chinese led lights

[BigCountry74]

DropT, I can run timers on blue and white (each box has a seperate power cord/switch), but not the 2 shades of blue. I have moonlight LEDs left over from my CF fixture that fried, and I am going to mount those in the canopy once I get it built. So I will be able to somewhat mimic what your describing.

I got the boxes mounted will post a pic later once I upload them from the camera. The light is very clean, does not look like a bottle of Windex like I was afraid of. Glad I went with 14k. My tank has been in the dark for the most part for 2 weeks, the fish dunno what to do...

It's pretty bright.

[Juggernaut63]

I have the 30 blue, 25 white variant of the is LED fixture that I picked up for about $160 shipped about 6 weeks ago.

I use the light for my 30 gallon Deep Blue frag tank that is only about 12" deep. I keep my frags on about a 5" rack so there is only about 5" of water above them.

I think the light is a "good bang for the buck" unit. But, the par is pretty low and I don't really think it's enough for SPS.

A friend came over and measured the par and it only puts out about 120 par near the surface with the light about 12" above the water. I dropped the fixture down to about 7" above the water now but I have not remeasured the par.

I'm sure its enough light for most stuff but SPS will want for more.

[BigCountry74]

Here are the lights mounted, some pics of the white + blue, then just the blue:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...4#post19933114

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by Juggernaut63

I have the 30 blue, 25 white variant of the is LED fixture that I picked up for about $160 shipped about 6 weeks ago.

I use the light for my 30 gallon Deep Blue frag tank that is only about 12" deep. I keep my frags on about a 5" rack so there is only about 5" of water above them.

I think the light is a "good bang for the buck" unit. But, the par is pretty low and I don't really think it's enough for SPS.

A friend came over and measured the par and it only puts out about 120 par near the surface with the light about 12" above the water. I dropped the fixture down to about 7" above the water now but I have not remeasured the par.

I'm sure its enough light for most stuff but SPS will want for more.

The low Par seems to be an issue with most of the LED fixtures I see sold at local pet stores as well. 55 LED's if they were Cree XP-e running a 3 Watts each would be way too powerful for 30 gallon Breeder tank. On my home made fixture for a 40 gallon breeder whish is just a couple inches taller than yours I'm running only 30 LED's and it way brighter than it was with 6 39 watt T-5's.

With your moving the lights and the description of your set up my guess is your close to that 120 PAR at your corals right now, since they are 12" from the LED's.

I have picked up two different Cree LED's Bridgelux LED's, and an off brand Import all claiming to be 3 Watt LED''s. I powered them all up at 700 ma and you could tell there was definatly difference between them. The CREE XP-E were the Brightest , followed by the Cree XT-E, and the no name were the dimmest of them all. But the CREE XT-E was drawing 2.9 Volt at 700ma which means it was running at 2.0 Watts while the XP-E was drawing 3.4 volts or wunning at 2.4 Watts. If you ran both of these up to 3 Watts I'd bet the XR-E would have been the brightest. No no name imprort was pulling 4 volts at 700 ma so it was pulling 2.8 Watts and was the dimmest of the all.

[BigCountry74]

The 30 + 25w Ebay units are 2w LEDs. That's prob why the pars were so low.

[tntneon]

Originally Posted by TropTrea

The low Par seems to be an issue with most of the LED fixtures I see sold at local pet stores as well. 55 LED's if they were Cree XP-e running a 3 Watts each would be way too powerful for 30 gallon Breeder tank. On my home made fixture for a 40 gallon breeder whish is just a couple inches taller than yours I'm running only 30 LED's and it way brighter than it was with 6 39 watt T-5's.

With your moving the lights and the description of your set up my guess is your close to that 120 PAR at your corals right now, since they are 12" from the LED's.

I have picked up two different Cree LED's Bridgelux LED's, and an off brand Import all claiming to be 3 Watt LED''s. I powered them all up at 700 ma and you could tell there was definatly difference between them. The CREE XP-E were the Brightest , followed by the Cree XT-E, and the no name were the dimmest of them all. But the CREE XT-E was drawing 2.9 Volt at 700ma which means it was running at 2.0 Watts while the XP-E was drawing 3.4 volts or wunning at 2.4 Watts. If you ran both of these up to 3 Watts I'd bet the XR-E would have been the brightest. No no name imprort was pulling 4 volts at 700 ma so it was pulling 2.8 Watts and was the dimmest of the all.

