Step-by-Step: Drilling Holes in Your Glass Tank for Bulkheads - Page 20

pactrop · 07/14/2006, 09:37 PM

I try to use as much flex as I can. It is more expensive but it is worth it in forgiveness. the smaller the diameter the more flex it has. I have some 2in. flex and it is pretty stiff but the 3/4in and even the 1in. work wonders. when you glue them you have to let them sit a little longer than regular pvc but it is well worth it.

GoldStripe · 07/14/2006, 10:11 PM

Ditto

tye_c · 07/15/2006, 01:15 PM

I just tried 2 test holes on a 10g they both cracked. I was using a 55mm bit. The bit was moving pretty slow and I mostly used the weight of the drill, no added pressure. The 10g was at least 15 years old. Do you think it was the tank? I have a 75g sump that is getting 2 55mm holes and a 70 mm hole. I only paid $75 for the sump so i wont be out a lot of money, but I would like to get this done the first time. Any suggestions?

swedish steel · 07/15/2006, 09:26 PM

typ_c My first question would be, were you drilling the bottom? I understand that the bottom of glass tanks are often tempered glass. If you were drilling the side, the glass on a 10 gallon is very thin, thus not strong. I wouldn't be too worried about your success on drilling the sump. Good luck.

GoldStripe · 07/16/2006, 12:34 AM

I agree. I didn't even practice on that thickness of glass. I tried 1/4" with no failure and then went on to my tank. The thinner the glass, the harder it is to drill.

tye_c · 07/16/2006, 05:25 AM

I was drilling the sides of the 10g. I went ahead and tried the 55mm hole on the 75g. I took my time and checked it ofter. It took 1/2 an hour for 3/8 glass. The good thing was that it was a success.

What is everyone using to polish up the edges after the hole is drilled?

Tye

DHyslop · 07/16/2006, 09:07 AM

10 gallon tanks are all pretty touchy to drill because they're so thin. A lot of them break being drilled for 3/4" or 1" bulkheads, so a 55mm hole might be pushing it!

Dan

DerekW · 07/17/2006, 05:51 PM

I was curious why you didn't mount the OM closer to thepump like dtaranath. Less pipes that way, but you would need gate valves at all the BH's

GoldStripe · 07/17/2006, 07:08 PM

Not sure if that ? was directed to me or not but I assume it was. I didn't want to plumb 4 1" pipes up through the back of the stand. Actually I didn't have enough room under the stand for all that mess. It was eaier to run a single 1 1/2" up to the unit. I've seen it both ways. Not sure if there's an advantage to either.

dannieboiz · 08/06/2006, 05:19 PM

I'm about to drill the back of my 130 starfire tank. The back is 3/4" thick, has anyone have success with doing this?

I'm drilling two holes for 1.5" bulkheads.

GoldStripe · 08/06/2006, 08:00 PM

Haven't tried 3/4" glass but my 150 is 1/2" glass and I drilled 4 holes for 1.5" bulks and 2 for 1" bulks, all in the back. 3/4" seems awful thick for a 130, who made the tank? Is it starphire 3 sided and the back normal glass?

dannieboiz · 08/07/2006, 12:59 AM

yup, it's 3 sided, it's a lee mae tank I believe. I had to replace the back and the bottom panels due to cracks. bought both pcs 3/4 inch. for the price difference I choose to go 3/4 for the peace of mind. back was already 3/4 to start with anyway

GoldStripe · 08/07/2006, 07:01 AM

you may consider buying two of the bits from lau. they are so cheap it wouldn't hurt. one thing that may be more difficult is having to keep your drill straight up and down a little longer. I know that's tough for me to do and I have to take breaks often. other than that there's no difference I wouldn't think. just takes a while

dannieboiz · 08/07/2006, 10:16 AM

I've just ordered the 60mm bit from Lau already, very happy with their shipping speed. Got shipping confirmation within hours.

vanceny · 08/07/2006, 11:25 AM

6 holes drilled with bits from ebay. This is the second tank since the first shattered. Probably tempered glass. It took forever but the results are priceless.

JustOneMoreTank · 08/08/2006, 04:31 PM

Great job vanceny! Nice picture as well.

93blackgt5.0 · 10/06/2006, 12:21 AM

I am actuly wanting to try this on a 125 that I am picking up. What size bulkhead do you all recommend for a sump and return. Also is there anyone who has any pics of the supply and return not in the bottom? I am debating between hang on overflows or drilling them and controlling with a gate valve? I think the drilled would look much cleaner for install purposes since I do not have a dedicated fish room. I also would like to do a closed loop as well, but dont want to have 10 holes in the back of the tank.

