Reeflo/Sequence Skimmer Club - Page 28

FishTruck · 12/24/2007, 09:31 PM

Guys. I must qualify this post. I am only here on xmas eve waiting for the kids to fall asleep before I put the presents under the tree. My wife is busy making milk for the newborn. Visiting Mom (mine) is wrapping gifts. Also, I am going up from a Aqua C urchin so this kind of skimmer is totally new to me.

Anotherminreal - right. I know that silicone works great on threaded connections. I use this on bulkheads without fear. The hot pump makes me a little hesitant. Thanks for the input. If I have to use silicone, I am 82% sure it will be fine.

RokleM - I am pretty sure that the pump got hot because it was trying to spin against freshwater. I am not sure if the air intake was open. The pump is in basically an open room and the ambient temp in the basement is about 60 degrees right now... so it is not a ventillation issue. I was fishing for someone who ran this in f.w. in a new build situation like mine.

Reefartist. I found the 560 double thick teflon. Will try again. Fifth time is a charm!

Yitman. I assumed the venturi had to be straight up. If it can point down.... I can just screw this thing on tighter and my problem is solved. Are you saying it does not have to be up?

THanks all. If you are reading this in Christmas eve or day, MERRY CHRISTMAS! Now, get back to your loved ones!

Ryan.

ReefArtist · 12/24/2007, 10:55 PM

If it's not in the up position you will need to purchase new hose - if the venturi is pointed on the side my hose wasn't long enough. The double thick tape is great - good luck!

hurleycr · 12/25/2007, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by FishTruck
Guys. I must qualify this post. I am only here on xmas eve waiting for the kids to fall asleep before I put the presents under the tree. My wife is busy making milk for the newborn. Visiting Mom (mine) is wrapping gifts. Also, I am going up from a Aqua C urchin so this kind of skimmer is totally new to me.

Anotherminreal - right. I know that silicone works great on threaded connections. I use this on bulkheads without fear. The hot pump makes me a little hesitant. Thanks for the input. If I have to use silicone, I am 82% sure it will be fine.

RokleM - I am pretty sure that the pump got hot because it was trying to spin against freshwater. I am not sure if the air intake was open. The pump is in basically an open room and the ambient temp in the basement is about 60 degrees right now... so it is not a ventillation issue. I was fishing for someone who ran this in f.w. in a new build situation like mine.

Reefartist. I found the 560 double thick teflon. Will try again. Fifth time is a charm!

Yitman. I assumed the venturi had to be straight up. If it can point down.... I can just screw this thing on tighter and my problem is solved. Are you saying it does not have to be up?

THanks all. If you are reading this in Christmas eve or day, MERRY CHRISTMAS! Now, get back to your loved ones!

Ryan.

Yep new tank here.....

Yes it ran a bit "warmer" but def. NOT HOT in fresh water. However it will cook an egg if you let it run for too long with the air valve closed, fresh water or SW. Even like three minutes or so.

Yes your air valve must not point up, it will kink the hose, kinda to the side. You are aware that piece comes apart correct. Cuz I wasn't and it made it a pain, after I figured out hey this thing is snug but this thing isn't. Made my life loads easier. Anyway couple of layers of normal teflon, snug up the MPT. Slip the elbow on, then put in the little screw thingy and your done.....

hope it helps, and merry christmas.

FishTruck · 12/25/2007, 07:44 PM

Success. I used the thick teflon tape with TFE paste and screwed it in about 30 degrees further than before. No leaks! With the air feed open, the pump is running cool for five hours now.

