in house is kept at 70 degrees ambient year round? thats kind of nuts lol! any suggestions for an alternative?
my thought process behind two smaller heaters was that if one gets stuck in the on position, it shouldnt have the power to roast the tank on its own. the other heater (assuming functioning properly)wouldnt turn on in that scenario. at worst, it would take the aquarium a little bit longer to heat up, giving me time to get home to fix it. as for the reefbreeders photon 48, i think im stuck on that one bud. just the programability alone has me sold. @ C1turbo, can i see a picture of your 20L sump? i still have yet to baffle it and am looking for ideas |
12/11/2013, 12:58 PM | #27 |
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 199
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Two lower watt heaters vs one higher watt one is a good idea. However, maybe set up tank first and see what type of heating or chilling solution you will need. I dont think the temperature needs to be precise for cycling. Btw this summer I was battling to keep my tank cool and now I have my heaters on. Take a look at neotherm cobolt aquatic heaters. Small form factor and prob shatter proof
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12/11/2013, 02:02 PM | #28 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 813
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Quote:
I have that eheim compact + 3000 pump on my 90 Gal and am happy with the flow. The pump is really quiet and doesnt put out much heat at all. You can find cheaper on Amazon though. I paid $99 for mine. I would go with higher Koralea powerheads. I bought a 1150 GPH model because from the numbers it sounded like it was going to really move some water in my tank but I def thought it was under powered in mine so i bought 2 more 1500 GPH models and added them in there in addition to that. Now i have really good flow. We have the same length tank mine is just deeper so what works in mine will be good in yours too. You can get good deals on these powerheads from DrsFosterSmith.com. The 1500's are $49.99 and the 1150 are $39.99. I also have the eheim jager heater 300watt. I am not that impressed with this heater. I am having a hard time getting mine to keep the tank at the temp on the heater. Its continuously heating the tank higher than the temp i have it set on, even after i have recalibrated it. I have that same refractometer and am very happy with it. I also bought my RO unit from BRS and had problems with it in the beginning but i cant say enough about how great their customer service is. They kept sending me replacement parts for free until the problem was fixed. No questions asked, if you have a problem they want to make it right. I have the 75GPD with the 75GPD upgrade. I opted our of the DI stage because I dont feel i need it. I also have the booster pump to increase my pressure which is needed for the 150GPD upgrade i have. It also dramatically reduced my waster water production. You mentioned going with the BRS dry rock i think in a later post. I would research that stuff more because i seem to recall reading about that particular rock leaching phosphates bad in tanks unless you take precautions before putting it in your tank. I could be wrong but i would feel bad if i didnt at least get you looking into it. I bought my florida base rock from reefcleaners.org. He has very good pricing, its all been powerwashed and will not leach anything into your water. He is also pretty cool with you sending him requests of certain shapes and sizes and he will do his best to accomodate that with what he has. I was very happy with the 2 shipments i got from him. Thats all i can offer as far as the equipment you have listed on there. I will say that you need to think about where you are going to put your RO unit and if you are going to be setting up a saltwater mixing station or not. I have mine set up in my garage and using 2 brute trash cans as my mixing station with a Panworld pump to move the water between the two or pump water from either to my tank via a nylon braided hose. If you arent sure why i am bringing up the mixing station, its because you will need somewhere to store your RO/Di water once made and its nice to be able to keep large volumes of this on hand for topoffs and saltwater for your water changes. Turning your unit on and waiting to fill a container each time would get old and i wouldnt see this as a conveniece really at all. If you want to go this route you will need to add a float value onto your BRS order. You will need a thermometer, salt mix, mag float (highly recommended), net, epoxy to help with your aquascaping, timers, food, etc. Dont forget to consider all of this because it adds up quickly. |
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12/11/2013, 02:06 PM | #29 |
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9
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yeah ill post a pic of my sump when I get home, what I was told when I first started was don't think about how much it cost the first year getting ever thing going because it will scare you
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Craig Current Tank Info: 20l starter reef, 55g reef, in process of building a 90 reef |
12/11/2013, 03:29 PM | #30 |
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9
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the divided part is behind the center brace of my stand
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Craig Current Tank Info: 20l starter reef, 55g reef, in process of building a 90 reef |
12/11/2013, 05:10 PM | #31 |
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 503
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btmedic04
If you can stand more advice I suggest getting the Lifereef overflow instead of any other HOB (hang on the back) overflow. Far more reliable than any other, and doesn't require a pump to keep the siphon running. Also I would get live rock instead of dried live rock. You may get pest organisms but you probably won't and it's a lot more interesting than dead rock. Premium Aquatics has good rock. 4 t-5s will work fine for all but the most demanding corals, I use 6 t-5s over a 50 gallon tank (36 X 18 X 18) which works fine for a tank of montiporas and pavonas. |
12/11/2013, 06:29 PM | #32 |
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 256
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thank you all for the advice! I can always stand more hehehe. since the original equipment list, I've decided to get the tank drilled rather than use an overflow kit. just seems more reliable and safer from what I've read. plus it looks cleaner. as far as plumbing goes, I haven't a clue.cleaner been trying to find a how to on it. would greatly appreciate any advice here.
thank you c1 for the sump picture. that helps a lot! |
12/11/2013, 06:51 PM | #33 |
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 503
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You can drill it yourself and install an overflow, if you're up to it. Take a look at www.glass-holes.com.
I'm thinking about doing it myself, when the weather warms up and I can do it outside. Last edited by Al; 12/11/2013 at 06:56 PM. |
12/11/2013, 06:52 PM | #34 |
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posts: 239
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I would say the more live rock than dead the better. All live rock is gonna be expensive but nice to look at, maybe half live and half dead or 2/3 live and stack the dead stuff (It will turn live over time) on the bottom.
As for Filtration: 1pd Live Rock per gallon, about 2 inches live sand, Protein Skimmer, Surface Skimmer (Your overflow will probably have surface skimmer, It just takes water from surface and will put any oils or stuff in sump) I'd say those are most important/best filtration methods, Refugium and Algae Turf Scrubber are maybe 2nd best IMO. Bag of Carbon is cheap and good filtration too. Depending on what you want to do (you said FOWLR) maybe use the lighting that came with and eventually go with LED's when you get the itch to add some corals. |
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