Step-by-Step: Drilling Holes in Your Glass Tank for Bulkheads - Page 33

GoldStripe · 10/13/2007, 05:30 AM

Go for it joeyg4583, it's a bit intimidating / nerve racking at first but that quickly goes away.

bigbris1 · 10/14/2007, 12:25 AM

Thanks mainly to the great experience on this thread, I successfully drilled my Oceanic 40L today & plumbed it for a 13G custom acrylic sump. Everythings up & running, a bit noisy but running. Thanks!

dtaranath · 10/14/2007, 10:58 AM

JustOneMoreTank has truly added to the average hobbyist's experience by starting this thread. Money saved by drilling tanks can now be spent on something else!

Drilling glass seems so daunting before you do it, but it's actually very simple!

bigbris1- When you say "noisy", where is the noise coming from? Is it just the noise of water running, or does it actually sound like a toilet?

bdare · 10/16/2007, 02:30 PM

Just put my order in for drill bits. I'm going to drill my 40bdr. Pray for me

Onealjc · 10/19/2007, 11:51 AM

I have a 75g AGA not reef ready, how many holes will I need in for a fuge one hole for outgoing water and one for incoming correct? Also where should I place the holes the bottom or top of the tank, and what bulk head sizes will I need.

Sorry for the newb questions, first big tank.

bigbris1 · 10/19/2007, 05:03 PM

Quote:

[i]

bigbris1- When you say "noisy", where is the noise coming from? Is it just the noise of water running, or does it actually sound like a toilet? [/B]

Actually, my Quiet One 3000 was running louder than usual due to it's sucking in air from one of the connections-fixed with a small rubber band. Now it's as quiet as can be expected (just the sound of water running from the small hole in the durso).

danthemanj · 11/01/2007, 06:25 AM

I need some advice on drilling a 215 gallon Oceanic Ultimate tank. The tank is going to go in teh wall with the left and front of the tank viewable. I am planning on installing an Oceans Motions 4-way on teh tank and intend on bringing in the plumbing through the right glass pane. I will also be building an internal overflow on the right side pane from the top to bottom. Here is a link to a pic of the intended setup. In the pic, I am bringing in the return for the OM from the top through the floor of the Overflow and out through the bottom over the sand bed. this would need me to make several bends in the plmubing, hence increase head loss. Would it be OK to drill 4 holes about 2-3 inches from the bottom of the tank and bring in the OM through bulkheads through those holes? I will have 3 additional 1.5 inch bulkheads on the same pane of glass. 2 will be for the over flow and the 3rd will be for the feed to teh Dart pump I intend on running the OM on. I'm sceptical about the structural integrity of the glass pane with so many holes. It is 1/2 inch thick glass.

Link to image:

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...gLayout_v2.jpg

Spuds725 · 11/01/2007, 07:35 AM

I have no advice on your question, but you might want to post this in its own thread (if you haven't already) for greater visibility.

dtaranath · 11/01/2007, 11:13 AM

Hm. I think the four holes at the bottom might be too low. You are certainly endangering the structural integrity by having so many holes at the bottom. Any reason you can't use the long side that will be hidden?

The other issue is the number of bends you have. I would not recommend any drum for the oceans motions other than version 3. The other drums may not work with the resistance it will be facing.

Yet another thing to consider is another 1.5" drain to the Dart so there isn't as much suction on your current drain. If for any reason a fish gets caught on it or it gets clogged, you won't have any backup to supply your closed loop.

kirsto71 · 11/10/2007, 01:54 AM

I want to drill a couple of 15mm holes into a 4mm thick glass (1/8 inch - i think) sump for two horizontal level switches. Is this glass too thin to try to drill or is it just the same process all be it a little quicker. I figure the holes i am drilling will be small so they should not put too much strain on the glass.

sayn3ver · 11/24/2007, 12:21 AM

Hi, all.

i dove in tonight after reading through this thread. I am in the process of setting up (eventually in the end when all is said and done) 3 different tanks(have the tanks and most of the equipment, and one is near operational).

Anyways, i decided it was time to stop being chicken and just do this already. So tonight i drilled my first holes in one of the tanks. The tank is an AGA 33g Long (48x12x12).

