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Unread 05/03/2018, 05:41 PM   #26
Anemone
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Here at Reef Central, we believe that dialogs between participants should be conducted in a friendly and helpful manner. If you disagree with a posting, please express yourself in a way that is conducive to further constructive dialog. Conversely, when you post on any given subject, you must be willing to accept constructive criticism without posting a hostile or inflammatory response. Personal attacks of any kind will not be tolerated. Please work to insure that Reef Central remains a friendly and flame free site where everyone, especially newcomers, can feel free to post questions without fear of being unfairly criticized. Thank you for your cooperation.


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Unread 05/03/2018, 06:01 PM   #27
anthonys51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Str8linespeed View Post
My response isnt rude, its justified by the fact that you assume Im an naive, have no idea what Im talking about, and how to test, etc... I may not have been in this hobby for that long, but that doesnt mean I dont know what Im talking about.



I've mention multiple times in this thread exactly which Hanna checker I use and how many times I test per week. Again, I use the Hanna ULR, not the phosphate checker for freshwater, but the marine checker for phosphorus.



Please tell me how pods survive a coral dip? I use the Bayer method, from what I've understood that kills all critters that could be living on the frags. This is why I believe I have no pods living in my tank and that the wrasse was eating the Weslo. Which today looks puffier in certain sections of its skeleton. Im hoping it recovers.


Listen Hanna makes an ulr phosphates checker too for saltwater. Your post is in violation of the terms and conditions of use of this web site and has been edited. Further violations will result in revocation of your posting privileges.




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Last edited by Anemone; 05/03/2018 at 07:09 PM.
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Unread 05/03/2018, 06:02 PM   #28
Lsufan
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I agree with what Tripod posted & I would definitely leave the gfo off line. I think to many people just think they are supposed to use gfo & it causes them issues. I would only use it if u actaually need to lower po4.

I see posts all the time with people saying that the nutrients are to low & they are starving the corals. In my experiences simple coraline algea is a great indicator. If someone’s nutrients are truly to low then they wouldn’t have any coraline eighther. If u have coraline growing then they more then likely have enough nutrients for your corals. In your case I don’t think it’s necessarily that your nutrients are to low, it’s that they are just way out of balance like tepid states. Although I’m not sure if nutrients is your issue, or only issue anyways.



Last edited by Lsufan; 05/03/2018 at 06:11 PM.
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Unread 05/03/2018, 06:07 PM   #29
Lsufan
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The ULR is the phosphorus tester. They don’t make a ULR phosphate checker, it’s just the low range & doesn’t say ULR. Not trying to get into yalls argument, but it is what it is


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Unread 05/03/2018, 06:08 PM   #30
Str8linespeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthonys51 View Post
Listen Hanna makes an ulr phosphates checker too for saltwater. Your post is in violation of the terms and conditions of use of this web site and has been edited. Further violations will result in revocation of your posting privileges.
Wow!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lsufan View Post
I agree with what Tripod posted & I would definitely leave the gfo off line. I think to many people just think they are supposed to use gfo & it causes them issues. I would only use it if u actaually need to lower po4.

I see posts all the time with people saying that the nutrients are to low & they are starving the corals. In my experiences simple coraline algea is a great indicator. If someone’s nutrients are truly to low then they wouldn’t have any coraline eighther. If u have coraline growing then they more then likely have enough nutrients for your corals.
That makes total sense, I appreciate it.



Last edited by Anemone; 05/03/2018 at 07:10 PM.
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Unread 05/04/2018, 09:45 AM   #31
ReeferNoob4ever
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Just stop using GFO and you will see an improvement.


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Unread 05/04/2018, 10:57 AM   #32
rvareef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Str8linespeed View Post
My response isnt rude, its justified by the fact that you assume Im an naive, have no idea what Im talking about, and how to test, etc... I may not have been in this hobby for that long, but that doesnt mean I dont know what Im talking about.

I've mention multiple times in this thread exactly which Hanna checker I use and how many times I test per week. Again, I use the Hanna ULR, not the phosphate checker for freshwater, but the marine checker for phosphorus.

Please tell me how pods survive a coral dip? I use the Bayer method, from what I've understood that kills all critters that could be living on the frags. This is why I believe I have no pods living in my tank and that the wrasse was eating the Weslo. Which today looks puffier in certain sections of its skeleton. Im hoping it recovers.
Did you quarantine your rock and frags before going into the display? Bayer can kill critters living on frags, but it does not kill eggs, so multiple dippings are required if you want a podless tank. I have had numerous xmas wrasses over the years and have not had one eat a coral, I have had them pick/bite to move sandbed corals to eat the critters that live below, worms pods etc, im guessing he was hungry and seeing what was hiding under the welso. Most haliochores species dont eat corals. Do you dose ca and alk?


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Unread 05/04/2018, 02:10 PM   #33
Str8linespeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvareef View Post
Did you quarantine your rock and frags before going into the display? Bayer can kill critters living on frags, but it does not kill eggs, so multiple dippings are required if you want a podless tank. I have had numerous xmas wrasses over the years and have not had one eat a coral, I have had them pick/bite to move sandbed corals to eat the critters that live below, worms pods etc, im guessing he was hungry and seeing what was hiding under the welso. Most haliochores species dont eat corals. Do you dose ca and alk?

My rock where dry rocks and cured prior to tank start up in a separate Rubbermaid bin. The frags where not quarantined, but the way I do dip is 4:1 Tankwater/Bayer with 15 min. soak in the bayer then a 15 min each rinse in 2 different containers. Im not saying Im pod free, but I've personally have never seen them in my tank.

Yes I dose CA, Alk and Mag as needed.


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Unread 05/04/2018, 09:22 PM   #34
top shelf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Str8linespeed View Post
My rock where dry rocks and cured prior to tank start up in a separate Rubbermaid bin. The frags where not quarantined, but the way I do dip is 4:1 Tankwater/Bayer with 15 min. soak in the bayer then a 15 min each rinse in 2 different containers. Im not saying Im pod free, but I've personally have never seen them in my tank.

Yes I dose CA, Alk and Mag as needed.
My start up was almost dead on to what yours was, I had a few lbs in a 10g that got severely neglected for about 8 months before hand of which I personally didn't see any life that survived. I have almost the exact same Bayer dip routine as well. Tank is now 8 months old and I have not personally witnessed a single pod, like you said not to say there not there but I'm not seeing them and I spend a lot of time looking at my tank day and night. Any life in there I have personally added like micro brittle stars and bristle worms. So your not alone.


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