Octopus Skimmer Mods - Page 31

BigJPDC · 01/01/2007, 10:59 AM

boxfish - since the opening to your drain mod is at the water line, and the level where the skimmate overflows and enters the cup, won't you actually be draining the stuff you want to be collecting? If I look at your picture, won't foam run right over and down the pipe on that side?

Maybe an elbow, like a mini-durso would be better?

Carl - I'll check that out, but I think I just need smaller and thinner zip ties.

jp

Covey · 01/01/2007, 01:29 PM

I've had my Octo for over 8 months and its never overflowed and I run wet. I 've come home to a few cup full of clear water but never overflowed on to the floor.

Avast Marine · 01/02/2007, 12:22 AM

Another option to prevent overflowing is to make a great big collection cup......

boxfishpooalot · 01/02/2007, 01:11 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Covey
I've had my Octo for over 8 months and its never overflowed and I run wet. I 've come home to a few cup full of clear water but never overflowed on to the floor.

I skimm my tank where the foam reaches the very top of the lip. I get frequent overflows, my skimmate is a dark brown watery color full daily. Thats the reason for my mod

Another option to prevent overflowing is to make a great big collection cup Thats too funny

If I look at your picture, won't foam run right over and down the pipe on that side?Maybe an elbow, like a mini-durso would be better?

Yes a durso standpipe would prevent the effect of dry skimming going over the safety pipe.

Want to take a stab at one?

BigJPDC · 01/02/2007, 07:38 AM

I think it would be a good idea, but not necessarily to prevent an overflow. I have read about and personally seen this weekend where this thing goes nuts and would have filled up even dandyâ€™s monster cup. I seem to have that under control for now by wrapping a bunch of Teflon tape around the standpipe before sliding my gate valve contraption over it. Itâ€™s amazing that this o-ring is my weak link. I went from a percolator to bubbles that smack you in the face when you take the top off, without any mesh.

What Iâ€™d want with this mod would be a drain with a simple jg valve, to make draining easier but not to prevent an overflow. And even thinking about that makes me wonder because you still have to remove the cup to wipe out the sludge that forms around the opening.

jp

chem-e · 01/02/2007, 11:29 AM

For overflow problems, I wrap the drain line back up and into the vent on the return line. Because the line wraps up and back down into the vent, I still collect skimmate, but if the level in the collection cup goes above the highest point on the drain, it overflows into the vent.

I'd use a big collection cup or a seperate collection container, but I travel frequently so I need some kind of fail safe.

This has worked well for me thus far and saved me a couple times, but I need to come up with a cleaner design. This was just something that I thought up after I overflowed once, so it was something to get by with.

Avast Marine · 01/02/2007, 12:21 PM

The other option is what Lifereef does: Put your air inlet for the venturi in the upper part of the collection cup. This work because if you fill to a certain level the pump sucks skimmate instead of air. I have heard it also sucks moist air and keeps the venturi clean. I vent to outside to keep fresh air introduced and run mu skimmer in sump so this doesn't apply to me though.

JCTewks · 01/08/2007, 02:51 PM

Dan, I see you went with a taller neck on the new collection cup...Good choice. FWIW, I must have gone a little overboard on the mesh and melted my pump a couple weeks ago. trying to skim wet with the long neck and raised the head pressure. I came home to a nasty smell and a melted pump. Thank God it didn't actually catch fire. I got a new pump....no extreme mods until i get a dwyaer AND a kill a watt meter. I had to temporarily retire the 16" neck until I can mod the pump again.

Also, for you guys reading this and getting scared....No need to be frightened of the Meshwheel Mod. I had also done some severe modding of the pump itself to allow ALOT more mesh in the volute.

Jeff

reefkeeper1 · 01/08/2007, 06:14 PM

Quote:

The other option is what Lifereef does: Put your air inlet for the venturi in the upper part of the collection cup. This work because if you fill to a certain level the pump sucks skimmate instead of air. I have heard it also sucks moist air and keeps the venturi clean. I vent to outside to keep fresh air introduced and run mu skimmer in sump so this doesn't apply to me though.

This also provides the added benefit of muting the sound of the intake. I might do this in the next week.

tgunn · 01/08/2007, 06:48 PM

Hmm, the one meshmoded pump of my 3 on my skimmer stopped running overnight. It was a little warm but not generating and flow. I will have to take it apart later tonight or tommorow night and see what's up. I imagine the mesh probably expanded a bit and jammed the impeller..

