Octopus Skimmer Mods - Page 32

ppurcell · 06/23/2007, 03:12 PM

I think you can use a U tube on the riser instead of a gatevalve. Install it on the end of the riser pipe just like Mr Bojangles picture except without the GV. You may need to increase the height of the notch so that if the end of the pipe is deeper in the sump there is still an air opening.

Give it a try and tell us how it works out.

markywmson · 06/23/2007, 06:58 PM

I've got mine setup the same way you do, with the return under water. if it adds backpressure, it doesn't matter because you're adjusting to the constant backpressure. the problem (other than the fluctuating water level) is that your horizontal pipe (where the gate valve is) is too high. You need to cut the grey pipe down. I tried it this way, because I was hesitant to cut the pipe, and it just wouldn't stay put because the water level (horizontal pipe/gate valve) is at the transition of the neck. There's just not enough room for adjustment. I don't know that I'd worry about the water level fluctuating too much, as you have an Osmolater, so it shouldn't be fluctuating by inches, right?

I know it's a bit scary to cut, but if you cut that grey riser pipe down low (like leave 2-3 inches past the bend) and put your gate valve contraption there, then it should work much better. At least that's what worked for me...

carlos_fb · 06/24/2007, 01:41 PM

Thanks for the tip. do you have pictures of your skimmer?

Quote:

Originally posted by markywmson
I've got mine setup the same way you do, with the return under water. if it adds backpressure, it doesn't matter because you're adjusting to the constant backpressure. the problem (other than the fluctuating water level) is that your horizontal pipe (where the gate valve is) is too high. You need to cut the grey pipe down. I tried it this way, because I was hesitant to cut the pipe, and it just wouldn't stay put because the water level (horizontal pipe/gate valve) is at the transition of the neck. There's just not enough room for adjustment. I don't know that I'd worry about the water level fluctuating too much, as you have an Osmolater, so it shouldn't be fluctuating by inches, right?

I know it's a bit scary to cut, but if you cut that grey riser pipe down low (like leave 2-3 inches past the bend) and put your gate valve contraption there, then it should work much better. At least that's what worked for me...

hounddog01 · 06/24/2007, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by carlos_fb
I did what you guys suggested. However the water level in the area where I have the skimmer fluctuates with my Osmolator so I guess I won't be able to get it right with my current setup.

Is there any other alternative to the gate valve? can you do something like a "u" for the adjustable standpipe so that it does not make that much noise?

Sorry Man, I will post pics of mine tonight. Wife had the camera and was out of town. It is very easy and you can get the parts at the local Menards or Lowes.

markywmson · 06/24/2007, 04:23 PM

I can try to get a shot of it... but I don't know how well it will come out.

carlos_fb · 06/24/2007, 04:56 PM

markywmson: I am really trying to avoid cutting the riser pipe but I hear what you say. Also you are right, the water level in the skimmer area does not fluctuate much at all. A picture would be great if you can.

hounddog01: whenever you get a chance it's fine, thanks!

I removed the coupler that I had in the raiser pipe. I also cut the drain pipe so that it is not fully under water.

Check it out and let me know what you think?

ppurcell · 06/24/2007, 05:52 PM

I think that is better, however I suspect you are going to continue to have trouble keeping the bubble level in the neck stable if your ATO is changing the water level and you leave the gatevalve installed.

To test:

1. clean the collection cup and neck
2. turn off ATO
3. Remove some water from sump into a bucket. Lower to the ATO fill trigger level (low water mark)
4. Observe bubble level in skimmer neck
5. Refill water to ATO shutoff level (high water mark)
6. Observe bubble level in skimmer neck

If the bubble level remains constant than you are good to go. If the bubble level changed then your pump is being affected by the fluctuation in backpressure and you will not get a constant collection rate over the course of the day as evaporation and ATO filling occurs. Add in the fact that you are topping off with RODI water and you are diluting both the salt water and the dissolved organics, both of which have a short term effect on your skimmer behavior.

If you are seeing your bubble production vary between the low water mark and the high water mark, then I think there are only a couple of solutions.

1. Convert to a recirculating skimmer which will not be affected by water level in the sump
2. move the skimmer to a compartment in which the water level does not change
3. remove the gatevalve and use the standpipe (either straight up or in a way that is similar to your current configuration)
4. leave the gatevalve installed and continue to overflow or undercollect and be unhappy about it.

markywmson · 06/24/2007, 08:37 PM

that does definitely look better having the gate valve lower. As ppurcell says, that would be the best way to check and see how the water level changes your bubble production. My thinking is that your Osmolator keeps the water at a pretty constant level by turning on and off quite often. But it COULD still be an issue.

