50g Cadlights Build Thread

[d0ughb0y]

I started out using 1/2" as main, and it did not work out (flow too low). So I switched to using the 1" as main when I saw your post. Now your post got me thinking, maybe I did not do it right the first time. I'll play around with it again this weekend and see if I can make the 1/2" as main work.

congrats on the new baby.

[d0ughb0y]

I tested using 1/2" as main drain, and max flow you can get out of it is to drain right at the bulkhead, with nothing but a straight down pipe. I don't know the actual flow, but if I set my DCS4000 pump to max, it is not able to handle the flow, that is, the overflow box water level starts to rise.,

In my case, I am fine with the return pump at halfway setting, I think this is equivalent to about 60% setting, so about 630gph minus whatever head loss of the return. I think it should not be lower than 350 gph. If I use the head loss graph, flow would be about 400gph at 4 feet at 60% setting.

So I will change my configuration to use 1/2" as main drain, pipe is 4" below the 1" emergency drain pipe, and is just slightly below the overflow inner glass height (maybe 1/4" less). This handles perfectly my pump set halfway, and with both drains valve wide open. I can tune using the return pump dc controller.

Now with the 1" drain wide open, I know it can handle all the flow from the return if the 1/2" drain clogs.

The return flow rate for me is higher if I just use elbows at either side of the overflow box output instead of the loc lines. Meaning, for the same DC controller setting, I get more flow by not using the loc line. With this configuration, about 2.5 gallons of water goes back to the sump when return pump is powered down. If I increase the baffle height to 8" and run the return section water level at 3", then the return section alone can take the 2.5 gallons, keeping the skimmer side level at 8". This way, I won't need to turn off the skimmer when I turn off the return pump. The rest of the overflow box water is about 1.5 gallons and the sump can easily take that if I pull out the drain pipes for maintenance. I think this will be my final configuration.

[rtparty]

Originally Posted by d0ughb0y

I started out using 1/2" as main, and it did not work out (flow too low). So I switched to using the 1" as main when I saw your post. Now your post got me thinking, maybe I did not do it right the first time. I'll play around with it again this weekend and see if I can make the 1/2" as main work.

congrats on the new baby.

Thanks! We are super excited as it's our first!

Originally Posted by d0ughb0y

I tested using 1/2" as main drain, and max flow you can get out of it is to drain right at the bulkhead, with nothing but a straight down pipe. I don't know the actual flow, but if I set my DCS4000 pump to max, it is not able to handle the flow, that is, the overflow box water level starts to rise.,

In my case, I am fine with the return pump at halfway setting, I think this is equivalent to about 60% setting, so about 630gph minus whatever head loss of the return. I think it should not be lower than 350 gph. If I use the head loss graph, flow would be about 400gph at 4 feet at 60% setting.

So I will change my configuration to use 1/2" as main drain, pipe is 4" below the 1" emergency drain pipe, and is just slightly below the overflow inner glass height (maybe 1/4" less). This handles perfectly my pump set halfway, and with both drains valve wide open. I can tune using the return pump dc controller.

Now with the 1" drain wide open, I know it can handle all the flow from the return if the 1/2" drain clogs.

The return flow rate for me is higher if I just use elbows at either side of the overflow box output instead of the loc lines. Meaning, for the same DC controller setting, I get more flow by not using the loc line. With this configuration, about 2.5 gallons of water goes back to the sump when return pump is powered down. If I increase the baffle height to 8" and run the return section water level at 3", then the return section alone can take the 2.5 gallons, keeping the skimmer side level at 8". This way, I won't need to turn off the skimmer when I turn off the return pump. The rest of the overflow box water is about 1.5 gallons and the sump can easily take that if I pull out the drain pipes for maintenance. I think this will be my final configuration.

Thanks for testing. I am positive the ½" will handle my pump. If not, I can turn it down slightly on the pump itself. I may switch to a Current USA DC pump down the road so that will give me even more control.