-Did you by any chance test xp-g too, just curious in the numbers ?

greetingzz tntneon

[pompeyjohn]

Originally Posted by Juggernaut63

I have the 30 blue, 25 white variant of the is LED fixture that I picked up for about $160 shipped about 6 weeks ago.

I use the light for my 30 gallon Deep Blue frag tank that is only about 12" deep. I keep my frags on about a 5" rack so there is only about 5" of water above them.

I think the light is a "good bang for the buck" unit. But, the par is pretty low and I don't really think it's enough for SPS.

A friend came over and measured the par and it only puts out about 120 par near the surface with the light about 12" above the water. I dropped the fixture down to about 7" above the water now but I have not remeasured the par.

I'm sure its enough light for most stuff but SPS will want for more.

We have the same frag tank and I was looking at the exact same fixture. Thanks for the very helpful post.

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by tntneon

-Did you by any chance test xp-g too, just curious in the numbers ?

greetingzz tntneon

When I played with these I was only playng with Royal Blues. the XP-G is realy a 5 Watt White LED only at this time and Im not even sure it was out when I ran my tests.

When the price of the XP-G come down they are high on my list of LED's I'd like to try. The CRI-90 has a better manufacturers spectrum curve that any other LED I have seen. But the Lumns rating for the CRI-90 is the poorest for this series and actualy under some of the 3 Watt LEDs. If I was it I''d runn it just a hair under the 1,500ma max they recommend and would expect a very white light from it without any noticable color tint.

[TropTrea]

The XM-L neutral white also look very promising.
700 ma @ 2.9 Volts = 2.41 Watts 240 lums
1500 ma @ 3.1 Volts = 4.65 Watts 480 lums
3000 ma @ 3.35 Volts = 10 Watts 800 lums

Compared to the XP-G neutral White
700ma @ 3.0 Volts = 2.1 Watts 200 lums
1000 ma@ 3.3 Volts = 3.3 Watts 268 lums
1500 ma @ 3.6 Volts = 5.4 Watts 356 lums

note this is per mufacturers data.

[want2reef]

Originally Posted by submersible

Anyone with the aquariumleds have a killawatt meter?
Am I missing something... At aquariumleds.com, the specs say the leds are driven at 300-350mA at 3-3.5 volts. Doesn't that equal .9-1.22 watts per led? AmpsxVolts=Watts?

The taotronics are driven at 630mA but don't specify voltage. Anyone have a taotronics fixture and a killawatt?

My fixture measured in at 110 watts.

[BigCountry74]

Yeah the taotronics is 55 LEDs at 2w each which is 110. Like want2reef measured out.

The aquariumleds is 40 LEDs at 3w each, which is 120

[want2reef]

I would think the LED's draw just under 2 watts, with the fans in line.

[cerolost]

First up I love this thread and thank you all for the pictures.I have a 20g long which I have a 150w viper metal halide on with a phoenix 14k bulb. I would like to go led and I decided on either this fixture from aquariumled.com or from an ebay seller. The only other led's I have been considering are the par38 led bulbs probably 2 to have a good spread. What do you guys think? I'm growing monti's, birdsnest, mushrooms,zoas, and assorted lps like gonipora and frogspawn

[tntneon]

Originally Posted by TropTrea

The XM-L neutral white also look very promising.
700 ma @ 2.9 Volts = 2.41 Watts 240 lums
1500 ma @ 3.1 Volts = 4.65 Watts 480 lums
3000 ma @ 3.35 Volts = 10 Watts 800 lums

Compared to the XP-G neutral White
700ma @ 3.0 Volts = 2.1 Watts 200 lums
1000 ma@ 3.3 Volts = 3.3 Watts 268 lums
1500 ma @ 3.6 Volts = 5.4 Watts 356 lums

note this is per mufacturers data.

THX to share it with us , now i can compare the manufaturer data with the spec listed on my LED pannel wich consists xp-e /xp-g leds running @ 3w.

greetingzz tntneon

[newtank]

Originally Posted by BigCountry74

Here are the lights mounted, some pics of the white + blue, then just the blue:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...4#post19933114

In your pics the all on seems really blue to me to be 14k, is it just the camera, or do you feel that the pics are consistent with the eye?

I would love to see some videos of the aquarium LED models...

[TropTrea]

nut keep in mind that even if you were able to put all the LED's at say an exact 3 Watts of power there light output would not be the same.

