Need LED driver boards from O2surplus - Page 2

Rio1969 · 06/08/2018, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFason

I hope I do not get in trouble posting on here but I figured you need help.

Aaron is battling cancer. I talked to him once a month but have not heard back in three months. Praying for the best.

You will not be able to find this driver board as I think it was the last one he made and did not share the open files.

The board I have is very close to this. Fan control, Bluefish plug, etc. Contact me like the above guy stated. It maybe the only part close.

-Dave

Can your boards be daisy chained like Aaron's?

mcgyvr · 06/08/2018, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlassReef

mcgyvr & LQT - thanks. You're making me feel better already. At this point, however, I'll have to show quite a bit of my newbie side. I understand how to hook up one 5-up (5 LDDs on a board - 1 for each controlled channel) driver board to the BlueFish but, how do I attach 5 more 5-up boards? Is my question making making any sense?

See diagram from Oreo..
For 6 LDDs you would simply need to run 6 wires (6 black and 6 red) from the + and - VDC outputs on the meanwell power supply instead of the one set he shows there..

GlassReef · 06/08/2018, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oreo57

Yea piece of cake but what does the white network cord go to?

hooking a BF mini to LDD's is easy
Only outputs the PWM signal..and multiple LDD's PWM wires can be parallel attached to a channel..

Replace UNO w/ BF

Need a separate circuit for fans though...

Each board has an INPUT and OUTPUT cat5? network receptacle. My setup uses 6 boards. The BlueFish is on the 1st board. A network cable goes from the OUTPUT on board #1 to the INPUT on board #2, and so on. The cables carry the PWM data from the BlueFish to each board, on after another.

mcgyvr · 06/08/2018, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlassReef

Each board has an INPUT and OUTPUT cat5? network receptacle. My setup uses 6 boards. The BlueFish is on the 1st board. A network cable goes from the OUTPUT on board #1 to the INPUT on board #2, and so on. The cables carry the PWM data from the BlueFish to each board, on after another.

Ok.. so you just need to do a bunch of jumper wires..

Correct me if I'm wrong but you have..
1 bluefish mini..
6 of the o2 boards which have 6 LDDs on each right for a total of 36 LDD modules?

So you have 6 different lighting channels with 6 LDDs on each channel?

AFAIK the in/output cat 5 are just jumper wires allowing one bluefish to control multiple boards by simply jumpering the PWM from the one board to others.. (again.. I have not used nor done any studying of o2's stuff beyond a 4 second glance)

GlassReef · 06/08/2018, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFason

I hope I do not get in trouble posting on here but I figured you need help.

Aaron is battling cancer. I talked to him once a month but have not heard back in three months. Praying for the best.

You will not be able to find this driver board as I think it was the last one he made and did not share the open files.

The board I have is very close to this. Fan control, Bluefish plug, etc. Contact me like the above guy stated. It maybe the only part close.

-Dave

Thanks, I'll contact you.

-----------------------------------------

It's terrible having to hear about Aaron. I didn't really know him that well but, whenever I talked to him, he was always very helpful. Simply a nice and friendly human being.

I've had colon and liver cancer for 7 years. Seems like someone is on my side as I'm doing relatively well. My wife and I will be praying for him and his family.

DFason · 06/08/2018, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rio1969

Can your boards be daisy chained like Aaron's?

yes

GlassReef · 06/08/2018, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

Ok.. so you just need to do a bunch of jumper wires..

Correct me if I'm wrong but you have..
1 bluefish mini..
6 of the o2 boards which have 6 LDDs on each right for a total of 36 LDD modules?

So you have 6 different lighting channels with 6 LDDs on each channel?

AFAIK the in/output cat 5 are just jumper wires allowing one bluefish to control multiple boards by simply jumpering the PWM from the one board to others.. (again.. I have not used nor done any studying of o2's stuff beyond a 4 second glance)

So you have 6 different lighting channels with 6 LDDs on each channel?

