Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread - Page 22

Dapg8gt · 12/23/2014, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

No, you can't hear the digitals.

Glad you gave it a shot, too bad you didn't give it time to figure it out. If you decide to hook it back up let us know. If you don't you may want to describe the problem you had in your fs post. A reactor trapping gas isn't "fiddling". Could be anything from a bad fitting to the wrong media (arm extra course is likely the wrong media).

Out of curiosity can you post a picture of the bottom of the lid? It is hard to tell with the photos I found with the BM reactor but with all those tubes running all over the place in one of the images I think I already spot the problem.

Thanks for the response I need to get on the hunt for a good unit. I have dual stage regulator coming from a friend and now I just need the digital unit to go along with my reactor.

Anybody have a good deal on a digital/brushless one let me know.

tkeracer619 · 12/23/2014, 03:58 PM

If the budget for Dburt's pump is ok then I would go that route. It is an awesome setup! Otherwise they are slim pickings right now.

muttley101 · 12/23/2014, 04:44 PM

Watson, Sorry for the confusion what I was talking about was the brass parts between your regulator and ap doser

Dapg8gt · 12/23/2014, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

If the budget for Dburt's pump is ok then I would go that route. It is an awesome setup! Otherwise they are slim pickings right now.

Yeah I've been looking and it seems you are right.. I really can't spend the $ on that one right now unless I do a large frag sale.. It may come down to that but by the time I'm done I'm sure it would be gone =)..

dburt520 · 12/23/2014, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tkeracer619

No, you can't hear the digitals.

Glad you gave it a shot, too bad you didn't give it time to figure it out. If you decide to hook it back up let us know. If you don't you may want to describe the problem you had in your fs post. A reactor trapping gas isn't "fiddling". Could be anything from a bad fitting to the wrong media (arm extra course is likely the wrong media).

Out of curiosity can you post a picture of the bottom of the lid? It is hard to tell with the photos I found with the BM reactor but with all those tubes running all over the place in one of the images I think I already spot the problem.

Here are pics of how the lines are ran, and bottom of lid.

Water feed line:

CO2 feed line from regulator:

Bottom of lid - center if my efluent OUTPUT lube that ran back into tank:

Outside top of lid - again, center is effluent, right side is the CO2 recirculation line to the recirculation pump:

Please, if something is not right let me know. I would gladly like to use it because it worked awesome for 3 or 4 days, and then clogged. Reset it, and 3 or 4 days later it would clog again. I travel quite a bit for 3 or 4 days at a time, so I need to trust my equipment while I am away.

It is a smaller reactor, so perhaps my media was not right. The LFS recommended it and after reading about it many had good results with it, but at a much lower CO2 (seems like that would make my problem worse.)

tkeracer619 · 12/23/2014, 07:44 PM

Can you show another angle of the bottom of the lid? Particularly the acrylic tube glued to the lid.

Do you have a sponge on the bottom or just the top? I would remove the top sponge, it is unnecessary. Save it for when the bottom wears out.

What goes on the top clear bubble counter looking thing? I assume this is supposed to be the input.

It will be rock solid in no time. I travel as well, I feel your pain.

Should be setup like this but swap the two hoses on the top.

In this image if I see what I think I see there is an acrylic tube glued to the lid in line with the output. At first it tricked my eyes into thinking it was off center but that was a reflection.
This is causing the issue. It is trapping the gas inside the reactor the way a standpipe keeps water in the tank, same deal. Swapping the two tubes on the lid will give you a true lid output giving trapped gas a place to go.

dburt520 · 12/23/2014, 10:15 PM

Yes, first pic, above the blue "Tee", is the input line (I know, looks like a bubble counter...). I was holding the hose out in the pic just to show where it routed to and from.

Yes, I have 2 foam pads. One on top, one on bottom.

Yes there is an acrylic "tube" glued to the center "output" hole. I see what you mean by a deceiving shadow of some sort... new pic is here:

It is not an open tube... it is a tube, but has a "cap" glued to the bottom of it with 2 small (1/8" roughly) holes drilled on each side of the tube.

Mine is set up exactly like that picture shows, however you are saying that is incorrect? Wouldn't you want the gas to go to the top most place in the reactor (air rises, and that forces it back into the circulation pump).

dburt520 · 12/23/2014, 10:20 PM

I guess my question is, by doing this (swapping the hoses), I am essentially forcing any unused CO2 out of the reactor effluent line, is that correct?

tkeracer619 · 12/23/2014, 10:21 PM

Those two small holes are close to the "cap" end of the tube correct?