Eric

donald altman · 10/11/2006, 01:33 PM

I have a 100 gallon tank and I was reading this post and decided it was time to chunk the hob refugum and tuck a 38 tall under my stand for one. I haven't gotten a pump yet but plan to order one soon.. something I did order though from lau about a week ago
was the 45mm diamond bit.. I was thinking of using 2 one inch drains going down into the refugium.

I was thinking of using 1 inch bulkheads then to use hose instead of pvc into the tank to curve water noise. Probly vinyl 1 inch id tubing.

will this be alright.. I never thought of 1 inch drains not being enough .. I was thinking 2 one at each far corner of the tank out the back.

Does everyone agree that 1 inch ust wont do it ? sheesh I thought by using two it would work great...

I hate I have already ordered the bit it will probly be on my door today or tommorrow I would guess.
I have heard by 2 people I need atleast 1.5 inch drains.

impur · 10/11/2006, 01:50 PM

Piece of cake

JustOneMoreTank · 10/11/2006, 09:09 PM

That is not a big crack in the third picture running from the top of the tank to the bottom of the tank is it?

swedish steel · 10/11/2006, 09:13 PM

93blackgt5 - I would research the inlet and outlet size of the closed loop pump to decide on the hole size. I am going with sequence dart to OM 4-way resulting in 2 inch closed loop drains and 1 inch closed loop returns. The drains to sump I used were 1 1/2 inch bulkheads - it is good to drill at least two in case one clogs. My holes are in the end glass on both ends. Go 1 1/2 times the diameter size from any edge or nearby hole, but if the holes are getting that close to each other check the total diameter of the bulkhead to be sure there is room for the two near each other. HTH

93blackgt5.0 · 10/11/2006, 09:22 PM

Thanks. I think I am going to dump the closed loop idea. What I am thinking of doing is four one inch drains about 8 inches apart and a single large overflow mounted to the tank, with an over the top return using PVC and lineloc. The thing with my tank is that it is an Oceanic, which means it had the huge center brace of tempered glass. The brace is like 20 inches wide, no joke. I guess I could plump in the drains and then drill for retuns under the overflow box. That would take away and plumbing over the tank and help with head height on the return pump. I just dont want to use alot of space that I could be using for rock work.

Eric

aroundtuit · 10/11/2006, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 93blackgt5.0
..... I guess I could plump in the drains and then drill for retuns under the overflow box. That would take away and plumbing over the tank and help with head height on the return pump. .....

Eric

Be careful with that. If you put the returns under the overflow box, when your pump is off, your tank will drain down to that level and possibly overflow your sump

93blackgt5.0 · 10/12/2006, 12:45 AM

I was just thinking of that, I need a siphon break, had a brain fart. I guess I will just use PVC over the tank like in the first picture, with a couple of lineloc outlets.

So I am thinking four, one inch bulkheads for overflow with tank mounted boxes and maybe a small closed loop running a mag 7 or 9.5?

Also, on the Ehiem pumps, can I plumb those in outside my sump. I was thinking of drilling the sump and plumbing it for an external pump. Or should I just toss it in the sump and forget about it.

Eric

donald altman · 10/12/2006, 06:35 AM

so a closed loop would just pull water out of a hose go through a pump then put it right back in without going into the sump?

I like the idea of possibly doing on of these but how do you prevent things from being sucked in.. I would imagine thats a big suction I could do this but need some help kind with the design for my 100 gallon.

i am using 2 1 inch drains into a sump with 3/4 on a scwd for returns... I would like to add the closed loop if someone could help me to figure out placement I have a 1 inch diamond bit I plan to use for the closed loop if I can make one.. can anyone help me.
Iw ould like to use a "quiet one" or something like that for a pump.

07/15/2006, 01:15 PM	#478
tye_c Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Mansfield,Ohio Posts: 888	I just tried 2 test holes on a 10g they both cracked. I was using a 55mm bit. The bit was moving pretty slow and I mostly used the weight of the drill, no added pressure. The 10g was at least 15 years old. Do you think it was the tank? I have a 75g sump that is getting 2 55mm holes and a 70 mm hole. I only paid $75 for the sump so i wont be out a lot of money, but I would like to get this done the first time. Any suggestions? __________________ Tye CORA Member Current Tank Info: Starting a 120g after 7 years out of the hobby.

07/16/2006, 05:25 AM	#481
tye_c Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Mansfield,Ohio Posts: 888	I was drilling the sides of the 10g. I went ahead and tried the 55mm hole on the 75g. I took my time and checked it ofter. It took 1/2 an hour for 3/8 glass. The good thing was that it was a success. What is everyone using to polish up the edges after the hole is drilled? Tye __________________ Tye CORA Member Current Tank Info: Starting a 120g after 7 years out of the hobby.

