Step-by-Step: Drilling Holes in Your Glass Tank for Bulkheads - Page 28

bleedingthought · 04/13/2007, 07:08 PM

You gotta register to get into the ASMAS board? :?

JustOneMoreTank · 04/13/2007, 07:22 PM

yep.

muelpaul · 04/14/2007, 04:36 PM

Hello again,
Well here is my first attempt at tank drilling.
Setting up the bracing.

Making the plumbers putty dam for water cooling.

muelpaul · 04/14/2007, 04:46 PM

Here is the drilling process, so far so good.

muelpaul · 04/14/2007, 04:59 PM

When trying to remove the bracing (if you happen to watch the video you will hear me say "it cracked") 2 cracks appeared.

I then tried to drill the bottom glass without bracing and sucess.

I am going to get another 5.5 and give it another try, the glass is so thin that even if I get it drilled ok I will have to brace it with plexiglass for the bulkhead and pvc.

Getting the hole started is the hardest part, other than that it was pretty easy.

JustOneMoreTank · 04/14/2007, 10:17 PM

Did it crack when you hear the noise on the video at 3:08 ??? Or when you were taking out the really tight wood bracing?

muelpaul · 04/15/2007, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by JustOneMoreTank
Did it crack when you hear the noise on the video at 3:08 ??? Or when you were taking out the really tight wood bracing?

Hello JustOneMoreTank,
It cracked when I was taking the brace out. I did a visual check before I started removing the brace and the hole looked perfect.

I have another theory about why it cracked, I had baffles in place before drilling and had made them a little too snug (to compensate for tank expansion), so I believe there was already pressure on the glass before I started drilling.
The bottom glass really wasn't affected by the baffles and thus cut with no problems.
I removed the baffles from the cracked tank and I will make them less snug and drill before placing them in.

Something I didn't think of before but now is clear to me, why not drill through the bottom, put in a durso and let it drain into the sump that way? It would be a much cleaner look I believe.

By the way, I would like to thank you JustOneMoreTank for starting this thread, all of the information it has supplied is awsome!

JustOneMoreTank · 04/15/2007, 09:39 AM

Hey no problem. I am glad that you and so many others found this thread so useful !

I am not sure if that little tank has a tempered bottom or not. You should find out before attempting to drill the bottom.

muelpaul · 04/15/2007, 03:06 PM

Well if anyone is still following my trials and tribulations with tank drilling this is ACT 2 of 5.5 tank drilling.

I started by placing wood blocks under the tank for support and then drilling from the inside. I filled the tank with enough water to cover about 1/4" of the hole saw. It took about 5min and success

I had some scrap acrylic laying around and with a few cuts and a hole...

muelpaul · 04/15/2007, 03:10 PM

I then siliconed around the perimeter of the hole and tank edge and placed the acrylic over it...

I then installed the bulk head, just enough pressure to keep it from moving...

muelpaul · 04/15/2007, 03:20 PM

Then made a support for the filtersock and installed the baffles...

Now to let the silicone dry for 24+ hours and should be good to go

Now I must decide on stockman or CJ stand pipes, I am leaning towards the CJ type...not sure how to make it though.
It might be cheap enough to just buy one.

bleedingthought · 04/15/2007, 05:05 PM

Looks good!

What's a CJ standpipe?

muelpaul · 04/15/2007, 05:34 PM

I found it by doing a search for standpipe, not sure if I can do this but nautilusreef.com has them.
I like how they look, not sure how they perform though.

bascerballer4 · 04/15/2007, 07:04 PM

where do you guys get your bulkheads at?

muelpaul · 04/15/2007, 08:44 PM

Got mine from Marine Depot, could also try Foster and Smith or US Plastic.

bleedingthought · 04/15/2007, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bascerballer4
where do you guys get your bulkheads at?

Check out www.savko.com

swedish steel · 04/15/2007, 11:09 PM

Bulkheads can also be obtained at www.plumbingsupply.com

bleedingthought · 04/16/2007, 04:48 PM

Anyone that has ordered from lau*** on ebay know how to get the combined shipping discount? I've sent them a message before but they never got back to me.