That is closer to how mine looks, but still lower. However, this might be workable. What kind of connection do you have from the riser pipe to the gatevalve thing? Is is watertight (or as watertight as a sump install needs to be)?

And for my own knowledge ppurcell... how does the riser pipe maybe keep the water at a constant level inside? It seems that there wouldn't be much difference with the gatevalve assembly if the water level is fluctuating in the sump compartment.

Thanks!

and Carlos... good luck

ppurcell · 06/24/2007, 08:56 PM

markywmson, I cannot give a technical explanation, however it is somewhat intuitive. The gatevalve provides a rather specific amount of resistance to the pump resulting in a particular water volume through it. When you increase the water depth, the base water level in the skimmer rises the same amount but the gatevalve does not compensate for this. The result is that if the water level rises you either end up skimming wetter than you were or with a flooded collection cup. If the water level drops below the level you used to set the gatevalve then you either skim drier than you planned or maybe you get no skimmate at all. If your water level fluctuates a lot, then you may see all of these conditions.

When using a standpipe, the water rises to a set height and leaves the skimmer at a faster or slower rate but always at the same height. In that way the pump is less affected by fluctuating water depth.

I have also noticed that if the impeller is out of balance, then it may spin faster or slower resulting in a more or less water volume per unit of time. This can greatly affect water flow and in turn affect skimmate production in much the same way.

cee · 06/25/2007, 06:32 PM

OK, for those of you who have done the venturi modification, I have a question. First, some background. I bored out the existing venturi to 0.19", including the 90 degree bend section and the stock hose barb fitting on the OTP-3000. I added 3 layers of the Enkamat plus one layer of gutter guard to keep everything neat. It definately pulls a lot more air, but I don't think I've optimized the venturi. Is it better to:

1) Do what I've done and bore out the "stock" design, including notching the rubber washer so there's no obstruction?

2) Drill straight through into the venturi where the stock hose barb is located and insert either:

a) Nothing but use 3/8" OD RO/DI tubing
b) Nothing but use 1/4" OD RO/DI tubing
c) Insert a section of 3/8" OD RO/DI tubing with the end cut at 45 degrees in the middle of the venturi section
d) Insert a section of 1/4" OD RO/DI tubing with the end cut at 45 degrees in the middle of the venturi section
e) Other suggestions?

I feel I can get more air in, but don't have a flowmeter and can't go back on some of the proposed mods. Thanks all!

skwirl · 06/25/2007, 07:59 PM

cee.... we need to get together.. we can probably help each other.. im doing alot of the same things.. i also have 2 opt 3000 pumps. 1 meshed, and running on my newly recirc modded euroreef cs8-2, and another just sitting. i have an idea.. shoot me a pm, or an email.

squin · 06/25/2007, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by cee
OK, for those of you who have done the venturi modification, I have a question. First, some background. I bored out the existing venturi to 0.19", including the 90 degree bend section and the stock hose barb fitting on the OTP-3000. I added 3 layers of the Enkamat plus one layer of gutter guard to keep everything neat. It definately pulls a lot more air, but I don't think I've optimized the venturi. Is it better to:

1) Do what I've done and bore out the "stock" design, including notching the rubber washer so there's no obstruction?

2) Drill straight through into the venturi where the stock hose barb is located and insert either:

a) Nothing but use 3/8" OD RO/DI tubing
b) Nothing but use 1/4" OD RO/DI tubing
c) Insert a section of 3/8" OD RO/DI tubing with the end cut at 45 degrees in the middle of the venturi section
d) Insert a section of 1/4" OD RO/DI tubing with the end cut at 45 degrees in the middle of the venturi section
e) Other suggestions?

I feel I can get more air in, but don't have a flow meter and can't go back on some of the proposed mods. Thanks all!

You're on the right track, but do yourself a BIG favor and get a flow meter and a Kill-A-Watt. Without measuring each incremental change for both airflow and wattage you will not know what worked and what did not. When you do purchase the airflow meter don't do what I did. I originally purchased a small and inexpensive, Dwyer MMA-7. This meter was to small and actually restricted my airflow. My mods maxed out at 25 SCFH. I just received a Dwyer RMB-52D ($36.25 + shipping). Wow what a difference! Without any additional mods my skimmer is pulling a steady 34 SCFH/16 LPM at 81 Watts. This was the performance I was looking for, but could not reach with the smaller airflow meter.

