chinese led lights - Page 32

TropTrea · 04/02/2012, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdivine

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aqua-Pro-150...ht_3395wt_1163
Would this be equivalent to a 250 watt Halide? Do you guys think Three of the 3g units or the Ebay version using CREE would be enough over a 220 Gallon tank?

The single cord is a little bit annoying, but I like that you can link these together. I would probably supplement the dusk to dawn with led strips.

I read the Specs
"10000-20000K white perform high PAR value "
The problem is they claim they are using CREE LED's and the highest Color Temp Cree makes a white is 5,000K to 8,300K so something here does not sound right.

They also claim the Blues are 450 to 475 nm and this can only be if they are using a 50/50 split between Royal Blues and Blues. This I actualy like.

However the 50/50 ratio between Blues and Whites to me would be way to white. I like more of a 3 or 4 blue to 1 white ratio myself.

999SCUBA · 04/02/2012, 09:14 PM

These are my ebay LED's

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdwB3UnDSKY

grizzlyguy · 04/03/2012, 01:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TropTrea

I read the Specs
"10000-20000K white perform high PAR value "
The problem is they claim they are using CREE LED's and the highest Color Temp Cree makes a white is 5,000K to 8,300K so something here does not sound right.

They also claim the Blues are 450 to 475 nm and this can only be if they are using a 50/50 split between Royal Blues and Blues. This I actualy like.

However the 50/50 ratio between Blues and Whites to me would be way to white. I like more of a 3 or 4 blue to 1 white ratio myself.

Because it is lie...
This lamp cant be Cree "inside"... Led chips looks another than should be - or they use old XR-E ... When I asked them for closeup photo - they stopped responding to my emails...

I think, that they are trying to use "magic key" word - CREE - and everybody will buy it without any thoughs...
It looks like lamp witch cheap china leds - like Nichia/Epistar - and weak tech parameters...
"cheap meat eat dogs"...

cdivine · 04/03/2012, 08:06 AM

Hard to say if it's a lie, but it does look fishy...
It's the same text and light as the eshine 3g and they can add cree to those lights. The Laboratory images could be any lab and ledlights .org doesn't seem to be working.

Having said that it looks like a pretty good light and a lot cheaper than the price I got from eshine on the 4g without the controller.

TropTrea · 04/03/2012, 10:45 AM

Well there is thing called truth in advertising. Perhaps the Blue LEDs in the fixture are Cree LEDs since the price of the Blue Cree LED's are now available below
$4.00 per LED with Star Mounts. Without the Sat mounts they can probably get them wholesale for a lot less in quantities then use there own mounting system. But what I worry about are the whites.

Cree Whte LED's XP-E's were just rerated since yesterday.
the Cool whites were rated at 5,000K to 8,300K but they just raised the ratings to 5,000K to 10,000K . Interestingly they added a R-3 Bin to the Cool Whites. Which could be pushing the 10,000K level.

However I personaly prefer the Neutral Whites which are rated at 4,000K to 5,300K because I believe they give a much better balance of Green to Red. Only to be surpassed by the 90 CRI White which seem inpossible to get your hands on with star mounts. Thiose that sell the CRI-90 whites only sell then by the reel of 5,000 units without star mounts.

Keep in mind that the star mounts are realy there for honniest and DIY projects. If I were producing a comercial LED fixture in any mass Quantity I would not be using STAR mounts., But building a combination heat sink printed circuit board to mount them.

jrp1588 · 04/03/2012, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grizzlyguy

Because it is lie...
This lamp cant be Cree "inside"... Led chips looks another than should be - or they use old XR-E ... When I asked them for closeup photo - they stopped responding to my emails...

I think, that they are trying to use "magic key" word - CREE - and everybody will buy it without any thoughs...
It looks like lamp witch cheap china leds - like Nichia/Epistar - and weak tech parameters...
"cheap meat eat dogs"...

My lights use epistar. I won't say they are top quality or anything, but I will say they 100% grow coral. I have seen more growth in my SPS corals in the month I've had these lights than I would see in 2 or 3 months with my ATI sunpower. With the frags I just got a couple weeks ago, you can actually see a small difference in growth day by day, at least around the base where it's encrusting.

biecacka · 04/03/2012, 01:40 PM

Glad to be following this thread as I'm thinking about buying some
Corey

TropTrea · 04/03/2012, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrp1588

My lights use epistar. I won't say they are top quality or anything, but I will say they 100% grow coral. I have seen more growth in my SPS corals in the month I've had these lights than I would see in 2 or 3 months with my ATI sunpower. With the frags I just got a couple weeks ago, you can actually see a small difference in growth day by day, at least around the base where it's encrusting.

there pads of variable is LED lights. Even the cheapest LED's if you put enough on the tank will give you good coral growth. But most people go to lLED's hoping on saving electricity and getting better florescent enhancement without loosing the reflective colors.