It's unplugged for now.

grandp10 · 01/08/2007, 06:56 PM

Richconley or anyone who knows. What would be the recommended pump for the Octopus NW-150? I saw that an Eheim pump was recommended for the NW-200. Would an Eheim pump be that much better than the stock? If someone knows please let me know what model of Eheim pump it is, and can you use the same needle wheel impeller off the stock pump or what is recommended? Thank you very much.

BigJPDC · 01/08/2007, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by dandy7200
I have heard it also sucks moist air and keeps the venturi clean.

I wonder if I can plumb things such that my ATO adds RO\DI water into the inlet, thereby constantly cleaning it.

jp

CarlC · 01/08/2007, 08:19 PM

JP I would be worried about it overflowing if you added water to the air inlet. I know when I plug my hose the water rise's very fast.

Carl

BigJPDC · 01/08/2007, 08:30 PM

as soon I I sent that I realized it might sound goofy. When I poured water into the inlet to 'un-gunk' it the other day, I didn't notice anything making it's way up in the cup. It was a crazy idea.

coreno16 · 01/08/2007, 09:23 PM

Does anyone have an extra impellor shaft laying around that you'd be willing to give me? I broke mine on accident tonight pulling out the impellor. Was useing it to pry out the impellor like a complete idiot. If you do please try to get ahold of me as soon as possible. I'd appreciate it.

- Cory

ThunderousTalon · 01/10/2007, 05:46 PM

I just ordered a 150, my ER5-2 took a crap(well the sedra did, i maintained it to no end, the dang magnet swelled up). I am going to do the mesh mod as soon as i get it. Read a little ways back it didnt make a tremendous difference on the 150. but i will give it a shot. Also has anyone thought of just weaving fishing line or a like over and under through out the current needle wheel on there and dabbing super glue down to hold it? or would it be to much flex? Just an idea... I've been cut by line a few times so i'd imagine it'd be pretty brutal to some bubbles.

wojo · 01/10/2007, 08:15 PM

guys, do you have any pictures on how to do the (SHORT) venturi mod on NW-150? I was pulling 4 l/min stock and 6 l'min after mesh mod but i think the stock venturi is not letting enough air.

any help is appreciated

thanks,
Wojo

coreno16 · 01/10/2007, 10:18 PM

Well since this is the mod thread i thought id let you all know what i did for my pump. Since i broke the impellor shaft, I MADE A NEW ONE!!!!! YAY! There was no way i was going to let my skimmer sit dry EVER! So I took some of the leftover carbon fiber shaft i had from my maximods, and cut it to length. One drawback is the shaft does not fit the impellor all too well. It's definatly too small of a diameter. So next order i make ill buy some larger diameter carbon fiber rod and use that one for good. Other than the noise from the impellor vibrations, the skimmer runs as good as new, and with some of the mods ive done even better than new. I LOVE THESE SKIMMERS.

- Cory

JCTewks · 01/13/2007, 10:53 PM

Well, I finally got an air meter

On my dnw 110 with the otp1000 pump i am pulling 15 SCFH at only 14.5 watts of power

I think that is pretty good....

I am going to try and get more air in there....I melted my last pump and am taking it easy on the new pump at the moment...I hope to get 20 SCFH and stay at 14 watts or less. IMHO that would be an efficient bubble producer.

FYI: the impeller is a bottom layer of needle pointers mesh, with 4 layers of the mavgi mesh and gutterguard on the top...all sewed together with 10# test fishing line.

Jeff

wojo · 01/13/2007, 11:11 PM

hey jeff, whats the conversion from SCFH to L/MIN? i got the meter but its in L/MIN. I meshmodded the impeller on my NW-150 and im getting 7 L/MIN now.

i have no idea if its good or not.

also do you know how to mod the short venturi on these pumps?

thanks man, i just hope this thread is not dead

Avast Marine · 01/13/2007, 11:24 PM

Conversion Calc care of Randystacye. Thread is far from dean

wojo · 01/13/2007, 11:30 PM

thanks dandy7200, you rock, and i meant "dead" (thread edited) LMAO

so im pulling around 15 SCFH on my skimmer. good or bad?

im gonna try asking this question again, how to mod short venturi. i read entire thread but noone described on how its done?

anybody?