My mods to date:

1. Notched the washer so as to not block the airway.

2. Removed one needle wheel and broke half the pins off the second. Added 3 layers of PF-4, cut to the diameter of the older, larger impellers, and secured with fishing line.

3. Bored out the stock airway with a 11/64" bit. I did not drill all the way through, but maintained the stock 90 deg airway.

4. Bored out the output piping and polished the pump volute as outlined by others earlier in this thread.

5. Inserted a thick garden hose washer on the intake of the venturi to slightly restrict the water flow on my original pump. I did this to bring the wattage down. You can see a photo of this by clicking my gallery icon. There is a difference in the older vs. newer pumps. The latest pumps have a smaller diameter needle wheel (see photo in gallery) and don't pull as much water or wattage. I have one of the older pumps and a newer pump purchased as a backup. The hose washer was not needed when I tested the newer pump.

Good luck, and be careful to make mods that are either reversible or yield a documented result. Replacement parts can be hard to find.

hounddog01 · 06/26/2007, 09:21 AM

I have a air meter. Before any mods it pulled about 10-11. Did the mesh mod, that helped made it pull 17-18. Did the ventrui mod by drilling all the way thru with a bit the size of RO line. Inserted the line in the skimmer and drilled out the 90 and made it every so slightly larger. Now I do not know how much air I am pulling since my meter only goes up to 20 and it pegs it to the top and holds it there without any fluctuation. It snaps it up there and makes a click sound when it hits. I am guessing between 26-30. I had to lower the water level in the skimmer about 1/2 an inch after I finished the venturi mod. The first night it overflowed.

The only thing I can say about the skimmer and mods that I really do not like that much, and I do not know if all skimmers do this. My skimmer takes about 30-45 minutes to start skimming after it has been turned off for a little while. Also when I am in the sump changing filter socks or other items it looses its bubble head.

luke33 · 06/26/2007, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by hounddog01

The only thing I can say about the skimmer and mods that I really do not like that much, and I do not know if all skimmers do this. My skimmer takes about 30-45 minutes to start skimming after it has been turned off for a little while. Also when I am in the sump changing filter socks or other items it looses its bubble head. [/B]

This is my experience with all skimmers. Anytime you feed, put your hand in the water, water change, they always lose head and it takes a while to get back to normal. Sucks!

outy · 06/26/2007, 11:04 AM

both my mods got me 31 scfh and 35 scfh with the older pump. 3000

bored elbow out to 5/8

o-ring mod

1 needle wheel snapped of 3 layers pf4 with 4 zip ties

jg fitting installed where the original air nipple was, drilled the air hole out to the id of normal ro/di plastic tubing [without drilling through the 90]

cee · 06/26/2007, 03:30 PM

Thanks, all. My venturi sounds about right, but I like the washer idea to increase the water velocity through the venturi and improve the air draw. Also, I'll cut off a few needles on the remaining impeller to reduce the impeller weight and hopefully draw a little more air and less loading on the motor.

davidabrown66 · 06/26/2007, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by outy
both my mods got me 31 scfh and 35 scfh with the older pump. 3000

bored elbow out to 5/8

o-ring mod

1 needle wheel snapped of 3 layers pf4 with 4 zip ties

jg fitting installed where the original air nipple was, drilled the air hole out to the id of normal ro/di plastic tubing [without drilling through the 90]

Hey Outy, which Dwyer air meter are you using...the RMA-7?

It sounds like Squin went to a different Dwyer meter, and it measures 10 SCFH higher than the RMA-7 which is what I use. Just curious.

Thanks

cato · 06/26/2007, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by JCTewks
I had the smae prob with mine. it has something to dp with the volute cover not going all the way down....the ceramic shaft is not quite cenered and is keeping the cover from seeting properly. to resolve that, I just popout the little rubber boot that the shaft sits in(right in the middle of the inlet on the cover), and put it on the shaft before i put the volute cover back on. then give the volute cover a little twist as your putting it back on. it will seat properly and your leak should be gone. The only other explanation would be that you nicked the o-ring. if my first suggestion doesn't work, check the o-ring and replace if you have to. Please post if it worked or not.

