Atomikk's 65 Reef - Page 2

Atomikk · 06/08/2005, 09:55 AM

Hey Salty, post pics in here. I will probably have a similar setup as yours.

SaltyMember · 06/08/2005, 12:22 PM

I will try to post some later tonight Atomikk.

mrreuben · 06/08/2005, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by SaltyMember
Good thread! I just finished upgrading from my 29g to a 65g AGA RR this weekend. I also used a 20g long tank as my sump with acrylic baffels. It seems to be working well so far.
I also used a mag 7 for my return pump. I plumbed it with 3/4inch tubing with a ball vavle on it and I am getting good flow since there are no turns in the plumbing. With head pressure I figure I am getting 500gph flow into the tank. I think this is plenty since the water entering my sump is pretty strong, turbulent and pretty noisy. I am still tweaking the drain plumbing to make it more quiet. I will try to post pics of my setup later tonight.

You should be able to get good flow with PVC as well. As long as you would use more 45's instead of 90's. I have 4 years of plumbing experience and ive never seen the pipes not be able to handle the flow unless they were clogged.

SaltyMember · 06/08/2005, 06:38 PM

Here are the photos of my 65g I promised.

20 gal sump

Front pic of tank

Rear view of tank

Tank room

The sump is divided into separate drain/skimmer, refuge and return areas. I have chaeto macroalgae in the fuge. Right now I have only a Jali 13watt PC light over the fuge but I will most likely upgrade this eventually.

I used 3/4inch black tubing for my Mag7, primarily because I already had the barbed fitting for the pump and a barbed ball valve from my previous setup. I used 1" PVC for the drain plumbing. As you can see, my plumbing is very basic. I have my drain pipe exiting about 3 inches below the water line into a Micron bag. The bag has significantly reduced the splashing and noise from the drain.

I still have to put my black background on the tank and have to fix the drywall around the front of the tank.

Right now I have 45lbs of mature live rock from my 29g sitting on top of about 45 lbs of baserock from HiRocks.com. I still have to play around with the aquascaping since I am not happy with it yet. Let me know if you have any questions Atomikk. Hope this was helpful.

Atomikk · 06/08/2005, 07:39 PM

Hey Salty, that pinkish stuff around the ends of pvc's.. what bonding agent is that?

SaltyMember · 06/08/2005, 08:18 PM

Purple PVC primer. It goes on the pipe before the glue. This was the first time I worked with PVC so my glue job is pretty messy.

Atomikk · 06/09/2005, 11:14 AM

Oh ok, and the glue you use for the pvcs is.....?

SaltyMember · 06/09/2005, 12:14 PM

PVC glue. You use primer first then the glue. Directions are right on the cans. It was pretty easy to do.

Atomikk · 06/09/2005, 01:04 PM

Thanks Salty. I also concluded that I will be making a 25gal sump from a small tank. Its really inexpensive when you think about it. It sure beats spending good $400+ on a decent Berlin sump.

SaltyMember · 06/09/2005, 05:28 PM

Quote:

It sure beats spending good $400+ on a decent Berlin sump.

You got that right.

mrreuben · 06/09/2005, 09:17 PM

I finaly bought my new tank today. I got a 70 gal oceanic rr. The same as the 65, just an inch taller. Im pretty excited, but i still need the lights.

Atomikk · 06/10/2005, 08:23 PM

Ok Guys.... I am going in... tonight I am building my sump. Bought a 29 gal 30"x12"x18" tank, and got some acrylic sheets wich I am going to cut. I will post pics of my messy job..err.. project..

Atomikk · 06/10/2005, 10:11 PM

Ok here we go...

My 29 gal and the tools....

My ghetto work bench.. note the dishwasher and the cutting board as my tools

Messy, but its done... The first chamber is the inflow where i will place a sponge and carbon for initial filtration. Then I will have plenty room for a skimmer (a large one), then I will place some LR before the bubble trap baffels. The last chamber is the outflow with my mag 7 pump.

I will test the sump for leaks tomorrow. I will post pics on my progress.

mpcart · 06/11/2005, 06:14 AM

You might want to add more distance between those baffles. The closer they are together, the faster the water goes and the more bubbles are carried through. Making the traps 2" apart will slow the water down and allow the bubbles to float up.

