SC Aquariums Owners Thread

[GoGo98102]

I have no problem what you wanna do with your plumbing either. I just want people to know what a true Herbie or a Bean Animal is. Return pipe with no gate valve? Hahaha unless you are thinking of the old durso plumbing, perhaps you should do a little more researching.

[soulpatch]

WHat are you talking about? I have a gate on every line in my tank and just stated I gate off the return as opposed to the main siphon. If you are going to attempt to counter someone at least read first.

I have researched as well as discussed with Herbie. I have tried to meet up with him as well as he is not that far from me.

That said I have run all types of plumbing over the years. Durso, gurgle buster, herbie, and bean. I prefer bean due to it not being as fickle It truly is a set and forget since you have the third pipe. That said the herbie is just as safe and for me needs adjusted about once every six months.

You can see the multiple valves, manifold, and everything else in my build thread. I wont say you need to research per say but you should be leary and ready what one posts before you attempt to counter...



Regardless this is not the thread to discuss drain types or the specifics of such. Feel free to PM me should you wish to continue this back and forth so as to keep this thread clean.

[GoGo98102]

Let's just put it this way- we both have the SCA 150. I challenge you to run your syphoned hose/pipe on their 1" set up without a gate valve. Tell me how your overflow box or pump can keep up or not. Since you "have a gate in every single line" of your system, it's funny how you insisted that you don't need a gate for the syphoned return. Contradiction much?
In fact, you should never put a gate valve on your emergency pipe.

[GoGo98102]

This is the official site for the Herbie and Bean Animal. Have a read.

http://gmacreef.com/aquarium-overflo...d-bean-setups/

[soulpatch]

I don't get what you are asking. I have already stated I have a gate on my return that I use for tuning. So *** are you trying to get at?

You should never USE a valve on your emergency to tune though it is beneficial to have one what you want to change plumbing or disconnect a sump for a swap like I am about to do. Ever line from my tank has ability to be shut off at the base of the tank to maje any edits I need.

Where did I state that one does not need a valve for the return? I said I used one. You do not need a valve for the drain if you use one on your return instead to tune.

I believe in redundancy and ability to turn off any portion of my plumbing. I overuse valves and unions in my builds so I can take out a section. If you want to run more simplistic and not have valves and unions everywhere more power to you.

Seriously dude its like you are reading what you want to read and not what I am typing.


This is last I will post on this. PM me from here on about the plumbing. I will take any pics or vids you wish to show the system is running and silent. I will turn valves for you as well and speak SLOWLY so you can follow along if needed.



As for the opening in the canopy... 1 foot by 52 3/8" is the full opening. If the front door is open it eats about 2 inches of the opening as it overlaps some.

[GoGo98102]

Oh no. You are the one only read what you wanna read. You said you had every line gated, not me. You said you didn't need a gate on the syphoned pipe, not me. I said you needed one. I never said anything about the return line. Yes, return line needs a gate too but that was a given. Like I said, just read the official page. Maybe you will see how they work since they have pictures.

[soulpatch]

I sent you a PM. You can handle it through there. Having a valve on a line does not mean it is utilized for tuning. It is just smart planning and someone one should do no matter what drain system they chose to run.

[GoGo98102]

I think there is a misunderstanding there. There are 3 pipes in a Herbie system-
One pipe that connects the pump back to the DT is called return line.
One pipe that runs a full syphon from DT to sump is called the syphoned/drain line.
One pipe that either stays dry or trickles water to sump is called emergency.

This is also the last of what I would say on this matter.

[acer]

GoGo - Thank you for the link to the descriptions.

SOUL - Thank you for measuring the top - do you have the Walnut or the Cherry?

** I am so sorry for deflecting this great thread into what happened today**

Ok - lets get back to the Thread = Pictures and descriptions on everybody's builds.

[soulpatch]

I have the walnut. You can see pics in my build thread on here and I can take any pics you need if it will help you with your decision.

[kevin_e]

Anyone have a pic of the cabinet interior for the 50?

Is there room to mount to 5" mini reactors from BRS and 2 1.1 ml BRS dosing pumps?

[homer1475]

According to GMAC reef(the original setup guide for a herbie), you want a gate valve on the siphon and thats it. Also the emergency should just trickle so your not constantly adjusting the valve to keep the water level right at the top of the emergency.

This is exactly how I have mine plumbed.

