AquaIllumination PAR Measurements

[TheNomadRhodes]

I have a question, what happens if a LED burns out, how much would it cost to replace one?

[rostato]

Well, they shouldn't burn out because they are diodes. But if you lost a puck, you can replace it in like 5 minutes for about $20...

[reefsurfing]

4ft tank two modules, enjoy!

[NeonFish]

Originally Posted by TheNomadRhodes

I have a question, what happens if a LED burns out, how much would it cost to replace one?

submit a support ticket and AI will send a new one.

[TheNomadRhodes]

Originally Posted by rostato

You may need 6...honestly, until someone with a very deep (front to back) tries it, no one will know.

Welll hopefully here soon i will have a set on my 120 and i'm going to see if can get some one with a PAR meter to come over and get some readings, when i do I'll post them here can't wait to join the club

[JPMagyar]

Originally Posted by CalmSeasQuest

+1 on patience.

I've been 100% LED for about a year,

. . . . Red Planet, mine is mostly green with just a hint of pink, although it is just now beginning to improve.

Coloration has been the only issue (aside from the initial bleaching due to my ignorance of the PAR output of LEDs.) I've experienced great growth rates from both SPS and LPS.

. . . I expect we'll learn much more over the next couple of years as the DIY pioneers uncover the answers.

I Googled LEDs for growing plants since I figure indoor commercial plant growers would be all over this technology if it's good and here's what I found:

LEDs are not good for growing plants. Here's why:

1) They are NOT efficient, they only manage 40-50 lumens per watt. fluorescents and HIDS are in the 80-120 range.

2) LEDs do not put out light in the chlorophyll absorption bands... i.e. the light LEDs put out are very narrow banded and useless to plants. White LEDs are also fairly useless because the blue is too high in the spectrum, and they fade out before reaching the red spectrum chlorophyll requires.

Here we see a graph produced by National Semiconductor guest speaker from Future LEDs, with Philips Lumileds representative, and a nat semi engineer all in concurrence. It's a movie, I had to take a screen shot, the Future LEDs rep actually said "If you tried to grow a plant with this kind of light, it wouldn't grow very well."

I REALLY, REALLY want a reason to buy LEDs 'cuz I love the look, the electrical usage, and the controllability, but here's the question are any of the early adopters having second thoughts?


Thanks a bunch for such a great thread!




Joe

[rostato]

Originally Posted by jpmagyar

i really, really want a reason to buy leds 'cuz i love the look, the electrical usage, and the controllability, but here's the question are any of the early adopters having second thoughts?


Thanks a bunch for such a great thread!

Joe

zero!

[moliken]

why is it necessary for you to use a profilux controller, rostato? is the one that AI builds no good, or what?

[rostato]

Originally Posted by moliken

why is it necessary for you to use a profilux controller, rostato? is the one that AI builds no good, or what?

It's not necessary at all. But, I do feel that AI's controller does not do these lights justice. I honestly feel that the controller, and the rail system are the biggest flaws of these lights. Hence, I do not use either. The profilux is by far the easiest, and most powerful way to control these lights.

Just look at all the complaints other have had for the other controllers interface.

[MK Reefer]

Just curious as someone mentioned that you can order them with 70 degree optics all around. How do you do that? Is it a custom order direct from AI?

Mike

[lunner]

Originally Posted by rostato

I honestly feel that the controller, and the rail system are the biggest flaws of these lights.

I am happy with my AI rails.
I found the rail system to be very flexable. I didn't want to hang this off the ceiling.

Anyone getting rid of their 40 degree lens?

[BriGuy31+]

Originally Posted by lunner

Anyone getting rid of their 40 degree lens?

Check the selling forum. I think I saw some in there the other day. I'll take your 70s if you have some that you want to switch out.

[Rotknee]

Originally Posted by CalmSeasQuest

[Cut]

My "best guess" is along the lines of what AI has done with the SOL Blue pucks, combining the CW/B/RB. I've also seen some new testing using neutral white, adding in a bit of red and cyan that initially looks interesting (reflective) - it's just too soon to know the impact on growth and coloration. I have ordered optics and a variety of newly released color LEDS (red, cyan, near UV...) for the Maxspect that will allow me to continue "playing" with color variations.

This is both the boon and curse of LEDs. We're on the cutting edge, just past alpha testing. We know they are hugely efficient at growing corals, we just need to better understand the spectral needs and do some fine tuning to gain the maximum coloration. I expect we'll learn much more over the next couple of years as the DIY pioneers uncover the answers.

[/Cut]

Tom I thought you were using the Sol Blues? Anyway, this question is for you and rosato and any other users that upgraded to the Sol Blues.

Can we expect "slightly" better color improvement from the Sol Whites to the Sol Blues?

I just mounted my Sol Whites 9" ATWL (above the water line) and my first reaction was not as positve as I had hoped. Using the stock rails and sitting ~2" ATWL my tank appeared much more blue BUT I had a serious issue with spotlighting.

I am hoping to see an improvement in the color of my Acans and the few LPS's that I have.