Otherwise it looks good.

-Mike

Atomikk · 06/11/2005, 07:54 AM

Thats true, but I saw this design for the baffels on Malev's site..
http://www.melevsreef.com/29g/sump/design.html

So I went for it.

Atomikk · 06/11/2005, 11:11 AM

Well today I couldnt get the finished sump into the stand. SO I had to shave some small areas in the stand to fit it in properly.

So now it fits.. yiiipppppeee!

Now to get a skimmer.. any suggestions?

psycho_clown · 06/11/2005, 12:46 PM

just tagging along to see the tanks outcome

Atomikk · 06/11/2005, 04:42 PM

thanks clown... here are more pics...

Got the skimmer today with plumbing that I am going to use.. no pvcs for me...

The Berlin Venturi Skimmer.... its all I will ever need for skimming..

No pvc plumbing..

I will post pics once I get the plumbing done..

SaltyMember · 06/12/2005, 09:58 AM

Looks good. Just a tip... To make it easier to get the hose fully on the barbed ends soak the tubing in hot water for a few minutes.

Atomikk · 06/12/2005, 05:27 PM

Ok folks, this is the work I did today...

I got scared when I saw this guys 90gal AGA tank's bottom gave out because the stand was bare in the middle.....hence the two new pieces in the stand

Finally started the piping... the left and right sides of the sump is done.. I still have to figure out how to setup my skimmer...stay tuned..

My refugium and the outflow pipes.... might do some more modifications on that...

mpcart · 06/12/2005, 05:37 PM

What are the two pieces in the middle for? The glass tank will be supported by the frame around the bottom - there shouldn't be anything touching the glass on the bottom. If you have those wood pieces supporting the bottom then it could cause the bottom to break.

-Mike

Atomikk · 06/12/2005, 08:19 PM

No, its not supported only by the two pieces. What I found out is that the tank was sitting on two small pieces on boths sides of the stand. I know the tank is supported by a plastic running underneath the center of the tank. Also they are not holding up the tank at all. They are a tiny bit below the tank, so it there is any defects in the structure of the stand, they would serve as a backup plan.

Atomikk · 06/17/2005, 11:01 PM

Sorry for the lack of updates. I have been busy with work lately.

OK, I have finally finished my plumbing. Its running well. I am running a tap water test to see if there are defects in my design. I get pretty good flow from my mag7. I am also using another mag7 for the Berlin skimmer.

I recently figured out how to reduce the noise coming from the sump. All I had to do is turn the ballvalve from the flow-in piping.

Oh and BTW ..I LOVE the overflow! I tried to test it if power failed.. and it flows into my sump until the overflow is drained.. but that is it. The tank water remains the same level. ITs because of the dual chambers in the overflow box. I HIGHLY recommend this product!! I will post some pics later...

Now I will work on purchasing a RO/DI unit, a refractometer, and a digital thermometer. Keep you all posted..

lessans · 06/18/2005, 03:38 AM

Sounds good so far. I have the same problem with noise from overflow and sump. I'll see if turning nob on my ball valve helps it reduce noise.

Atomikk · 06/28/2005, 07:09 AM

The ball valve worked good for me!

Sorry guys for the lack of updates and pics..

My computer was in the shop getting fixed.. damned video card. Also my camera is at my brothers place so I have to retrieve it soon.

As for my setup, I did some modifications at the base of the overflow holes. I noticed a small leak, and couldn't stop it so I siliconed it and it WORKED! I also had to reinforce the baffels with some more silicone.

I bought a Pure-Flo II 24gpd RO/DI unit. It works really good. It is a bit slow but who cares. I sure dont! I have my tank 3/4 filled with the RO water. Soon enough I will be doing my cycle.... woooo hoooo!! Almost there.

Now here is a question, because I am going to be buying LR sooner than later. If the LR is uncured.. how do you cure it, and when do you know if it is cured? Do you use any lighting to cure it? And finally does anyone know of a good online store that will ship LR to Canada (Toronto)?