My gate valve is seriously almost all the way closed on the 1". That really worries me so I'll order a ½" gate valve from BRS and add it in. It will be super easy since I used all the unions for something like this.

[rtparty]

1/2" gate valve has been ordered and I'll fix the plumbing when I get the tank home. In the meantime, it's time to get all the electronics wired up and figure out the fuge...

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[d0ughb0y]

I removed the glass baffles on my sump today. I used 20lbs fishing line and it was quite easy to detach the glass. Like slicing butter with hot knife.

Next I will get some cut glass to create a new sump partitions. If the glasses cost to much, I may just re-use the existing glasses. I am thinking of raising the skimmer level from 6" to 8", but not sure if that is the best option. If I can just leave it at 6", I'll leave it alone. I did not remove the 2 baffles to the return section.

[rtparty]

I got the light tree installed, some plumbing redone and the tank positioned where I want before a little guy took over the rest of the day and weekend.

Mom and baby are healthy and doing well. We should be released Monday night or Tuesday morning.

[rtparty]

Rock and sand are in the tank! I'm making up the last 15 gallons of RO and the whole system should be up and running tonight. Didn't grab any pics since it's super cloudy right now

[janci]

Originally Posted by rtparty

... before a little guy took over the rest of the day and weekend.
Mom and baby are healthy and doing well. We should be released Monday night or Tuesday morning.

Congratulations!
Busy times will come and tank built might get delayed.
But enjoy the family!

[rtparty]

Originally Posted by janci

Congratulations!
Busy times will come and tank built might get delayed.
But enjoy the family!

Thank you! He's been absolutely amazing so far. Lots of sleepless nights but worth it

[rtparty]

Well, life has been busy with the little one so the tank is just doing its thing right now.

The diatom stage finally kicked off and I'll be adding a clean up crew this week. Just a few snails to start.

I also changed up my T5s to 2 Blue Plus and 2 ATI Actinic bulbs. Mixed with the Radium, it is perfection.

I'm bad at pictures and need to be better. Once there is something worth filming, I'll snap some more pics.

[rtparty]

5 Astraea snails and 5 Cerith snails were added last night to start cleaning things up. They were all still going this morning although one astraea hasn't really moved so it may not make it. Thankfully my LFS sells them for $0.50 each.

On another note, I think it's time to sell the Reef Dynamics skimmer. It's a fantastic skimmer but takes up too much room in my small sump. I'd really like to get a space saving, DC pump skimmer. That way I can move the chaeto out of my return section and into the main compartment where it will receive better flow.

Next big purchase is an ATO setup. I'm really liking the AquaMedic Pro ATO. Unless I can find a deal on a Tunze, I'll go that route.

Hopefully I can grab some pictures this weekend since this thread is pointless without them!

[rtparty]

Here's a current FTS with just the T5s on. 2 Blue Plus and 2 Actinic. It turned out a little more green than in person IMO.

[d0ughb0y]

The mdf stand I got is beyond repair so I will have to build one and want to build one like yours. Is that all just 3/4 birch plywood with no 2x4 or 1x4s?

how was the square hole with rounded corners cut? drill 4 corner holes and cut the rest with jigsaw?

can you please take pictures of the inside top? I want to see how the sides and top are connected.

how were the edges of the plywood finished?

thanks.

[rtparty]

Originally Posted by d0ughb0y

The mdf stand I got is beyond repair so I will have to build one and want to build one like yours. Is that all just 3/4 birch plywood with no 2x4 or 1x4s?

how was the square hole with rounded corners cut? drill 4 corner holes and cut the rest with jigsaw?

can you please take pictures of the inside top? I want to see how the sides and top are connected.

how were the edges of the plywood finished?

thanks.

Correct. It is all 3/4" plywood with no 1x4s or 2x4s. It was dadoed (spelling?), glued and screwed together. The front support beam is 2 pieces of plywood glued be and screwed.

The top and back holes were just like you said. 4 corners cut with a hole saw, jigsaw and then sanded.l

The top piece sits "in"the sides. We cut down the 3/4" and then 1/2" into the sides. Really wish I had more pictures and could explain it better. My father-in-law did most of the work while I wasn't there. I was there to screw and glue it together though so I saw the "puzzle" all apart.

