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Unread 04/29/2006, 05:03 PM   #26
Chaloupa
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Nicely done! Much easier to work in and to look at I'm sure!


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Unread 04/29/2006, 08:49 PM   #27
glaudds
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Quote:
Originally posted by subzero420
looks way more clean, nice job.

can you explain why you have the pinpoint monitor in that little pool of water and not just in the main area?
Thanks all...


This little cup is where the effluent from my Ca reactor drains into(from the black tube). The ph probe monitors the effluent's pH. It is connected to a pH controller that turns the CO2 to the reactor off and on within a prescribed range to dissolve the reactor media.
There are a couple of small holes on the bubble tower side where the effluent drains into the sump. I'm hoping that the bubble agitation in the tower will blow off some of the excess CO2.


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Unread 04/30/2006, 02:29 AM   #28
Mike.B
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Hmmph crazy!

Calcium reactors, CO2 and kalk reactors worry me, there the only piece of reef equipment I really know nothing about


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Unread 04/30/2006, 03:25 AM   #29
Casie
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Very nicely done, Glaudds! =)


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Unread 04/30/2006, 04:06 AM   #30
melev
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You did a very nice job. Glad I stumbled across your thread. The title caught my eye.


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Unread 04/30/2006, 04:33 PM   #31
glaudds
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Quote:
Originally posted by subzero420
Hmmph crazy!

Calcium reactors, CO2 and kalk reactors worry me, there the only piece of reef equipment I really know nothing about
lol, thanks subzero
Here's a good link to get you started, click on the calcium reactor primer link on that page.....
http://www.cnidarianreef.com/


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Unread 04/30/2006, 04:38 PM   #32
glaudds
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Quote:
Originally posted by melev
You did a very nice job. Glad I stumbled across your thread. The title caught my eye.
Thanks Marc...It was your site that I got alot of the information and inspiration for this project. What a great resource!
For those of you that don't know of Marc's site....
http://www.melevsreef.com/


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Unread 04/30/2006, 04:39 PM   #33
Ewan
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Very nice! I'd like to do the same some day.

I really like the effluent compartment. Nice attention to detail. Everything seems perfect.

-E.


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Unread 04/30/2006, 04:46 PM   #34
glaudds
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ewan
Very nice! I'd like to do the same some day.

I really like the effluent compartment. Nice attention to detail. Everything seems perfect.

-E.
Thanks, Ewan...I'm pretty happy with the result. The sump is pretty silent. But what I noticed since the sump was running is that my tank temperature is much more stable. Instead of the 2-3 degree daily swing, it's more like 1 degree. I'm evaporating more due the the larger exposed surface area, thus more cooling.


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Unread 06/16/2006, 11:24 AM   #35
snoozer
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Nice DIY....I noticed your float valve is on the side of your refugium. What type of water top off are you using? Thanks


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Unread 06/16/2006, 06:23 PM   #36
glaudds
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I have reservoir above the tank that gravity feeds RO/DI water into my kalk reactor which then flows through the kent float valve.

I put the float valve on the wall of the refugium that overflows into the sump in hopes that the water will help prevent the buildup of calcium deposits on the valve. Here is a picture of the valve when the sump was first set up...


In the couple of months since this setup has been running, I still get some buildup on the valve (especially the underside), but not as much as before.


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Unread 06/17/2006, 11:29 AM   #37
d.can82
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WOW, I find it hard to believe that this is your first attempt at working with acrylic- absolutely professional job! And that on top of having to contend with an already warped sump!
Just out of curiosity, do you have an auto shut off valve on the float valve, or is the mechanical portion of the float enough to shut off the flow from the reservoir?


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Unread 06/17/2006, 07:05 PM   #38
glaudds
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Thanks, d.can...it wasn't as hard as it looks. The tank bowing did throw a curve in things, however.

The kent float valve is enough to shut the flow from the the reservoir...no autoshut off valve. I have been using this same valve for about 8 years now.


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Unread 06/27/2006, 04:29 AM   #39
jeffreylam1132
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Hi glaudds,

This is some nice work. Looks really clean and well thought out. One question, what is the probe at the baffle used for? I will definitely used this thread as a guide to build my sump when I'm ready. Thanks for sharing.