06/09/2005, 09:17 PM	#36
mrreuben Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Reading Pa Posts: 295	I finaly bought my new tank today. I got a 70 gal oceanic rr. The same as the 65, just an inch taller. Im pretty excited, but i still need the lights. __________________ if you got questions bout pipes. im your man Current Tank Info: 70 gal oceanic rr, outer orbit 36" 150w mh 2x 96w pc attinics, 20 gal long tank turned into my sump, mag 9.5 sump return pump, little giant 3mdqx-sc used for my closed loop.

06/18/2005, 03:38 AM	#49
lessans Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Decatur, GA Posts: 913	Sounds good so far. I have the same problem with noise from overflow and sump. I'll see if turning nob on my ball valve helps it reduce noise. __________________ "Oh, Mother, I come baring a gift. I'll give you a hint. It's in my diaper and it's not a toaster" -Stewie Griffin Current Tank Info: current tank: 20 gal reef; former tanks: 65 gal reef, 10 gal freshwater

06/08/2005, 09:55 AM	#26
Atomikk SPS OG Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,282	Hey Salty, post pics in here. I will probably have a similar setup as yours.

06/08/2005, 12:22 PM	#27
SaltyMember Premium Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: NJ Posts: 1,355	I will try to post some later tonight Atomikk.

06/08/2005, 06:38 PM	#29
SaltyMember Premium Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: NJ Posts: 1,355	Here are the photos of my 65g I promised. 20 gal sump Front pic of tank Rear view of tank Tank room The sump is divided into separate drain/skimmer, refuge and return areas. I have chaeto macroalgae in the fuge. Right now I have only a Jali 13watt PC light over the fuge but I will most likely upgrade this eventually. I used 3/4inch black tubing for my Mag7, primarily because I already had the barbed fitting for the pump and a barbed ball valve from my previous setup. I used 1" PVC for the drain plumbing. As you can see, my plumbing is very basic. I have my drain pipe exiting about 3 inches below the water line into a Micron bag. The bag has significantly reduced the splashing and noise from the drain. I still have to put my black background on the tank and have to fix the drywall around the front of the tank. Right now I have 45lbs of mature live rock from my 29g sitting on top of about 45 lbs of baserock from HiRocks.com. I still have to play around with the aquascaping since I am not happy with it yet. Let me know if you have any questions Atomikk. Hope this was helpful.

06/08/2005, 07:39 PM	#30
Atomikk SPS OG Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,282	Hey Salty, that pinkish stuff around the ends of pvc's.. what bonding agent is that?

06/08/2005, 08:18 PM	#31
SaltyMember Premium Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: NJ Posts: 1,355	Purple PVC primer. It goes on the pipe before the glue. This was the first time I worked with PVC so my glue job is pretty messy.

06/09/2005, 11:14 AM	#32
Atomikk SPS OG Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,282	Oh ok, and the glue you use for the pvcs is.....?

06/09/2005, 12:14 PM	#33
SaltyMember Premium Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: NJ Posts: 1,355	PVC glue. You use primer first then the glue. Directions are right on the cans. It was pretty easy to do.

06/09/2005, 01:04 PM	#34
Atomikk SPS OG Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,282	Thanks Salty. I also concluded that I will be making a 25gal sump from a small tank. Its really inexpensive when you think about it. It sure beats spending good $400+ on a decent Berlin sump.

06/10/2005, 08:23 PM	#37
Atomikk SPS OG Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,282	Ok Guys.... I am going in... tonight I am building my sump. Bought a 29 gal 30"x12"x18" tank, and got some acrylic sheets wich I am going to cut. I will post pics of my messy job..err.. project..

06/10/2005, 10:11 PM	#38
Atomikk SPS OG Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,282	Ok here we go... My 29 gal and the tools.... My ghetto work bench.. note the dishwasher and the cutting board as my tools Messy, but its done... The first chamber is the inflow where i will place a sponge and carbon for initial filtration. Then I will have plenty room for a skimmer (a large one), then I will place some LR before the bubble trap baffels. The last chamber is the outflow with my mag 7 pump. I will test the sump for leaks tomorrow. I will post pics on my progress.