Look at the XML putting out 800 LUMs at 10 Watts which is 80 Lums per watt when you bring it down to 2.41 Watts it produces 240 Lums wihich is 99 Lums per watt.

Compare that to the XPG putting out 200 Lums at 2.1 Watts or 95 lums per watt but when you crank it up to 5.4 Watts it produces 356 Lums or 65 Lums per watt.

The cheaper no name LEDs are most effecient in the 1 Watt range but some will not even hit 60 Lums per watt at 1 Watt.

If you look at the math you can rum 1 XML at 10 Watts and get the same amount of light of it as you would with 3 XPG running at 3.3 Watts each. But you would probably need 5 or more no name LEDs to produce that same amount of light.

then you have issues on color balance that pleases your eye and actual PAR values. The more white Light the higher the meter reading will be on the PAR meter but how will this compare to the balance of light that bothe you and your corals like?

[Phishguy]

Has anyone seen these lights?
http://houyi.en.alibaba.com/product/...time&edm_ver=e

They look pretty nice and pricing is reasonable. You can get Cree or bridgelux in many colors and all different optics

[BigCountry74]

Originally Posted by newtank

In your pics the all on seems really blue to me to be 14k, is it just the camera, or do you feel that the pics are consistent with the eye?

I would love to see some videos of the aquarium LED models...

It's the camera. I thought about that after I uploaded them...I will take some video and see if that is a better view.

[BigCountry74]

Originally Posted by TropTrea

nut keep in mind that even if you were able to put all the LED's at say an exact 3 Watts of power there light output would not be the same.

Look at the XML putting out 800 LUMs at 10 Watts which is 80 Lums per watt when you bring it down to 2.41 Watts it produces 240 Lums wihich is 99 Lums per watt.

Compare that to the XPG putting out 200 Lums at 2.1 Watts or 95 lums per watt but when you crank it up to 5.4 Watts it produces 356 Lums or 65 Lums per watt.

The cheaper no name LEDs are most effecient in the 1 Watt range but some will not even hit 60 Lums per watt at 1 Watt.

If you look at the math you can rum 1 XML at 10 Watts and get the same amount of light of it as you would with 3 XPG running at 3.3 Watts each. But you would probably need 5 or more no name LEDs to produce that same amount of light.

then you have issues on color balance that pleases your eye and actual PAR values. The more white Light the higher the meter reading will be on the PAR meter but how will this compare to the balance of light that bothe you and your corals like?

Excellent points. General rule of thumb is do not consider purchasing any LED box/strip under 80 lums per watt correct? MH is 65 to 115 lums per watt I think.

The boxes I ordered are right at 79.3

[BigCountry74]

Here is a question for you guys. Does having a glass top affect anything? I hung by LED boxes 10" above the water line, but I like using the glass top because it helps with water evap and salt creep. Will the glass barrier in between affect anything?

[120reefermadnes]

I have 2 ecorays 60ds and an older 170w maxspect on my 120 and all my montis and acros are lovein them

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by BigCountry74

Here is a question for you guys. Does having a glass top affect anything? I hung by LED boxes 10" above the water line, but I like using the glass top because it helps with water evap and salt creep. Will the glass barrier in between affect anything?

Yes Galss is a filter to UV light and could effect some of the shortest wave lenghts of light in the blue spectrum. If you can replace it with an Acrylic or plexiglass top there would be very little filtering in comparison.

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by BigCountry74

Excellent points. General rule of thumb is do not consider purchasing any LED box/strip under 80 lums per watt correct? MH is 65 to 115 lums per watt I think.

The boxes I ordered are right at 79.3

Yes Metal hides are claimed to be in that range however the ones normaly used for aquariums are closer to the bottom of that range 55 tp 75 lum per watt. Then when you add the reflectors that decrease the loss since the bulb puts the light out ion all directions you increase the effecenty from 30% getting into the tank to 60% max. So that 75 lums in a MH bulb is actualy equivelent to 50 or less lumens of LED lighting. Remember the LED light directs it light in a 120 degree angle without a lens rather than a 360 degree angle on the MH.

With that in mind a 250 Watt MH bulb is equivelent to 46 XP-G's running at 3.3 Watts each or 151 watts of LED lighting.

[newtank]

Originally Posted by BigCountry74

It's the camera. I thought about that after I uploaded them...I will take some video and see if that is a better view.

Great, interested in shimmer lines, i have heard that these dont compare to MH. hoping to go with these as well, but want the right color / brightness.

Thanks

[biecacka]

educational thread
corey