UPS instead of a generator

[Aszpara]

Originally Posted by crankbait09

well, i do have a marine battery that i could use in the winter months just in case.........i would just have ot make sure its always charged.......

so, about how much time do you have from power going out to the time you hook the inverter up, before water floods the house from the back flow of the drain line??

Unfortunately I can't say. I have a small tank so I don't have a sump or overflow box or anything like that. If you keep the battery and inverter right by your tank, it shouldn't take more than a few minutes to switch everything over. Hopefully that's enough time.

As far as charging your battery, you could buy a battery tender to keep it charged. You just keep the battery hooked up to that all the time and the tender will charge the battery when it needs charging but it won't over charge the battery. You can find one fairly cheap for about $25. Just keep the battery hooked up to that until you need it and it will be fully charged and ready to go.

[jd371]

Originally Posted by crankbait09

i saw this one......why are inverters so much cheaper? is it due to the inconvenience of needing a battery?
biggest downfall is if you ar enot home to hook this up, it doesnt help you any.

That's why I have my RW 8's and heater hooked up to a UPS. I don't know how long they would run on the battery, but I'm sure it would be long enough to buy me some time to switch over to the generator when I got home.

[billdogg]

Originally Posted by crankbait09

so, about how much time do you have from power going out to the time you hook the inverter up, before water floods the house from the back flow of the drain line??

If your sump overflows when the power shuts off, it is either too small or plumbed incorrectly, or both. Figure out why it overflows, fix that problem, and don't worry about it so much. Your tank can easily go for a few hours with no power whatsoever. Although that is not ideal, it's really not that big of a deal unless your tank is already over maximum capacity fish and filtration. The battery powered air pumps are a good idea (if you keep batteries for them), but I really think that unless your power goes out frequently, and for long periods of time, you are worrying about nothing.

jm.02

That being said, I will be installing a whole-house generator but only because my wife and i really like our heating, AC, TV, computers, refridgertor, etc. Will it be better for the aquariums too? Sure. But in the 14 years we've lived here, the longest the power has been out is about 4 hours.

(and thanks for the tip about medical necessity - hadn't thought of that!)

[crankbait09]

i know there is a link around here somewhere to a thread that talks about how much to fill the sump to.....can anyone post that? i have mine marked but i would like to double check the level before I start it up

[skeeter_ca]

I would not suggest using a lead-acid battery indoors. When they discharge they can release Hydrogen-sulfide gas which is poisonous and explosive. Most likely during a normal slow discharge on a good battery it may not emit enough gas to cause a problem but if you are pulling to many amps too quickly or the battery is going bad it can vent a lot of gas and cause a lot of problems. Just wanted to warn you before you set it up. I would suggest putting the inverter and battery outside and using a long heavy duty extension cord.

[skeeter_ca]

You fill the sump up to a level that if the power is shut down and everything is off, the water that drains back down to the sump does not overflow it. Even if you have check valves you should account for what if they don't hold when the power does go out.

[crankbait09]

Originally Posted by skeeter_ca

you fill the sump up to a level that if the power is shut down and everything is off, the water that drains back down to the sump does not overflow it. Even if you have check valves you should account for what if they don't hold when the power does go out.

right, but how do i determine where that is?

[skeeter_ca]

Is this an initial fill or is it already running?

[crankbait09]

this is an initial fill. never done before

[billdogg]

Here's how I figuered it out.

get the tank and sump running. drain a bit of water from the sump until the return pump starts to suck air. Add just enough water back to get the air bubbles to stop going to the DT. Mark a line there (I used testers model paint) that is your minimum fill line.

Now turn the return pump off and allow the DT to drain down into the sump. When it has stopped, fill the sump up to about 1" from the top. Start the return pump. When the sump is stabilized, mark another line. That is your Maximum fill line.

Yoiur normal sump depth will be someplace between the two, and is totally dependant on your baffle height in the return section. Should I ever get home tonight, I'll post a picture for you to show you the lines so you can get an idea of what I mean


hth

[Sk8r]

You can use a UPS if your situation can be helped by running an airpump for 5 minutes every hour. Some tanks can get by with this. Some can't. And it will only carry you a relatively short period of time, even with that very small draw on its stored power. If you are facing a multi-day blackout, not so much help.

[ca1ore]

I'd tend to view the UPS/battery backup as complementary to a generator - unless you have a whole house automated system. I travel a lot, and we have frequent, sometimes protracted outages. I probably ought to invest in an automated system except where I live we don't have access to propane to the system becomes much more expensive. So, for me, the battery backup buys me sme time to fire up the portable generator.

[Baldguy]

Originally Posted by crankbait09

right, but how do i determine where that is?

If your return outlet is at the surface of the display you won't get more than an inch or so of water drain back to the sump. I get a little under an inch when I cut power. No need for a check valve.

[crankbait09]

Originally Posted by Baldguy

If your return outlet is at the surface of the display you won't get more than an inch or so of water drain back to the sump. I get a little under an inch when I cut power. No need for a check valve.

HUH? return outlet?

[MFerrell]

Return outlet=the tube that flows into the sump to drain water out of the display tank to be circulated through the sump.

[skeeter_ca]

Originally Posted by MFerrell

Return outlet=the tube that flows into the sump to drain water out of the display tank to be circulated through the sump.

That would be called the Drain. The return is the side that pumps or "returns" the water back to the aquarium. The Drain, drains it into the sump.

[billdogg]

Originally Posted by MFerrell

Return outlet=the tube that flows into the sump to drain water out of the display tank to be circulated through the sump.

I think you have that just a bit backwards. As a general rule, the return goes from the (you guessed it) return pump in the sump up to the display tank. Yes, it should be barely under the surface and/or have a siphon break hole drilled in it to prevent excess drain-back in to the sump. Your Drain plumbing goes from the overflow box down to the sump and (you guessed it again) drains the water from the DT to the sump so that the return pump can then pump it back up.

[skeeter_ca]

When the pump is shut off water will come out of both the drain and the return into the sump. The higher the siphon break is on the return the less water will back siphon into the sump.

[skeeter_ca]

Wow, talk about thread drift.............

[MFerrell]

Okay all I can say is I am terrible at terminology. Return pump and return outlet, now I got it.

[crankbait09]

since we jumped ship about the generator vs inverter vs ups.........anymore ideas/suggestions on the best one to use for less out of pocket moolah?

[Leviathan_XE]

No one has any thoughts about the backup/jump starter that I posted?

[skeeter_ca]

That jump starter wouldn't do anywhere near as good as a deep cycle battery. You could go out and buy a 12volt dry-acid battery the same size as it uses for about 1/4 the price.

Sorry......

[skeeter_ca]

Oops...........

[dabob79]

I've got an APC Smart UPS 1500. My Vortec, RW-8, and Radion plug directly into the UPS. The Apex is plugged into the UPS and everything else is plugged into the Apex. I also have the Apex 12V DC power supply plugged straight into the wall. When power is lost, the Apex senses it and shuts down the T5s, one of the heaters, and the return pump, and also sends an alert to my phone. I am then able to log on to Ecosmart Live and shut down the Radion and Vortec. The UPS lasts about 4 hours running just one heater and the RW-8. Hope that helps!