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Unread 10/22/2014, 01:51 PM   #26
Fade2White12
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Originally Posted by Captainsreef View Post
Use levamisole is the answer. We can back track all we want about quarantine tanks and how you should have set one up but that doesn't help the current situation. In the future please use a quarantine tank and do things properly. In your case though levamasole will work and will kill the ich quickly. You will not have problems in the future and you should be feeding a food with immune system boosters etc, something like what we make. The reason most hobbyists don't know about levamisole is because it's a closely guarded secret amongst certain professionals like myself. I have a PhD in ichthyology and fisheries management and have been a professional for over 2 decades. I don't have to guard secrets anymore because I have moved to a successful online aquarium shop and manufacturer of a new aquarium food. My articles get praised by PhDs in the field and I am not trying to sound too big for my britches or brag but instead to let you know where the advice is coming from. Levamisole will work if you do it right and give it a shot. It will also not cause any secondary Infections. It works in freshwater planted aquariums where copper based meds shouldn't be used as well. Cheers!


Levamisole is an anthelmintic so it would likely be effective at treating a parasitic worm like flukes, but cryptocaryon is a protozoan, so unlikely to work.

Now, considering your experience and expertise in the field, I won't say definitively that it is ineffective. But I'd need a bit more proof and research before being willing to try it within my DT...


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Unread 10/22/2014, 02:01 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by snorvich View Post
For levamisole, read this.
Very good thread


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Unread 10/22/2014, 02:04 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Fade2White12 View Post
Levamisole is an anthelmintic so it would likely be effective at treating a parasitic worm like flukes, but cryptocaryon is a protozoan, so unlikely to work.

Now, considering your experience and expertise in the field, I won't say definitively that it is ineffective. But I'd need a bit more proof and research before being willing to try it within my DT...
Understood and yeah it works. I usually add 3 grams per 200 gallons for 5 hours, then I do a water change wait 72 hours and then add 1/3 of what I added before and turn the skimmer off for 1 day. The another water change. Wait a week and then do the same.


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Unread 10/22/2014, 10:20 PM   #29
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So Steve, I have read much of the threads linked about Levamisole and it appears to work. But with a low threshold of an overdose. Do you have an opinion on efficacy for crypto awa aefw?


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Unread 10/22/2014, 10:39 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by shesacharmer View Post
Here's what I did. Bought two totes at Wally World. Filled with ASW, pvc pieces, heaters, thermometers, and disposable airstones. Also found a free QT tank at the dump and added a HOB filter with floss.

After 12 days of TTM the fish went into QT. No meds. 72 days fallow on the DT. Finally the fish returned to DT Ich free.

Not a painless process but it works.

What stores do for QT are irrelevant. You have to do your own QT. I do TTM for any new fish and then at least an additional month in QT to observe for other issues.
There's really a Wally World?


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Unread 10/23/2014, 05:21 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelA7 View Post
So Steve, I have read much of the threads linked about Levamisole and it appears to work. But with a low threshold of an overdose. Do you have an opinion on efficacy for crypto awa aefw?
For cryptocaryon irritans tank transfer is by far my preferred prophylactic and treatment option.


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Unread 10/23/2014, 12:06 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Vapour1ze View Post
So what do you suggest?
If ich has already broken out in a reef DT, especially a big one with big or many fish, the first thing to do is to grow nitrification bacteria enough to support all fish. This means, in a separate container, starting a robust cycle for enough medium intended for QT.

There is little chance of eradicating ich without the means to support the fish for 12 weeks.

A cycle takes 3-5 weeks, during this time one has choices. I think best during these 3-5 weeks is to delay committment to eradicate ich. The objective during these 3-5 weeks are to prevent death from ich and poor conditions such as exposure to ammonia and lack of nutrition. Do not aim for eradication during this time.


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Unread 10/24/2014, 09:42 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Bilk View Post
There's really a Wally World?
OMG! The sights, the sounds! You've NEVER BEEN?!!! You are so totally missing out Dude!


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Unread 10/24/2014, 09:45 AM   #34
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Really confused, so the day I created this, he had what looked like Ich... White specs, but it was the day I removed my filter sock and a lot of microbubbles were introduced... Sure didn't look like microbubbles but I'm not sure. He was swimming great, eating great, and not scratching... Yesterday, I got home. Checked him out, no spots, no specks, amazing color still, eating and swimming like a champ... Clowns are fine too (always have been)

False alarm?


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Unread 10/24/2014, 10:03 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Vapour1ze View Post
Really confused, so the day I created this, he had what looked like Ich... White specs, but it was the day I removed my filter sock and a lot of microbubbles were introduced... Sure didn't look like microbubbles but I'm not sure. He was swimming great, eating great, and not scratching... Yesterday, I got home. Checked him out, no spots, no specks, amazing color still, eating and swimming like a champ... Clowns are fine too (always have been)

False alarm?
It could be, as specks of sand/debris and bubbles get on our fish's slime coats pretty frequently and can cause some confusion.

I just suggest you monitor them very closely over the next few weeks, just in case.


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Unread 10/24/2014, 10:06 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Fade2White12 View Post
It could be, as specks of sand/debris and bubbles get on our fish's slime coats pretty frequently and can cause some confusion.

