Marinepure bio blocks - Page 2

niladride · 08/30/2016, 07:56 AM

I have been using the 8 8 4 block in my sump, I placed it in the return chamber hoping that the flow is lowest in that part. But I am getting lots of hair algae, almost a jungle of algae in my tank, I think my NO3 PO4 are considerably high. As @firemountain suggested, I will try to add the block in the overflow chamber of the sump (water falls in this part from the display tank) and see if this can change the equation considerably.

niladride · 08/30/2016, 07:57 AM

By the way, I am also using carbon, purigen and phosguard along with as ATS. I think the water is the culprit here as I am using tap water only.

kozmic · 08/30/2016, 11:48 AM

I am a fan of marine pure... have had the 8x8x4 block in my sump for about nine months now. I was battling high NO3 and discovered my bio balls to be a nitrate factory, so I removed them and placed the one brick in my non-lit sump in an area with low flow. I went from "always red" nitrates to almost undetectable within a couple months.

Like was mentioned before, I look at the marine pure block as just a super efficient LR replacement... I am sure that you might/could find some LR that is almost as good as the marine pure blocks, but in the sump, it doesn't need to look like LR.

(And I disagree with whoever said that it might become a nitrate factory... only way I see that happening, is maybe if someone were to use the marine pure balls without a filter sock, and get a bunch of detritus build up stuck between them and never rinse them...don't really see that being an issue with the blocks though)

SFish · 08/30/2016, 02:01 PM

There's a video with a guy growing pods in an 8x8x4 block as well. Thought that was cool.

xCry0x · 08/30/2016, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kozmic

Like was mentioned before, I look at the marine pure block as just a super efficient LR replacement... I am sure that you might/could find some LR that is almost as good as the marine pure blocks, but in the sump, it doesn't need to look like LR.

That is all it comes down to. People used bio balls or LR rubble before, this stuff is just a modern take on what people were trying to do previously. Much more efficient due to the super porous nature of the media and also has the possibility of nitrate removal which is a plus.

I just set up my tank and wish I had known about it a few weeks ago, would have put a few sheets under my sand bed =).

Ou8me2 · 08/30/2016, 04:50 PM

Couple of Videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtbsCPlBnQg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xiskT7hXCaM

rocsec1 · 08/30/2016, 05:56 PM

I use them and think they do a good job. There are many different products and opinions on those products.

djbon · 08/30/2016, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kozmic

I am a fan of marine pure... have had the 8x8x4 block in my sump for about nine months now. I was battling high NO3 and discovered my bio balls to be a nitrate factory, so I removed them and placed the one brick in my non-lit sump in an area with low flow. I went from "always red" nitrates to almost undetectable within a couple months.

Like was mentioned before, I look at the marine pure block as just a super efficient LR replacement... I am sure that you might/could find some LR that is almost as good as the marine pure blocks, but in the sump, it doesn't need to look like LR.

(And I disagree with whoever said that it might become a nitrate factory... only way I see that happening, is maybe if someone were to use the marine pure balls without a filter sock, and get a bunch of detritus build up stuck between them and never rinse them...don't really see that being an issue with the blocks though)

As i mentioned before, the keys to successful denitrification will be low flow and if possible oxygen free water and absent of light.

talamasca · 08/30/2016, 06:01 PM

Aren't these things designed to be live rock? Is there really something I could bypass or gain by going with this route as opposed to live rock? (all other things being equal) A new toy perhaps? KISS.

Btw I apologize for not reading through the entire thread, but don't try and complicate something that is so easy IME. Don't forget, under the right conditions the WALLS of the tank/bucket/wine barrel etc can support the inhabitants sometimes... This bacteria doesn't discriminate.

xCry0x · 08/30/2016, 06:26 PM

You are increasing the capacity of your tank to have bacteria.

A 1 inch cube of this stuff has significantly more surface area, thus more bacteria capacity, than a 1 inch cube of traditional fiji (etc) rock.

So, with space for rock being the constraint, this helps increase capacity in a tank.

SFish · 08/31/2016, 01:01 AM

You gain space by using this vs rock in the sump. To me that is the main advantage. Not all of us have a big sump or room for a container to put rock in.

MiddletoM · 08/31/2016, 04:13 AM

Has anyone experienced this with their marinepure block...

in the past two weeks (after being in the sump for 6 months) my block is producing a lot of bubbles...

[IMG]http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w417/Tom0688/WP_20160830_027_zpsoms3bsti.jpg[IMG]

Im hoping this is nitrogen from denitrification.