In all reality a quality 60 watt LED system would outperform a 117 Watt T-5 system and come close to a 250 Watt MH. However all LED systems are not the same. I have seen some 150 watt systems out there that are basicly equal to 156 Watt T-5 systems but still lack the reflective colors especial the reds.

What I realy hate is the they do not tell you exactly what LED's they are using. The royal blues and blues are on thing but when it comes to the whites there is a big difference.

In you tank a system with 4 Blues to 1 Nuetral white it will mook much whiter than a system with 3 Blues to one 1 Cool White. Yest so many comercial fixtures are running a 1 to 1 ratio which to me indicates that there whites ate not nearly as powerful as they should. On a 1 to 1 ratio with my neutral whites it is almost unnoticable if I turn off the blues.

Basicly thugh there are three seperate rating you can go with for LEDs

1. The growth they produce in the corals
2. The color balance to bring out the maximium florescense without washing out the reflective colors.
3. the actual amunt of electricity they are using to get the job done.

If you look at technicial data on specific LED's you will find that they are rated with lumns and the range is from 40 lumnins per watt all the way up to 130 lumins per watt. Unfortunatly this does not indicate color balance and generaly speaking the LED's with the best color balance.

An example just from CREE
XP-E-P3 CRI90 produces 74 Lumns per watt
XP-E-Q5 Neutral White produces 112 Lumns per watt
XP-E-R3 Cool White produces 122 Lumns per watt

Many Comercial fixtures are using the R-3 because it produces more lumns however it is a very blue LED and requires more to of them to bring out the reflective colors.

The other thing is the use of Warm whites to fool PAR meter readings. Warm whites are loaded with red light that is almost usless for corals and can eaisly cause burning in excess. Yet to give high PAR meter readings in there claims they will ocassionaly use them in some fixtures. This is where they put PAR meter readings ahead of actual coral growth to sell there fixtures based on the numbers. Note the terestial PAR lights which use the same PAR calculations as we do are mainly red to amber lights.

Lhewie · 04/03/2012, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ucyibd1

They came packaged very well. No damage.

Pictures of just the whites on and then just the blues on.

On the left is the lowest setting and on the right is the max.

Now keep in mind these pictures were taken with my iPhone and it is hard to explain how bright the lights are, the light is very intense and crisp. These fixtures have he Epistar led's in them. Coverage is good on my tank (48x24x24). The ripple effect on the sand bed is pretty mesmerizing too. The fans are just a bit quieter than what was in my T5 fixture. I guess the only real complaint I have is with the hanging hardware it is kinda hoaky but picking a hanging height is made easy due to the dimmers. Mine are 6" off the top of the tank and I may move them up a little. I made a DIY hanging setup by hanging a 48" long piece of conduit between cables on either end made of picture hanging wire, so I just clip the lights on the conduit, and I can move them side to side if I have to, works rather well for now. I really like the lights, they are pretty light and seem to be made well. Take it how you will but I think they will be just fine. I first saw these on Ebay, contacted the seller and he works for the company that makes them, and the rest is history. Hope this helps some of you if you are on the fence about them, either way it guides you. Have a good night and happy reefing.

Which kind are these? i cant find em on ebay =\

Ucyibd1 · 04/03/2012, 06:49 PM

I bought them direct from the manufacturer.

submersible · 04/03/2012, 07:37 PM

There is someone selling those in the for sale section also....

jg210302 · 04/04/2012, 09:53 AM

Eshines sent me so much information I am completely at a loss now! They have so many different configurations... Please give me some input guys...

I was going to order 2 of the 48X3 watt bridglux with controllers for a total of $742.00 shipped by DHL... For my 110 Tall...

Now I see they offer all of them in both the standard square and now the round arrays... They also have a 96X3 watt fixture, and a 168X3 watt fixture listed... I am thinking the 168X3 watt would be the way to go? Here are some of the PDFs they sent me... If anyone wants more info including the price list let me know and I will email it to you...

TropTrea · 04/04/2012, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jg210302

Eshines sent me so much information I am completely at a loss now! They have so many different configurations... Please give me some input guys...

I was going to order 2 of the 48X3 watt bridglux with controllers for a total of $742.00 shipped by DHL... For my 110 Tall...

Now I see they offer all of them in both the standard square and now the round arrays... They also have a 96X3 watt fixture, and a 168X3 watt fixture listed... I am thinking the 168X3 watt would be the way to go? Here are some of the PDFs they sent me... If anyone wants more info including the price list let me know and I will email it to you...