The question confuses me. Maybe describing my setup will help:

The pic shows Top and Bottom of a single heat sink:

1. Six 2ft long heatsinks

2. Twelve Lumia 5.2 70W (5 channel) LED chips - 2 on each heat sink connected together in series. Then 5+ wires and 5- wires to the PCB (for the 5 channels)

3. Six O2Surplus 6 channel LDD boards - 1 on each heat sink, each holds 5 LDDs. The ONLY connection between these 6 boards is the cat5 (MWM) cable.

4. Three MW NES 350W 48V power supplies - Each of these powers 4 LED chips (280W) / the contents of 2 heat sinks

5. A BlueFish Mini controller - the controller is on the first (of 6) PCBs

oreo57 · 06/08/2018, 05:04 PM

Yea AFAICT the Cat 5 only carries the 5v PWM signal. Believe the board has a 5V "boost" so as to not lose current down the line.
Depending on how far each is you may or may not be able to just parallel the LDD's

Then again, maybe not ...

Quote:

From the Master, the Mini’s 6 channels of PWM signals are passed directly and unaltered to the 2 onboard Ethernet connections. Ethernet cables can then be used to connect multiple driver Pcbs in a daisy chained fashion. This design makes it possible to control multiple driver PcBs, each configured to operate independently from the first, as diodes are employed on all 6 PWM channels to prevent cross signaling between multiple boards.

Just need to hook your bluefish mini to the first ethernet cable.. and figure out the fan thing..

Err.. getting confusing the more I read about the jumpers..

AHHH.. now I found it...

Quote:

Ethernet CAT5/6 cable is used to interconnect the boards. Each board now includes a 5v buffer on each of the 6 PWM signal channels, making it possible to daisy chain dozens of boards off one BF Mini

GlassReef · 06/08/2018, 06:51 PM

oreo - now I understand - I think. If there just wasn't a grey mist covering everything.

So, all I have to do is start with 6 normal 5up LDD boards, add 6 Zeners, 5V and 2 cat5 sockets. Then attach the BlueFish to the first board and connect the boards together with cat5.

Actually, I read somewhere the 7th and 8th conductors were 5V and ground. Somehow the ground was very important. Am I getting it at all?

oreo57 · 06/08/2018, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlassReef

oreo - now I understand - I think. If there just wasn't a grey mist covering everything.

So, all I have to do is start with 6 normal 5up LDD boards, add 6 Zeners, 5V and 2 cat5 sockets. Then attach the BlueFish to the first board and connect the boards together with cat5.

Actually, I read somewhere the 7th and 8th conductors were 5V and ground. Somehow the ground was very important. Am I getting it at all?

Bluefish, power supply and LDD's (input side, not output side)) all need to have a common ground on the DC side.. just how it works.. and why there is only 1 PWM wire on the LDD's (+)

GlassReef · 06/09/2018, 01:09 PM

So, I'm gonna try and repair these boards...

This is an Eagle(?) image of the board:

I've stared and stared at the pic and think I see a way to repair the damage. I would like to ask you experts a couple of questions before I start.

Q1 - You'll notice that where each LDD fits on the board, there is a 10K SMD resister. The resister R2 where LDD-1 is was turned to dust. First, can I replace it with a normal 1/4W resister?

Q2 - Notice the thin red trace which goes through the resister; the trace looks like it only goes to one terminal of the SMD and then continues to the PWM pin on the LDD. If that is so, then the other end of the resister must be soldered to the base of the PCB?

If I measure resistance from the LDD PWM pin to the cat5 output pin (where the trace goes) I get 9940 Ohms. I get the same value if I measure from the LDD PWM pin to the base of the PCB.

If the traces go to one end of the SMD and continue from the other end, wouldn't the images of the traces be illustrated differently?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I think I made a total mess of describing what I'm talking about... If it helps, here is a damaged board:

Any help would be helpful.

slief · 06/09/2018, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlassReef

So, I'm gonna try and repair these boards...

This is an Eagle(?) image of the board:

I've stared and stared at the pic and think I see a way to repair the damage. I would like to ask you experts a couple of questions before I start.

