AquaIllumination PAR Measurements

[Falcao]

just incredible. great job Tom

[CalmSeasQuest]

Originally Posted by Falcao

just incredible. great job Tom

Thanks Falcao,

The most amazing part to me is the amount of abuse this tank's inhabitants have suffered at my hand over the past year. Constant lighting changes (and abuses), changes in dosing and water parameters have taken a heavy toll. It's a testament to the adaptability of Corals.

I'm looking forward to seeing what happens once I get to a point where I can leave the darn thing alone.

This thread has been nominated by Reef Central for November's Thread of The Month. Please take a moment and Cast Your Vote! - Thanks!

[CalmSeasQuest]

Here's a great Kudo for everyone that has contributed to this thread -

C2 and the folks at AquaIllumination have just added a blog post and direct link to this thread on the AI website!

You can view it at http://www.aquaillumination.com/

Thanks to everyone that's helped make this a great resource on LED lighting!

[djkms]

Hello all. A couple of things.

For those who want to get by with purchasing the minimum amount of units (less the recommended) you will have dark areas even raising the units higher and even with the 70 degree optics.

I have a 6ft tank and my 3 units are turned sideways. The front to back doesn't really seem like a issue but I do have darker areas between the units from left to right. My fixture is about 14" from the waterline. I believe 4 units would be a minimum for a 6ft tank but 6 units would be ideal. As soon as I get my income taxes back I will buy another 3 units. I don't have a par meter but the shaded areas near the top of the water are noticeable.

2nd thing: Is anyone else having troubles with their VDM? I initially had trouble setting up my VDM which Ken (Kenargo) spent a couple of hours helping me on. We got it working on Monday night. Tuesday my Blues would not turn on. I called Curt at Neptune and he fixed that. Now Wednesday rolled around and my White outlet is stuck ON. I sent in a support ticket to Neptune last night. Hopefully my issue is just isolated to me and they can just send me another unit. I posted more about my troubles here if anyone is interested.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1927925

O one last thing. You can use the AI rails mounted sideways with just 1 rail

[MedRed]

I'm going back to the original firmware. I can not figure out how to get the controller to do what my schedule says. there seems to be no rhyme or reason.

[CalmSeasQuest]

Originally Posted by MedRed

I'm going back to the original firmware. I can not figure out how to get the controller to do what my schedule says. there seems to be no rhyme or reason.

MedRed,

If you'd like to post your ramping schedule using the same format I used previously (on-time, ramp duration, final power setting....) I'll be happy to assist.

Just tell us what you're trying to set and we'll get it rocking

[MedRed]

cool. I'll have to do it this weekend

[Logzor]

Originally Posted by CalmSeasQuest

Thanks Falcao,

The most amazing part to me is the amount of abuse this tank's inhabitants have suffered at my hand over the past year. Constant lighting changes (and abuses), changes in dosing and water parameters have taken a heavy toll. It's a testament to the adaptability of Corals.

I'm looking forward to seeing what happens once I get to a point where I can leave the darn thing alone.

This thread has been nominated by Reef Central for November's Thread of The Month. Please take a moment and Cast Your Vote! - Thanks!

The trick is to go on vacation. Whenever I leave for a week, I come back and my corals look better than when I had left! My tank sitter just drops food in the tank and doesn't touch anything else

[reefsurfing]

Originally Posted by MedRed

I'm going back to the original firmware. I can not figure out how to get the controller to do what my schedule says. there seems to be no rhyme or reason.

The issue that comes up in the 3.0B software occurs when you dont have your manual timer set to 0% blue/white values. For some reason there is a glitch that causes those manual values to over ride your timed values. Simply set your manual timers to 0% and 0% and your problem shouldbe solved.

[CalmSeasQuest]

Originally Posted by djkms

Hello all. A couple of things.

For those who want to get by with purchasing the minimum amount of units (less the recommended) you will have dark areas even raising the units higher and even with the 70 degree optics.

