Reeflo/Sequence Skimmer Club

[JRaquatics]

Originally posted by jblaze
My plumbing looks to be OK. The water level is right at the point where the cup meets the body. I didn't get the memo about the O-ring. I received 2 clear ones (o-rings). Where is the 2nd one supposed to go? I'm feeding it with a Mag 5. I'm wondering if I need to clean the skimmer again. The skimmer overflows like right after you put some Aquamend in the tank. If I can fix my camers, I'll post pics.

Fully open and feeding 500gph your water level should still be right below the top of the reeflo letters. + aqua mend will make any skimmer, specially high airpull skimmer. Why are you using aquamend? There is no need to clean the skimmer. Besides the cup and venturi, I have not yet cleaned my skimmer or have the need to.

[jdeveaux]

I agree; any time I medicate my tank or dose anything my skimmer turns into a volcano. I always shut off the venturi when dosing the tank. You should do that regardless since you don't want the skimmer pulling all of the meds out of the water and or chemicals you just added. After a couple of hours I gradually turn the venturi back on to keep the water aerated, but its usually 24 hours before I'm back to full operation.

Regards,

[RokleM]

Actually you should turn off the dart and leave the feed pump running if you feel stopping your skimmer temporarily. Closing the venturi will cause unnecessary stress on the pump. The needlewheel is built to suck in water, and in turn struggles hard to move just the water when it's closed, forcing it to tighten on the shaft, pushing the seal, straining the motor, etc.

[jdeveaux]

Originally posted by RokleM
Actually you should turn off the dart and leave the feed pump running if you feel stopping your skimmer temporarily. Closing the venturi will cause unnecessary stress on the pump. The needlewheel is built to suck in water, and in turn struggles hard to move just the water when it's closed, forcing it to tighten on the shaft, pushing the seal, straining the motor, etc.

Good point I did not consider that. I will do that from now on.

Thank You,

[JRaquatics]

Yea you can actually bury the impeller into the back of the volute if you close the venturi while the pump is running.

[jblaze]

I'm not using Aquamend or any chemicals. The skimmer is like a volcano as if I had used them. I was wondering if there might be additional residue that I didn't clean out completely prior to use, thus requiring additional cleaning

[Ryan009]

Good afternoon folks!

Just a few questions from someone who is about to join your club.

1. I'm getting a 250 from a local source to put on my 210G & sump that I will soon be adding a 250G display to. Can I buy just the impeller and oversize cup from reef specialty?

2. What RPM is the Dart Gold running at? I am assuming it is worth it to upgrade to the gold?

3. As far as feeding the skimmer, I was thinking of oversizing the return pump and teeing all my misc. equipment off that (calc reactor, media reactor, skimmer, etc). I thought this might be the most efficient rather than running several individual pumps and eliminate some "junk" concerns that a similar "gravity" fed drain systems might have. Thoughts/concerns?

[JRaquatics]

Any kind of residue from manufacturing would cause the absence of a stable head of foam. Where is the top of the tee coming off of the output located? Also is the output submersed? Do you dose any chemicals, dechlorinator or planktons?

[jblaze]

Problem fixed, I had 2 pieces of PVC interchanged. What a difference an inch or 2 makes (thats what she said). Did you guys use the silicone grease on all the seals? Is it necessary?

[BreadmanMike]

Originally posted by Ryan009
Good afternoon folks!

Just a few questions from someone who is about to join your club.

1. I'm getting a 250 from a local source to put on my 210G & sump that I will soon be adding a 250G display to. Can I buy just the impeller and oversize cup from reef specialty?

2. What RPM is the Dart Gold running at? I am assuming it is worth it to upgrade to the gold?

3. As far as feeding the skimmer, I was thinking of oversizing the return pump and teeing all my misc. equipment off that (calc reactor, media reactor, skimmer, etc). I thought this might be the most efficient rather than running several individual pumps and eliminate some "junk" concerns that a similar "gravity" fed drain systems might have. Thoughts/concerns?

1 and 2) Yes you can get the cup and NW from Reef Specialty. I'd also recommend getting the Gold pump as well. I just put the Gold pump and new NW on a couple days ago and am very impressed with the difference. I'll be posting some before and after pics this weekend so everyone can see for themselves.

3) Teeing off your return is fine. JRaquatics is doing this. I'm sure he can help if you have any questions. I'm petty sure he has a few pics of how he did it earlier in this thread.

[Ryan009]

Thanks Mike!