Originally Posted by GMAC Reef

Perfectly balancing the water level until it remains totally still inside the overflow is difficult and time-consuming to achieve even with a Gate valve. Although it can appear stable and stay that way for a while, slight variations in the system such as changes in resistance of water through the plumbing will inherently change the rate of flow over hours or days. For example, the growth of slime in the pipes.

Simply by allowing a very slight trickle of water to enter through the emergency standpipe at all times, you sidestep the nearly impossible requirement of perfectly adjusting the valve. We are talking a trickle here — just enough to negate the need for constant fiddling, but still allowing the emergency drain ample capacity if needed.

And a word about a valve on the emergency

Originally Posted by GMAC Reefs

Emergency Drain Setup

This drain is what makes the system fail-safe in the event of the main valve standpipe getting clogged. It should be designed simply as a straight (as possible) unrestricted pipe going down into the sump and into the water, never joined with other pipes.
An open-ended standpipe will act as an alarm in a way. With only a small trickle of water seeping into it, it will make no noise. If there is a partial blockage of the siphon line, then the Emergency drain will start to take on more water and you will hear a loud hollow noise, alerting you that it needs attention. This is one reason that you should not try to muffle the Emergency drain.
You want the emergency to have max capacity, so most people leave it open and don’t use a strainer on this pipe.
Don’t install a valve on the emergency pipe — just don’t…no good can come of it.

http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-...method-basics/

[homer1475]

Sorry I was one page back and didn't realize it when I saw everyone arguing about the drains and posted the above.

[Devaji108]

Originally Posted by kevin_e

Anyone have a pic of the cabinet interior for the 50?

Is there room to mount to 5" mini reactors from BRS and 2 1.1 ml BRS dosing pumps?

I Am sure there is I think jayball has I build thread in that section. his tank is clean and sweet.
also join the SCA FB group there are looks of pics there of ppls 50s.

[pelphrey]

Luckily I stumbled across this thread even after 2 days of searching the web, it was hard to find! I was originally looking at the 120 gallon for the depth, but after looking at the 150 I am now leaning in that direction since it is 60x24x24. I plan to build my own stand so I can have the height and will use 2x6's for the top bracing. What size ply wood should be on top of the stand? I see where a lot of people use either 1/2 or 3/4.

I currently have a Kessil A160 and I plan to use it along with 2 360's. Will the Kessil mounts work with the Eurobracing?

Steve with SCA responded to a few of my questions yesterday and I was thrilled to hear that they are now using 3 holes in the overflow of both the 120 and the 150!

[davocean]

I always use 3/4" ply on top, you could use same for bottom or get away w/ 1/2" on the bottom if you choose to add a bottom panel, I always do, catches minor spills, adds strength to stand.
Not sure on the kessil mounts but I'm sure they can be made to fit one way or another.

[davocean]

Originally Posted by Devaji108

I Am sure there is I think jayball has I build thread in that section. his tank is clean and sweet.
also join the SCA FB group there are looks of pics there of ppls 50s.

I looked and there are like a ton of pages w/ the name SCA, and 2 groups I saw sc aquariums, but neither had much activity or photos

[pelphrey]

Originally Posted by davocean

I looked and there are like a ton of pages w/ the name SCA, and 2 groups I saw sc aquariums, but neither had much activity or photos

Not sure if this will work - https://m.facebook.com/groups/159618...urce=typeahead

They are SCA Aquariums on Facebook and it's a closed group. Steve will approve you.

[pelphrey]

Originally Posted by davocean

I always use 3/4" ply on top, you could use same for bottom or get away w/ 1/2" on the bottom if you choose to add a bottom panel, I always do, catches minor spills, adds strength to stand.
Not sure on the kessil mounts but I'm sure they can be made to fit one way or another.

Thanks! I saw in a previous thread you created that you're a carpenter. The last stand I built used the 4 screw strips, I'd like to use pocket screws this time. I actually thought about using 2x6 as the legs and putting wood filler in the seams and not skinning the stand. I'd like to counter sink magnets and make the front and 2 sides removable. What are your thoughts on pocket screws, as well as laying the 2x4 down on the bottom frame to insert the ply wood inside of the stand. Figure I'd gain a inch in height by doing that.

I plan to put 2 braces in the back of the stand and I'll cover the entire back with ply wood to reduce any noise with cutouts for power and ventilation.