-Rodney

[Rotknee]

Originally Posted by moliken

why is it necessary for you to use a profilux controller, rostato? is the one that AI builds no good, or what?

The stock controller works and works well. The Profilux (or any other controller that allows you to exploit the full capabilities of the lights) is so much better. Practically speaking, a good controller will take these lights to a whole new level.

[rostato]

Originally Posted by Rotknee

Tom I thought you were using the Sol Blues? Anyway, this question is for you and rosato and any other users that upgraded to the Sol Blues.

Can we expect "slightly" better color improvement from the Sol Whites to the Sol Blues?

-Rodney

I can only speak of my results, but I have seen a remarkable difference in coloration. Not just looks, but in my corals too. It turns out that my green slimer is actually a blue tipped green slimer. The blue tips showed up a few weeks after the upgrade. Also, my starry night acro that I have had for about 7 months was brought to me browned out, and I couldn't get it to color up under the SOL white, now, it is starting to live up to its name...starry. It's a nice glowing green. Other corals have shown a marginal improvement.

[rostato]

Originally Posted by lunner

I am happy with my AI rails.
I found the rail system to be very flexable. I didn't want to hang this off the ceiling.

Anyone getting rid of their 40 degree lens?

Sorry, but no offesne...my wife would kill me if I had my lights mounted like that. I mean ZERO disrespect, but you kinda proved my ugly rail point.

Again, no disrespect. Personal preference.

[lunner]

Non-taken Rotknee, How is your growth and color so far?

I never say it will be pretty, just functional without the style...

[Anemonebuff]

The railings don't look so bad. I had to look and see where you lived. I knew those were NYC plaster walls(circa 1920 or earlier). My Aunt and Grandmother have the same walls in Queens.

What length is the tank 48" or 60"?

[wickedfish]

He could always lower them and not use the legs.

Add a piece of wood on each side, then clamp each rail down to the wood using C-clamps.

By lowering them but less spread but then you don't have to work the lights at higher percentages. Just ideas I will post pics tomorrow of what I ended up with my canopy is also open on top and I have no light visible from the outside of the canopy.

[lunner]

Originally Posted by Anemonebuff

The railings don't look so bad. I had to look and see where you lived. I knew those were NYC plaster walls(circa 1920 or earlier). My Aunt and Grandmother have the same walls in Queens.

What length is the tank 48" or 60"?

Yeah this building is much older then me... It is those old NYC plaster walls and high ceiling that gives NYC that classic look. I did my railings this way so I could set the lights on top of an open top canopy, plus I could remove and adjust each module easily.

[Blue_Reef]

Just joined and might I say this is a great thread!!! Thanks to everyone that has contributed to it (and for motivating me to join).

I notice some posts back questions about supplementing AIs with UV stunners to achieve better spectrum coverage. I ended up doing this and think it has improved coral growth and color. I added 2 per AI module for 16 in total. Even with this many, they are still barely noticable to the eye at night over the AI blues at 1-2%.

[rostato]

Originally Posted by Blue_Reef

Just joined and might I say this is a great thread!!! Thanks to everyone that has contributed to it (and for motivating me to join).

I notice some posts back questions about supplementing AIs with UV stunners to achieve better spectrum coverage. I ended up doing this and think it has improved coral growth and color. I added 2 per AI module for 16 in total. Even with this many, they are still barely noticable to the eye at night over the AI blues at 1-2%.

pics of how you mounted them?

[BriGuy31+]

Originally Posted by Blue_Reef

Just joined and might I say this is a great thread!!! Thanks to everyone that has contributed to it (and for motivating me to join).

I notice some posts back questions about supplementing AIs with UV stunners to achieve better spectrum coverage. I ended up doing this and think it has improved coral growth and color. I added 2 per AI module for 16 in total. Even with this many, they are still barely noticable to the eye at night over the AI blues at 1-2%.

Which specific UV stunners did you add?

[Blue_Reef]

No pics handy but I'll take some tonite if I can remember.

All lighting is mounted inside a canopy that is raised and lowered with a chandelier winch. For the AI modules, I cutout holes that fit tightly around each module and built alumimum brackets to hold each from outside the canopy (the heat sink and fan extend outside thru the top of the canopy). On either long side of each module, I mounted the UV stunners inside of the canopy. There's also 13 panaroma modules, 6 par38 LEDs and a soon to be added LED cannon in there. It sounds like overkill but it's an odd shaped tank that is very deep. Only a canopy can keep all of these fixtures nicely tucked away /organized without having things look like a marionette show above the tank. The con is that the canopy weighs a ton, hence the winch.

The canopy is cooled / receives fresh air by 8 60mm fans blowing air in one side and 8 60mm fans blowing air out the other. None of the lights are ever more than slightly warm to the touch. There are also several darkroom vents in the canopy that allow for additional air movement (but don't allow light to escape).

[Blue_Reef]

The UV stunners are Ecoxotic's 6 watt 403nm Ultraviolet LED Strips.