Jeffrey


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Unread 06/27/2006, 06:22 AM   #40
jjjimmy
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Very nice work indeed. I just this last weekend did pretty much the same thing but my sump is larger because I have mine in my basement.

Here is a couple of pics.

Before install


After install.






It is amazing how quick a good idea can catch on.


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Unread 06/27/2006, 11:12 AM   #41
melev
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That is some flow! Look at the water coming out of the teeth on your refugium. I guess with the basement application, noise isn't a factor.

Nice work, guys.


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Unread 06/27/2006, 01:01 PM   #42
glaudds
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylam1132
Hi glaudds,

This is some nice work. Looks really clean and well thought out. One question, what is the probe at the baffle used for? I will definitely used this thread as a guide to build my sump when I'm ready. Thanks for sharing.

Jeffrey
Thanks Jeffrey,



There are actually two probe holders in the baffles, one is for a Pinpoint pH monitor (for tanks's pH), and the other is for a temperature probe I have hooked up to a Reefkeeper 2 controller.

Good luck with your new sump!


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Unread 06/27/2006, 01:05 PM   #43
glaudds
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Quote:
Originally posted by jjjimmy
Very nice work indeed. I just this last weekend did pretty much the same thing but my sump is larger because I have mine in my basement.

It is amazing how quick a good idea can catch on.
jjjimmy,

LOL, brilliant minds think alike.... great job!!

But again, I must give props to Melev for all the great ideas on his site.

That is some serious flow you have going through your fuge and sump. How much is flowing through there?


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Unread 06/27/2006, 01:13 PM   #44
jjjimmy
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Quote:
Originally posted by glaudds
jjjimmy,

LOL, brilliant minds think alike.... great job!!

But again, I must give props to Melev for all the great ideas on his site.

That is some serious flow you have going through your fuge and sump. How much is flowing through there?
Definately, props to Melev.

I am not exactly sure how much flow is going where. I have always just gone by eye and feel. I have one pump running everything on my system, a Sequence Manta Ray. If I am not mistaken it pushes almost 5200 gallons an hour at 4' of head and is a pressure rated pump.






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Unread 06/27/2006, 01:18 PM   #45
melev
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OMG. Talk about an energy hog! 771w of power, 24 hours a day.
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_...rk.asp?CartId=

My window a/c unit pulls 800w and that aggravates me to no end, especially when my electricity bill comes in.

As long as you're happy and can pay the bill...


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Unread 06/27/2006, 01:26 PM   #46
jjjimmy
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I replaced a 1HP pump that pulled even more. I should be happy when I get my electric bill.


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Unread 06/27/2006, 01:42 PM   #47
melev
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My old return pump was an Ampmaster 4700. It pulled 384w of power. Now I'm using a Little Giant that pulls 141w of power. I'm all about lower wattage when possible, which is why I run Tunzes and a VorTech.


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Unread 06/27/2006, 01:49 PM   #48
jjjimmy
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I run the Tunze's as well but when you have about 35' of head between everything that one is running your pump options become limited.


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Unread 06/27/2006, 06:20 PM   #49
Johnson7
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Is your stand store bought or DIY? I want to cut a hole in the side of my Oceanic stand so my sump will be easier to get in and out. However, I wasn't sure if a huge hole would drastically compromise the integrity of the stand even though I plan on reinforcing it after I cut the hole. I personally would rather have doors on the ends of my stands than remove the center brace.


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Unread 06/27/2006, 07:45 PM   #50
glaudds
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Quote:
Originally posted by bthomas
Is your stand store bought or DIY? I want to cut a hole in the side of my Oceanic stand so my sump will be easier to get in and out. However, I wasn't sure if a huge hole would drastically compromise the integrity of the stand even though I plan on reinforcing it after I cut the hole. I personally would rather have doors on the ends of my stands than remove the center brace.
My stand is a store bought Lee-mar stand. I contemplated removing the center brace also, but decided to cut a hole on the end. In doing so, I even had to about an inch from the 2x4's in the corners of the stand. I don't think I compromised the strength of the stand significantly in doing so. From what I understand, the attached skin of the stand also contributes alot to the overall strength.


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