Thanks in advance!

[davocean]

Nice, submitted, thank you for that link!

[davocean]

Well, 2x6 for legs would be a bit overkill and bulky IMO, I'd stick w/ the 2x4 L
As for filling seams and painting frame members, I have seen many do this but it just never seems to look very clean IMO and it's a lot of work.
Pocket screws work great, especially for face frame or narrower framework like 1x or ply.
I personally make 2 changes to rockets design, I do lay my bottom 2x flat and add a ply bottom below that, it helps tie all together and adds a great deal of strength, helps keep from racking.
The other thing I do different is a 2x4 cap on top of framing laid flat, and then my ply top on top of that.
I just started building stands this way long before seeing anyone elses design, but either will work fine.
if you cover the back completely to reduce sound keep in mind it may hold heat and moisture, so I'd at least add vents of some kind if you do that.

[pelphrey]

Originally Posted by davocean

Well, 2x6 for legs would be a bit overkill and bulky IMO, I'd stick w/ the 2x4 L
As for filling seams and painting frame members, I have seen many do this but it just never seems to look very clean IMO and it's a lot of work.
Pocket screws work great, especially for face frame or narrower framework like 1x or ply.
I personally make 2 changes to rockets design, I do lay my bottom 2x flat and add a ply bottom below that, it helps tie all together and adds a great deal of strength, helps keep from racking.
The other thing I do different is a 2x4 cap on top of framing laid flat, and then my ply top on top of that.
I just started building stands this way long before seeing anyone elses design, but either will work fine.
if you cover the back completely to reduce sound keep in mind it may hold heat and moisture, so I'd at least add vents of some kind if you do that.

The reason for 2x6 legs is to flush mount washers and attach magnets to a front panel that is removable. Figure with the width of the 2x6 it would look better. Would you recommend pocket screws for the legs or use the screw strip?

I would for sure have 2 openings on the back just as you stated. My wife wants the stand white, so that will be easy. White interior and exterior!

So your putting plywood underneath the stand, or just on the interior of the stand?

[davocean]

Well, it always ruffles feathers when I say this but personally I think magnets are a bummer for panels, they really don't hold a lot of weight and usually you end up doing a cleat of some kind anyway, and they don't line anything up straight w/out some kind of guide, and to mortise the front panel you have to be careful lining it up and not drill through the face.
Personally I use quick release hinges, which are much easier and cleaner, not expensive, or if you do want a panel a cleat, maybe a french cleat, maybe an aluminum channel cleat that is like a french, and possibly magnets to secure if you are dead set on magnets, some people just love that idea, I just happen to not, but to each their own.
Yes, I do a ply at very bottom, and I seal that really well so it holds spills

[acer]

Moving forward with my situation and Steve and I are awaiting some specifics from local acrylic overflow builders that will be making me a low profile coast to coast ( 4 feet long angled internal box x ? inches deep x ? inched high) with an external box ( 24 long x ? deep x ? high) for a Bean Animal plumbing scenario - Steve is going to Drill the back of the tank per my specifications with 2 holes that will accommodate 2 x 1.5 inch bulkheads, as soon as I find out exactly where the acrylic guy wants the holes put to match up with the holes in the internal and external boxes. We will omit the stock overflow completely, they will seal the bottom area that had the stock 3 holes with 3/8 inch glass ( I will request they use 12 mm after thinking about it, which is the same as the other parts of the tank) .

yes !! Thanks again to all that started this thread- I would not had any confidence in this company without you.

[915MANG]

Originally Posted by acer

Moving forward with my situation and Steve and I are awaiting some specifics from local acrylic overflow builders that will be making me a low profile coast to coast ( 4 feet long angled internal box x ? inches deep x ? inched high) with an external box ( 24 long x ? deep x ? high) for a Bean Animal plumbing scenario - Steve is going to Drill the back of the tank per my specifications with 2 holes that will accommodate 2 x 1.5 inch bulkheads, as soon as I find out exactly where the acrylic guy wants the holes put to match up with the holes in the internal and external boxes. We will omit the stock overflow completely, they will seal the bottom area that had the stock 3 holes with 3/8 inch glass ( I will request they use 12 mm after thinking about it, which is the same as the other parts of the tank) .

yes !! Thanks again to all that started this thread- I would not had any confidence in this company without you.

Coast to Coast is sweet!