SFish · 08/31/2016, 06:02 AM

Has to be air. Must have been trapped.

djbon · 08/31/2016, 06:10 AM

Could be nitrogen gas as denitrification byproduct. I don't use marine block but my denitrator does produce nitrogen gases.

kozmic · 08/31/2016, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MiddletoM

Has anyone experienced this with their marinepure block...

Im hoping this is nitrogen from denitrification.

After nine months in my sump, I have never seen my block do that...you seem to also have some film algae growing on the block? I don't have any of that on my block either...

Just took this pic of the surface of my block.

alfred14 · 08/31/2016, 08:31 PM

I was going to reference the brs YouTube series video about this product. It's super porous, and has a very high surface area. Meaning it's ideal for biological filtration but the key would be to find an area with low flow so that it can be anaerobic. A second benefit to this is that it can early be placed in a sumo and pulled out from time to time to rinse of with old tank water. It's so porous I believe you can take a water hose and run the water straight through it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

alfred14 · 08/31/2016, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ou8me2

Couple of Videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtbsCPlBnQg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xiskT7hXCaM

First video at 5:15 shows how much flow can go through it, to me this means it's that much more important to have it in a low flow area but I am new so please take everything I say with a grain of salt.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

djbon · 08/31/2016, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alfred14

First video at 5:15 shows how much flow can go through it, to me this means it's that much more important to have it in a low flow area but I am new so please take everything I say with a grain of salt.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Low flow, low oxygen. I have another criteria to speed up the process even further. Keep it in the darkest area of your sump, you will see improvement, and NO ALGAE will ever grow that will covers the microscopic holes in it.

MiddletoM · 09/01/2016, 02:08 AM

hmm could be the algae film on my block causing the air bubbles, unfortunately there is no way to tell right if its from denitrification because I have biopellets and chaeto in place so nitrate reduction could be because of them.

I could somehow collect the gas and see how it reacts to a flame assuming its either oxygen or nitrogen the flame will burn brighter or be put out.

kozmic · 09/01/2016, 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MiddletoM

I could somehow collect the gas and see how it reacts to a flame assuming its either oxygen or nitrogen the flame will burn brighter or be put out.

Would be a fun experiment for sure...

Also, if you have a light on your sump, you might try blocking the light from hitting the marine pure block and see if the algae (and maybe the bubbles) clear up after a few weeks.

A sea K · 09/01/2016, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xCry0x

Much more efficient due to the super porous nature of the media and also has the possibility of nitrate removal which is a plus.

I just set up my tank and wish I had known about it a few weeks ago, would have put a few sheets under my sand bed =).

Quote:

Originally Posted by djbon

As i mentioned before, the keys to successful denitrification will be low flow and if possible oxygen free water and absent of light.

So then, if my primary goal for the Marine pure block is denitrification then the best way to use it would be lay it in the bottom of my sumps refugium area and cover it with sand? It seems to meet all the criteria, low flow, oxygen free and no light.

djbon · 09/01/2016, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A sea K

So then, if my primary goal for the Marine pure block is denitrification then the best way to use it would be lay it in the bottom of my sumps refugium area and cover it with sand? It seems to meet all the criteria, low flow, oxygen free and no light.

Yes, but covering with sand is more or less like having DSB. In a long run the deepest area might trap toxic gasses, the same reason why reefers don't mess up with DSB during maintenance.

A sea K · 09/01/2016, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djbon

Yes, but covering with sand is more or less like having DSB. In a long run the deepest area might trap toxic gasses, the same reason why reefers don't mess up with DSB during maintenance.

What then would be the ideal way to implement the media with the idea of denitrification as the primary goal?

djbon · 09/01/2016, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A sea K

What then would be the ideal way to implement the media with the idea of denitrification as the primary goal?

I don't owned one so i can't answer your question based on experience. I used different approach but same basic methodology, so roughly i know how it works. Block in a sump approach will functions as intended, but getting a low dissolved oxigen water to pass through the media is difficult, infact having skimmer maximises oxygen level in the sump. Besides that, most of us have macro algae in the sump with growing light in it. Having a "live" block with algae growing light will promote algae on it when conditions are met, covering the pores and reduces the effectiveness over time. There is no way having a low flow in a sump, unless you have a separate baffle where only a fraction of water flows thru it.

djbon · 09/01/2016, 06:33 PM

My denitrator and the effluent output flow...

http://vid1233.photobucket.com/album...psu4n8e69w.mp4

08/30/2016, 06:01 PM	#34
talamasca Moved On Join Date: Aug 2016 Posts: 22	Aren't these things designed to be live rock? Is there really something I could bypass or gain by going with this route as opposed to live rock? (all other things being equal) A new toy perhaps? KISS. Btw I apologize for not reading through the entire thread, but don't try and complicate something that is so easy IME. Don't forget, under the right conditions the WALLS of the tank/bucket/wine barrel etc can support the inhabitants sometimes... This bacteria doesn't discriminate. Last edited by talamasca; 08/30/2016 at 06:06 PM.