Avast Marine · 01/13/2007, 11:36 PM

What mod are you refering to? There is drilling the venturi hole out a bit and then there is notching the o-ring to let the air pass through better. Both are very simple and the o-ring one should be done out of the box. 15 SCFH is what my 3000 pulled out of the box. I switched to the new sp4 pull way more than that but have to restrict it to about 30 SCFH even with the extended neck. HTH

wojo · 01/13/2007, 11:53 PM

i dont think i need the o-ring as my skimmer seems to be newer model or something and it does not block the inlet. i dont even have a rubber washer on it.

drilling the venturi is the one. i am not sure what needs to be done, should i make the holes bigger? the one that goes from the top (with little plastic pipe) and the one that goes along the pipe? is that the issue? making it bigger so more air goes through? sorry about my ignorance...

what is sp4?

thanks mate

Avast Marine · 01/14/2007, 12:23 AM

Drilling the venturi has mixed results. If your pulling that much air, I would focus on getting the bubble size you want not more air. Often people end up restricting the air at the end of the tubing after drilling the venturi. I wouldn't even consider doing this to the short venturi since it is a wierd design, works great though as is.
sp4 is a Euroreef modded genx4100 with pinwheel, no I'm not cutting the pins off, very happy with the results I am seeing.

01/01/2007, 10:59 AM	#751
BigJPDC Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 959	boxfish - since the opening to your drain mod is at the water line, and the level where the skimmate overflows and enters the cup, won't you actually be draining the stuff you want to be collecting? If I look at your picture, won't foam run right over and down the pipe on that side? Maybe an elbow, like a mini-durso would be better? Carl - I'll check that out, but I think I just need smaller and thinner zip ties. jp __________________ Rock in the tank is money not in my bank. Current Tank Info: 65 RR AGA

01/02/2007, 12:22 AM	#753
Avast Marine RC Sponsor Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Northern VA Posts: 2,446	Another option to prevent overflowing is to make a great big collection cup...... __________________ Dan Don't rush art, you get bad art.

01/02/2007, 07:38 AM	#755
BigJPDC Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 959	I think it would be a good idea, but not necessarily to prevent an overflow. I have read about and personally seen this weekend where this thing goes nuts and would have filled up even dandyâ€™s monster cup. I seem to have that under control for now by wrapping a bunch of Teflon tape around the standpipe before sliding my gate valve contraption over it. Itâ€™s amazing that this o-ring is my weak link. I went from a percolator to bubbles that smack you in the face when you take the top off, without any mesh. What Iâ€™d want with this mod would be a drain with a simple jg valve, to make draining easier but not to prevent an overflow. And even thinking about that makes me wonder because you still have to remove the cup to wipe out the sludge that forms around the opening. jp __________________ Rock in the tank is money not in my bank. Current Tank Info: 65 RR AGA

01/02/2007, 11:29 AM	#756
chem-e Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: San Francisco Posts: 1,350	For overflow problems, I wrap the drain line back up and into the vent on the return line. Because the line wraps up and back down into the vent, I still collect skimmate, but if the level in the collection cup goes above the highest point on the drain, it overflows into the vent. I'd use a big collection cup or a seperate collection container, but I travel frequently so I need some kind of fail safe. This has worked well for me thus far and saved me a couple times, but I need to come up with a cleaner design. This was just something that I thought up after I overflowed once, so it was something to get by with. __________________ "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." ~ Benjamin Franklin Current Tank Info: Elos [~] 70 powered by Profilux

01/02/2007, 12:21 PM	#757
Avast Marine RC Sponsor Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Northern VA Posts: 2,446	The other option is what Lifereef does: Put your air inlet for the venturi in the upper part of the collection cup. This work because if you fill to a certain level the pump sucks skimmate instead of air. I have heard it also sucks moist air and keeps the venturi clean. I vent to outside to keep fresh air introduced and run mu skimmer in sump so this doesn't apply to me though. __________________ Dan Don't rush art, you get bad art.

01/01/2007, 01:29 PM	#752
Covey Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Davenport IA Posts: 2,018	I've had my Octo for over 8 months and its never overflowed and I run wet. I 've come home to a few cup full of clear water but never overflowed on to the floor.

