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#651 |
thread reader
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Minot, ND
Posts: 1,639
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i took a look at those swift, but i went with the new dosers at Bulk reef. i was going to go with drews(time tested and almost wish i picked them up) but felt like trying the new dosers. my RKL controls them and i couldnt be happier.
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You must use "Regular Clorox" Any scents like "New Fresh Scent Clorox" will kill all of your animals in a few minutes (don't ask) "Paul b" Current Tank Info: 84 gallon(60x18x18) tank, 40 breeder frag, 30 gallon lps |
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#652 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 14,022
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Yeah, I have a chance to pick this unit up for a VERY good price. Otherwise, I was planning on eventually purchasing the Profilux GHL 3 Pump Stand-alone Dosing Unit.
The shame of it is... I really just don't trust my AC3 anymore, and will probably start removing some of its responsibilities to try and minimize damage in the instance it would decide to go nuts again.
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"Enough light? Heck I could go barebottom and grow SPS in the stand!" - DiscoReefRover |
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#653 |
thread reader
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Minot, ND
Posts: 1,639
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i have a couple of friends who have done the same, monitors stats and turns lights on and off.
over the last couple of months your CA reactor hasnt been the nicest either and that just sucks imo honestly i would rather dose by hand, i really dont mind, but with school comming up i would miss a day here and there since we were always cutting it close to school and work my corals would pay for it.
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You must use "Regular Clorox" Any scents like "New Fresh Scent Clorox" will kill all of your animals in a few minutes (don't ask) "Paul b" Current Tank Info: 84 gallon(60x18x18) tank, 40 breeder frag, 30 gallon lps |
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#654 |
Moved On
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Ft Worth, Tx
Posts: 43,217
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A new toy, I see. A pH controller would be the better tool for your calcium reactor to make it more dependable, but the fact is your tank is pretty small and the reactor can quickly change water parameters.
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#655 | |
thread reader
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Minot, ND
Posts: 1,639
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Quote:
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You must use "Regular Clorox" Any scents like "New Fresh Scent Clorox" will kill all of your animals in a few minutes (don't ask) "Paul b" Current Tank Info: 84 gallon(60x18x18) tank, 40 breeder frag, 30 gallon lps |
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#656 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 14,022
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Quote:
I really have been disappointed with the calcium reactor setup from the get go. It's probably just too large for my system. I think a 2-part (3-part) dosing system is a much safer alternative at this point. I'm completely fed up with having to constantly fiddle with the calcium reactor.
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"Enough light? Heck I could go barebottom and grow SPS in the stand!" - DiscoReefRover |
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#657 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 2,205
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I am thinking I am in the same boat. I have a calcium reactor that I got as part of my tank deal, and I finally set it up, added media, and started running water through it, but I have never added the CO2 feed. Mainly because I already have some low pH issues but also because I am not confident in the accuracy of my pH controller in my RK2. If I had the money to buy a set of dosing pumps I think I would much rather automate the dosing of two part solution like Will16 does (Is that the Balling method that you have been talking about?).
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^ Click on my username and 'Visit Taqpol's Home Page!" to view my 220 gallon custom Miracles tank! -Alex |
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#658 |
Moved On
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Ft Worth, Tx
Posts: 43,217
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If you decide to abandon the reactor, you have two choices: Sell it or store it for a bigger tank in your future.
I can't imagine ever switching from a calcium reactor to dosing 2 or 3 part stuff with dosing pumps. The calcium reactor is a simple device that works great on bigger tanks. When I had my 29g and my 55g, I simply used B-Ionic daily. It got old, but that was prior to all the dosing pumps people have available now. The question is, how will you determine how much to add daily? Does the AC3 (that you have misgivings about) be the thing that turns it on and off? Or do you plan to run it on a separate timer? |
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#659 |
thread reader
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Minot, ND
Posts: 1,639
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some sites have calculators to give you an idea what you should be dosing but the best way is to do daily tests and adjust the amount given by the calculator for several weeks. with the BRS dosers they do about 1.0 to 1.1 ml per min(each one is different so you let it run with RO for 10 min so you know exactly how much it doses), so if you need 30 ml daily of part 1 you put your RK3 or timer to dose for 30 min and so on.
this system works best if you regularly(weekly) test(just like TJ) if you see your ALK rise or drop then you adjust it by the amount of min.
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You must use "Regular Clorox" Any scents like "New Fresh Scent Clorox" will kill all of your animals in a few minutes (don't ask) "Paul b" Current Tank Info: 84 gallon(60x18x18) tank, 40 breeder frag, 30 gallon lps |
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#660 | ||
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 14,022
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Quote:
Here is a good link: The Balling Method Quote:
![]() In order to figure out the proper dosing, I'd have to go manual for a little while. Then once I figure out the daily dosage, program the doser for that amount. The current dosers I am looking at have built in controllers... so the AC3 will not have to be involved.