I have a 6ft tank and my 3 units are turned sideways. The front to back doesn't really seem like a issue but I do have darker areas between the units from left to right. My fixture is about 14" from the waterline. I believe 4 units would be a minimum for a 6ft tank but 6 units would be ideal. As soon as I get my income taxes back I will buy another 3 units. I don't have a par meter but the shaded areas near the top of the water are noticeable.

2nd thing: Is anyone else having troubles with their VDM? I initially had trouble setting up my VDM which Ken (Kenargo) spent a couple of hours helping me on. We got it working on Monday night. Tuesday my Blues would not turn on. I called Curt at Neptune and he fixed that. Now Wednesday rolled around and my White outlet is stuck ON. I sent in a support ticket to Neptune last night. Hopefully my issue is just isolated to me and they can just send me another unit. I posted more about my troubles here if anyone is interested.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1927925

O one last thing. You can use the AI rails mounted sideways with just 1 rail

Sorry you're having problems with the VDM. I think there are several with issues. Hopefully Curt will get it quickly resolved.

Thanks for sharing the pic - it's a big help for new users trying to decide how many and how to mount. Great Job on the transverse mounting! I wasn't sure the hanging kit would work using a single rail. You just attached both down lines to the end?

A simple, nice and neat install

[geo11]

Originally Posted by djkms

Hello all. A couple of things.

For those who want to get by with purchasing the minimum amount of units (less the recommended) you will have dark areas even raising the units higher and even with the 70 degree optics.

I have a 6ft tank and my 3 units are turned sideways. The front to back doesn't really seem like a issue but I do have darker areas between the units from left to right. My fixture is about 14" from the waterline. I believe 4 units would be a minimum for a 6ft tank but 6 units would be ideal. As soon as I get my income taxes back I will buy another 3 units. I don't have a par meter but the shaded areas near the top of the water are noticeable.

2nd thing: Is anyone else having troubles with their VDM? I initially had trouble setting up my VDM which Ken (Kenargo) spent a couple of hours helping me on. We got it working on Monday night. Tuesday my Blues would not turn on. I called Curt at Neptune and he fixed that. Now Wednesday rolled around and my White outlet is stuck ON. I sent in a support ticket to Neptune last night. Hopefully my issue is just isolated to me and they can just send me another unit. I posted more about my troubles here if anyone is interested.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1927925

O one last thing. You can use the AI rails mounted sideways with just 1 rail

Do you have any FTS? I've got a 6 foot standard 220 gallon, and was thinking I could get away with 4 modules raised and mounted in the traditional matter. Anyone have any input?

[djkms]

CSQ - yep, just screwed in both lines into the one hole.

Geo - Mounted traditionally I highly doubt 4 will do, I would guess at least 5

If I remember I will get a FTS tonight and post it

Edit: Just found a FTS on my phone, crappy picture but it still gives you a idea of the shaded areas with my fixture. I will still get a better FTS for you tonight.

[CalmSeasQuest]

Originally Posted by geo11

Do you have any FTS? I've got a 6 foot standard 220 gallon, and was thinking I could get away with 4 modules raised and mounted in the traditional matter. Anyone have any input?

I just helped a friend hang 3 traditionally mounted AIs over a 220 and it was no where near enough. I think 4 on 220 would be the very minimum and only if you can accept shadow areas and very low substrate PAR.

Originally Posted by djkms

CSQ - yep, just screwed in both lines into the one hole.

Geo - Mounted traditionally I highly doubt 4 will do, I would guess at least 5

If I remember I will get a FTS tonight and post it

Edit: Just found a FTS on my phone, crappy picture but it still gives you a idea of the shaded areas with my fixture. I will still get a better FTS for you tonight.

It's a bit hard to get a sense of how much light there is (brightness) from the photos, but It appears you have hot-spots directly below each AI (are these SOL Whites or Blues? and are you running them at 100%?)