First I'm thinking about your 110 gallon tall tank. They used to make these 48" long 18" wide and 30" tall. So I will assume that that is what you have.

Cith CRee LED's I would recomend 72 3 Watt LED's. With Crees I'd also recommend a combination of 18 Neutral Whites to 27 Blue LEDs to 27 Royal LED's.

With Bridgelux I would recommend 92 LED's. With there white LED's usualy being 10,000K LED's I'd recommend a ratio of 32 whites to 60 Royal Blues.

However you do have the issue of the tank being 18" wide and 30" tall. Therefore I would definatly recommend that you make sure you have 40 degree lenses on each of the LED's.

The other thing is make sure they are running the 3 Watt LED's at the full 3 watt rating. The lower the wattage they are running at the more LED's you will need however they do run more effeciently at lower wattage.As an example running 92 LED's at 2.99 watts for a total of 275 Watts will give you the same amount of light as running 214 LED's at 800 ma for a total of 171 Watts on the Bridglux. My calculations for 92 LED's would be running them at 2.99 watts so if the run at a lower wattage you will need to compensate with more LED's.

Bridglux LED's normaly run at
250 MA 3.25Volts = 800 mW 43% intensity
400 MA 3.5 Volts = 1.4 Watts 63% intensity
700 ma 3.75 Volts = 2.6 Watts 95% intensity
775 MA 3.85 Volts = 2.99 Watts 100% intensity
850 ma 4 volts = 3.4 Watts 105% intensity

Also make sure there is good cooling for the bridglux LED's especialy if they are running at close to 3 watts, as they are more heat sensative than Crees at higher currents.

TropTrea · 04/04/2012, 11:43 AM

Reviewing your pictures if they are running at a full 3 watts each a pair of the 60X3 will be your best bet. If they are wunning at a lower wattage go to two of the 120X3's. But again if your 30" tall you want to make sure you have lenses on each LED and preferably 40 degree lenses. I'm also looking at the spread over the entire tank being even. The 2 48's you mention would work but you may have some fall out between fixtures and on the ends.

jg210302 · 04/04/2012, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TropTrea

First I'm thinking about your 110 gallon tall tank. They used to make these 48" long 18" wide and 30" tall. So I will assume that that is what you have.

Cith CRee LED's I would recomend 72 3 Watt LED's. With Crees I'd also recommend a combination of 18 Neutral Whites to 27 Blue LEDs to 27 Royal LED's.

With Bridgelux I would recommend 92 LED's. With there white LED's usualy being 10,000K LED's I'd recommend a ratio of 32 whites to 60 Royal Blues.

However you do have the issue of the tank being 18" wide and 30" tall. Therefore I would definatly recommend that you make sure you have 40 degree lenses on each of the LED's.

The other thing is make sure they are running the 3 Watt LED's at the full 3 watt rating. The lower the wattage they are running at the more LED's you will need however they do run more effeciently at lower wattage.As an example running 92 LED's at 2.99 watts for a total of 275 Watts will give you the same amount of light as running 214 LED's at 800 ma for a total of 171 Watts on the Bridglux. My calculations for 92 LED's would be running them at 2.99 watts so if the run at a lower wattage you will need to compensate with more LED's.

Bridglux LED's normaly run at
250 MA 3.25Volts = 800 mW 43% intensity
400 MA 3.5 Volts = 1.4 Watts 63% intensity
700 ma 3.75 Volts = 2.6 Watts 95% intensity
775 MA 3.85 Volts = 2.99 Watts 100% intensity
850 ma 4 volts = 3.4 Watts 105% intensity

Also make sure there is good cooling for the bridglux LED's especialy if they are running at close to 3 watts, as they are more heat sensative than Crees at higher currents.

TropTrea,

You are correct about the tank dimensions... I am so stuck now, for the cost should I just build my own fixture???

Thanks again,
Jeremy

TropTrea · 04/04/2012, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jg210302

TropTrea,

You are correct about the tank dimensions... I am so stuck now, for the cost should I just build my own fixture???

Thanks again,
Jeremy

Looking at your price list they do list CREE LED's but the two fixtures will run you roughly $700 plus shipping and handling.

You can reduce that in half with a do it yourself build nd even get a better assortment of LED's to cover the spectrum better. However it is time consuming. For me a build like this would take about 12 hours. Not knowing your skill I cannot say what it would take for you.