Anyone here ordered more than 5 hole saws?

thumb · 04/16/2007, 07:44 PM

Need some help understanding the bits in this thread.
The way I understand them is they grind thru the glass (or whatever you drilling) not cut.
That they are made to have some wobble to them so as to facilitate the grinding to make use with a hand drill easier.
Anybody hear of this?
Thanks

swedish steel · 04/16/2007, 09:15 PM

bleddingthought-lau has always given me the combined shipping discount, but I wait for his invoice amount before payment so that I am sure everything is straight from the beginning.

thumb-the bits are encrusted with diamond particles that cut/grind through the glass. I have not had any wobble from the several bits of three different sizes that I used.

bleedingthought · 04/16/2007, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by swedish steel
bleddingthought-lau has always given me the combined shipping discount, but I wait for his invoice amount before payment so that I am sure everything is straight from the beginning.

thumb-the bits are encrusted with diamond particles that cut/grind through the glass. I have not had any wobble from the several bits of three different sizes that I used.

Thanks for the quick response, man!

Do you remember what kind of discount he gave you and on how many?

So, should I go ahead and "buy it now" all the ones I want (and for the repeat sizes, do it more than once) and then wait for an invoice with a discount? I want 3 different sizes, but different amounts of each one.

Again, thanks for the help/heads up!

thumb · 04/17/2007, 08:47 AM

I have heard several people say they have some wobble in the bits and it is in this thread that the bit wobble comes up a couple times. Lau in Hong Kong was the one who told me some bit wobble helps in cutting with a hand drill, but had no details. I find it interesting and it may explain why tape is needed on the back of the cut.

Barto · 04/17/2007, 08:51 AM

IME, tape on the backside of the cut helps to prevent chip-out when the bit goes thru the glass

bleedingthought · 04/17/2007, 08:54 AM

Ok, so lau*** (Teddy Lau) got back to me and said that the discount would apply after I bidded on the items (Just like yoiu Said, swedish steel! Thanks.

) or that I could order from their website: www.thk.kk

I figured people would like to know that link. You pay through paypal, which makes it easy and secure.

So, I put in an order for 6 hole saws and got a 25% discount on the shipping. Now, let's see how long it takes for it to get here.

swedish steel · 04/17/2007, 09:37 AM

The only thing I can think of that may be considered a wobble when drilling is: as one drills, you may find it necessary to move the bit so that the bit is cutting at the 12 oclock position and then slowly rotate to cutting more at the 3 oclock, then 6 oclock, followed by cutting at the 9 oclock position rather than holding it as flush in the hole as possible. This will cause the bit to come out the other side in one area first and the last area to be cut may break through causing a larger chip than you may want. With tape on the back side and drilling through the hole as eavenly as possible, letting the drill bit do the final cutting, gets the cleanest cut out the back side of the hole.

04/13/2007, 07:08 PM	#676
bleedingthought Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Acworth, GA Posts: 422	You gotta register to get into the ASMAS board? :? __________________ -Thiago-

04/15/2007, 05:05 PM	#687
bleedingthought Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Acworth, GA Posts: 422	Looks good! What's a CJ standpipe? __________________ -Thiago-

04/16/2007, 04:48 PM	#693
bleedingthought Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Acworth, GA Posts: 422	Anyone that has ordered from lau*** on ebay know how to get the combined shipping discount? I've sent them a message before but they never got back to me. Anyone here ordered more than 5 hole saws? __________________ -Thiago-

04/17/2007, 08:51 AM	#698
Barto Alleged Lounge Moron Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: BigSkyCountry Posts: 459	IME, tape on the backside of the cut helps to prevent chip-out when the bit goes thru the glass __________________ "Outliving our pets is the price we pay for the unconditional love they give us" ~Barto's Mom~ AUGUST 2009 TOTM! Current Tank Info: no more fish tanks, nothing, nada, gone!

04/17/2007, 08:54 AM	#699
bleedingthought Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Acworth, GA Posts: 422	Ok, so lau*** (Teddy Lau) got back to me and said that the discount would apply after I bidded on the items (Just like yoiu Said, swedish steel! Thanks. ) or that I could order from their website: www.thk.kk I figured people would like to know that link. You pay through paypal, which makes it easy and secure. So, I put in an order for 6 hole saws and got a 25% discount on the shipping. Now, let's see how long it takes for it to get here. __________________ -Thiago-

04/13/2007, 07:22 PM	#677
JustOneMoreTank Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 967	yep.

04/14/2007, 04:36 PM	#678
muelpaul Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: New London, WI Posts: 592	Hello again, Well here is my first attempt at tank drilling. Setting up the bracing. Making the plumbers putty dam for water cooling.