With your tank dimension, It *looks* like you could improve the coverage and minimize the shadows by raising the AIs higher. I agree more units would be ideal, but it might be an improvement. Access to a PAR meter would help as I'd be a bit concerned about PAR on the bottom, but I can't quite make out whats down there. If you don't have anything but low-PAR corals on the substrate - it's a moot point.

I'd try raising them another 3"~6" and see the results. With your tank dimensions, you should have enough PAR to make it work.

[djkms]

That picture was taken when I first got the unit. I have the SOL Blues with 70degree optics. The fixture is 14" above the water now. My tank is only a couple of months old, the only coral I have now is a torch which sits on the substrate. He is doing great and fully extends no problem. I run the fixture now at 50% blue 50% white.

I would love to use a PAR meter I just cant see dishing out $300+ for a good one. No clue how my PAR is now. As I get more corals I will probably raise the unit higher and add intensity. For now though I really only have to worry about my torch which is doing good. I actually don't really mind the "spotlighting" for now. By the time I get the tank stocked to the point I need to adjust the lights more i will probably already have bought more AI units.

[CalmSeasQuest]

Originally Posted by djkms

That picture was taken when I first got the unit. I have the SOL Blues with 70degree optics. The fixture is 14" above the water now. My tank is only a couple of months old, the only coral I have now is a torch which sits on the substrate. He is doing great and fully extends no problem. I run the fixture now at 50% blue 50% white.

I would love to use a PAR meter I just cant see dishing out $300+ for a good one. No clue how my PAR is now. As I get more corals I will probably raise the unit higher and add intensity. For now though I really only have to worry about my torch which is doing good. I actually don't really mind the "spotlighting" for now. By the time I get the tank stocked to the point I need to adjust the lights more i will probably already have bought more AI units.

If your Torch is happy on the substrate at 50% (it's probably around 125PAR.) I'd estimate your running between 325~375PAR in the hot-spots on the top of the aquascaping. You've got PLENTY of additional power available enabling you to raise them higher. I doubt you'll need many more, *maybe* one more for coverage only - and only if the higher-up shadows bother you. Otherwise you've got plenty of PAR.

Spend the money on corals instead

[drtrash]

Reef, are you talking about the AI beta or other?

Do all AI owners have some "hot spot", I have raise mine 12" and still has a stronger light blob about 4-5" dia at bottom of tank. Not a big issue for me because aquascaping is in multiple fingers rather than one wall. Running 65% B & 45%W and still is a ton of light, according to PAR meter.

[Dark_Reef]

Originally Posted by drtrash

Reef, are you talking about the AI beta or other?

Do all AI owners have some "hot spot", I have raise mine 12" and still has a stronger light blob about 4-5" dia at bottom of tank. Not a big issue for me because aquascaping is in multiple fingers rather than one wall. Running 65% B & 45%W and still is a ton of light, according to PAR meter.

Yes, anyone that does not either does not have a PAR meter or is in serious denial.

It all depends on what you are trying to do. Some setups could actually benefit. I personally want a very even look and even par over my tank. I figure that the sun gives even coverage so that is what I want.

I ordered my 70 optics and hopefully will fix mine.

All 6 of my lights are between 16" and 18" above the 2 tanks to try to spread the par but it still have hot spots under the 40s. And I am talking a 200 to 400 PAR difference directly under the 40s to 70s.

[CalmSeasQuest]

Originally Posted by drtrash

Reef, are you talking about the AI beta or other?

Do all AI owners have some "hot spot", I have raise mine 12" and still has a stronger light blob about 4-5" dia at bottom of tank. Not a big issue for me because aquascaping is in multiple fingers rather than one wall. Running 65% B & 45%W and still is a ton of light, according to PAR meter.

I think some "hot-spotting" is inevitable with the density of LEDs being used. It's far worse with some other manufacturers that use higher LED density or power output.