Q1 - You'll notice that where each LDD fits on the board, there is a 10K SMD resister. The resister R2 where LDD-1 is was turned to dust. First, can I replace it with a normal 1/4W resister?

Q2 - Notice the thin red trace which goes through the resister; the trace looks like it only goes to one terminal of the SMD and then continues to the PWM pin on the LDD. If that is so, then the other end of the resister must be soldered to the base of the PCB?

If I measure resistance from the LDD PWM pin to the cat5 output pin (where the trace goes) I get 9940 Ohms. I get the same value if I measure from the LDD PWM pin to the base of the PCB.

If the traces go to one end of the SMD and continue from the other end, wouldn't the images of the traces be illustrated differently?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I think I made a total mess of describing what I'm talking about... If it helps, here is a damaged board:

Any help would be helpful.

Given my experience in PCB repairs (nearly 30 years worth) and looking at the burns on that board, I think you will likely be wasting your time. There is far too much damage to that board for it to be salvageable IMO. Not only is the board and it’s traces damaged but as are many of the solder pads which will make it difficult if not impossible to attach the components to. Also, given the damage there, I’d speculate that there will be several components on that board that will be damaged beyond what the eyes can see. If it were me, I would either look into new lighting or get yourself some new meanwell drivers and power supplies unless the power supplies are still good. That or see what Dfason can do for you. Even if you got those boards working again, their reliability would be suspect and you risk not only addional failures but possibly fire. In all honesty, you couldn’t pay me enough to run that board given the damage I see. It’s just not worth the risk let alone headache because that is not going to be a simple repair.

oreo57 · 06/09/2018, 06:02 PM

First I'll agrre w/ the above..

Then r2-7 are pull down resistors to turn the LDD's off in the event of controller failure (W/ out it the LDD's will just go to full)..

Technically they ar unnecessary, and in this case it will complicate things because until you get all control circuits working your LED will never light.. complicates troubleshooting.

HEF405ob is a non inverting buffer (sounds like I know something) so I assume that's what O2surplus used to "buffer" the PWM line output to the other boards..
https://assets.nexperia.com/document...t/HEF4050B.pdf

Bottom right fried chip looks to be this:
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/uln2003a.pdf

Basically an amplified "switch block" (5v in fan current 12v out).. prob for the fans..?

What I'm not seeing is where both the bluefish and nano are getting their power from..
Corrected this section BF and nano can run off 12v.. brain burp..still wondering about those to chips.
Really shouldn't be too difficult to breadboard this.. as I said, mostly modules..

Thick blue is all the (+) and I assume the major (-) is on the board backplain and not shown here.
you didn't really use the Nano ie. had it programmed? Everything was through the Bluefish cloud right?

If that is the case going back to the new 5up LDD boards and a BF mini in a normal arrangement is pretty simple..
Once you get your light program up, and run the fans "manually" w/ timers and wall warts (or add a fan speed circuit from a PC add on ect.)

Only catch afaict is all the new wiring you will run to parallel 4 boards off one bf mini output and of course tying all board/ps grounds together..
That is whre hisnice cat5 arrangement came in..

aduino "circuit"
bluefish "circuit"
LDD "circuit"
and fan circuit..

There is like a billion of these to run your fans off the 48v "rail" on your ps's..

Or you can see if your scr's are still working ..

Sadly, one LDD short for your needs but would take care of a bunch of things

https://www.rapidled.com/ldd-h-4s-driver-board/

Personal rant: Nobody should design 4 up LDD boards.. Most BASIC config is R,G,B,WW,CW regardless of use..
all boards should jumper the pull down resistor..

Basic rough drawing:
http://www.qualiteitems.com/images/rebuild.JPG

GlassReef · 06/09/2018, 08:17 PM

slief - thanks. oreo agrees with you. You both have talked me down from making a big mistake. Although I did manage to get 2 boards working, as you mentioned, question is for how long.

oreo - thanks for all the work you put into your post. So much detail! I sent David (DFason) an email on Thursday about his driver boards but haven't heard back. I think I used an incorrect email address, so I sent another to a gmail account that he mentioned "on another board".