Greg 45 · 12/25/2007, 07:55 PM

Has anyone purchased the Baldor motor upgrade. These motors run cooler than the AO Smith motors. I have the baldor on a bigger home made skimmer and it runs around 225 deg. The AO smith motor would overheat and shut off. I was waiting for everyone to statr complaning. Why not call SPAZZ . He makes excelent shimmers.
LOL

anothermineral · 12/25/2007, 08:35 PM

Does anyone know where to purchase relplacement o-rings for the 250 neck?

wizsmaster · 12/25/2007, 08:35 PM

I've upgraded to a spazz Volcano w/ the baldor motor - this motor runs sooo much cooler! very nice skimmer, the diffuser plate & chamber is removable, drain in the box, main chamber comes off, carbon lid, wet-neck, ozone input, twist neck.. ... very nice skimmer all in all.

ReefArtist · 12/26/2007, 07:22 PM

anothermineral - I'm running mine without one on and it seems to be fine. I forgot to put on when I first started and never put it on.

anothermineral · 12/26/2007, 09:50 PM

ReefArtist,

Are you sure we're talking about the same thing? You don't have an o-ring between the skimmer body and the head/neck, it's just an acrylic to acrylic flange? I would think you'd be leaking all over the place.

ReefArtist · 12/27/2007, 04:48 AM

Yes it's sitting on my table right now - LOL. I'll double check in about 1/2 hour when my lights come on. Unless my LFS gave me an extra it is not on and it's never leaked.

ReefArtist · 12/27/2007, 06:35 AM

Just checked and it is not on the skimmer. I believe the reason it's really not required is because it's not under pressure. I just cleaned the cup put the cup back on without the o-ring hand tightened the screws (FYI - I'm a woman without real strong hand strength) so I really don't think it's needed.

anothermineral - If you would like mine, PM me your address and I'll send it your way. I have a place locally I can get these if needed in the future.

FishTruck · 12/28/2007, 10:31 PM

OK. Here it is. I did the gate valve modification. As you can see, I "americanized" the plumbing right off the union. Not as pretty as the grey metric PVC, but, easy to see what I did.

I also used a John Guest 1/4 inch insert fitting to put into the pump's drain valve. Now I have an easy way to drain the skimmer.

With gravity feeding, I can keep the water level at the nylon screws with the gate valve wide open for maximum flow. I have no idea what the flow going in might be.

Hope it works!

ReefArtist · 12/29/2007, 06:04 AM

Looks great! I'm controlling my flow into the skimmer but not out - I have a feeling that might be the problem I'm having and looking at yours I think I need to also control the flow going out. I'm getting a "flushing" as the skimmer is working. All the water rushes out and the water level drops fast. Here is my setup now:

Control on the intake but not on the output into the skimmer. This is being feed off one of my return pumps.

ichthyman · 12/29/2007, 06:23 AM

Quote:

All the water rushes out and the water level drops fast.

I bet you're creating an effective siphon with the exhaust plumbing. Can you post pictures of the rest of the plumbing?

ReefArtist · 12/29/2007, 06:52 AM

Man - you are everywhere

.

I don't have one right now - but that's what I thought was happening so I removed the lower half on the pipe - it was under water and for a time it fixed the probem. Yesterday it reappeared but the pipe is about 5 inches above the water in the sump area. Hope that makes sense - I'll be seeing you today and maybe we can talk about it. I'll get some pics of how it's plumbed.

ReefArtist · 12/29/2007, 06:54 AM

Would it be that my pipe is to long? It's about 5 - 6 ft between the skimmer output to the sump. It has a 90 that drops into my sump (drop is about 2' or so).

anothermineral · 12/29/2007, 07:36 AM

ReefArtist,

I know on my old AquaC EV-180, the length of the output pipe was a factor in performance. On that skimmer, they recommend less than 18". If you wanted to extend pass 18", they recommended venting the output.

On the 250's though, given the larger diameter plumbing and larger overall flow, I would think larger distances would be fine. However, 6' might be a bit much depending on your total flow through the skimmer and the pitch/angle of the output pipe. Strive for the least amount of resistance on the return leg.