01/08/2007, 02:51 PM	#758
JCTewks Moved On Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Wilmington, Ohio Posts: 3,040	Dan, I see you went with a taller neck on the new collection cup...Good choice. FWIW, I must have gone a little overboard on the mesh and melted my pump a couple weeks ago. trying to skim wet with the long neck and raised the head pressure. I came home to a nasty smell and a melted pump. Thank God it didn't actually catch fire. I got a new pump....no extreme mods until i get a dwyaer AND a kill a watt meter. I had to temporarily retire the 16" neck until I can mod the pump again. Also, for you guys reading this and getting scared....No need to be frightened of the Meshwheel Mod. I had also done some severe modding of the pump itself to allow ALOT more mesh in the volute. Jeff

01/08/2007, 06:48 PM	#760
tgunn Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Cupertino, CA USA Posts: 4,027	Hmm, the one meshmoded pump of my 3 on my skimmer stopped running overnight. It was a little warm but not generating and flow. I will have to take it apart later tonight or tommorow night and see what's up. I imagine the mesh probably expanded a bit and jammed the impeller.. It's unplugged for now.

01/08/2007, 06:56 PM	#761
grandp10 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 516	Richconley or anyone who knows. What would be the recommended pump for the Octopus NW-150? I saw that an Eheim pump was recommended for the NW-200. Would an Eheim pump be that much better than the stock? If someone knows please let me know what model of Eheim pump it is, and can you use the same needle wheel impeller off the stock pump or what is recommended? Thank you very much.

01/08/2007, 08:19 PM	#763
CarlC Premium Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Leesport, PA Posts: 1,099	JP I would be worried about it overflowing if you added water to the air inlet. I know when I plug my hose the water rise's very fast. Carl

01/08/2007, 08:30 PM	#764
BigJPDC Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 959	as soon I I sent that I realized it might sound goofy. When I poured water into the inlet to 'un-gunk' it the other day, I didn't notice anything making it's way up in the cup. It was a crazy idea. __________________ Rock in the tank is money not in my bank. Current Tank Info: 65 RR AGA

01/08/2007, 09:23 PM	#765
coreno16 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Shelby Twp, MI Posts: 181	Does anyone have an extra impellor shaft laying around that you'd be willing to give me? I broke mine on accident tonight pulling out the impellor. Was useing it to pry out the impellor like a complete idiot. If you do please try to get ahold of me as soon as possible. I'd appreciate it. - Cory __________________ Cory Current Tank Info: 46 gallon bowfront, 20gallon sump/refugium, 36" Aquactinics MH/T5 Fixture, RO NW-150 Skimmer, 2 Maxi-Mods

01/10/2007, 05:46 PM	#766
ThunderousTalon Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: HITH Posts: 737	I just ordered a 150, my ER5-2 took a crap(well the sedra did, i maintained it to no end, the dang magnet swelled up). I am going to do the mesh mod as soon as i get it. Read a little ways back it didnt make a tremendous difference on the 150. but i will give it a shot. Also has anyone thought of just weaving fishing line or a like over and under through out the current needle wheel on there and dabbing super glue down to hold it? or would it be to much flex? Just an idea... I've been cut by line a few times so i'd imagine it'd be pretty brutal to some bubbles.

01/10/2007, 08:15 PM	#767
wojo Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Bartlett, IL Posts: 752	guys, do you have any pictures on how to do the (SHORT) venturi mod on NW-150? I was pulling 4 l/min stock and 6 l'min after mesh mod but i think the stock venturi is not letting enough air. any help is appreciated thanks, Wojo __________________ "you work to live, you don't live to work" Current Tank Info: 75g Reef, 100lbs LR, 20g Sump/Fuge, (2)250W 12k Reeflux MHs, (2)110W Actinic VHOs, Dosing DIY 2-part w/ Aquamedic Twin Doser, all controlled by ReefKeeper2

01/10/2007, 10:18 PM	#768
coreno16 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Shelby Twp, MI Posts: 181	Well since this is the mod thread i thought id let you all know what i did for my pump. Since i broke the impellor shaft, I MADE A NEW ONE!!!!! YAY! There was no way i was going to let my skimmer sit dry EVER! So I took some of the leftover carbon fiber shaft i had from my maximods, and cut it to length. One drawback is the shaft does not fit the impellor all too well. It's definatly too small of a diameter. So next order i make ill buy some larger diameter carbon fiber rod and use that one for good. Other than the noise from the impellor vibrations, the skimmer runs as good as new, and with some of the mods ive done even better than new. I LOVE THESE SKIMMERS. - Cory __________________ Cory Current Tank Info: 46 gallon bowfront, 20gallon sump/refugium, 36" Aquactinics MH/T5 Fixture, RO NW-150 Skimmer, 2 Maxi-Mods