OK so I did as you recommended plus wrapped 6 layers of Teflon tape and "viola" no more leak. Thanks for the suggestions.

outy · 06/26/2007, 06:59 PM

yep the rma 7

squin · 06/26/2007, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by davidabrown66
Hey Outy, which Dwyer air meter are you using...the RMA-7?

It sounds like Squin went to a different Dwyer meter, and it measures 10 SCFH higher than the RMA-7 which is what I use. Just curious.

Thanks

Just to clarify... I switched from the MMA-7 with a 5/16" push on type connector to the RMB-52D with a 1/4' threaded connection. Airflow jumped from 25 SCFH to 34 SCFH.

The RMA-7 has a 1/8" threaded connection and a 2" scale. I can't speak to the performance of the RMA-7, but the RMB-52D with 1/4" connection and 5" scale really opened up the airflow for me.

Try removing the RMA-7. If the aiflow and performance jumps your meter is restricting airflow.

carlos_fb · 06/26/2007, 10:18 PM

markywmson and ppurcell, I tried pretty much all you suggested and I still could not get it right so I gave up and put the riser stand pipe back.

I will get a Recirculating 150 when I get a chance and I also plan to get a new sump with a fuge so I will need an external skimmer anyway.

Thank you guys very much for your help!

outy · 06/27/2007, 12:16 AM

both meters are very accurate, the plumbing going into them is the only varible that could cause a 10scfh difference.

i have a 1/4" jg push fitting on my rma 7 with a brass coupler attached to steel double threaded fitting [same size as entrance threads on meter] and theres nothing smaller then the 3/16" id of my ro/di tubing going into the jg fitting.

probably why my numbers are so close to squin,s numbers, plumbed rite theres no reason the rma 7 cant give accurate numbers

davidabrown66 · 06/27/2007, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by outy
both meters are very accurate, the plumbing going into them is the only varible that could cause a 10scfh difference.

i have a 1/4" jg push fitting on my rma 7 with a brass coupler attached to steel double threaded fitting [same size as entrance threads on meter] and theres nothing smaller then the 3/16" id of my ro/di tubing going into the jg fitting.

probably why my numbers are so close to squin,s numbers, plumbed rite theres no reason the rma 7 cant give accurate numbers

There's no restrictions on mine either. I have the same barbed fitting on the meter that I have on the venturi. My #'s are 28 SCFH at 90 watts. We'll see what I can do when i get the gen-x 4100 up and going as a replacement for the OTP-3000.

outy · 06/27/2007, 11:58 AM

if your getting 28scfh then thats probably accurate numbers, im sure the larger meter wont give you 38

JCTewks · 06/27/2007, 11:08 PM

I really don't see why you shouldn't get 38SCFH out of an OTP3000. I'm getting 20SCFH out of an OTP1000 that is rated at 1/3 the output of the 3000. Rich Conley had at one point an OTP3000 pulling 50+SCFH. He couldn't even use that on his skimmer as it was way too much air for the DNW200.

Are you guys reaming out the inside of the volute at all? or just tweaking the impeller and venturi?

06/24/2007, 04:56 PM	#781
carlos_fb Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Michigan Posts: 879	markywmson: I am really trying to avoid cutting the riser pipe but I hear what you say. Also you are right, the water level in the skimmer area does not fluctuate much at all. A picture would be great if you can. hounddog01: whenever you get a chance it's fine, thanks! I removed the coupler that I had in the raiser pipe. I also cut the drain pipe so that it is not fully under water. Check it out and let me know what you think? Last edited by carlos_fb; 06/24/2007 at 05:04 PM.

06/24/2007, 05:52 PM	#782
ppurcell Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Naperville, IL Posts: 2,911	I think that is better, however I suspect you are going to continue to have trouble keeping the bubble level in the neck stable if your ATO is changing the water level and you leave the gatevalve installed. To test: 1. clean the collection cup and neck 2. turn off ATO 3. Remove some water from sump into a bucket. Lower to the ATO fill trigger level (low water mark) 4. Observe bubble level in skimmer neck 5. Refill water to ATO shutoff level (high water mark) 6. Observe bubble level in skimmer neck If the bubble level remains constant than you are good to go. If the bubble level changed then your pump is being affected by the fluctuation in backpressure and you will not get a constant collection rate over the course of the day as evaporation and ATO filling occurs. Add in the fact that you are topping off with RODI water and you are diluting both the salt water and the dissolved organics, both of which have a short term effect on your skimmer behavior. If you are seeing your bubble production vary between the low water mark and the high water mark, then I think there are only a couple of solutions. 1. Convert to a recirculating skimmer which will not be affected by water level in the sump 2. move the skimmer to a compartment in which the water level does not change 3. remove the gatevalve and use the standpipe (either straight up or in a way that is similar to your current configuration) 4. leave the gatevalve installed and continue to overflow or undercollect and be unhappy about it. Last edited by ppurcell; 06/24/2007 at 06:03 PM.