This is going to be my red scooter blenny/macro algae tank with sump(s). Anyways, i planned on setting it up like Halophila's macro tank except where he has the liverock in the basket, I would have my drain/return going to my sump.

Here is an example of Halophila's tank.
[IMG]http://*******.com/6nw2fo.jpg[/IMG]

So i drilled a hole for the 1 inch drain and 3/4 inch return using the information on page 1 with the ebay diamond hole saws. The first hole came out close to perfect...but it took me almost 2 hours. Determined to finish this tonight, i started on hole 2 with alittle more speed and let the weight of the drill drive the progress rather than me supporting it like the first time. Everything was going good and i looked underneath to see if the saw had started making an outline in the ducktape i had applied (several strips all overlapping each other in the center for the most support) and i saw that it had. i slowly started to peel it off and i heard that glass cracking sound. Ugh, so it has a small flake on the inside.

I know that was long but i just wanted to say thanks for all the great advice. if i wasn't so impatient i would have 2 perfect holes instead.

Should i worry about the little flake that occured? is that going to be an issue later down the road as in a stress crack developing there?

Anyways, thanks again. Tomorrow i am going to take some sand paper and wetsand the holes to clean them up a bit.

hllywd · 11/24/2007, 08:34 AM

The "flake" probably won't be an issue. Does the bulkhead gasket cover it? if so no problem. If not reverse the bulkhead so the gasket is on the good side and it will be fine.
Honestly I can't imagine 2 hours to drill a hole, IME it takes maybe 1/2 hour setup to cleanup.... I've never tried tape on the back side but I do kind of like the idea.
I like the example tank you showed that looks like a great 'fuge!
Tim

sayn3ver · 11/24/2007, 11:39 AM

I was planning on 10-30 minutes tops per hole. I have a feeling a bulk of that time was me dirlling nothing as i think i went through long before but was waiting for some significant sign that I had, like cutting through the tape or something.

The flake isn't too big, but i don't have the bulkheads yet to test fit. I'd imagine it would be fine, i just was more worried about a crack forming.

Oh, and Halophila's tank is awsome. Thats an older pic of it but i really like the long shallow tank with side overflow vs the standard back wall style.

bdare · 11/24/2007, 12:50 PM

When I cut my holes a few weeks ago the first one flaked out like that too. For the second hole, I put tape over the area I was cutting. Next, I taped a piece of plywood over the hole. This helped the tape from flexing which allowed the flaking to occur.

The second hole came out PERFECT!

rivdog · 11/25/2007, 02:53 AM

justone, beautiful gray ghost

NevadaS. · 12/09/2007, 02:02 AM

Just for info Perfecto/Marineland/Aqua-Tech 10 gallon tanks are all tempered glass. Just busted the side out of one trying to drill it.

JustOneMoreTank · 12/10/2007, 06:42 PM

Rivdog... Thanks!

Glad everyone is still finding this thread useful.

FlamesFan · 12/25/2007, 11:48 PM

So I figured id post up my success story. After reading this thread over and over and finally getting around to ordering some cheap-o bits from that ebay guy people recommend here, I drilled out 3 one and a half holes on the bottom of my tank. One return and 2 for drain (herbie overflow)

Here`s some pics... all I can say is if you pound a beer right before you do it to calm your nerves everything will go fine

Tools used:
- milwaukee cordless drill on high speed (im possitive anyting that turns the bit will work just fine)
- Plumbers Toilet bowl setting ring thing to hold water. Worked great in retaining water and easily moved from hole to hole, and cost me a whole 0.88 cents at home depot
- 45mm glass cutting bit purchased from the ebay guy many people recommend in this thread
- One can of molson pilsner for the nerves.