If you want help PM me and I'll help you as have for others. The had part where the cost varies by location is the grid work for mounting the LED's. I can give you the list of what you need but you need to find it localy.

bruce 1 · 04/04/2012, 07:36 PM

I have seen some of these LEDs that can be used with a APEX or Reefkeeper. Where can I get some of those? The ones I seen just had 2 wires out the back of the unit and you have to put the plug-in on it for either controller. They worked very well. And had a aluminum heat sink in them. Do any of these have the aluminum heat sink in them?

jrp1588 · 04/04/2012, 07:49 PM

My lights have an aluminum heatsink

bruce 1 · 04/04/2012, 07:54 PM

What about the dimmable? (with a controller)

bezlar · 04/04/2012, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lhewie

Which kind are these? i cant find em on ebay =\

I bought two of these last week, came in yesterday and I hung today. So far I think they look great. Paid $360 for both with shipping from china. I used the link a couple pages back to locate on eBay.

ReefJP80 · 04/04/2012, 09:31 PM

Anyone running these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251029486825...84.m1423.l2649

Is their a better option among the Ebay fixtures?

bezlar · 04/04/2012, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ReefJP80

Anyone running these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251029486825...84.m1423.l2649

Is their a better option among the Ebay fixtures?

Ya just hooked mine up today so far so good.

ReefJP80 · 04/04/2012, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bezlar

Ya just hooked mine up today so far so good.

How do the whites look? Are they really 16000k-20000k like the description states? Any pics?

sonofgaladriel · 04/05/2012, 07:21 AM

Anyone here purchased the Cidly Apollo series? Opinion?
I'm considering the Apollo 4 for me 30 gallon shallow cube anemone reef. Not too much actual experiences out there with this 'Apollo' system.

HurricaneSystem · 04/05/2012, 07:47 AM

Ok so my LFS had one of these 120W, 55 LED - 3W LED, units in stock yesterday. I bought it and took it home, hooked it up, and it runs great. The light output is VERY bright. My corals responded well within 15 minutes it seemed.

Now the light output is extremely bright with the white and blue lights on, 2 switches one for each. The coloration and spread is almost identical to my WavePoint 4 bulb (54w a piece bulb) T5 unit. It is just a lot brighter.

The shimmer is not remotely close to my Kessil A150W units. The Kessils have tons of shimmer, but for sheer brightness and coverage, these lights are very good. I am picking up another for the other side of my 55 gallon next week when it comes in. The fans are pretty much silent, 3 of them on top, aluminum heatsink under the casing. No dimmer switch, just two switches for blue and white, off an on.

These are supposed to put out as much as 400W metal halides. I had halides before and I don't doubt it a bit, these are very bright. Relatively 0 heat, just barely if you stick your hand underneath them. They are pretty heavy as well, I would guess 10 pounds per fixture.

I do not think one would cover a 55 gallon (normal 55) just because of the LED angle, they seem to all be pointing relatively straight down. If I mount it in the center, I still have about 4 inches on each side that looks dark.

However, it was 149.99 at my LFS. You couldn't find a better deal or a better light for that price. These are not made cheaply either. I am a stickler for quality and unless these implode tomorrow, I am liking it very much.

I will post some pictures of the fixture tonight beside of one of my Kessils. It is tough to get a good picture because of the color. Someone asked if these put out 14k light. I would have to say yes to that as they look just like my T5 which was a mixture of 2 10k and 2 Actinic.

04/03/2012, 10:45 AM	#780
TropTrea Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: SE Suburbia Wisconsin Posts: 2,910	Well there is thing called truth in advertising. Perhaps the Blue LEDs in the fixture are Cree LEDs since the price of the Blue Cree LED's are now available below $4.00 per LED with Star Mounts. Without the Sat mounts they can probably get them wholesale for a lot less in quantities then use there own mounting system. But what I worry about are the whites. Cree Whte LED's XP-E's were just rerated since yesterday. the Cool whites were rated at 5,000K to 8,300K but they just raised the ratings to 5,000K to 10,000K . Interestingly they added a R-3 Bin to the Cool Whites. Which could be pushing the 10,000K level. However I personaly prefer the Neutral Whites which are rated at 4,000K to 5,300K because I believe they give a much better balance of Green to Red. Only to be surpassed by the 90 CRI White which seem inpossible to get your hands on with star mounts. Thiose that sell the CRI-90 whites only sell then by the reel of 5,000 units without star mounts. Keep in mind that the star mounts are realy there for honniest and DIY projects. If I were producing a comercial LED fixture in any mass Quantity I would not be using STAR mounts., But building a combination heat sink printed circuit board to mount them. __________________ Dennis B. Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons

04/03/2012, 07:37 PM	#786
submersible Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Brandon, FL Posts: 317	There is someone selling those in the for sale section also.... __________________ Bill Current Tank Info: 180 gallon zoo