07/17/2006, 05:51 PM	#483
DerekW Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Southern Ontario Posts: 873	I was curious why you didn't mount the OM closer to thepump like dtaranath. Less pipes that way, but you would need gate valves at all the BH's __________________ Derek It's a small world........But I wouldn't want to paint it. Current Tank Info: 220, 4x250w mh, 4x110w actinics CS12-2 RC , 75 gallon sump, Calcium reactor, DIY 36" Kalkwasser reactor

10/06/2006, 12:21 AM	#492
93blackgt5.0 Registered Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Wichita Falls, TX Posts: 119	I am actuly wanting to try this on a 125 that I am picking up. What size bulkhead do you all recommend for a sump and return. Also is there anyone who has any pics of the supply and return not in the bottom? I am debating between hang on overflows or drilling them and controlling with a gate valve? I think the drilled would look much cleaner for install purposes since I do not have a dedicated fish room. I also would like to do a closed loop as well, but dont want to have 10 holes in the back of the tank. Eric __________________ 75 gallon reef with 100 plus pounds live rock and many corals. Current USA Outer Orbit fixture 150x2 HQI with 130x2 PC. 125 with 55 sump in the works. Current Tank Info: 75 gallon reef

10/11/2006, 01:33 PM	#493
donald altman Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Florida/Georgia Posts: 632	help with drain I have a 100 gallon tank and I was reading this post and decided it was time to chunk the hob refugum and tuck a 38 tall under my stand for one. I haven't gotten a pump yet but plan to order one soon.. something I did order though from lau about a week ago was the 45mm diamond bit.. I was thinking of using 2 one inch drains going down into the refugium. I was thinking of using 1 inch bulkheads then to use hose instead of pvc into the tank to curve water noise. Probly vinyl 1 inch id tubing. will this be alright.. I never thought of 1 inch drains not being enough .. I was thinking 2 one at each far corner of the tank out the back. Does everyone agree that 1 inch ust wont do it ? sheesh I thought by using two it would work great... I hate I have already ordered the bit it will probly be on my door today or tommorrow I would guess. I have heard by 2 people I need atleast 1.5 inch drains. __________________ -donaltman3 Current Tank Info: 100 gallon reef...

07/14/2006, 09:37 PM	#476
pactrop Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Honolulu, Hawaii Posts: 266	I try to use as much flex as I can. It is more expensive but it is worth it in forgiveness. the smaller the diameter the more flex it has. I have some 2in. flex and it is pretty stiff but the 3/4in and even the 1in. work wonders. when you glue them you have to let them sit a little longer than regular pvc but it is well worth it.

07/14/2006, 10:11 PM	#477
GoldStripe Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jville, FL Posts: 1,136	Ditto

07/15/2006, 09:26 PM	#479
swedish steel Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Everett, WA Posts: 102	typ_c My first question would be, were you drilling the bottom? I understand that the bottom of glass tanks are often tempered glass. If you were drilling the side, the glass on a 10 gallon is very thin, thus not strong. I wouldn't be too worried about your success on drilling the sump. Good luck.

07/16/2006, 12:34 AM	#480
GoldStripe Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jville, FL Posts: 1,136	I agree. I didn't even practice on that thickness of glass. I tried 1/4" with no failure and then went on to my tank. The thinner the glass, the harder it is to drill.

07/16/2006, 09:07 AM	#482
DHyslop Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: RI Posts: 1,085	10 gallon tanks are all pretty touchy to drill because they're so thin. A lot of them break being drilled for 3/4" or 1" bulkheads, so a 55mm hole might be pushing it! Dan

07/17/2006, 07:08 PM	#484
GoldStripe Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jville, FL Posts: 1,136	Not sure if that ? was directed to me or not but I assume it was. I didn't want to plumb 4 1" pipes up through the back of the stand. Actually I didn't have enough room under the stand for all that mess. It was eaier to run a single 1 1/2" up to the unit. I've seen it both ways. Not sure if there's an advantage to either.

08/06/2006, 05:19 PM	#485
dannieboiz Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: NorCal Posts: 2,514	I'm about to drill the back of my 130 starfire tank. The back is 3/4" thick, has anyone have success with doing this? I'm drilling two holes for 1.5" bulkheads.

08/06/2006, 08:00 PM	#486
GoldStripe Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jville, FL Posts: 1,136	Haven't tried 3/4" glass but my 150 is 1/2" glass and I drilled 4 holes for 1.5" bulks and 2 for 1" bulks, all in the back. 3/4" seems awful thick for a 130, who made the tank? Is it starphire 3 sided and the back normal glass?