I've been thinking about the 70° optics, I think they will help, but perhaps not eliminate the issue. Light will be more spread out (diffuse), but it will also result in more light "bleeding" from adjacent pucks, somewhat limiting the benefit. And remember, "nothings-for-nothing." The ~43% increase in coverage gained by going from 40° to 70° results in a similar loss in PAR, especially deeper in the tank (although probably not critical for tanks ≤24" in depth.)

In addition to selecting the best optics for a tanks dimensions/needs, further elevating the LEDs is a viable solution.

[BriGuy31+]

Where can I buy 4 sets of the 70 degree optics? I am running one Sol Blue over my 24"x24"x24" cube and I also notice the "hot spot". I am mow thinking of switching out the 40s in the center. I only run at 38% white and 35% blue, so I would have room to increase % to match PAR.

[Dark_Reef]

Originally Posted by BriGuy31+

Where can I buy 4 sets of the 70 degree optics? I am running one Sol Blue over my 24"x24"x24" cube and I also notice the "hot spot". I am mow thinking of switching out the 40s in the center. I only run at 38% white and 35% blue, so I would have room to increase % to match PAR.

Submit a support ticket on the AI Website. Someone will get back with you.

I ordered mine already and was told it will be a few weeks before they ship.

They are $25 per module/shipped. So it is $100 for a 4 unit.

[BriGuy31+]

Originally Posted by Dark_Reef

Submit a support ticket on the AI Website. Someone will get back with you.

I ordered mine already and was told it will be a few weeks before they ship.

They are $25 per module/shipped. So it is $100 for a 4 unit.

I only have one module. So the $25 shipped is for 70 degree optics for the 6 tri-pucks?

[Dark_Reef]

Originally Posted by BriGuy31+

I only have one module. So the $25 shipped is for 70 degree optics for the 6 tri-pucks?

You are correct if you have one unit then you will get 4 Tri-Optics.

The outer 4 (Corners) are 70s now if you have a SOL Blue.

There is a small Dot in the center of the 70s so you can tell the difference.

[drtrash]

I don't own a PAR meter but borrowed one and collected readings for 20% to 100% with both B & W with even percentages. But did not do uneven %. So my question for the folks with PAR meters and ran diff combinations, Looking at PAR readings from a watts standpoint how close do you think the PAR readings would be (ie 60% B & 40 % W be close to 50% B & 50% W) I know th blue will put out alittle less par. Just wondering if there is a direct correlation of PAR #'s with total watts or total % intensity. I was playing with the controls and really liked the look of 60% B with 20%W but don't have PAR values. These are great toys to play with.

[reefsurfing]

Originally Posted by drtrash

(ie 60% B & 40 % W be close to 50% B & 50% W) I know th blue will put out alittle less par. Just wondering if there is a direct correlation of PAR #'s with total watts or total % intensity. I was playing with the controls and really liked the look of 60% B with 20%W but don't have PAR values. These are great toys to play with.

With a two to one ratio (blue:white) your looking at about 54%.

The blue most likely doesnt put out less par and I think this might soonbe realized by the reefing community. I have no Ph D or credentials to speak of but it is well known that blue light penetrates deeper into the oceans water column. The problem in assessing accurate par values most likely comes from our inability to measure that source of light. I have had this hunch for a while but never gave it much thought until Sanjay, A man with a Ph D, started elluding to the fact that blue is most likely understated 15%~. Who knows, since blue penetrates deeper maybe it will eventually be found that blue actually puts out more P.A.R. than other spectrums.

[wickedfish]

At 83% whites 63% blues at 15" above the water line, I had par on the top 1/3, 8-12" under the surface of the water, between 120 par to 285 par. At 95% both colors I got 70-93par higher than the previous at 85% blue and 90% white I had 65 more par than the 120-285par. I will post my 7" above the surface of the water par by this weekend. Red once you get the firmware down come on over brews on me I will cook you something and you can clown on me for bleaching my 500$ efflo and other H.E. frags.