06/11/2005, 06:14 AM	#39
mpcart Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: O'Fallon, IL Posts: 2,465	You might want to add more distance between those baffles. The closer they are together, the faster the water goes and the more bubbles are carried through. Making the traps 2" apart will slow the water down and allow the bubbles to float up. Otherwise it looks good. -Mike

06/11/2005, 07:54 AM	#40
Atomikk SPS OG Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,282	Thats true, but I saw this design for the baffels on Malev's site.. http://www.melevsreef.com/29g/sump/design.html So I went for it.

06/11/2005, 11:11 AM	#41
Atomikk SPS OG Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,282	Well today I couldnt get the finished sump into the stand. SO I had to shave some small areas in the stand to fit it in properly. So now it fits.. yiiipppppeee! Now to get a skimmer.. any suggestions?

06/11/2005, 12:46 PM	#42
psycho_clown Moved On Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 325	just tagging along to see the tanks outcome

06/11/2005, 04:42 PM	#43
Atomikk SPS OG Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,282	thanks clown... here are more pics... Got the skimmer today with plumbing that I am going to use.. no pvcs for me... The Berlin Venturi Skimmer.... its all I will ever need for skimming.. No pvc plumbing.. I will post pics once I get the plumbing done..

06/12/2005, 09:58 AM	#44
SaltyMember Premium Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: NJ Posts: 1,355	Looks good. Just a tip... To make it easier to get the hose fully on the barbed ends soak the tubing in hot water for a few minutes.

06/12/2005, 05:27 PM	#45
Atomikk SPS OG Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,282	Ok folks, this is the work I did today... I got scared when I saw this guys 90gal AGA tank's bottom gave out because the stand was bare in the middle.....hence the two new pieces in the stand Finally started the piping... the left and right sides of the sump is done.. I still have to figure out how to setup my skimmer...stay tuned.. My refugium and the outflow pipes.... might do some more modifications on that...

06/12/2005, 05:37 PM	#46
mpcart Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: O'Fallon, IL Posts: 2,465	What are the two pieces in the middle for? The glass tank will be supported by the frame around the bottom - there shouldn't be anything touching the glass on the bottom. If you have those wood pieces supporting the bottom then it could cause the bottom to break. -Mike

06/12/2005, 08:19 PM	#47
Atomikk SPS OG Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,282	No, its not supported only by the two pieces. What I found out is that the tank was sitting on two small pieces on boths sides of the stand. I know the tank is supported by a plastic running underneath the center of the tank. Also they are not holding up the tank at all. They are a tiny bit below the tank, so it there is any defects in the structure of the stand, they would serve as a backup plan.

06/17/2005, 11:01 PM	#48
Atomikk SPS OG Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,282	Sorry for the lack of updates. I have been busy with work lately. OK, I have finally finished my plumbing. Its running well. I am running a tap water test to see if there are defects in my design. I get pretty good flow from my mag7. I am also using another mag7 for the Berlin skimmer. I recently figured out how to reduce the noise coming from the sump. All I had to do is turn the ballvalve from the flow-in piping. Oh and BTW ..I LOVE the overflow! I tried to test it if power failed.. and it flows into my sump until the overflow is drained.. but that is it. The tank water remains the same level. ITs because of the dual chambers in the overflow box. I HIGHLY recommend this product!! I will post some pics later... Now I will work on purchasing a RO/DI unit, a refractometer, and a digital thermometer. Keep you all posted..

06/28/2005, 07:09 AM	#50
Atomikk SPS OG Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Toronto Posts: 1,282	The ball valve worked good for me! Sorry guys for the lack of updates and pics.. My computer was in the shop getting fixed.. damned video card. Also my camera is at my brothers place so I have to retrieve it soon. As for my setup, I did some modifications at the base of the overflow holes. I noticed a small leak, and couldn't stop it so I siliconed it and it WORKED! I also had to reinforce the baffels with some more silicone. I bought a Pure-Flo II 24gpd RO/DI unit. It works really good. It is a bit slow but who cares. I sure dont! I have my tank 3/4 filled with the RO water. Soon enough I will be doing my cycle.... woooo hoooo!! Almost there. Now here is a question, because I am going to be buying LR sooner than later. If the LR is uncured.. how do you cure it, and when do you know if it is cured? Do you use any lighting to cure it? And finally does anyone know of a good online store that will ship LR to Canada (Toronto)?