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10/19/2015, 02:12 PM | #26 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,793
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Quote:
it was a generalization to begin with.. The more blue (and more red for that matter) the less accurate the PAR meter and probably FC/LUX ect meter. TO BACKTRACK on a few of my earlier statements: 1)I certainly shouldn't (or more correctly didn't plan on) suggesting using a LUX meter in place of any PAR meter due to the lack of response in this blue centric world.. though this is what I kind of did.. Blame it on lack of coffee.. 2)The point was that initially to "estimate" PAR vs LUX to show that the o/p's lux measurements was NOT showing a HUGELY bright light in comparison to PAR ect.. 3) A TRUE Lux meter (which you can check by putting one under an actinic LED array (blue only) will have very poor response and of course PAR cannot be estimated. Using an apogee you would have an error as well.. how huge depends on wavelength Last edited by oreo57; 10/19/2015 at 02:26 PM. |
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10/19/2015, 03:19 PM | #27 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Bradenton FL
Posts: 588
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Quote:
I am not sure if all this other stuff is helping me solve my problem but it is interesting Thank you all for the info!. Last edited by lookout888; 10/19/2015 at 03:26 PM. |
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10/20/2015, 05:33 AM | #28 |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Zuehl, Texas
Posts: 4,460
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One thing I learned with a foot candle meter is your eyes cannot tell drastic changes. I have noticed when you get over 1,000 foot candles, my eyes cannot tell the difference between two lamps side by side even if there is a +25% difference. I learned this the hard way when I first got into Metal Halides and my DE lamps dropped 50% in 8 months and I lost half of my SPS. One comparison that I have noticed is that if PAR drops off 10%, so will the foot candles. A foot candle or Lux meter is needed to tell us when our lamps/leds drop so we can either replace or turn up.
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