JRaquatics · 12/29/2007, 12:48 PM

Reefartist, the output realy should be on a slope to help push the remainder of the air with the water force into the sump. Make sure that the output also is never submerged unless you place a T for the air to escape.

Here is a pic of my output, I am not going as far as you but you can see I have 3 elbows on my output but I have mine at a great slope.

This is the output entering the sump.

JRaquatics · 12/29/2007, 12:51 PM

And an update of the Orca 200. Still breaking in, my guess it should be fully broken in by the end of next week. The bubbles get smaller by the day. This skimmer is a beast. I have a very small bioload at this time since my tank is maturing after the cycle.

First cup of skimate, 3 days worth.

RokleM · 12/29/2007, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ReefArtist
Would it be that my pipe is to long? It's about 5 - 6 ft between the skimmer output to the sump. It has a 90 that drops into my sump (drop is about 2' or so).

Yes. I've been having performance issues since I installed my new sump a month or so back. Mine is at a downward angle running about 5 feet. I was running about 500 GPH through it, and it was creating a suction removing more water from the skimmer than it should. I solved the issue for now by going back down to about 250-300 GPH.

FishTruck · 12/29/2007, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ReefArtist
Would it be that my pipe is to long? It's about 5 - 6 ft between the skimmer output to the sump. It has a 90 that drops into my sump (drop is about 2' or so).

I think controlling by feed and exhaust is good. This way, you can have the optimal water level with many different feed rates. The way you have it, you can only have the optimal level at one feed rate. In other words, you control the inlet to adjust the feed rate, and control the resistance at the outlet to control the water level.

The long horizontal run is what I noticed. My horizontal run is about 20 in it then hits a 45 deg bend. seems o.k.

Also, this is the first time I have used a skimmer like this... so... take my opinion as one from a rookie.

I really like your valve run to add on accessories later!

Lunchbucket · 12/29/2007, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by FishTruck
OK. Here it is. I did the gate valve modification. As you can see, I "americanized" the plumbing right off the union. Not as pretty as the grey metric PVC, but, easy to see what I did.

I also used a John Guest 1/4 inch insert fitting to put into the pump's drain valve. Now I have an easy way to drain the skimmer.

That is a great idea w/ the JG fittings and valve on the drain of the pump. I'm gonna do that on my CL pump when I set it up so then I can drain it easily.

Lunchbucket

ReefArtist · 12/29/2007, 10:06 PM

Thanks for all the information! This is my first large skimmer and let me tell you - I love it! I might have to adjust the angle and put a little more slope into it. I really do think I need to put a valve on the output. Just like you said FishTruck - I only have one adjustment. If I slow it down the water level isn't high enough but the flushing stops. If I put a valve on - that should raise the level just enough and I hoping not cause a backup - we'll see.

anothermineral - Hope you received your gasket today - if not it'll be there Monday. Good luck and I hope it works.

Yes - excellent idea with the fittings to drain the skimmer. I'm going to add that on.

Jetdrvr · 12/31/2007, 01:49 PM

I just joined the club. I ordered mine today from Mike at Reefspecialty.com, I bought it with the future in mind when I get my 240-300 (not sure which yet) later this year. For know it will overskim my 125.

JRaquatics · 12/31/2007, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jetdrvr
I just joined the club. I ordered mine today from Mike at Reefspecialty.com, I bought it with the future in mind when I get my 240-300 (not sure which yet) later this year. For know it will overskim my 125.

Welcome to the club. You just got yourself an awsome skimmer. You will be very pleased.