06/25/2007, 06:32 PM	#785
cee Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: popping by Posts: 4,041	OK, for those of you who have done the venturi modification, I have a question. First, some background. I bored out the existing venturi to 0.19", including the 90 degree bend section and the stock hose barb fitting on the OTP-3000. I added 3 layers of the Enkamat plus one layer of gutter guard to keep everything neat. It definately pulls a lot more air, but I don't think I've optimized the venturi. Is it better to: 1) Do what I've done and bore out the "stock" design, including notching the rubber washer so there's no obstruction? 2) Drill straight through into the venturi where the stock hose barb is located and insert either: a) Nothing but use 3/8" OD RO/DI tubing b) Nothing but use 1/4" OD RO/DI tubing c) Insert a section of 3/8" OD RO/DI tubing with the end cut at 45 degrees in the middle of the venturi section d) Insert a section of 1/4" OD RO/DI tubing with the end cut at 45 degrees in the middle of the venturi section e) Other suggestions? I feel I can get more air in, but don't have a flowmeter and can't go back on some of the proposed mods. Thanks all! __________________ "keeping low doesn't make no sense -- sometimes people can be oh so dense" Charles Thompson IV Current Tank Info: 80 gallon rimless DBA

06/26/2007, 09:21 AM	#788
hounddog01 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Bloomington, IL Posts: 1,045	I have a air meter. Before any mods it pulled about 10-11. Did the mesh mod, that helped made it pull 17-18. Did the ventrui mod by drilling all the way thru with a bit the size of RO line. Inserted the line in the skimmer and drilled out the 90 and made it every so slightly larger. Now I do not know how much air I am pulling since my meter only goes up to 20 and it pegs it to the top and holds it there without any fluctuation. It snaps it up there and makes a click sound when it hits. I am guessing between 26-30. I had to lower the water level in the skimmer about 1/2 an inch after I finished the venturi mod. The first night it overflowed. The only thing I can say about the skimmer and mods that I really do not like that much, and I do not know if all skimmers do this. My skimmer takes about 30-45 minutes to start skimming after it has been turned off for a little while. Also when I am in the sump changing filter socks or other items it looses its bubble head. __________________ Brad "The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing." - Socrates Current Tank Info: 180 gallon Acrylic, 65 gallon custom sump, Octopus Extreme 250, 150 LBS Marco Rock, 2-250 W Phoenix with 4 110 VHO supplement

06/26/2007, 03:30 PM	#791
cee Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: popping by Posts: 4,041	Thanks, all. My venturi sounds about right, but I like the washer idea to increase the water velocity through the venturi and improve the air draw. Also, I'll cut off a few needles on the remaining impeller to reduce the impeller weight and hopefully draw a little more air and less loading on the motor. __________________ "keeping low doesn't make no sense -- sometimes people can be oh so dense" Charles Thompson IV Current Tank Info: 80 gallon rimless DBA

06/23/2007, 03:12 PM	#776
ppurcell Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Naperville, IL Posts: 2,911	I think you can use a U tube on the riser instead of a gatevalve. Install it on the end of the riser pipe just like Mr Bojangles picture except without the GV. You may need to increase the height of the notch so that if the end of the pipe is deeper in the sump there is still an air opening. Give it a try and tell us how it works out.

06/23/2007, 06:58 PM	#777
markywmson Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Bristol, CT Posts: 303	I've got mine setup the same way you do, with the return under water. if it adds backpressure, it doesn't matter because you're adjusting to the constant backpressure. the problem (other than the fluctuating water level) is that your horizontal pipe (where the gate valve is) is too high. You need to cut the grey pipe down. I tried it this way, because I was hesitant to cut the pipe, and it just wouldn't stay put because the water level (horizontal pipe/gate valve) is at the transition of the neck. There's just not enough room for adjustment. I don't know that I'd worry about the water level fluctuating too much, as you have an Osmolater, so it shouldn't be fluctuating by inches, right? I know it's a bit scary to cut, but if you cut that grey riser pipe down low (like leave 2-3 inches past the bend) and put your gate valve contraption there, then it should work much better. At least that's what worked for me...