JustOneMoreTank · 12/26/2007, 04:34 PM

Nice job.

mikejones · 12/26/2007, 06:57 PM

I think this thread should be a sticky on the top. btw GREAT thread JustOneMoreTank

Budde · 01/28/2008, 07:36 PM

How do I find out if all of the walls are Tempered?

jmart55 · 01/28/2008, 11:44 PM

Contacting the manufacturer is the safe bet. I once took a piece of glass top to a glass company, the owner had a pen sized tool that he scratched on the piece to determine if it was tempered. I have no idea what that tool was.
I'm on RC occasionally but did not find this thread till tonight. Within the last 3 weeks I have:
Ordered a stainless bit with carbide compound only to find it didn't give me the cutting confidence I desired.
Waited for my $80 USA made bit to arrive.
Cut four holes, with the last one being near perfect.
Upon removing the plywood jig I used managed to drop a C clamp and break my tank.
My stupidity knows no bounds.
Great thread guys!

socalchris · 03/13/2008, 09:36 PM

I just drilled my tank and got some small chippage/flake on the inside of the tank....the holes themselves though are pretty perfect looking...just the inside rim area...can anyone look at these pics and let me know what they think? I'd really appreciate it.

bleedingthought · 03/13/2008, 09:45 PM

Just go slower next time. On those, put silicone on the bulkhead (slip gasket all the way to the top first than put a 1/4" bead of silicone after the gasket all the way around the flange) and after tightening the bulkhead, let the silicone dry for 24 hours. Shouldn't leak.

socalchris · 03/13/2008, 10:07 PM

Okay, just so I'm clear, I'll use the pic below...same bulkheads I got from savko:

the gasket (obviously the black ring towards the bottom) gets the silicone on the flat side? and the flat side goes against the inside of the tank right? what exactly is the flange on a bulkhead? is it the top piece in the pic? the one that screws onto the back of the bulkhead outside of the tank?

10/14/2007, 10:58 AM	#803
dtaranath Premium Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Reading, PA Posts: 542	JustOneMoreTank has truly added to the average hobbyist's experience by starting this thread. Money saved by drilling tanks can now be spent on something else! Drilling glass seems so daunting before you do it, but it's actually very simple! bigbris1- When you say "noisy", where is the noise coming from? Is it just the noise of water running, or does it actually sound like a toilet? __________________ ______________________ 220g mixed reef

11/01/2007, 07:35 AM	#808
Spuds725 Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Toledo, Ohio USA Posts: 2,051	I have no advice on your question, but you might want to post this in its own thread (if you haven't already) for greater visibility. __________________ "I only have time to neglect one tank"-- Me "I don't want to achieve immortality through my work, I want to achieve immortality by not dying"-- Woody Allen Current Tank Info: 125G mixed reef with 135G Sump

11/01/2007, 11:13 AM	#809
dtaranath Premium Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Reading, PA Posts: 542	Hm. I think the four holes at the bottom might be too low. You are certainly endangering the structural integrity by having so many holes at the bottom. Any reason you can't use the long side that will be hidden? The other issue is the number of bends you have. I would not recommend any drum for the oceans motions other than version 3. The other drums may not work with the resistance it will be facing. Yet another thing to consider is another 1.5" drain to the Dart so there isn't as much suction on your current drain. If for any reason a fish gets caught on it or it gets clogged, you won't have any backup to supply your closed loop. __________________ ______________________ 220g mixed reef

11/10/2007, 01:54 AM	#810
kirsto71 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Mackay Queensland, Australia Posts: 195	I want to drill a couple of 15mm holes into a 4mm thick glass (1/8 inch - i think) sump for two horizontal level switches. Is this glass too thin to try to drill or is it just the same process all be it a little quicker. I figure the holes i am drilling will be small so they should not put too much strain on the glass. __________________ Cheers Marc Current Tank Info: 7x3x2 Reef Tank

11/24/2007, 12:21 AM	#811
sayn3ver Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: NJ 08109 (right outside philly) Posts: 407	Hi, all. i dove in tonight after reading through this thread. I am in the process of setting up (eventually in the end when all is said and done) 3 different tanks(have the tanks and most of the equipment, and one is near operational). Anyways, i decided it was time to stop being chicken and just do this already. So tonight i drilled my first holes in one of the tanks. The tank is an AGA 33g Long (48x12x12). This is going to be my red scooter blenny/macro algae tank with sump(s). Anyways, i planned on setting it up like Halophila's macro tank except where he has the liverock in the basket, I would have my drain/return going to my sump. Here is an example of Halophila's tank. [IMG]http://*******.com/6nw2fo.jpg[/IMG] So i drilled a hole for the 1 inch drain and 3/4 inch return using the information on page 1 with the ebay diamond hole saws. The first hole came out close to perfect...but it took me almost 2 hours. Determined to finish this tonight, i started on hole 2 with alittle more speed and let the weight of the drill drive the progress rather than me supporting it like the first time. Everything was going good and i looked underneath to see if the saw had started making an outline in the ducktape i had applied (several strips all overlapping each other in the center for the most support) and i saw that it had. i slowly started to peel it off and i heard that glass cracking sound. Ugh, so it has a small flake on the inside. I know that was long but i just wanted to say thanks for all the great advice. if i wasn't so impatient i would have 2 perfect holes instead. Should i worry about the little flake that occured? is that going to be an issue later down the road as in a stress crack developing there? Anyways, thanks again. Tomorrow i am going to take some sand paper and wetsand the holes to clean them up a bit. __________________ never say never Current Tank Info: AP24 in the works

