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10/25/2012, 09:17 PM | #826 | |
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10/25/2012, 09:25 PM | #827 | |
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10/25/2012, 09:41 PM | #828 | |
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It does. Though I think when you setup using "easy setup" it ramps them up at different times.
When you go they manual I think the first 5 is for ramping up the different colors and 6-9 is for ramping down if my memory serves me right. I haven't had the time to do my own yet (up to 30 timers, oh my) but I will say its highly customizable. You'll need to write them down. I honestly wish they had an export/import feature so we can share our lighting parameters with each other. I think it would be a really cool feature. Kevin Quote:
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10/26/2012, 04:44 AM | #829 |
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Sunset/Sunrise
Need a bit of help. I work swing shift, so I basically never get to see my tank. I want to have the lights turn on at 2PM and turn off at 2AM. Th controller is not allowing me to do this. I get an error reading "Sunset must be later than sunrise." Does anyone know how I can get around this and set the lights the way I'd like?
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10/26/2012, 06:28 AM | #830 | |
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10/26/2012, 07:35 AM | #831 | |
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Yes, the timers that are setup with Easy Setup ramp the darker colors first and the brighter colors last. So for example, the deep blue gets ramped up before the cool white. But on mine, all nine timers that are created by Easy Setup are all tied to the White LED, which is what's confusing me. My lights appear to be coming on properly, but it confuses me why all timers are tied to the white LED. |
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10/26/2012, 10:39 AM | #832 |
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I gotcha now. Maybe call or email AI?
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2 |
10/26/2012, 03:09 PM | #833 | |
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10/26/2012, 04:21 PM | #834 | |
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Might help if you list maybe the first 3 timers.. provide the following info:
Example: Timer, Time, Ramp, White, Blue, Royal D-Blue, Red, Green 01, 6:00am, 4:00, n/c, n/c, n/c 95%, n/c, n/c 02, 7:00am, 3:00, n/c, n/c, 95%, n/c, n/c, n/c 03, 8:00am, 2:00, n/c, 95%, n/c, n/c, n/c, n/c 04, 9:00am, 3:00, 60%, n/c, n/c, n/c, 25%, 40% What does yours look like? Quote:
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10/27/2012, 06:54 AM | #835 |
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So 1.5 weeks ago I purchased another Black Color Vega. This is number three over my 48x30x20 Tall tank. They are mounted parallel with the tank (- - -) vs horizontal ( | | | ).
What a difference the third one made! Better coverage, tank is lit up! I probably would have survived okay with two but three opens up more coral placement throughout the tank towards the edges. One thing I noticed was the fan was squeaky. I would have probably not cared if all three were like this but unfortunately the other two are dead silent (fan? What fan?) I decided no big deal ill test out AI Support. While I was at it I wanted a new power supply for my controller. The sensitivity fixed 90 percent of the issue, but I still felt when I cursored around it would miss every 4th hit or so. Another words if you learn the controller and get very comfortable with it you will notice the issue. Not a big deal of you do not know what you are looking for. It definitely seems its not getting enough juice. IPhone AC to USB adaptor works fine. I contacted support via their HelpDesk ticket system (support via support site) over the weekend. The parts were sent out on Tuesday USPS and I received them on Friday. They are in Iowa a I am in southern California. One week, that's fine with me. The light is working just the annoying squeaky fan. No directions on how to remove the fan. No directions online either. I am mechanically inclined so no big deal. I remove the plastic AI fan cover, next I remove the two fan screws. (Needs the star bit, not Phillips or flat head) I flip over the unit remove the four screws (star bit, different size from the fan..bigger) I trace the fan wire (only wire) and its GLUED in. WTH? Really? I pulled on it gently and it will not budge. Disappointed. Ill have to email support again. I will say this, the unit is as beautiful I'm the outside as it is on the inside. One set of wires is all! Changing the pucks out would be 4 screws plus two screws per puck. Anyhow is there a way to remove the glue easily or does this need to go back to AI? Thoughts? ImageUploadedByTapatalk1351342399.205608.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1351342370.305606.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1351342435.180058.jpg |
10/27/2012, 07:29 AM | #836 |
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Kajung2k,
I would use a heat gun to soften the glue a bit. Keep the glue gun setting at low and you should be fine. You could also use a hair dryer as well. Randy |
10/27/2012, 07:43 AM | #837 |
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If its like the SOL you should be able to push/prise the glue out with a screwdriver .I would hot glue gun or silicone the hole back up after to prevent any splashed water finding a way in.
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10/27/2012, 07:56 AM | #838 |
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Kajung2k,
I had the same problem with my fan. Just use force and rock it back and forth to get it out. No need to heat it. Don't be scared to break the old busted fan you are trying to get out. |
10/27/2012, 09:21 AM | #839 |
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@all - thanks. Great advice!! Ill try it later tonight.
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10/27/2012, 09:36 AM | #840 | |
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10/29/2012, 05:41 AM | #841 |
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ok so I have a question about the controller; that I finally got after having the lights for 3 weeks.
Does it have to be plugged in to work? As soon as I unplug it from the wall or the compyter it shuts itself off. How do I get it to turn on w/o being plugged in? And does it need to stay pluged in for the lights to run regularly? Or can I only plug it in when I want to make changes? |
10/29/2012, 08:37 AM | #842 | |
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Yes, the controller needs to be continually plugged in for it to work, and for it to control the lights. Without the controller on, the lights won't receive dimming commands, so if you unplug the controller, the lights will just stay in whatever state they're currently in. A bunch of folks were upset because they thought the whole "wireless" part of the controller being advertised was deceiving, but it is what it is, I guess. |
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10/29/2012, 08:55 AM | #843 |
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Well thats kind of a pain. Good thing I have extra slots on an EB8 that I can plug it into there.
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10/29/2012, 09:00 AM | #844 | |
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Cool. Just to be clear though, you don't need to plug it into the EB8 if you don't want to. Any outlet should work fine since you won't/shouldn't really be cutting power to the controller anyway. |
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10/29/2012, 09:14 AM | #845 |
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I dont have any outlets available anywhere else. So if that wasnt available, I was going to have to keep it across the room away from the rest of the tank equipment and controllers.
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10/29/2012, 11:18 AM | #846 |
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Don't plug it into an eb8 or anything else on the Apex bus!!
Those outlets are USB formatted but the voltage is NOT 5v (I think it's 12v). You'll fry your controller! |
10/29/2012, 11:19 AM | #847 |
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Don't plug it into an eb8 or anything else on the Apex bus!!
Those outlets are USB formatted but the voltage is NOT 5v (I think it's 12v). You'll fry your controller! |
10/29/2012, 11:29 AM | #848 |
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10/30/2012, 12:17 PM | #849 | |
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10/30/2012, 12:38 PM | #850 |
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Whew. I'm glad you were referring to the AC outlet and not a USB port. I do think it's still a good idea to have this warning int he forum in case another user thinks "oh, look at this convenient USB port on my Apex system!"
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aquaillumination, led, vega |
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