04/14/2007, 04:46 PM	#679
muelpaul Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: New London, WI Posts: 592	Here is the drilling process, so far so good.

04/14/2007, 04:59 PM	#680
muelpaul Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: New London, WI Posts: 592	When trying to remove the bracing (if you happen to watch the video you will hear me say "it cracked") 2 cracks appeared. I then tried to drill the bottom glass without bracing and sucess. I am going to get another 5.5 and give it another try, the glass is so thin that even if I get it drilled ok I will have to brace it with plexiglass for the bulkhead and pvc. Getting the hole started is the hardest part, other than that it was pretty easy.

04/14/2007, 10:17 PM	#681
JustOneMoreTank Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 967	Did it crack when you hear the noise on the video at 3:08 ??? Or when you were taking out the really tight wood bracing?

04/15/2007, 09:39 AM	#683
JustOneMoreTank Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 967	Hey no problem. I am glad that you and so many others found this thread so useful ! I am not sure if that little tank has a tempered bottom or not. You should find out before attempting to drill the bottom.

04/15/2007, 03:06 PM	#684
muelpaul Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: New London, WI Posts: 592	Well if anyone is still following my trials and tribulations with tank drilling this is ACT 2 of 5.5 tank drilling. I started by placing wood blocks under the tank for support and then drilling from the inside. I filled the tank with enough water to cover about 1/4" of the hole saw. It took about 5min and success I had some scrap acrylic laying around and with a few cuts and a hole...

04/15/2007, 03:10 PM	#685
muelpaul Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: New London, WI Posts: 592	I then siliconed around the perimeter of the hole and tank edge and placed the acrylic over it... I then installed the bulk head, just enough pressure to keep it from moving...

04/15/2007, 03:20 PM	#686
muelpaul Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: New London, WI Posts: 592	Then made a support for the filtersock and installed the baffles... Now to let the silicone dry for 24+ hours and should be good to go Now I must decide on stockman or CJ stand pipes, I am leaning towards the CJ type...not sure how to make it though. It might be cheap enough to just buy one.

04/15/2007, 05:34 PM	#688
muelpaul Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: New London, WI Posts: 592	I found it by doing a search for standpipe, not sure if I can do this but nautilusreef.com has them. I like how they look, not sure how they perform though.

04/15/2007, 07:04 PM	#689
bascerballer4 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: California Posts: 27	where do you guys get your bulkheads at?

04/15/2007, 08:44 PM	#690
muelpaul Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: New London, WI Posts: 592	Got mine from Marine Depot, could also try Foster and Smith or US Plastic.

04/15/2007, 11:09 PM	#692
swedish steel Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Everett, WA Posts: 102	Bulkheads can also be obtained at www.plumbingsupply.com

04/16/2007, 07:44 PM	#694
thumb Premium Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Jacksonville Beach Florida Posts: 49	Need some help understanding the bits in this thread. The way I understand them is they grind thru the glass (or whatever you drilling) not cut. That they are made to have some wobble to them so as to facilitate the grinding to make use with a hand drill easier. Anybody hear of this? Thanks

04/16/2007, 09:15 PM	#695
swedish steel Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Everett, WA Posts: 102	bleddingthought-lau has always given me the combined shipping discount, but I wait for his invoice amount before payment so that I am sure everything is straight from the beginning. thumb-the bits are encrusted with diamond particles that cut/grind through the glass. I have not had any wobble from the several bits of three different sizes that I used.

04/17/2007, 08:47 AM	#697
thumb Premium Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Jacksonville Beach Florida Posts: 49	I have heard several people say they have some wobble in the bits and it is in this thread that the bit wobble comes up a couple times. Lau in Hong Kong was the one who told me some bit wobble helps in cutting with a hand drill, but had no details. I find it interesting and it may explain why tape is needed on the back of the cut.

04/17/2007, 09:37 AM	#700
swedish steel Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Everett, WA Posts: 102	The only thing I can think of that may be considered a wobble when drilling is: as one drills, you may find it necessary to move the bit so that the bit is cutting at the 12 oclock position and then slowly rotate to cutting more at the 3 oclock, then 6 oclock, followed by cutting at the 9 oclock position rather than holding it as flush in the hole as possible. This will cause the bit to come out the other side in one area first and the last area to be cut may break through causing a larger chip than you may want. With tape on the back side and drilling through the hole as eavenly as possible, letting the drill bit do the final cutting, gets the cleanest cut out the back side of the hole.