Turning off everything 2 hours a day?

[twinturbo11]

Originally Posted by BossHoggin

I use a check valve on my return after plugging the hole in my return drilled for syphon breakage based on noise and water spraying the glass lid causing light blocking algae

is there a risk that the "check valve" might get covered/stuck with salt ? because if power goes off, and the whole tank drains in my sump, it would be a complete disaster...

[higorc]

Originally Posted by twinturbo11

is there a risk that the "check valve" might get covered/stuck with salt ? because if power goes off, and the whole tank drains in my sump, it would be a complete disaster...

Hey man, there is always a risk any kind of check valve will fail, no matter how expensive and type.

A lot of people like to use check valves, I personally never did. For me is just one more think to fail and that could go wrong.

If you have a sump big enough, why not set a "Max" water level so u can accommodate the extra water from the display tank when ur return pump is off ? I guarantee you that u won't have to ever worry about a flood this way.

To each his own, but I'm all for eliminating "fail" points in this hobby when ever possible!

uploadfromtaptalk1383312708584.jpg

Higor

[power boat jim]

I would not use a check valve. I just put the returns into the tank at a depth where if the pump shuts off, the siphon breaks before the sump fills.

[BossHoggin]

Ive ran a check valve for 3 years now. Only cleaned it once, seemed like a waste of time as it is not close enough to the heat of the pump to clog up with calcification, does not let light in to grow algae and the flow rate is too high for sponge to run wild inside. Its the flip top rubber and pvc kind dont get the ones with a metal spring or "pizza saver" looking thing inside that are cheap at hardware stores. Only caveat is flow restriction (~20%?) because the part inside has to be pushed upwards and to the side. FWIW i lost more flow to the syphon i break i drilled into my lock line

[twinturbo11]

Originally Posted by power boat jim

I would not use a check valve. I just put the returns into the tank at a depth where if the pump shuts off, the siphon breaks before the sump fills.

So what you are saying is to make a hole on the return pipe, about 1 inch below the water level. If the power goes off, only 1 inch worth of water will go into the sump (which would be ok, it could contain it), until the water level reaches the hole and the syphon breaks? And the advantage would be that the sound is eliminated, but need to watch out for Algae ?

[twinturbo11]

Originally Posted by higorc

If you have a sump big enough, why not set a "Max" water level so u can accommodate the extra water from the display tank when ur return pump is off ? I guarantee you that u won't have to ever worry about a flood this way.

To each his own, but I'm all for eliminating "fail" points in this hobby when ever possible!

You know what, you are right. I've had a ball valve fail on me before (luckily my wife caught the flood in time), so I agree - screw the check valve!

What do you mean by max water level? As in make the hole on the return pipe just below the water level, assuming the sump can handle a little bit of water?

[dkeller_nc]

Something you may or may not have considered with respect to turning off your in-tank flow from your MP40s - have you thought about installing an Apex with the WXM module, and just having the apex drop the speed of the pumps to 20% of max during the couple of hours you want low-noise conditions?

Just an opinion, but I would not personally take the risk of turning off my return pump or in-tank flow just to reduce noise levels. If it really, really bothers you, I'd seriously consider rearranging my room so that my head wasn't right next to the tank.

Failing that, and after silencing your tank's drain, I would set a controller to automatically ramp down the vortechs, turn off the skimmer, and potentially ramp down a DC controllable return pump if that wasn't enough.

Another idea that's worth doing would be insulating the inside of the cabinet with closed-cell insulating foam. The space under a tank stand is a pretty efficient echo chamber, and will magnify the audibility of motor hum and water flow noises.

[higorc]

I

Originally Posted by twinturbo11

You know what, you are right. I've had a ball valve fail on me before (luckily my wife caught the flood in time), so I agree - screw the check valve!

What do you mean by max water level? As in make the hole on the return pipe just below the water level, assuming the sump can handle a little bit of water?

If u look at the pic I posted off my sump, there are 3 lines. First is minimum, middle is ideal and the lat line is "Max" water level when the return pump is running to avoid a flood.

To get the "Max" water level, u turn the return pump off and let the water in the display tank (DT) drain to the sump. Make sure the DT has enough water so the sump gets filled to the top just before it floods. Now turn the return pump back on and mark the water level in the sump as the Max water level. I usually mark it about 1 inch under the real MAX just to be extra sure it won't overflow the sump.

Now u know that as long as you don't go above that water level while the return pump is on, the sump will be able to accommodate the water that will drain from the DT and u won't get a flood...

One think to consider is to have ur skimmer shut off with the return pump so u don't overflow the collection cup when the water in the DT drains to the sump.

Hope this helps.

Higor

[tmz]

Oxygen depletion is one issue of significant conern. Bacterial ativity that may occur in anoxic areas is another.. FWIW, the only time mine equiment shuts down is during a power outage. Even then if it goes more than an hour I use the generator.

[power boat jim]

Originally Posted by twinturbo11

So what you are saying is to make a hole on the return pipe, about 1 inch below the water level. If the power goes off, only 1 inch worth of water will go into the sump (which would be ok, it could contain it), until the water level reaches the hole and the syphon breaks? And the advantage would be that the sound is eliminated, but need to watch out for Algae ?

That is one way. [I] dont have siphon breaks on mine. I just plumbed it so the pipes that put water back into the tank are only 1 to1 1/2 inches below the water surface. When the pump shuts off the tank water siphons back up them only an inch or so. After that air gets sucked in and breaks the siphon.