04/04/2012, 11:43 AM	#789
TropTrea Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: SE Suburbia Wisconsin Posts: 2,910	Reviewing your pictures if they are running at a full 3 watts each a pair of the 60X3 will be your best bet. If they are wunning at a lower wattage go to two of the 120X3's. But again if your 30" tall you want to make sure you have lenses on each LED and preferably 40 degree lenses. I'm also looking at the spread over the entire tank being even. The 2 48's you mention would work but you may have some fall out between fixtures and on the ends. __________________ Dennis B. Current Tank Info: Main tank 120 Gallon, 432 Watts T-5's plus 30 Watts of LED's, Frag 40 Gallon tank 234 Watts T-5's, 3 Frag tanks all 40 Gallon with LED lighting between 60 and 84 Watts. All LEDs are DIY Oh and then there is fresh water tanks 270 gallons

04/05/2012, 07:21 AM	#799
sonofgaladriel Shiny! Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,670	Anyone here purchased the Cidly Apollo series? Opinion? I'm considering the Apollo 4 for me 30 gallon shallow cube anemone reef. Not too much actual experiences out there with this 'Apollo' system. __________________ Its not who you are, but what you do that defines you.

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04/02/2012, 09:14 PM	#777
999SCUBA Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Posts: 61	These are my ebay LED's http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdwB3UnDSKY

04/03/2012, 08:06 AM	#779
cdivine Registered Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: South Bend, IN Posts: 45	Hard to say if it's a lie, but it does look fishy... It's the same text and light as the eshine 3g and they can add cree to those lights. The Laboratory images could be any lab and ledlights .org doesn't seem to be working. Having said that it looks like a pretty good light and a lot cheaper than the price I got from eshine on the 4g without the controller.

04/03/2012, 01:40 PM	#782
biecacka Registered Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Columbus Ohio Posts: 6,361	Glad to be following this thread as I'm thinking about buying some Corey

04/03/2012, 06:49 PM	#785
Ucyibd1 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Rockford Posts: 149	I bought them direct from the manufacturer.

04/04/2012, 07:36 PM	#792
bruce 1 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 207	I have seen some of these LEDs that can be used with a APEX or Reefkeeper. Where can I get some of those? The ones I seen just had 2 wires out the back of the unit and you have to put the plug-in on it for either controller. They worked very well. And had a aluminum heat sink in them. Do any of these have the aluminum heat sink in them?

04/04/2012, 07:49 PM	#793
jrp1588 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Evansville, IN Posts: 1,864	My lights have an aluminum heatsink

04/04/2012, 07:54 PM	#794
bruce 1 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 207	What about the dimmable? (with a controller)

04/04/2012, 09:31 PM	#796
ReefJP80 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Posts: 97	Anyone running these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/251029486825...84.m1423.l2649 Is their a better option among the Ebay fixtures?

04/05/2012, 07:47 AM	#800
HurricaneSystem Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: TN Posts: 528 Blog Entries: 1	Ok so my LFS had one of these 120W, 55 LED - 3W LED, units in stock yesterday. I bought it and took it home, hooked it up, and it runs great. The light output is VERY bright. My corals responded well within 15 minutes it seemed. Now the light output is extremely bright with the white and blue lights on, 2 switches one for each. The coloration and spread is almost identical to my WavePoint 4 bulb (54w a piece bulb) T5 unit. It is just a lot brighter. The shimmer is not remotely close to my Kessil A150W units. The Kessils have tons of shimmer, but for sheer brightness and coverage, these lights are very good. I am picking up another for the other side of my 55 gallon next week when it comes in. The fans are pretty much silent, 3 of them on top, aluminum heatsink under the casing. No dimmer switch, just two switches for blue and white, off an on. These are supposed to put out as much as 400W metal halides. I had halides before and I don't doubt it a bit, these are very bright. Relatively 0 heat, just barely if you stick your hand underneath them. They are pretty heavy as well, I would guess 10 pounds per fixture. I do not think one would cover a 55 gallon (normal 55) just because of the LED angle, they seem to all be pointing relatively straight down. If I mount it in the center, I still have about 4 inches on each side that looks dark. However, it was 149.99 at my LFS. You couldn't find a better deal or a better light for that price. These are not made cheaply either. I am a stickler for quality and unless these implode tomorrow, I am liking it very much. I will post some pictures of the fixture tonight beside of one of my Kessils. It is tough to get a good picture because of the color. Someone asked if these put out 14k light. I would have to say yes to that as they look just like my T5 which was a mixture of 2 10k and 2 Actinic.