On the good side, 26 out of 30 LDDs are OK, all Lumina 5.2 chips are OK, the BlueFish Mini is OK, and all power supplies are OK. So 6 5up boards should do it. Won't give me what I had, but it'll have to do.

BTW: anyone know how Dave's boards daisy-chain with the BF Mini?

slief · 06/09/2018, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlassReef

slief - thanks. oreo agrees with you. You both have talked me down from making a big mistake. Although I did manage to get 2 boards working, as you mentioned, question is for how long.

oreo - thanks for all the work you put into your post. So much detail! I sent David (DFason) an email on Thursday about his driver boards but haven't heard back. I think I used an incorrect email address, so I sent another to a gmail account that he mentioned "on another board".

On the good side, 26 out of 30 LDDs are OK, all Lumina 5.2 chips are OK, the BlueFish Mini is OK, and all power supplies are OK. So 6 5up boards should do it. Won't give me what I had, but it'll have to do.

BTW: anyone know how Dave's boards daisy-chain with the BF Mini?

Did you try sending him a PM? That might be best.

LQT · 06/10/2018, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlassReef

slief

BTW: anyone know how Dave's boards daisy-chain with the BF Mini?

Yes, they are easily connected with the Bluefish Mini and daisy chaining them to the other boards that you have should be quite straightforward.

Macca_75 · 06/11/2018, 04:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlassReef

slief - thanks. oreo agrees with you. You both have talked me down from making a big mistake. Although I did manage to get 2 boards working, as you mentioned, question is for how long.

oreo - thanks for all the work you put into your post. So much detail! I sent David (DFason) an email on Thursday about his driver boards but haven't heard back. I think I used an incorrect email address, so I sent another to a gmail account that he mentioned "on another board".

On the good side, 26 out of 30 LDDs are OK, all Lumina 5.2 chips are OK, the BlueFish Mini is OK, and all power supplies are OK. So 6 5up boards should do it. Won't give me what I had, but it'll have to do.

BTW: anyone know how Dave's boards daisy-chain with the BF Mini?

What are these new "Daves boards" you are referring to @GlassReef? If I can't fix my current O2Surplus board then I am also on the lookout for a 5up (6up preferred) board so I can also do moonlight that can hook up to my BF mini and I can daisy chain as I have 3 "units" that run in serial (6 chips in all). I have 2 of the chains (so 6 units or 12 chips) combining for a total of 11 channels including moonlight controlled by 2 x BF Mini's.

Everything I find to date is 4up

LQT · 06/11/2018, 09:40 AM

This is what we're referring to as Dave's boards. These are the custom boards that Dave Fason uses for his Nanobox fixtures. They are 6-up boards. On my Nanobox Retrofit Kit, I have one SCW driver for fan control and 5 LDD drivers for the 5 channel control over my Nanobox LED arrays.

Sorry for the lousy cellphone shot.

GlassReef · 06/11/2018, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LQT

This is what we're referring to as Dave's boards. These are the custom boards that Dave Fason uses for his Nanobox fixtures. They are 6-up boards. On my Nanobox Retrofit Kit, I have one SCW driver for fan control and 5 LDD drivers for the 5 channel control over my Nanobox LED arrays.

Sorry for the lousy cellphone shot.

Thanks for the info. I just talked (per email) to Dave about buying 6 of them.

GlassReef · 06/11/2018, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Macca_75

What are these new "Daves boards" you are referring to @GlassReef? If I can't fix my current O2Surplus board then I am also on the lookout for a 5up (6up preferred) board so I can also do moonlight that can hook up to my BF mini and I can daisy chain as I have 3 "units" that run in serial (6 chips in all). I have 2 of the chains (so 6 units or 12 chips) combining for a total of 11 channels including moonlight controlled by 2 x BF Mini's.

I don't really know much about them but I'll be buying 6. I don't, yet, understand how they are supposed to be daisy chained.