Quote:

Originally Posted by dburt520

I guess my question is, by doing this (swapping the hoses), I am essentially forcing any unused CO2 out of the reactor effluent line, is that correct?

Yes, if it didn't dissolve it will escape the reactor. At that point it is no longer contributing.

dburt520 · 12/23/2014, 10:25 PM

Sorry, realized my first pic was garbage. here are a few more:

To answer your question, yes, the two holes are close to the cap.

So, I will play with it and bring it back online. I am going to assume this is going to require a completely different feed rate, bubble size and bubble count, so it will take time to redial it back in. Going to have to set it back up when I will be home from work for a few days. Since I am starting over, is there a preferred media I should look into for a smaller reactor like this?

tkeracer619 · 12/23/2014, 10:28 PM

If you are willing to give it a go I bet something as simple as swapping those two hoses fixes the issue. Once the media dissolves go with regular arm media.

dburt520 · 12/23/2014, 10:30 PM

Well, it makes complete sense because the "directions" (if thats what you want to call them) suggest to swap the hoses (as you suggested) in the beggining to bleed any air out of the reactor, and then when the air bubbles are out and it is not grinding air, power it down and swap the hoses around as seen in the bubble magus pic as well as mine.

tkeracer619 · 12/23/2014, 10:32 PM

Also... at minimum replace the effluent output connector to a push to fit. Those barbed fittings have way too small of an orifice for a calcium reactor. They can clog with a tiny grain.

dburt520 · 12/23/2014, 10:34 PM

There is no way to replace the fittings on the reactor unless i cut/drill/grind the old fittings out?

tkeracer619 · 12/23/2014, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dburt520

Well, it makes complete sense because the "directions" (if thats what you want to call them) suggest to swap the hoses (as you suggested) in the beggining to bleed any air out of the reactor, and then when the air bubbles are out and it is not grinding air, power it down and swap the hoses around as seen in the bubble magus pic as well as mine.

For some reason manufacturers are trying to be efficient with CO2 and recycle that gas. I think it's silly, CO2 is dirt cheap. I use $10-$15 a year. I am not concerned about recycling the 10% that doesn't dissolve...

tkeracer619 · 12/23/2014, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dburt520

There is no way to replace the fittings on the reactor unless i cut/drill/grind the old fittings out?

I assumed the ones on the top were just threaded in. Did they glue them?

If so I would be more tempted to modify the probe port and use it then drilling and tapping but for now I would carry on without modding anything.

Since you are starting over go with regular arm. You will need different settings but before messing with gas make sure the reactor runs effluent for a few days without building up air to rule out leaks.

dburt520 · 12/23/2014, 10:53 PM

They were glued in, but nothing that a press, drill press and tap couldn't fix!

I am going to look into doing this to all of the fittings.

tkeracer619 · 12/23/2014, 10:57 PM

That would be the preferred solution. I don't know if I would even mess with the center one. I think it is pretty insignificant in the overall operation of the unit.

dburt520 · 12/23/2014, 11:00 PM

Should I do this to all of the fittings?

tkeracer619 · 12/23/2014, 11:24 PM

If they are glued I wouldn't really mess with too many of them. I would probably just do the offset fitting on the lid.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dapg8gt

Yeah I've been looking and it seems you are right.. I really can't spend the $ on that one right now unless I do a large frag sale.. It may come down to that but by the time I'm done I'm sure it would be gone =)..

If you keep an eye out you can score an older one at a good price. They are incredible drives. The pallet of them I had a while back had the original packing slip on one of the boxes... there are two other pallets out there. I have searched high and low for them without luck. They are probably sitting in the corner of some damp warehouse...

dburt520 · 12/25/2014, 11:24 AM

tkeracer619, first let me say thank you for taking the time to help me out.

I brought the reactor back online tuesday night, and must say so far it is operating great after making those changes.

One thing I have noticed is that it is much more efficient (I guess that's the right word)?

Prior to the changes I was running a bubble size of 5 psi, with a bubble every 4 seconds. It held the PH at 6.62 in my reactor, and ran 60ml/min through the masterflex. The controller never shut off with these settings.