I just suggest you monitor them very closely over the next few weeks, just in case.
Of course that is my plan!

It was just very weird to me, I've had him for two weeks, no spots, no irritation, even during initial introduction when he was very stressed and pale the first few hours during introduction. Nothing scared me too much, he grazes all day and knows the tank very well now. No param swings at all, and then the one day I noticed the spots... I thought, you have to be kidding me! All in all, over the next few weeks if I don't see anything scary. I will count my blessings and take the lesson learned here to quarantine all future fish to my system!!!


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Unread 10/24/2014, 10:12 AM   #37
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i've had moments of panic seeing spots on my fish and it just turned out to be specks of sand. hopefully, you dodged a bullet this time. i think it's wise to simply observe and if you see him flashing (scratching) on the rocks or sand bed, you may have to take some action.

good luck! i love my kole tang, he is SO busy all the time!!


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of all the things i've lost, i miss my gary the most.

Never hold your farts in. They travel up your spine into your brain, and that is where crappy ideas come from.

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Unread 10/24/2014, 10:15 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Nina51 View Post
i've had moments of panic seeing spots on my fish and it just turned out to be specks of sand. hopefully, you dodged a bullet this time. i think it's wise to simply observe and if you see him flashing (scratching) on the rocks or sand bed, you may have to take some action.

good luck! i love my kole tang, he is SO busy all the time!!
I agree entirely, my girlfriend doesn't like him now because she thinks he brought in ich to the tank and will kill off the clowns ( that she loves ) lol..... Anyway, I say I love this guy! He is busy busy busy, grazing all day. I love watching him! Butttttt he poops in the anemone at least 100 times a day? lol, it's like his litter box... No where else, he will swim to the anemone go over it and drop a deuce right on the anemone.. (usually all sand) but I'm like really? HA!


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Unread 10/24/2014, 11:26 AM   #39
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that's hilarious! mine poops everywhere. however, i think because of how my power heads are aimed, a lot of the poop collects in one corner. i'm pretty sure my big brittle star dines on it every night because the next morning, ~~poof~~, it's gone! LOL


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of all the things i've lost, i miss my gary the most.

Never hold your farts in. They travel up your spine into your brain, and that is where crappy ideas come from.

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Unread 10/24/2014, 11:35 AM   #40
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Lol! Most excellent!


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Unread 10/24/2014, 11:58 AM   #41
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i love these threads where they say to "move your fish to a QT tank".... like you snap your fingers and the fish jumps out of the display and into the QT in under a minute

many don't realize CATCHING the #$%^ing fish is like an 8hr anxiety attack. Yeah, you pull all your coral and LR to catch the fish, but you'll be spending 3 days arranging LR that keeps falling over.
And in the process of re-aquascaping you WILL damage some of your corals.

if someone has a routine where they can yank a single fish out of a reef tank with 200lbs of LR and over 100+ pieces of coral..... i'd like to read the step-by-step guide


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Unread 10/24/2014, 11:59 AM   #42
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i love these threads where they say to move your fish to a QT tank.... many don't realize CATCHING the #$%^ing fish is like an 8hr anxiety attack. Yeah, you pull all your coral and LR to catch the fish, but you'll be spenign 3 days arranging LR that keeps falling over. And in the process of re-aquascaping you will WILL damage some of your corals.

if someone has a routine where they can yank a single fish out of a reef tank with 200lbs of LR and over 100+ pieces of coral..... i'd like to read the step-by-step guide
The bottle trick, or feed... Do they come up to your hand? Have someone feed while you have net ready! Scoop fast!


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Unread 10/24/2014, 12:11 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by skimjim View Post
i love these threads where they say to "move your fish to a QT tank".... like you snap your fingers and the fish jumps out of the display and into the QT in under a minute

many don't realize CATCHING the #$%^ing fish is like an 8hr anxiety attack. Yeah, you pull all your coral and LR to catch the fish, but you'll be spending 3 days arranging LR that keeps falling over.
And in the process of re-aquascaping you WILL damage some of your corals.

if someone has a routine where they can yank a single fish out of a reef tank with 200lbs of LR and over 100+ pieces of coral..... i'd like to read the step-by-step guide
We absolutely understand the difficulty in catching fish in our tanks. But what's the alternative? Either you continue to expose your current fish to the same painful parasites over and over for the rest of their days, as well as any future fish you introduce to the tank - OR - you spend one "8hr anxiety attack" for the betterment of your livestock for the future.

No one said it was easy. It's just the reality.


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Unread 10/24/2014, 02:18 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skimjim View Post
i love these threads where they say to "move your fish to a QT tank".... like you snap your fingers and the fish jumps out of the display and into the QT in under a minute

many don't realize CATCHING the #$%^ing fish is like an 8hr anxiety attack. Yeah, you pull all your coral and LR to catch the fish, but you'll be spending 3 days arranging LR that keeps falling over.
And in the process of re-aquascaping you WILL damage some of your corals.

if someone has a routine where they can yank a single fish out of a reef tank with 200lbs of LR and over 100+ pieces of coral..... i'd like to read the step-by-step guide
QT in the beginning then one does not have to worry about catching fish from the DT.


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Unread 10/24/2014, 02:22 PM   #45
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true ^


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