LQT · 06/11/2018, 10:37 AM

I would imagine that jumper wires would work. If you look at my photo, you see along the bottom are the connections to the LEDs and fan. The connections on the upper left are the connections for the ribbon cable wires (that I linked to earlier) to the Bluefish Mini. The connections to the upper right are the (+, -) to the power supply. I would think that all of the connections across the top in my photo could be daisy chained with jumper wires. I’m sure Dave can easily walk you through the process.

oreo57 · 06/11/2018, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlassReef

I don't really know much about them but I'll be buying 6. I don't, yet, understand how they are supposed to be daisy chained.

Same as I showed you w/ the link above..

Still wondering if the BF mini outputs enough current ..

GlassReef · 06/11/2018, 03:35 PM

oreo - Sorry 'bout that... You're right, I'd seen it. Problem is, at my age sometimes things get a little lost.

Macca_75 · 06/11/2018, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LQT

This is what we're referring to as Dave's boards. These are the custom boards that Dave Fason uses for his Nanobox fixtures. They are 6-up boards. On my Nanobox Retrofit Kit, I have one SCW driver for fan control and 5 LDD drivers for the 5 channel control over my Nanobox LED arrays.

Sorry for the lousy cellphone shot.

Thanks - is there a link to a thread with more info about them?

GlassReef · 06/11/2018, 03:58 PM

I haven't been able to find one.

06/08/2018, 06:51 PM	#34
GlassReef Got Reef Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Weeki Wachee, Florida Posts: 2,501	oreo - now I understand - I think. If there just wasn't a grey mist covering everything. So, all I have to do is start with 6 normal 5up LDD boards, add 6 Zeners, 5V and 2 cat5 sockets. Then attach the BlueFish to the first board and connect the boards together with cat5. Actually, I read somewhere the 7th and 8th conductors were 5V and ground. Somehow the ground was very important. Am I getting it at all? __________________ Tom No matter how much you try to push the envelope, it remains stationary.

06/09/2018, 01:09 PM	#36
GlassReef Got Reef Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Weeki Wachee, Florida Posts: 2,501	So, I'm gonna try and repair these boards... This is an Eagle(?) image of the board: I've stared and stared at the pic and think I see a way to repair the damage. I would like to ask you experts a couple of questions before I start. Q1 - You'll notice that where each LDD fits on the board, there is a 10K SMD resister. The resister R2 where LDD-1 is was turned to dust. First, can I replace it with a normal 1/4W resister? Q2 - Notice the thin red trace which goes through the resister; the trace looks like it only goes to one terminal of the SMD and then continues to the PWM pin on the LDD. If that is so, then the other end of the resister must be soldered to the base of the PCB? If I measure resistance from the LDD PWM pin to the cat5 output pin (where the trace goes) I get 9940 Ohms. I get the same value if I measure from the LDD PWM pin to the base of the PCB. If the traces go to one end of the SMD and continue from the other end, wouldn't the images of the traces be illustrated differently? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- I think I made a total mess of describing what I'm talking about... If it helps, here is a damaged board: Any help would be helpful. __________________ Tom No matter how much you try to push the envelope, it remains stationary.