08/31/2016, 06:10 AM	#39
djbon Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, MY Posts: 813	Could be nitrogen gas as denitrification byproduct. I don't use marine block but my denitrator does produce nitrogen gases. __________________ 75 gallon DT, 5 gallon sump, DIY LED bar with moonlight, DIY Arduino controller Current Tank Info: 75 gallon/Arduino Controller

08/30/2016, 07:56 AM	#26
niladride Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Kolkata, India Posts: 567	I have been using the 8 8 4 block in my sump, I placed it in the return chamber hoping that the flow is lowest in that part. But I am getting lots of hair algae, almost a jungle of algae in my tank, I think my NO3 PO4 are considerably high. As @firemountain suggested, I will try to add the block in the overflow chamber of the sump (water falls in this part from the display tank) and see if this can change the equation considerably.

08/30/2016, 07:57 AM	#27
niladride Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Kolkata, India Posts: 567	By the way, I am also using carbon, purigen and phosguard along with as ATS. I think the water is the culprit here as I am using tap water only.

08/30/2016, 11:48 AM	#28
kozmic Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Cypress, TX Posts: 146	I am a fan of marine pure... have had the 8x8x4 block in my sump for about nine months now. I was battling high NO3 and discovered my bio balls to be a nitrate factory, so I removed them and placed the one brick in my non-lit sump in an area with low flow. I went from "always red" nitrates to almost undetectable within a couple months. Like was mentioned before, I look at the marine pure block as just a super efficient LR replacement... I am sure that you might/could find some LR that is almost as good as the marine pure blocks, but in the sump, it doesn't need to look like LR. (And I disagree with whoever said that it might become a nitrate factory... only way I see that happening, is maybe if someone were to use the marine pure balls without a filter sock, and get a bunch of detritus build up stuck between them and never rinse them...don't really see that being an issue with the blocks though)

08/30/2016, 02:01 PM	#29
SFish Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 2,062	There's a video with a guy growing pods in an 8x8x4 block as well. Thought that was cool.

08/30/2016, 04:50 PM	#31
Ou8me2 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Posts: 743	Couple of Videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtbsCPlBnQg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xiskT7hXCaM

08/30/2016, 05:56 PM	#32
rocsec1 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Medina oh Posts: 1,782	I use them and think they do a good job. There are many different products and opinions on those products.

08/30/2016, 06:26 PM	#35
xCry0x Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Martinez, CA Posts: 1,116	You are increasing the capacity of your tank to have bacteria. A 1 inch cube of this stuff has significantly more surface area, thus more bacteria capacity, than a 1 inch cube of traditional fiji (etc) rock. So, with space for rock being the constraint, this helps increase capacity in a tank.

08/31/2016, 01:01 AM	#36
SFish Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 2,062	You gain space by using this vs rock in the sump. To me that is the main advantage. Not all of us have a big sump or room for a container to put rock in.

08/31/2016, 04:13 AM	#37
MiddletoM Registered Member Join Date: May 2015 Posts: 147	Has anyone experienced this with their marinepure block... in the past two weeks (after being in the sump for 6 months) my block is producing a lot of bubbles... [IMG]http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w417/Tom0688/WP_20160830_027_zpsoms3bsti.jpg[IMG] Im hoping this is nitrogen from denitrification.

08/31/2016, 06:02 AM	#38
SFish Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 2,062	Has to be air. Must have been trapped.

08/31/2016, 08:31 PM	#41
alfred14 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Posts: 37	I was going to reference the brs YouTube series video about this product. It's super porous, and has a very high surface area. Meaning it's ideal for biological filtration but the key would be to find an area with low flow so that it can be anaerobic. A second benefit to this is that it can early be placed in a sumo and pulled out from time to time to rinse of with old tank water. It's so porous I believe you can take a water hose and run the water straight through it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

09/01/2016, 02:08 AM	#44
MiddletoM Registered Member Join Date: May 2015 Posts: 147	hmm could be the algae film on my block causing the air bubbles, unfortunately there is no way to tell right if its from denitrification because I have biopellets and chaeto in place so nitrate reduction could be because of them. I could somehow collect the gas and see how it reacts to a flame assuming its either oxygen or nitrogen the flame will burn brighter or be put out.