Intensity of a XM10k, Color of a Ham14k? - Page 2

john rochon · 03/17/2006, 05:48 AM

unfortunatly vince thats the nature of the beast. there really is only 2 lamps, 10k and 20k. everything else is a version inbetween.thats why you get SO MANY different lamps and different colors.
If you want bright, you have to go 10K with lots of actinics
if you want bluer, then you have to find a lamp thats just right for you but don't expect any of them to compare to a 10k lamps because its just not possible.
I'm in the same boat with my large tank so I've come to the realization that I have to run a 10k with lots of actinics if I truly want to be happy. 14k, 13k,12k, 20k just are not bright enough because you can't make any of these bright like a 10k. law of physics.
smaller,shallower tanks [24'' or less] can get away with less than 10k IMO.

Ceak · 03/17/2006, 07:11 AM

Tang Man,

I have been reading about lighting for about a year and it seems the very best compromise between 10k brightness and 20k blueness while having a great amount of PAR and color popping effect on corals is the AquaConnect 14k...The price tag si the only reason we dont all have them on our tanks!

The 250W AquaConnect SE has 109 PAR

I am planning on getting the 400W...

Let me know if you're interested maybe we can order together

http://www.aquaconnect.us

john rochon · 03/17/2006, 07:58 AM

you see, thats the whole marketing thing, if the par is that high,, how do you know its a true 14k?? chances are its closer to 10k but a bit bluer. its really hard with these labeling techniques. you just have to find the bulb that suits your fancy.
IMO, most deeper tanks need 10k if you want everything on the bottom to be happy and then add your actinics for viewing pleasure.
I've try'd 13k,14, in different brands and there all a little different but none are close to 10k brightness.
now, the trick is to find a 10k that is white/slightly yellow, thats closer to a true 10k. anything moving towards any blue tint is less and less bright as you go. I've try'd the XM 10K,HAMILTON 10K and the ARC 10K. the last lamp is a knockoff and believe it or not after 4 weeks burn in it looks better than the rest. I'm very suprised.

Ceak · 03/17/2006, 08:23 AM

It's not a true 14k...

none of the bulbs are true Kelvin....

look at Sanjay's site, he has the spectral plots for almost every bulb on the market on many different ballasts...

The plots can't really tell you if the bulb is bright, although looking at the PAR rating (PPFD) can give you an idea; usualy the higher the PAR, the brighter the bulb...

With Sanjay's tests you can see which bulbs have more or less of the blue spectrum (420-450nm)and the same for yellow or pink...

I believe that lighting is very subjective but if someone is looking for the best compromise between a 10k and 20k bulb I strongly believe that the AquaConnect 14k is the solution, especialy on an HQI ballast. HQI ballasts drive the bulbs at a higher wattage making them brighter, which is the total opposite of electronic ballasts...

03/17/2006, 05:48 AM	#26
john rochon Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: canada Posts: 2,082	unfortunatly vince thats the nature of the beast. there really is only 2 lamps, 10k and 20k. everything else is a version inbetween.thats why you get SO MANY different lamps and different colors. If you want bright, you have to go 10K with lots of actinics if you want bluer, then you have to find a lamp thats just right for you but don't expect any of them to compare to a 10k lamps because its just not possible. I'm in the same boat with my large tank so I've come to the realization that I have to run a 10k with lots of actinics if I truly want to be happy. 14k, 13k,12k, 20k just are not bright enough because you can't make any of these bright like a 10k. law of physics. smaller,shallower tanks [24'' or less] can get away with less than 10k IMO.

03/17/2006, 07:11 AM	#27
Ceak Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 317	Tang Man, I have been reading about lighting for about a year and it seems the very best compromise between 10k brightness and 20k blueness while having a great amount of PAR and color popping effect on corals is the AquaConnect 14k...The price tag si the only reason we dont all have them on our tanks! The 250W AquaConnect SE has 109 PAR I am planning on getting the 400W... Let me know if you're interested maybe we can order together http://www.aquaconnect.us

03/17/2006, 07:58 AM	#28
john rochon Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: canada Posts: 2,082	you see, thats the whole marketing thing, if the par is that high,, how do you know its a true 14k?? chances are its closer to 10k but a bit bluer. its really hard with these labeling techniques. you just have to find the bulb that suits your fancy. IMO, most deeper tanks need 10k if you want everything on the bottom to be happy and then add your actinics for viewing pleasure. I've try'd 13k,14, in different brands and there all a little different but none are close to 10k brightness. now, the trick is to find a 10k that is white/slightly yellow, thats closer to a true 10k. anything moving towards any blue tint is less and less bright as you go. I've try'd the XM 10K,HAMILTON 10K and the ARC 10K. the last lamp is a knockoff and believe it or not after 4 weeks burn in it looks better than the rest. I'm very suprised.

03/17/2006, 08:23 AM	#29
Ceak Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 317	It's not a true 14k... none of the bulbs are true Kelvin.... look at Sanjay's site, he has the spectral plots for almost every bulb on the market on many different ballasts... The plots can't really tell you if the bulb is bright, although looking at the PAR rating (PPFD) can give you an idea; usualy the higher the PAR, the brighter the bulb... With Sanjay's tests you can see which bulbs have more or less of the blue spectrum (420-450nm)and the same for yellow or pink... I believe that lighting is very subjective but if someone is looking for the best compromise between a 10k and 20k bulb I strongly believe that the AquaConnect 14k is the solution, especialy on an HQI ballast. HQI ballasts drive the bulbs at a higher wattage making them brighter, which is the total opposite of electronic ballasts...