We used the liquid wood putty stuff to finish off all the edges and smooth them out. Then there is like 3 coats of primer, 3 coats of paint and 3 coats of polyurethane all sprayed on. I'll try to grab pics in the morning

[moondoggy4]

Do you have the Radium 150 20k bulb? they seem hard to find. I have Phoenix 14k I am not to fond of them. I have the same light as you.

[rtparty]

Originally Posted by moondoggy4

Do you have the Radium 150 20k bulb? they seem hard to find. I have Phoenix 14k I am not to fond of them. I have the same light as you.

Mine is the 250w SE Radium

[dante411x]

This looks quite a bit like my next tank build, subscribing! Looks great and congrats on the little one!

One thing I'll add, if you've already got the apex, adding a breakout box and a few float switches should give you security for tank overflowing. Also, if you have a breakout box, a couple float switches and a small pump, you can make your own apex controlled ATO instead of shelling out money for one.

[moondoggy4]

Wow you pick up a Spectra! I have the Infinity model.

Congrats on the new addition. Cute baby.

[d0ughb0y]

Originally Posted by rtparty

Correct. It is all 3/4" plywood with no 1x4s or 2x4s. It was dadoed (spelling?), glued and screwed together. The front support beam is 2 pieces of plywood glued be and screwed.

The top and back holes were just like you said. 4 corners cut with a hole saw, jigsaw and then sanded.l

The top piece sits "in"the sides. We cut down the 3/4" and then 1/2" into the sides. Really wish I had more pictures and could explain it better. My father-in-law did most of the work while I wasn't there. I was there to screw and glue it together though so I saw the "puzzle" all apart.

We used the liquid wood putty stuff to finish off all the edges and smooth them out. Then there is like 3 coats of primer, 3 coats of paint and 3 coats of polyurethane all sprayed on. I'll try to grab pics in the morning

Thanks.
I'm getting a better idea how to put this together.

By front support beam you mean the bar across the front top? So you doubled up the plywood ? How many inches wide is it? Is the piece across the bottom the same?

Is the top a single 3/4" plywood or did you double it?

So the side panel top is notched 1/2" in (I think 3/4" plywood is actually .7") and deep enough to make the top panel flush? Same with the back panel or is the top piece sitting completely on top of the back panel? From the picture, I can see the top front comes all the way out and sits on top of the top beam. Also, in the picture, I only see screws across the top and bottom of the side panel. How is the back panel attached?

I see in your pictures screws on the bottom edge of the side panel. Is this screwed to a bottom plywood that sits on the floor? And I don't see any screw that holds the platform for the sump. How is it mounted? It has to be able to hold the weight of the sump.
The bottom section is the part that I have no idea yet how to do.

You used the same liquid wood putty used to finish the edges to cover the counter sunk screw heads?

I figured one 4'x8' sheet of plywood is enough to complete the stand right?

Thanks

[rtparty]

Originally Posted by d0ughb0y

Thanks.
I'm getting a better idea how to put this together.

By front support beam you mean the bar across the front top?

So you doubled up the plywood ? How many inches wide is it? Is the piece across the bottom the same?

Is the top a single 3/4" plywood or did you double it?

So the side panel top is notched 1/2" in (I think 3/4" plywood is actually .7") and deep enough to make the top panel flush? Same with the back panel or is the top piece sitting completely on top of the back panel? From the picture, I can see the top front comes all the way out and sits on top of the top beam

I see in your pictures screws on the bottom edge of the side panel. Is this screwed to a bottom plywood that sits on the floor? And I don't see any screw that holds the platform for the sump. How is it mounted? It has to be able to hold the weight of the sump.
The bottom section is the part that I have no idea yet how to do.

You used the same liquid wood putty used to finish the edges to cover the counter sunk screw heads?

I figured one 4'x8' sheet of plywood is enough to complete the stand right?