I went back to those settings when I set it back up but it was way to much for my tank... I am now down to 3 psi bubble size, 1 bubble every 9 seconds and 23ml/min through the masterflex. Even with this setting on the regulator it is still turning off and on every few hours.

I keep a normal ALK/calcium level (8.5/415), and after a few adjustments this setting has kept my tank stable for almost 24 hours.

Any thoughts on why that changed so drastically?

tkeracer619 · 12/25/2014, 08:32 PM

Yup, it's working correctly now

These systems are pretty simple but when you start trapping air the whole thing goes to hell. Like you many have become frustraited and rightfully so. You spent a lot of money, more than some spend on their entire setup. I am glad it is running good now, hope it stays that way. I am glad to help and let me know if there is anything I can do. I too used to be a frustrated reactor owner, we gotta stick together sometimes. That's the point of the thread and I am glad we were able to get you going again! So thanks for participating and giving it a shot, it is a lot to ask of someone to spend that kind of money. We now know what it takes to setup this reactor, whenever you change media again and clean the reactor getting a good stock photo of how it is setup will surely help others.

Keep us posted and post some pics of the thing setup

dburt520 · 12/25/2014, 11:41 PM

Sure, here are a few pics of my setup.

hkgar · 12/26/2014, 02:33 PM

[QUOTE=dburt520;23359524]Sure, here are a few pics of my setup.
/QUOTE]

Your set up looks great and glad it is working well.

Just one thing, chain that co2 tank to the wall to prevent accidentally knocking it over. If it fall and the to could come off and you have a rocket in the house. If you have ever had water on the floor you know the accidents happen regardless of best intentions.

dburt520 · 12/26/2014, 10:47 PM

I know I read about it the first time I read through the 23 pages... when the motor rollers roll from one another my they make a click sound. Is there a fix to this?

I am using masterflex ls24 tubing. I may need to go with a smaller tube to make the motor spin a little more, it is barely moving with the ls24.

12/23/2014, 03:58 PM	#527
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	If the budget for Dburt's pump is ok then I would go that route. It is an awesome setup! Otherwise they are slim pickings right now. __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.

12/23/2014, 04:44 PM	#528
muttley101 Never go full retard! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Sacramento Posts: 524	Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread Watson, Sorry for the confusion what I was talking about was the brass parts between your regulator and ap doser

12/23/2014, 07:44 PM	#531
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	Can you show another angle of the bottom of the lid? Particularly the acrylic tube glued to the lid. Do you have a sponge on the bottom or just the top? I would remove the top sponge, it is unnecessary. Save it for when the bottom wears out. What goes on the top clear bubble counter looking thing? I assume this is supposed to be the input. It will be rock solid in no time. I travel as well, I feel your pain. Should be setup like this but swap the two hoses on the top. In this image if I see what I think I see there is an acrylic tube glued to the lid in line with the output. At first it tricked my eyes into thinking it was off center but that was a reflection. This is causing the issue. It is trapping the gas inside the reactor the way a standpipe keeps water in the tank, same deal. Swapping the two tubes on the lid will give you a true lid output giving trapped gas a place to go. __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k. Last edited by Dino; 03/31/2018 at 05:13 AM. Reason: lots of edits :P

12/23/2014, 10:15 PM	#532
dburt520 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 370	Yes, first pic, above the blue "Tee", is the input line (I know, looks like a bubble counter...). I was holding the hose out in the pic just to show where it routed to and from. Yes, I have 2 foam pads. One on top, one on bottom. Yes there is an acrylic "tube" glued to the center "output" hole. I see what you mean by a deceiving shadow of some sort... new pic is here: It is not an open tube... it is a tube, but has a "cap" glued to the bottom of it with 2 small (1/8" roughly) holes drilled on each side of the tube. Mine is set up exactly like that picture shows, however you are saying that is incorrect? Wouldn't you want the gas to go to the top most place in the reactor (air rises, and that forces it back into the circulation pump). Last edited by Dino; 03/31/2018 at 05:13 AM.

12/23/2014, 10:25 PM	#535
dburt520 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 370	Sorry, realized my first pic was garbage. here are a few more: To answer your question, yes, the two holes are close to the cap. So, I will play with it and bring it back online. I am going to assume this is going to require a completely different feed rate, bubble size and bubble count, so it will take time to redial it back in. Going to have to set it back up when I will be home from work for a few days. Since I am starting over, is there a preferred media I should look into for a smaller reactor like this? Last edited by Dino; 03/31/2018 at 05:13 AM.