If I don't feed off the return line (so that I can turn the return pump and skimmer on/off independently without effecting one another), what do you recommend for a feed pump?

[FishTruck]

Calculate your head pressure and shoot for something that will give about 500-600 gph. Ideally, put in a gate valve so you can dial it down if necessary.

I currently use a little giant 2-MDQ-SC with about 3 feet of head = 465 gph. I keep it wide open.

For submersible pumps, MAG5s seem popular.

[BreadmanMike]

I'm using a Quiet One 2200.

[GlassReef]

Hey all! Great thread with tons of info.

In case anyone is interested, I just posted a little step by step intstruction series in my build thread regarding replacing the stock Reeflo 250 NW with Reef Specialty's custom NW: Replacing NW

[spongebobby]

Here is a video testing out the Reef Specialty NW for the Reeflo200 . Seems to be working great.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v7...t=100_0819.flv

[trueperc]

Any advice on how to clean the venture?

PS the feed pump is working so much better.

[Ryan009]

Well, I just got my new toy!!!!

I have a stock Orca 250 and I have the NW and oversized collection cup from Mike at Reefspecialty.

When I bought the pieces from Mike, he mention I would probably need to drill out the air valve as well.

I'm very much a plug-and-play type of guy, so forgive my naive question. How exactly do I do this and does anyone have a recommended final diameter or drill bit size?

I'm assuming the idea is to cut the tip off of the barbed end, but then do I keep all 4 of barbed ridges or should I cut it down to a certain barb?

[drstupid]

Originally posted by trueperc
Any advice on how to clean the venture?

PS the feed pump is working so much better.

i use a dental tool, a pick with about a 45 degree bend at the tip, but i imagine a good stiff paper clip would do the same. with everything running as normal, unscrew the barbed connector and look in. the air path makes an annoying turn, a bent tool is easier to get around the turn. just poke away, the fragments will get sucked in if you can't get a big chunk out.

[jdeveaux]

Originally posted by trueperc
Any advice on how to clean the venture?

PS the feed pump is working so much better.

I flood mine every now and then. Turn of the pump with out closing the venturi let water flow into the air line and soak a bit then turn the pump back on.

Flushes it out every time.

[Ryan009]

Originally posted by Ryan009
Well, I just got my new toy!!!!

I have a stock Orca 250 and I have the NW and oversized collection cup from Mike at Reefspecialty.

When I bought the pieces from Mike, he mention I would probably need to drill out the air valve as well.

I'm very much a plug-and-play type of guy, so forgive my naive question. How exactly do I do this and does anyone have a recommended final diameter or drill bit size?

I'm assuming the idea is to cut the tip off of the barbed end, but then do I keep all 4 of barbed ridges or should I cut it down to a certain barb?

Bump.... any suggestions guys?

[JRaquatics]

Clip off the first two section of barbs. Then twist the valve apart and remove the oring from the upper half. Then drill a 1/4 inch hole through both ends and ball (make sure the ball is in the open position). The go back through the hole very carefully with a 5/16ths bit and make sure you are drilling straight so you don't ruin the seat for the oring.

[Ryan009]

THANKS!!!

I'll give it a try. Does the valve come apart easily? I don't have the piece in front of me.

[JRaquatics]

Yes, the two parts should come apart with little effort.

[Ryan009]

I started unpacking the skimmer and setting it up tonight.

What a wonderful unit! The only downside is the instructions are weak.

The skimmer came with three sections of straight pipe, small, medium, and large (actually they're all the same diameter, they only vary in length). Which length connects the skimmer base to the T?

Also, it comes with this nice valve with a barb on it that connects to a union on the skimmer base. I'm assuming this is just a drain for servicing?

And last but not least, there are two different sections of vinyl tubing. One appears to be semi-opaque silicon? The other is typical flexible vinyl tubing. Which one should be used for the air supply and which one should be used for the waste drain?

[FishTruck]

Ryan.

Put the short tube on your skimmer base. The "T" should sit no higher than the REEFLO logo on the skimmer. You may even need to shorten it (most people do). This will define the lower end of your ability to adjust the water level. If it is too high, the skimmer will constantly overflow. There is no risk to making it a little too short.

The beveled piece then goes straight up. Use this to restrict the outflow and this controls the water level in your skimmer. The long piece back to your sump.

The flexible tubing. The shorter piece goes from the silencer to your venturi. This is the "air supply". Make it as short as possible to minimize resistance to the air intake. If the lengths are the same... I would use the clear one on your waste cup so you can see if it is clogged more easily. I guess.

Hope that helps.