Thanks

One sheet of plywood worked perfectly. Except the door was an additional piece since the original door warped on us.

Let me get some measurements on everything.

[rtparty]

Door 24x31
Sides 34x24
Back 34x22.5ish
Kick plate 5x22.5
Top Cross beam 4x22.5ish

The top and bottom pieces are inside the sides and back if that makes sense.

So on the side pieces you'll cut notches (not the technical term but what I'm going to use from now on) at the top, bottom and then about 5 inches from the bottom so you can slide the sump shelf in. You'll also have notches at the front so the beam can be installed.

The back has notches on top, bottom and 5 inches up for sump shelf.

The top and bottom notches are where the top and bottom pieces of the stand will squeeze in. It's like a big puzzle.

I'm going to a rough sketch on paper for you. It may be the worst drawing you've ever seen but hopefully gives a better idea. This stand has been amazing so far.

[rtparty]

Alright, bear with me here. This was thrown together in 2 seconds. Not to scale and not perfect but should give you the idea of what's needed.

The squiqqle lines are the notches. That is where another piece of the puzzle inserts. You'll need a hole in the top piece as well but I forgot to draw it in.

***The 22.5" for the beams is also a guess*** make sure you get your actual measurements.

[rtparty]

New skimmer on the way. The Reef Dynamics just takes up too much space in my small sump. Real estate is a premium with a small sump so I needed a space saving design. Hello Skimz SN123! It should be here this week.

Time to sell the RD skimmer. It's an amazing skimmer though.

[d0ughb0y]

I think those pipeless skimmers are the way to go if you need a small footprint.

thanks for the detailed info on the stand!
I went to harbor freight to check out some of the tools I will need. My current table saw cannot take a dado blade, so I have to shop for a router (which costs the same as a dado blade anyway). Thinking of getting this router, I will probably only need to use the tool for this project.

Is the padding you used between the tank and the stand from harbor freight? I saw the foam mats there and thought they looked similar.

I might do the stand without the elevated shelf for the sump. I'm not sure that I can do the dado cut accurately. I might just add a removable shelf for holding controller, dosing pump, etc. so I don't have to nail them to the sides. I think the top and bottom shelf holding the 3 sides is sturdy enough. I have 0 woodworking experience, so did some reading and convinced the rabbet (the term for the cut at top, bottom and rear edge of shelf) is best way to join plywood at 90 degrees. Plus I think glueing the wood will seal it from leaking any water to the floor (except through the front).
what glue did you use? tightbond III? how about the wood putty? there are so many to choose from.

[rtparty]

Originally Posted by d0ughb0y

I think those pipeless skimmers are the way to go if you need a small footprint.

thanks for the detailed info on the stand!
I went to harbor freight to check out some of the tools I will need. My current table saw cannot take a dado blade, so I have to shop for a router (which costs the same as a dado blade anyway). Thinking of getting this router, I will probably only need to use the tool for this project.

Is the padding you used between the tank and the stand from harbor freight? I saw the foam mats there and thought they looked similar.

I might do the stand without the elevated shelf for the sump. I'm not sure that I can do the dado cut accurately. I might just add a removable shelf for holding controller, dosing pump, etc. so I don't have to nail them to the sides. I think the top and bottom shelf holding the 3 sides is sturdy enough. I have 0 woodworking experience, so did some reading and convinced the rabbet (the term for the cut at top, bottom and rear edge of shelf) is best way to join plywood at 90 degrees. Plus I think glueing the wood will seal it from leaking any water to the floor (except through the front).
what glue did you use? tightbond III? how about the wood putty? there are so many to choose from.

It was just Elmer's wood glue I believe. I'm not sure on the wood putty. It was called liquid wood I think. Natural color. Pretty easy to use.

The glue won't really make the stand hold water. I caulked all the seams with a white caulk for this reason.

I believe my father in law used a router and not the blade. The blade didn't cut a smooth cut.

Just make sure to have long enough clamps for when you glue it. Squaring it all up was the toughest part