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06/26/2014, 09:13 AM | #26 |
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what size tank>?????
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06/26/2014, 09:35 AM | #27 |
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Hate to add but the above post are true. I feel like I could type you a book and you would probably just ignore the advice. There has been several threads where you ignored great advice and took the stubborn route.
To add. I would start with a few large water changes and lights out for three days. We also need more info as we only seem to get bits and pieces from you at a time. If you truly want help, step up and ask for it and listen to the advice given. |
06/26/2014, 10:23 AM | #28 | |
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06/26/2014, 10:24 AM | #29 | |
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I am trying to find out the answers to problems. Just usually I do not get any answers. |
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06/26/2014, 12:50 PM | #30 |
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I once removed a rock that was infested with Neomeris algae and dunked it into a bucket of hydrogen peroxide (whatever strength it comes from the Walmart bottle at, not diluted). The rock had a small monti cap attached, which I was ready to lose anyway. After being dunked about 5 minutes, the monti looked completely dead for over a month. After a couple more months, it has colored back up and has now more than doubled in size.
So, mine wasn't happy but did survive and is now growing nicely.
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06/26/2014, 03:39 PM | #31 | |
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06/26/2014, 10:16 PM | #32 | |
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I do a Water Change Once a Week 4 Fish 55 Gallon Aquarium The Algae is just on the Plug and too Small to manually remove. (It is not Long Hair Algae). |
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06/27/2014, 12:32 PM | #33 |
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for that size tank, i would get 2 turbos, 2 tuxedo urchins and maybe a hectors goby for natural algea control, rather than going with a chemical control.
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06/27/2014, 05:41 PM | #34 | |
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But why cover up an algae issue with a CUC. There are obviously nutrient issues. Cant agree with that advice. To the OP. How many gallons are your water changes? How many kinds of algae do you have in your tank now? |
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06/27/2014, 09:45 PM | #35 |
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06/27/2014, 09:46 PM | #36 | |
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06/27/2014, 09:57 PM | #37 |
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Manual algae removal, export of nutrients via water changes (include blowing off the rocks and siphoning the sand), change your socks frequently, skim agressively.
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06/27/2014, 10:02 PM | #38 | |
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I have tried Manual Removal (Toothbrush) but it does not come off. It seems that it likes to get on my Frag Plugs themselves where the Coral has not encrusted yet. I do not have Algae Problems anywhere else - Just the Frag Plugs (Where I do not want it). |
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06/27/2014, 10:30 PM | #39 |
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So what do YOU think is the problem! You have disregarded all advice so you must have a theory.
Seriously, go through your threads for the last couple of months. Beside your various other problems and emergencies. you have been mentioning hair algae on your frags for months. When are you going to stop looking for easy fixes and fix the underlying cause? For instance even you admit to an elevated phosphate level, and considering most of your phosphate is bound up in your algea it is a level very conducive to its growth. Please stop arguing with people who are trying to help. You have assimilated much knowledge from very knowledgable people on this site. Why not share some with others? I have failed to see any instance when you have shared anything you have learned or become a productive member of this community. I don't mean to sound harsh. No wait, I do. Wake up call. |
06/27/2014, 11:30 PM | #40 | |
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In the Past I did dip Zoanthids (with Hair Algae) in Peroxide. But currently I do not have any Hair Algae. Maybe you assumed I had Hair Algae from that reference. And When did I admit to having a High Phosphate Level? It was a Low Phosphate Level that I said I had. You are not reading what I am writing apparently. And yes I do help others out so please do not say I do not as that would be lying. |
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06/28/2014, 10:59 AM | #41 |
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Steve - With regards to frag plugs, many of us have noticed that they tend to grow inordinate amounts of algae. This appears to be especially true of the "concrete" frag plugs from Indonesian coral aquaculture operations.
The issue is that even if you nuke the algae on the frag plug, it comes back quickly from algal spores elsewhere in the system. It's hard to say this definitively without chemical analysis, but I strongly suspect that many types of frag plugs are providing nutrients to the algae that are otherwise limiting in reef tanks. The only way I can personally see to combat this is either to remove the frag plugs entirely (this is what I do - I break the coral off of the frag plug and glue it to a piece of live rock rubble), add biological control to keep the algae in check, manually remove the algae with a toothbrush, and wait for the coral to overgrow the entire surface of the plug so that the algae doesn't have a surface to grow on. Regarding hydrogen peroxide, the normal 3% concentration available at the drugstore is likely to kill most coral if it's left in it long enough. Perhaps a better solution would be to remove the coral and frag plug, and use a small paintbrush to "paint" the peroxide on the offending algae. Then leave the plug out of the water for a minute or so to allow the peroxide you've painted on the plug to do its work. I've used this method with success in the past, though as noted above, it was a temporary success. |
06/29/2014, 01:24 AM | #42 | |
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So should I change the Plugs? What brands attract Less Algae? I am using Ocean's Wonders. Are Ocean's Wonder's known for Attracting Algae? http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/oceans...25-pack-1.html The Above Link are the Exact Plugs that I am using if you are not familiar. |
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06/29/2014, 02:20 AM | #43 |
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I use a colgate deep durable reaction toothbrush with whitening power bristles. It works good.
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06/29/2014, 10:34 AM | #44 |
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I've no idea whether one brand or another would provide more/less nutrients to algae than any other. I'd guess that it depends on how much phosphate and iron would be in the starting clay or other minerals that gets fired into the ceramic plugs.
As I noted, I don't use frag plugs, I use live rock rubble. |
06/30/2014, 09:19 AM | #45 | |
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