10/13/2007, 05:30 AM	#801
GoldStripe Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jville, FL Posts: 1,136	Go for it joeyg4583, it's a bit intimidating / nerve racking at first but that quickly goes away.

10/14/2007, 12:25 AM	#802
bigbris1 Registered Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: New York City Posts: 75	Thanks mainly to the great experience on this thread, I successfully drilled my Oceanic 40L today & plumbed it for a 13G custom acrylic sump. Everythings up & running, a bit noisy but running. Thanks!

10/16/2007, 02:30 PM	#804
bdare Salty Dude Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Rockwall, TX Posts: 1,322 Blog Entries: 3	Just put my order in for drill bits. I'm going to drill my 40bdr. Pray for me

10/19/2007, 11:51 AM	#805
Onealjc Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 24	I have a 75g AGA not reef ready, how many holes will I need in for a fuge one hole for outgoing water and one for incoming correct? Also where should I place the holes the bottom or top of the tank, and what bulk head sizes will I need. Sorry for the newb questions, first big tank.

11/01/2007, 06:25 AM	#807
danthemanj Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: NJ Posts: 460	I need some advice on drilling a 215 gallon Oceanic Ultimate tank. The tank is going to go in teh wall with the left and front of the tank viewable. I am planning on installing an Oceans Motions 4-way on teh tank and intend on bringing in the plumbing through the right glass pane. I will also be building an internal overflow on the right side pane from the top to bottom. Here is a link to a pic of the intended setup. In the pic, I am bringing in the return for the OM from the top through the floor of the Overflow and out through the bottom over the sand bed. this would need me to make several bends in the plmubing, hence increase head loss. Would it be OK to drill 4 holes about 2-3 inches from the bottom of the tank and bring in the OM through bulkheads through those holes? I will have 3 additional 1.5 inch bulkheads on the same pane of glass. 2 will be for the over flow and the 3rd will be for the feed to teh Dart pump I intend on running the OM on. I'm sceptical about the structural integrity of the glass pane with so many holes. It is 1/2 inch thick glass. Link to image: http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...gLayout_v2.jpg

11/24/2007, 08:34 AM	#812
hllywd Premier World Traveler Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Ohio Posts: 4,293	The "flake" probably won't be an issue. Does the bulkhead gasket cover it? if so no problem. If not reverse the bulkhead so the gasket is on the good side and it will be fine. Honestly I can't imagine 2 hours to drill a hole, IME it takes maybe 1/2 hour setup to cleanup.... I've never tried tape on the back side but I do kind of like the idea. I like the example tank you showed that looks like a great 'fuge! Tim __________________ "The moment you doubt whether you can fly, you cease forever to be able to do it..." J.M. Barrie Current Tank Info: 210 AGA RR, Apex, 3x Kessil A360W & 2x 80W T5s, GEO 618 Ca Rx, BM220 CS2 skimmer, Tunze 6100s, 42" ETSS/AE Tech refugium/sump

11/24/2007, 11:39 AM	#813
sayn3ver Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: NJ 08109 (right outside philly) Posts: 407	I was planning on 10-30 minutes tops per hole. I have a feeling a bulk of that time was me dirlling nothing as i think i went through long before but was waiting for some significant sign that I had, like cutting through the tape or something. The flake isn't too big, but i don't have the bulkheads yet to test fit. I'd imagine it would be fine, i just was more worried about a crack forming. Oh, and Halophila's tank is awsome. Thats an older pic of it but i really like the long shallow tank with side overflow vs the standard back wall style. __________________ never say never Current Tank Info: AP24 in the works