12/24/2007, 09:31 PM	#676
FishTruck Premium Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Downers Grove, IL Posts: 805	Guys. I must qualify this post. I am only here on xmas eve waiting for the kids to fall asleep before I put the presents under the tree. My wife is busy making milk for the newborn. Visiting Mom (mine) is wrapping gifts. Also, I am going up from a Aqua C urchin so this kind of skimmer is totally new to me. Anotherminreal - right. I know that silicone works great on threaded connections. I use this on bulkheads without fear. The hot pump makes me a little hesitant. Thanks for the input. If I have to use silicone, I am 82% sure it will be fine. RokleM - I am pretty sure that the pump got hot because it was trying to spin against freshwater. I am not sure if the air intake was open. The pump is in basically an open room and the ambient temp in the basement is about 60 degrees right now... so it is not a ventillation issue. I was fishing for someone who ran this in f.w. in a new build situation like mine. Reefartist. I found the 560 double thick teflon. Will try again. Fifth time is a charm! Yitman. I assumed the venturi had to be straight up. If it can point down.... I can just screw this thing on tighter and my problem is solved. Are you saying it does not have to be up? THanks all. If you are reading this in Christmas eve or day, MERRY CHRISTMAS! Now, get back to your loved ones! Ryan. __________________ Department of Redundancy Department. Current Tank Info: Established 2009 - 300 gal acrylic mostly sps, radion LEDs

12/25/2007, 08:35 PM	#681
anothermineral Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: NJ Posts: 232	Does anyone know where to purchase relplacement o-rings for the 250 neck? __________________ Live and Learn

12/26/2007, 09:50 PM	#684
anothermineral Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: NJ Posts: 232	ReefArtist, Are you sure we're talking about the same thing? You don't have an o-ring between the skimmer body and the head/neck, it's just an acrylic to acrylic flange? I would think you'd be leaking all over the place. __________________ Live and Learn

12/29/2007, 07:36 AM	#692
anothermineral Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: NJ Posts: 232	ReefArtist, I know on my old AquaC EV-180, the length of the output pipe was a factor in performance. On that skimmer, they recommend less than 18". If you wanted to extend pass 18", they recommended venting the output. On the 250's though, given the larger diameter plumbing and larger overall flow, I would think larger distances would be fine. However, 6' might be a bit much depending on your total flow through the skimmer and the pitch/angle of the output pipe. Strive for the least amount of resistance on the return leg. __________________ Live and Learn

12/24/2007, 10:55 PM	#677
ReefArtist Moved On Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Largo, FL Posts: 2,703	If it's not in the up position you will need to purchase new hose - if the venturi is pointed on the side my hose wasn't long enough. The double thick tape is great - good luck!

12/25/2007, 07:44 PM	#679
FishTruck Premium Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Downers Grove, IL Posts: 805	Success. I used the thick teflon tape with TFE paste and screwed it in about 30 degrees further than before. No leaks! With the air feed open, the pump is running cool for five hours now.

12/25/2007, 07:55 PM	#680
Greg 45 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Bayonne,N.J. Posts: 1,159	Has anyone purchased the Baldor motor upgrade. These motors run cooler than the AO Smith motors. I have the baldor on a bigger home made skimmer and it runs around 225 deg. The AO smith motor would overheat and shut off. I was waiting for everyone to statr complaning. Why not call SPAZZ . He makes excelent shimmers. LOL

12/25/2007, 08:35 PM	#682
wizsmaster Moved On Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Ft. Myers, SW FL - USA Posts: 1,579	I've upgraded to a spazz Volcano w/ the baldor motor - this motor runs sooo much cooler! very nice skimmer, the diffuser plate & chamber is removable, drain in the box, main chamber comes off, carbon lid, wet-neck, ozone input, twist neck.. ... very nice skimmer all in all.

12/26/2007, 07:22 PM	#683
ReefArtist Moved On Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Largo, FL Posts: 2,703	anothermineral - I'm running mine without one on and it seems to be fine. I forgot to put on when I first started and never put it on.

12/27/2007, 04:48 AM	#685
ReefArtist Moved On Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Largo, FL Posts: 2,703	Yes it's sitting on my table right now - LOL. I'll double check in about 1/2 hour when my lights come on. Unless my LFS gave me an extra it is not on and it's never leaked.