06/24/2007, 04:23 PM	#780
markywmson Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Bristol, CT Posts: 303	I can try to get a shot of it... but I don't know how well it will come out.

06/24/2007, 08:37 PM	#783
markywmson Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Bristol, CT Posts: 303	that does definitely look better having the gate valve lower. As ppurcell says, that would be the best way to check and see how the water level changes your bubble production. My thinking is that your Osmolator keeps the water at a pretty constant level by turning on and off quite often. But it COULD still be an issue. That is closer to how mine looks, but still lower. However, this might be workable. What kind of connection do you have from the riser pipe to the gatevalve thing? Is is watertight (or as watertight as a sump install needs to be)? And for my own knowledge ppurcell... how does the riser pipe maybe keep the water at a constant level inside? It seems that there wouldn't be much difference with the gatevalve assembly if the water level is fluctuating in the sump compartment. Thanks! and Carlos... good luck

06/24/2007, 08:56 PM	#784
ppurcell Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Naperville, IL Posts: 2,911	markywmson, I cannot give a technical explanation, however it is somewhat intuitive. The gatevalve provides a rather specific amount of resistance to the pump resulting in a particular water volume through it. When you increase the water depth, the base water level in the skimmer rises the same amount but the gatevalve does not compensate for this. The result is that if the water level rises you either end up skimming wetter than you were or with a flooded collection cup. If the water level drops below the level you used to set the gatevalve then you either skim drier than you planned or maybe you get no skimmate at all. If your water level fluctuates a lot, then you may see all of these conditions. When using a standpipe, the water rises to a set height and leaves the skimmer at a faster or slower rate but always at the same height. In that way the pump is less affected by fluctuating water depth. I have also noticed that if the impeller is out of balance, then it may spin faster or slower resulting in a more or less water volume per unit of time. This can greatly affect water flow and in turn affect skimmate production in much the same way.

06/25/2007, 07:59 PM	#786
skwirl Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: tn Posts: 872	cee.... we need to get together.. we can probably help each other.. im doing alot of the same things.. i also have 2 opt 3000 pumps. 1 meshed, and running on my newly recirc modded euroreef cs8-2, and another just sitting. i have an idea.. shoot me a pm, or an email.

06/26/2007, 11:04 AM	#790
outy Moved On Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: auburn CA Posts: 4,021	both my mods got me 31 scfh and 35 scfh with the older pump. 3000 bored elbow out to 5/8 o-ring mod 1 needle wheel snapped of 3 layers pf4 with 4 zip ties jg fitting installed where the original air nipple was, drilled the air hole out to the id of normal ro/di plastic tubing [without drilling through the 90]

06/26/2007, 06:59 PM	#794
outy Moved On Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: auburn CA Posts: 4,021	yep the rma 7

06/26/2007, 10:18 PM	#796
carlos_fb Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Michigan Posts: 879	markywmson and ppurcell, I tried pretty much all you suggested and I still could not get it right so I gave up and put the riser stand pipe back. I will get a Recirculating 150 when I get a chance and I also plan to get a new sump with a fuge so I will need an external skimmer anyway. Thank you guys very much for your help!

06/27/2007, 12:16 AM	#797
outy Moved On Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: auburn CA Posts: 4,021	both meters are very accurate, the plumbing going into them is the only varible that could cause a 10scfh difference. i have a 1/4" jg push fitting on my rma 7 with a brass coupler attached to steel double threaded fitting [same size as entrance threads on meter] and theres nothing smaller then the 3/16" id of my ro/di tubing going into the jg fitting. probably why my numbers are so close to squin,s numbers, plumbed rite theres no reason the rma 7 cant give accurate numbers

06/27/2007, 11:58 AM	#799
outy Moved On Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: auburn CA Posts: 4,021	if your getting 28scfh then thats probably accurate numbers, im sure the larger meter wont give you 38

06/27/2007, 11:08 PM	#800
JCTewks Moved On Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Wilmington, Ohio Posts: 3,040	I really don't see why you shouldn't get 38SCFH out of an OTP3000. I'm getting 20SCFH out of an OTP1000 that is rated at 1/3 the output of the 3000. Rich Conley had at one point an OTP3000 pulling 50+SCFH. He couldn't even use that on his skimmer as it was way too much air for the DNW200. Are you guys reaming out the inside of the volute at all? or just tweaking the impeller and venturi?