01/13/2007, 10:53 PM	#769
JCTewks Moved On Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Wilmington, Ohio Posts: 3,040	Well, I finally got an air meter On my dnw 110 with the otp1000 pump i am pulling 15 SCFH at only 14.5 watts of power I think that is pretty good.... I am going to try and get more air in there....I melted my last pump and am taking it easy on the new pump at the moment...I hope to get 20 SCFH and stay at 14 watts or less. IMHO that would be an efficient bubble producer. FYI: the impeller is a bottom layer of needle pointers mesh, with 4 layers of the mavgi mesh and gutterguard on the top...all sewed together with 10# test fishing line. Jeff

01/13/2007, 11:11 PM	#770
wojo Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Bartlett, IL Posts: 752	hey jeff, whats the conversion from SCFH to L/MIN? i got the meter but its in L/MIN. I meshmodded the impeller on my NW-150 and im getting 7 L/MIN now. i have no idea if its good or not. also do you know how to mod the short venturi on these pumps? thanks man, i just hope this thread is not dead __________________ "you work to live, you don't live to work" Current Tank Info: 75g Reef, 100lbs LR, 20g Sump/Fuge, (2)250W 12k Reeflux MHs, (2)110W Actinic VHOs, Dosing DIY 2-part w/ Aquamedic Twin Doser, all controlled by ReefKeeper2 Last edited by wojo; 01/13/2007 at 11:30 PM.

01/13/2007, 11:24 PM	#771
Avast Marine RC Sponsor Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Northern VA Posts: 2,446	Conversion Calc care of Randystacye. Thread is far from dean __________________ Dan Don't rush art, you get bad art.

01/13/2007, 11:30 PM	#772
wojo Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Bartlett, IL Posts: 752	thanks dandy7200, you rock, and i meant "dead" (thread edited) LMAO so im pulling around 15 SCFH on my skimmer. good or bad? im gonna try asking this question again, how to mod short venturi. i read entire thread but noone described on how its done? anybody? __________________ "you work to live, you don't live to work" Current Tank Info: 75g Reef, 100lbs LR, 20g Sump/Fuge, (2)250W 12k Reeflux MHs, (2)110W Actinic VHOs, Dosing DIY 2-part w/ Aquamedic Twin Doser, all controlled by ReefKeeper2

01/13/2007, 11:36 PM	#773
Avast Marine RC Sponsor Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Northern VA Posts: 2,446	What mod are you refering to? There is drilling the venturi hole out a bit and then there is notching the o-ring to let the air pass through better. Both are very simple and the o-ring one should be done out of the box. 15 SCFH is what my 3000 pulled out of the box. I switched to the new sp4 pull way more than that but have to restrict it to about 30 SCFH even with the extended neck. HTH __________________ Dan Don't rush art, you get bad art.

01/13/2007, 11:53 PM	#774
wojo Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Bartlett, IL Posts: 752	i dont think i need the o-ring as my skimmer seems to be newer model or something and it does not block the inlet. i dont even have a rubber washer on it. drilling the venturi is the one. i am not sure what needs to be done, should i make the holes bigger? the one that goes from the top (with little plastic pipe) and the one that goes along the pipe? is that the issue? making it bigger so more air goes through? sorry about my ignorance... what is sp4? thanks mate __________________ "you work to live, you don't live to work" Current Tank Info: 75g Reef, 100lbs LR, 20g Sump/Fuge, (2)250W 12k Reeflux MHs, (2)110W Actinic VHOs, Dosing DIY 2-part w/ Aquamedic Twin Doser, all controlled by ReefKeeper2

01/14/2007, 12:23 AM	#775
Avast Marine RC Sponsor Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Northern VA Posts: 2,446	Drilling the venturi has mixed results. If your pulling that much air, I would focus on getting the bubble size you want not more air. Often people end up restricting the air at the end of the tubing after drilling the venturi. I wouldn't even consider doing this to the short venturi since it is a wierd design, works great though as is. sp4 is a Euroreef modded genx4100 with pinwheel, no I'm not cutting the pins off, very happy with the results I am seeing. __________________ Dan Don't rush art, you get bad art.