12/27/2007, 06:35 AM	#686
ReefArtist Moved On Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Largo, FL Posts: 2,703	Just checked and it is not on the skimmer. I believe the reason it's really not required is because it's not under pressure. I just cleaned the cup put the cup back on without the o-ring hand tightened the screws (FYI - I'm a woman without real strong hand strength) so I really don't think it's needed. anothermineral - If you would like mine, PM me your address and I'll send it your way. I have a place locally I can get these if needed in the future.

12/28/2007, 10:31 PM	#687
FishTruck Premium Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Downers Grove, IL Posts: 805	OK. Here it is. I did the gate valve modification. As you can see, I "americanized" the plumbing right off the union. Not as pretty as the grey metric PVC, but, easy to see what I did. I also used a John Guest 1/4 inch insert fitting to put into the pump's drain valve. Now I have an easy way to drain the skimmer. With gravity feeding, I can keep the water level at the nylon screws with the gate valve wide open for maximum flow. I have no idea what the flow going in might be. Hope it works!

12/29/2007, 06:04 AM	#688
ReefArtist Moved On Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Largo, FL Posts: 2,703	Looks great! I'm controlling my flow into the skimmer but not out - I have a feeling that might be the problem I'm having and looking at yours I think I need to also control the flow going out. I'm getting a "flushing" as the skimmer is working. All the water rushes out and the water level drops fast. Here is my setup now: Control on the intake but not on the output into the skimmer. This is being feed off one of my return pumps.

12/29/2007, 06:52 AM	#690
ReefArtist Moved On Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Largo, FL Posts: 2,703	Man - you are everywhere . I don't have one right now - but that's what I thought was happening so I removed the lower half on the pipe - it was under water and for a time it fixed the probem. Yesterday it reappeared but the pipe is about 5 inches above the water in the sump area. Hope that makes sense - I'll be seeing you today and maybe we can talk about it. I'll get some pics of how it's plumbed.

12/29/2007, 06:54 AM	#691
ReefArtist Moved On Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Largo, FL Posts: 2,703	Would it be that my pipe is to long? It's about 5 - 6 ft between the skimmer output to the sump. It has a 90 that drops into my sump (drop is about 2' or so).

12/29/2007, 12:48 PM	#693
JRaquatics Awaiting Email Confirmation Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: On RC Posts: 3,609	Reefartist, the output realy should be on a slope to help push the remainder of the air with the water force into the sump. Make sure that the output also is never submerged unless you place a T for the air to escape. Here is a pic of my output, I am not going as far as you but you can see I have 3 elbows on my output but I have mine at a great slope. This is the output entering the sump.

12/29/2007, 12:51 PM	#694
JRaquatics Awaiting Email Confirmation Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: On RC Posts: 3,609	And an update of the Orca 200. Still breaking in, my guess it should be fully broken in by the end of next week. The bubbles get smaller by the day. This skimmer is a beast. I have a very small bioload at this time since my tank is maturing after the cycle. First cup of skimate, 3 days worth.

12/29/2007, 10:06 PM	#698
ReefArtist Moved On Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Largo, FL Posts: 2,703	Thanks for all the information! This is my first large skimmer and let me tell you - I love it! I might have to adjust the angle and put a little more slope into it. I really do think I need to put a valve on the output. Just like you said FishTruck - I only have one adjustment. If I slow it down the water level isn't high enough but the flushing stops. If I put a valve on - that should raise the level just enough and I hoping not cause a backup - we'll see. anothermineral - Hope you received your gasket today - if not it'll be there Monday. Good luck and I hope it works. Yes - excellent idea with the fittings to drain the skimmer. I'm going to add that on.

12/31/2007, 01:49 PM	#699
Jetdrvr Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Howland OH Posts: 445	I just joined the club. I ordered mine today from Mike at Reefspecialty.com, I bought it with the future in mind when I get my 240-300 (not sure which yet) later this year. For know it will overskim my 125.