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"Enough light? Heck I could go barebottom and grow SPS in the stand!" - DiscoReefRover |
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#661 | |
thread reader
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Minot, ND
Posts: 1,639
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Quote:
yeah for a tank 180 or bigger i would use a CA reactor for sure anything smaller then that it would depend on the demand of the 2 part, the BRS doser are only recomended for use up to 60 min at a time or 60 ml once it gets that large you have to break it up into different dosing times. They both have pros and cons i guess just like anything else in this hobby. as to TJs aquamedic question, hmm the aquamedic is a nice k4 and the proflux = vortex for dosers then again i run a BRS doser does that mean i have a mj1200? rofl the euros have some of the nicest dosers since they run the balling method
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You must use "Regular Clorox" Any scents like "New Fresh Scent Clorox" will kill all of your animals in a few minutes (don't ask) "Paul b" Current Tank Info: 84 gallon(60x18x18) tank, 40 breeder frag, 30 gallon lps |
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#662 | |
thread reader
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Minot, ND
Posts: 1,639
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Quote:
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You must use "Regular Clorox" Any scents like "New Fresh Scent Clorox" will kill all of your animals in a few minutes (don't ask) "Paul b" Current Tank Info: 84 gallon(60x18x18) tank, 40 breeder frag, 30 gallon lps |
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#663 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 14,022
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Quote:
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"Enough light? Heck I could go barebottom and grow SPS in the stand!" - DiscoReefRover |
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#664 |
thread reader
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Minot, ND
Posts: 1,639
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yeah i did that just for you, i thought you would like that rofl
i still run koralias, how old is the doser your looking at, i was just reading a thread today that both people using them went with something else.
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You must use "Regular Clorox" Any scents like "New Fresh Scent Clorox" will kill all of your animals in a few minutes (don't ask) "Paul b" Current Tank Info: 84 gallon(60x18x18) tank, 40 breeder frag, 30 gallon lps |
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#665 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Barrie, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,934
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TJ
I have been looking at the LM3 and the GHL standalone unit. After everything i think i will go with GHL unit. I know a bunch of people on RC that love their GHL standalone unit. They would never go back! As for the ca reactor. im not sure how you have yours hooked up and dailed in but i have mine hooked up to my AC3. At which point it turns on at 6.5 and off at 6.6 I have the bubble rate very slow so that the soleniod is open for the longest period of time possible. Combined with a good flow rate it drops the PH in the reactor slowly and thus prevents premature wear on the reef fanatic soleniod. Let me know if you need a hand Rob |
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#666 | ||
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 14,022
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Quote:
![]() Yeah, I did a little more digging, and am not happy with the reviews on them. I'm gonna just save some more pennies, and go with a better unit. Quote:
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#667 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 14,022
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Added some more flow to the tank today. I picked up a used Tunze 6025 off a fellow RC member, and placed it in the back left corner of the tank. Hopefully this will prevent excess food and deritus from settling back there from now on. Also, I think the refugium is beginning to die off, as I found an abundance of cheato strands throughout the display tank and entangled in my corals this morning.
As far as dosing goes... I'm almost finished with my 2nd week of Microbacter 7 dosing, and plan on administering the first dose of Vodka on Monday.
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"Enough light? Heck I could go barebottom and grow SPS in the stand!" - DiscoReefRover |
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#668 |
KING LEAR
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Cleveland Ohio area
Posts: 7,428
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Get ready for some red slime outbreak. Vodka always did that for me when I started it a few times.
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Coming up on 25 years in this hobby...That's a lot of skimmate Current Tank Info: Dsa 135 |
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#669 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 14,022
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The Microbacter 7 is supposed to outcompete Cyanobacteria and other forms of "bad" bacteria, which is also why it is recommended to begin the MB7 dosing prior to Vodka dosing. By starting the Microbacter 7 two weeks early, hopefully I will have jump started the "good" bacteria population enough that I won't experience any "bad" bacteria outbreaks. Usually when people notice outbreaks of cyano (due to Vodka dosing), they can get rid of it by simply upping the dosage of Microbacter 7, while reducing the amount of Vodka they are currently dosing.
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"Enough light? Heck I could go barebottom and grow SPS in the stand!" - DiscoReefRover |
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#670 |
KING LEAR
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Cleveland Ohio area
Posts: 7,428
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They didn't have MB7 when I tried vodka to help with the massive amounts of food when my tank was Non photo. Sounds like you've got it figured out though. Good luck
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Coming up on 25 years in this hobby...That's a lot of skimmate Current Tank Info: Dsa 135 |
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#671 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 3,084
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Hey TJ, long time no talkin to! Tank....of course looking fab!
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Rae N. She wasn't wicked, she only liked the shoes!!! Current Tank Info: 60 Gall Hex, 3 #3's, no fuge..........YET!!! |
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#672 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 14,022
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This week's water parameters.
![]() PO4 value is still skewed IMO. As the nuisance algae hasn't been dying off at all.
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"Enough light? Heck I could go barebottom and grow SPS in the stand!" - DiscoReefRover |
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#673 | ||
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 14,022
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Quote:
Quote:
![]() Thanks for the kind words. Hope all is well.
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"Enough light? Heck I could go barebottom and grow SPS in the stand!" - DiscoReefRover |
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#674 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 14,022
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FTS's from tonight
![]() ![]() Rommel's Rainbow Acro ![]() Montipora Setosa ![]() ORA Chip's Acropora ![]() Tyree True Undata ![]()
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"Enough light? Heck I could go barebottom and grow SPS in the stand!" - DiscoReefRover |
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#675 |
Editor-Reefkeeping mag
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Hi Tswifty,
Can i ask, what is that one coral way to the right in the fts above? It's next to the sps and directly above the acan. It's hard to tell. Is that a favia or an echinata or... other? It's really nice looking.
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~April Editor-Reefkeeping Magazine |
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