06/09/2018, 06:02 PM	#38
oreo57 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Posts: 1,793	First I'll agrre w/ the above.. Then r2-7 are pull down resistors to turn the LDD's off in the event of controller failure (W/ out it the LDD's will just go to full).. Technically they ar unnecessary, and in this case it will complicate things because until you get all control circuits working your LED will never light.. complicates troubleshooting. HEF405ob is a non inverting buffer (sounds like I know something) so I assume that's what O2surplus used to "buffer" the PWM line output to the other boards.. https://assets.nexperia.com/document...t/HEF4050B.pdf Bottom right fried chip looks to be this: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/uln2003a.pdf Basically an amplified "switch block" (5v in fan current 12v out).. prob for the fans..? What I'm not seeing is where both the bluefish and nano are getting their power from.. Corrected this section BF and nano can run off 12v.. brain burp..still wondering about those to chips. Really shouldn't be too difficult to breadboard this.. as I said, mostly modules.. Thick blue is all the (+) and I assume the major (-) is on the board backplain and not shown here. you didn't really use the Nano ie. had it programmed? Everything was through the Bluefish cloud right? If that is the case going back to the new 5up LDD boards and a BF mini in a normal arrangement is pretty simple.. Once you get your light program up, and run the fans "manually" w/ timers and wall warts (or add a fan speed circuit from a PC add on ect.) Only catch afaict is all the new wiring you will run to parallel 4 boards off one bf mini output and of course tying all board/ps grounds together.. That is whre hisnice cat5 arrangement came in.. aduino "circuit" bluefish "circuit" LDD "circuit" and fan circuit.. There is like a billion of these to run your fans off the 48v "rail" on your ps's.. Or you can see if your scr's are still working .. Sadly, one LDD short for your needs but would take care of a bunch of things https://www.rapidled.com/ldd-h-4s-driver-board/ Personal rant: Nobody should design 4 up LDD boards.. Most BASIC config is R,G,B,WW,CW regardless of use.. all boards should jumper the pull down resistor.. Basic rough drawing: http://www.qualiteitems.com/images/rebuild.JPG Last edited by oreo57; 06/09/2018 at 07:08 PM. Reason: edit

06/09/2018, 08:17 PM	#39
GlassReef Got Reef Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Weeki Wachee, Florida Posts: 2,501	slief - thanks. oreo agrees with you. You both have talked me down from making a big mistake. Although I did manage to get 2 boards working, as you mentioned, question is for how long. oreo - thanks for all the work you put into your post. So much detail! I sent David (DFason) an email on Thursday about his driver boards but haven't heard back. I think I used an incorrect email address, so I sent another to a gmail account that he mentioned "on another board". On the good side, 26 out of 30 LDDs are OK, all Lumina 5.2 chips are OK, the BlueFish Mini is OK, and all power supplies are OK. So 6 5up boards should do it. Won't give me what I had, but it'll have to do. BTW: anyone know how Dave's boards daisy-chain with the BF Mini? __________________ Tom No matter how much you try to push the envelope, it remains stationary.

06/11/2018, 09:40 AM	#43
LQT Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Fairfield, CT Posts: 1,516	This is what we're referring to as Dave's boards. These are the custom boards that Dave Fason uses for his Nanobox fixtures. They are 6-up boards. On my Nanobox Retrofit Kit, I have one SCW driver for fan control and 5 LDD drivers for the 5 channel control over my Nanobox LED arrays. Sorry for the lousy cellphone shot. __________________ - Leon (aka - Water Dog) Deep Blue 57 Edge ATI Acro Garden Build Thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=25573384#post25573384 Current Tank Info: DeepBlue 57 Edge

06/11/2018, 10:37 AM	#46
LQT Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Fairfield, CT Posts: 1,516	I would imagine that jumper wires would work. If you look at my photo, you see along the bottom are the connections to the LEDs and fan. The connections on the upper left are the connections for the ribbon cable wires (that I linked to earlier) to the Bluefish Mini. The connections to the upper right are the (+, -) to the power supply. I would think that all of the connections across the top in my photo could be daisy chained with jumper wires. I’m sure Dave can easily walk you through the process. __________________ - Leon (aka - Water Dog) Deep Blue 57 Edge ATI Acro Garden Build Thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=25573384#post25573384 Current Tank Info: DeepBlue 57 Edge

06/11/2018, 03:35 PM	#48
GlassReef Got Reef Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Weeki Wachee, Florida Posts: 2,501	oreo - Sorry 'bout that... You're right, I'd seen it. Problem is, at my age sometimes things get a little lost. __________________ Tom No matter how much you try to push the envelope, it remains stationary.

06/11/2018, 03:58 PM	#50
GlassReef Got Reef Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Weeki Wachee, Florida Posts: 2,501	I haven't been able to find one. __________________ Tom No matter how much you try to push the envelope, it remains stationary.