11/24/2007, 12:50 PM	#814
bdare Salty Dude Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Rockwall, TX Posts: 1,322 Blog Entries: 3	When I cut my holes a few weeks ago the first one flaked out like that too. For the second hole, I put tape over the area I was cutting. Next, I taped a piece of plywood over the hole. This helped the tape from flexing which allowed the flaking to occur. The second hole came out PERFECT! __________________ 220 Mixed Reef GeoCaRx, GHL Profilux 4, Octopus Skimmer, Kessil 360X 2 x Maxspect Gyre XF350

11/25/2007, 02:53 AM	#815
rivdog Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: New england Posts: 336	justone, beautiful gray ghost

12/09/2007, 02:02 AM	#816
NevadaS. Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Winslow, AZ Posts: 8	Just for info Perfecto/Marineland/Aqua-Tech 10 gallon tanks are all tempered glass. Just busted the side out of one trying to drill it. __________________ Tom is my only friend. Current Tank Info: 55 gal. mini-reef-zoo's & shrooms, 2 perc's, 1 L.M. blenny, & the usual clean-up crews

12/10/2007, 06:42 PM	#817
JustOneMoreTank Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 967	Rivdog... Thanks! Glad everyone is still finding this thread useful.

12/25/2007, 11:48 PM	#818
FlamesFan Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Alberta Canada Posts: 378	So I figured id post up my success story. After reading this thread over and over and finally getting around to ordering some cheap-o bits from that ebay guy people recommend here, I drilled out 3 one and a half holes on the bottom of my tank. One return and 2 for drain (herbie overflow) Here`s some pics... all I can say is if you pound a beer right before you do it to calm your nerves everything will go fine Tools used: - milwaukee cordless drill on high speed (im possitive anyting that turns the bit will work just fine) - Plumbers Toilet bowl setting ring thing to hold water. Worked great in retaining water and easily moved from hole to hole, and cost me a whole 0.88 cents at home depot - 45mm glass cutting bit purchased from the ebay guy many people recommend in this thread - One can of molson pilsner for the nerves.

12/26/2007, 04:34 PM	#819
JustOneMoreTank Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 967	Nice job.

12/26/2007, 06:57 PM	#820
mikejones Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Oxnard Posts: 714	I think this thread should be a sticky on the top. btw GREAT thread JustOneMoreTank

01/28/2008, 07:36 PM	#821
Budde Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: New York Posts: 98	How do I find out if all of the walls are Tempered? __________________ --Josh

01/28/2008, 11:44 PM	#822
jmart55 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Illisconsin Posts: 172	Contacting the manufacturer is the safe bet. I once took a piece of glass top to a glass company, the owner had a pen sized tool that he scratched on the piece to determine if it was tempered. I have no idea what that tool was. I'm on RC occasionally but did not find this thread till tonight. Within the last 3 weeks I have: Ordered a stainless bit with carbide compound only to find it didn't give me the cutting confidence I desired. Waited for my $80 USA made bit to arrive. Cut four holes, with the last one being near perfect. Upon removing the plywood jig I used managed to drop a C clamp and break my tank. My stupidity knows no bounds. Great thread guys!

03/13/2008, 09:36 PM	#823
socalchris Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 761	I just drilled my tank and got some small chippage/flake on the inside of the tank....the holes themselves though are pretty perfect looking...just the inside rim area...can anyone look at these pics and let me know what they think? I'd really appreciate it.

03/13/2008, 09:45 PM	#824
bleedingthought Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Acworth, GA Posts: 422	Just go slower next time. On those, put silicone on the bulkhead (slip gasket all the way to the top first than put a 1/4" bead of silicone after the gasket all the way around the flange) and after tightening the bulkhead, let the silicone dry for 24 hours. Shouldn't leak. __________________ -Thiago-

03/13/2008, 10:07 PM	#825
socalchris Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 761	Okay, just so I'm clear, I'll use the pic below...same bulkheads I got from savko: the gasket (obviously the black ring towards the bottom) gets the silicone on the flat side? and the flat side goes against the inside of the tank right? what exactly is the flange on a bulkhead? is it the top piece in the pic? the one that screws onto the back of the bulkhead outside of the tank?