12/23/2014, 10:20 PM	#533
dburt520 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 370	I guess my question is, by doing this (swapping the hoses), I am essentially forcing any unused CO2 out of the reactor effluent line, is that correct?

12/23/2014, 10:28 PM	#536
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	If you are willing to give it a go I bet something as simple as swapping those two hoses fixes the issue. Once the media dissolves go with regular arm media. __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.

12/23/2014, 10:30 PM	#537
dburt520 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 370	Well, it makes complete sense because the "directions" (if thats what you want to call them) suggest to swap the hoses (as you suggested) in the beggining to bleed any air out of the reactor, and then when the air bubbles are out and it is not grinding air, power it down and swap the hoses around as seen in the bubble magus pic as well as mine.

12/23/2014, 10:32 PM	#538
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	Also... at minimum replace the effluent output connector to a push to fit. Those barbed fittings have way too small of an orifice for a calcium reactor. They can clog with a tiny grain. __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.

12/23/2014, 10:34 PM	#539
dburt520 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 370	There is no way to replace the fittings on the reactor unless i cut/drill/grind the old fittings out?

12/23/2014, 10:53 PM	#542
dburt520 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 370	They were glued in, but nothing that a press, drill press and tap couldn't fix! I am going to look into doing this to all of the fittings. Last edited by Dino; 03/31/2018 at 05:13 AM.

12/23/2014, 10:57 PM	#543
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	That would be the preferred solution. I don't know if I would even mess with the center one. I think it is pretty insignificant in the overall operation of the unit. __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.

12/23/2014, 11:00 PM	#544
dburt520 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 370	Should I do this to all of the fittings?

12/25/2014, 11:24 AM	#546
dburt520 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 370	tkeracer619, first let me say thank you for taking the time to help me out. I brought the reactor back online tuesday night, and must say so far it is operating great after making those changes. One thing I have noticed is that it is much more efficient (I guess that's the right word)? Prior to the changes I was running a bubble size of 5 psi, with a bubble every 4 seconds. It held the PH at 6.62 in my reactor, and ran 60ml/min through the masterflex. The controller never shut off with these settings. I went back to those settings when I set it back up but it was way to much for my tank... I am now down to 3 psi bubble size, 1 bubble every 9 seconds and 23ml/min through the masterflex. Even with this setting on the regulator it is still turning off and on every few hours. I keep a normal ALK/calcium level (8.5/415), and after a few adjustments this setting has kept my tank stable for almost 24 hours. Any thoughts on why that changed so drastically?

12/25/2014, 08:32 PM	#547
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	Yup, it's working correctly now These systems are pretty simple but when you start trapping air the whole thing goes to hell. Like you many have become frustraited and rightfully so. You spent a lot of money, more than some spend on their entire setup. I am glad it is running good now, hope it stays that way. I am glad to help and let me know if there is anything I can do. I too used to be a frustrated reactor owner, we gotta stick together sometimes. That's the point of the thread and I am glad we were able to get you going again! So thanks for participating and giving it a shot, it is a lot to ask of someone to spend that kind of money. We now know what it takes to setup this reactor, whenever you change media again and clean the reactor getting a good stock photo of how it is setup will surely help others. Keep us posted and post some pics of the thing setup __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k. Last edited by tkeracer619; 12/25/2014 at 08:39 PM.

12/25/2014, 11:41 PM	#548
dburt520 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 370	Sure, here are a few pics of my setup. Last edited by Dino; 03/31/2018 at 05:14 AM.

12/26/2014, 02:33 PM	#549
hkgar Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Dewitt MI Posts: 5,051	[QUOTE=dburt520;23359524]Sure, here are a few pics of my setup. /QUOTE] Your set up looks great and glad it is working well. Just one thing, chain that co2 tank to the wall to prevent accidentally knocking it over. If it fall and the to could come off and you have a rocket in the house. If you have ever had water on the floor you know the accidents happen regardless of best intentions. __________________ Gary 180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels

12/26/2014, 10:47 PM	#550
dburt520 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 370	I know I read about it the first time I read through the 23 pages... when the motor rollers roll from one another my they make a click sound. Is there a fix to this? I am using masterflex ls24 tubing. I may need to go with a smaller tube to make the motor spin a little more, it is barely moving with the ls24.