08/07/2006, 12:59 AM	#487
dannieboiz Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: NorCal Posts: 2,514	yup, it's 3 sided, it's a lee mae tank I believe. I had to replace the back and the bottom panels due to cracks. bought both pcs 3/4 inch. for the price difference I choose to go 3/4 for the peace of mind. back was already 3/4 to start with anyway

08/07/2006, 07:01 AM	#488
GoldStripe Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jville, FL Posts: 1,136	you may consider buying two of the bits from lau. they are so cheap it wouldn't hurt. one thing that may be more difficult is having to keep your drill straight up and down a little longer. I know that's tough for me to do and I have to take breaks often. other than that there's no difference I wouldn't think. just takes a while

08/07/2006, 10:16 AM	#489
dannieboiz Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: NorCal Posts: 2,514	I've just ordered the 60mm bit from Lau already, very happy with their shipping speed. Got shipping confirmation within hours.

08/07/2006, 11:25 AM	#490
vanceny Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: New York City Posts: 287	6 holes drilled with bits from ebay. This is the second tank since the first shattered. Probably tempered glass. It took forever but the results are priceless.

08/08/2006, 04:31 PM	#491
JustOneMoreTank Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 967	Great job vanceny! Nice picture as well.

10/11/2006, 01:50 PM	#494
impur Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Eugene, OR Posts: 4,262	Piece of cake __________________ Great spirits often encounter violent opposition from mediocre minds. Current Tank Info: 75gal, 20gal sump, 6-54w T5 TEK

10/11/2006, 09:09 PM	#495
JustOneMoreTank Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 967	That is not a big crack in the third picture running from the top of the tank to the bottom of the tank is it?

10/11/2006, 09:13 PM	#496
swedish steel Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Everett, WA Posts: 102	93blackgt5 - I would research the inlet and outlet size of the closed loop pump to decide on the hole size. I am going with sequence dart to OM 4-way resulting in 2 inch closed loop drains and 1 inch closed loop returns. The drains to sump I used were 1 1/2 inch bulkheads - it is good to drill at least two in case one clogs. My holes are in the end glass on both ends. Go 1 1/2 times the diameter size from any edge or nearby hole, but if the holes are getting that close to each other check the total diameter of the bulkhead to be sure there is room for the two near each other. HTH

10/11/2006, 09:22 PM	#497
93blackgt5.0 Registered Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Wichita Falls, TX Posts: 119	Thanks. I think I am going to dump the closed loop idea. What I am thinking of doing is four one inch drains about 8 inches apart and a single large overflow mounted to the tank, with an over the top return using PVC and lineloc. The thing with my tank is that it is an Oceanic, which means it had the huge center brace of tempered glass. The brace is like 20 inches wide, no joke. I guess I could plump in the drains and then drill for retuns under the overflow box. That would take away and plumbing over the tank and help with head height on the return pump. I just dont want to use alot of space that I could be using for rock work. Eric __________________ 75 gallon reef with 100 plus pounds live rock and many corals. Current USA Outer Orbit fixture 150x2 HQI with 130x2 PC. 125 with 55 sump in the works. Current Tank Info: 75 gallon reef

10/12/2006, 12:45 AM	#499
93blackgt5.0 Registered Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Wichita Falls, TX Posts: 119	I was just thinking of that, I need a siphon break, had a brain fart. I guess I will just use PVC over the tank like in the first picture, with a couple of lineloc outlets. So I am thinking four, one inch bulkheads for overflow with tank mounted boxes and maybe a small closed loop running a mag 7 or 9.5? Also, on the Ehiem pumps, can I plumb those in outside my sump. I was thinking of drilling the sump and plumbing it for an external pump. Or should I just toss it in the sump and forget about it. Eric __________________ 75 gallon reef with 100 plus pounds live rock and many corals. Current USA Outer Orbit fixture 150x2 HQI with 130x2 PC. 125 with 55 sump in the works. Current Tank Info: 75 gallon reef

10/12/2006, 06:35 AM	#500
donald altman Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Florida/Georgia Posts: 632	so a closed loop would just pull water out of a hose go through a pump then put it right back in without going into the sump? I like the idea of possibly doing on of these but how do you prevent things from being sucked in.. I would imagine thats a big suction I could do this but need some help kind with the design for my 100 gallon. i am using 2 1 inch drains into a sump with 3/4 on a scwd for returns... I would like to add the closed loop if someone could help me to figure out placement I have a 1 inch diamond bit I plan to use for the closed loop if I can make one.. can anyone help me. Iw ould like to use a "quiet one" or something like that for a pump. __________________ -donaltman3 Current Tank Info: 100 gallon reef...