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09/19/2014, 02:44 PM | #26 | |
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09/19/2014, 03:04 PM | #27 | |
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People usually control the spread of LEDs with lenses. |
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09/19/2014, 03:26 PM | #28 | |
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Edit: yup, the ghl mitras Special coated high-performance LED-reflectors carry the light also into the depth, no useless divergence losses of the light to the sides. http://ghlna.com/mitras-lx-6200-pendant/ |
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09/19/2014, 03:32 PM | #29 |
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I should rephrase: there is no light to be reflected with LEDs because 100% of the light emits from one side of the chip. It'd be like putting a mirror behind a flashlight. Unless the reflectors are beside or in front of the emitter, they're useless. If they are beside, they do the same thing as lenses. That is, they focus the light.
Now what reflectors CAN do is reflect the light that gets reflected from the top of the water back into the tank, making the LED a bit more efficient. This benefit, though, would be so marginal that it may not be readily visible. (Or it may, I've never tried it and I don't feel like doing math at the moment). |
09/19/2014, 03:34 PM | #30 | |
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09/19/2014, 03:36 PM | #31 |
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So the mitras are using reflectors instead of lenses. It accomplishes the same thing.
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09/19/2014, 04:18 PM | #32 | |
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In later upgrades I added 3W LEDs (Rebels) with 60 degree optics in between the 10W LEDs to penetrate to the bottom. I have never used T5's, but I suspect that the tendency to add T5's to LEDs accomplishes what my 10W LEDs without lenses do (for me). Too early to say if it is the way to go (for me), but so far I am pleased with the way it has worked out. Dennis
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09/19/2014, 04:22 PM | #33 |
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I've noticed a lot of people, when building an LED array, tend to choose optics based on the coverage on the bottom of the tank (if they do the trigonometry at all).
IMO, this is the wrong method. You end up with spotlighting, "disco," and uneven vertical coverage. A properly designed array will feature coverage based on the surface of the water so that it will be relatively even as it penetrates the tank. |
09/19/2014, 05:51 PM | #34 | |
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09/19/2014, 08:20 PM | #35 |
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Would having the 120 degree lenses work better then 90 degree lenses even in small tanks like mine? Even though I have 3 pucks in a 30 inch tank, I still feel like it's not full coverage for my sps. The bottoms of the coral "sticks" don't seem to get any light whatsoever. Soft, LPS and Zoas I have no worries about with the 90 degree lenses.
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09/19/2014, 10:07 PM | #36 |
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Depends. With a wider distribution, the lights won't penetrate as deep. How high above the water is your fixture?
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09/20/2014, 02:12 AM | #37 |
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I think it is like most things. The more control the user has the higher chance of experimentation which comes with failure
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09/20/2014, 04:03 AM | #38 | |
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If you have the ability to set a good spectrum profile and ramp the LEDs up and down without changing the spectrum through out the day it's going to make a big difference. I'm not aware of what the software is capable of now on new units but if you can change intensity without changing spectrum it's going to cause a lot less problems and lead to more success. Of course this is only one variable.............as mentioned coverage,reducing hot spots, spectrum capabilities of the actual unit, and diode configurations all come into play.
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09/20/2014, 06:45 AM | #39 |
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There is no reason to ramp the spectrums up and down during the day. Tube and MH work just fine with a set spectrum and on/off approach.
LED systems get way over thought.
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Mark Beware the light at the end of the tunnel. Sometimes it's a train. Current Tank Info: 120, LED, Bare Bottom, SPS/LPS |
09/20/2014, 06:57 AM | #40 | |
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Many people start their actinics prior to their daylights, which produces a stepped transition from dark to light. Ramping just furthers that concept. I've often seen fish "freak out" when lighting goes from full off to full on. It's unnatural. The allure of a reef tank is having a bit of nature in our house, so why not replicate it to the best of our ability? |
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09/20/2014, 07:08 AM | #41 |
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I agree with Wazzel. In the old days (not that long ago) I used MH and Power Compacts with walmart $6 on/off timers and all my SPS/LPS thrived and grew. Now that I switched to LEDs, I see no difference in growth or health using sunrise/sunset ramps.
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09/20/2014, 07:11 AM | #42 |
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Ramping isn't done to improve coral growth or color.
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09/20/2014, 07:22 AM | #43 |
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09/20/2014, 07:22 AM | #44 | |
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Last edited by Mark426; 09/20/2014 at 07:27 AM. |
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09/20/2014, 07:29 AM | #45 |
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09/20/2014, 11:36 AM | #46 |
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09/20/2014, 11:38 AM | #47 | |
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09/20/2014, 11:49 AM | #48 | |
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Simon Got back into the hobby ..... planned to keep it simple ..... yeah, right ..... clearly I need a new plan! Pet peeve: anemones host clowns; clowns do not host anemones! Current Tank Info: 450 Reef; 120 refugium; 60 Frag Tank, 30 Introduction tank; multiple QTs |
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09/22/2014, 06:59 AM | #49 | |
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Mark Beware the light at the end of the tunnel. Sometimes it's a train. Current Tank Info: 120, LED, Bare Bottom, SPS/LPS |
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09/22/2014, 08:35 AM | #50 | |
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I've seen plenty of posts where someone says that their tank is doing great under LED and then they post a pic. Of course I've seen the opposite too, but the point is "doing great" doesn't mean anything.
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