CalcFeeder Basic/Pro - latest generation calcium reactor

[NAZ84]

One further trial I did which should also be important

Instantly after a degassing cycle , with both chambers look completely filled to the top and non trapped gassed under each lid , I pressed REFILL option and keep it running for 15 minutes

The mixing chamber starts getting filled with air !!


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[NAZ84]

- degassing cycle

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0g7D...yadh_-_Al_Waha

- start of refill option

https://share.icloud.com/photos/03Sb...yadh_-_Al_Waha

- almost 3 minutes after starting refill option

https://share.icloud.com/photos/09NQ...yadh_-_Al_Waha




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[Ted_C]

you have your set up a little differently than mine.

The valve that can be opened / closed to stop output - I have that close (like 5 cm) to the output of the media reactor. yours is near the input of the degassing chamber. no big deal I guess.

How did you cut the tubing? The tubing needs an absolute square cut and needs to be firmly inserted into the fittings. I myself used plastic pipe cutters and rotated the tubing around the blade to ensure I got an even square cut (I dont just squeeze down on the knife - instead I cut it like you would cut copper pipe - rotating the knife around the pipe squarely).

it looks like you either have a leak in the insert of the tubing into the co2 chamber or the lid to the co2 chamber is not sealed to the lip.

your videos also dont show the solenoid. Can you confirm the solenoid is closed when your in re-fill mode?

its also hard to tell from your video (since your moving too fast during the 1st refill video) - but confirm the wheel on the peristalic part is spinning in reverse from when your running it in degass mode? Clockwise? Counterclockwise?

[bobusc83]

Hello, Pacific Sun shipped me a replacement for the push connect fitting for the solenoid valve. I found out that it was leaking and in the process of lubing it and reinstalling, I overtightened and broke the fitting. It has been over two weeks and have yet to receive it. Does anyone know the brand and spec such as John Guest 1/4 in. O.D. x 1/8 in. NPTF Polypropylene Push-to-Connect Male Connector. This fitting did not work BTW. I appreciate the help.

[NAZ84]

- I took out all the pipe inserts and re cut them back with a sharp disorder making sure it’s a clean cut as you mentioned and plugged them back firmly again

- tried my best to check both lids and had a look at the rubber seal , cleaned it as well and put them back and tightened the screws all the way to the end ( further more I’m afraid I would crack it )

- again I did the test you mentioned which is closing the output and pressing the degassing option , I noticed when both chambers are %100 completely filled with water and air bubbles what so ever , after a while of the degassing mode small bubbles starts showing , but can’t tell where the leak or bubbles are being suck from !!

- observing for a while showing as well in the video below I noticed bubbles are coming under the CO2 input hole when degassing mode is on and output valve is closed , however in the same video as well you can see me closing the CO2 tube but still minor bubbles are coming in

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0ugO...yadh_-_Al_Waha


- regarding the solenoid yes it is closed during the refill I can see there is no light


- I also reopened the mixing chamber lid , checked it correctly and the rubber seal as well , everything seems ok and again tightened the screws to the max


I’m really frustrated and regret the hustle I’m going threw since more hen 6 months now , lost a number of frags due to high fluctuation in ALK

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0JHL...yadh_-_Al_Waha


https://share.icloud.com/photos/0Uf-...yadh_-_Al_Waha


https://share.icloud.com/photos/0ogN...yadh_-_Al_Waha


https://share.icloud.com/photos/0jE1...yadh_-_Al_Waha


https://share.icloud.com/photos/0sVR...yadh_-_Al_Waha


https://share.icloud.com/photos/0sDN...yadh_-_Al_Waha






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[Ted_C]

Thats your leak at 5:00 in the big video. your getting air in somewhere around the fittings for the circulation pump.

[Ted_C]

and another leak at 6:10 in the video - from the CO2 input.

[NAZ84]

Originally Posted by Ted_C

Thats your leak at 5:00 in the big video. your getting air in somewhere around the fittings for the circulation pump.

There is no water or moisture around it at all ?!




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[NAZ84]

Originally Posted by Ted_C

and another leak at 6:10 in the video - from the CO2 input.

Please advice , what’s your recommendations ?

- For the leakage around the pump input , shall I just take it off , use Teflon tape and that’s it ?

- For the CO2 input I have just taken out all the tubes again , starting from regulator all the way to the mixing chamber lid input , and recut them all sharply making sure a straight circle cut and put them back firmly again


Man I just wish to enjoy the setup for once and honestly regret buying the unit


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[NAZ84]

Originally Posted by Przemek_PacSun

It's not possible to damage unit (even on pressure above 15 PSI ) until effluent output from reactor is not closed(you had additional degassing chamber connected to reactor and this unit is equipped with valve). There is no other way to damage unit unit this valve is open, because any pressure increase in reactor chamber make effluent output proportional to increased pressure inside reactor. If valve (that plastic white/blue valve on output from DC column) is closed - there is no possible to equalize the pressure inside reactor and it can damage unit).

If both lids are properly tightened - only one way where you can get a leak is connection between solenoid valve and mixing chamber lid - because in this column you have "under pressure" effect - and due any leakages (like not completely putted tubings inside solenoid fitting) it will suck air to equalize pressure between external environment and internal mixing chamber.

Last idea which I have is that your Pharmed BPT tuning have small hole/is damaged and it pump some air together with water inside mixing chamber. In other way - there is any possibility that air will be inside. If it would be a problem with proper gluing you should see water coming out from reactor in not proper joining points.

Would appreciate your input on the latest findings


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[Ted_C]

For the CO2 input leak - make some soapy water (a few drops of dish detergent in a cup of water is all you need). Turn on the system and get the CO2 solenoid to open to start pumping in CO2. Then start placing the soapy water on every joint and connection from the CO2 tank to the reactor. A leak will be indicated by anyplace that you see bubbles forming. When I say every connection - i mean every connection. Even the regulator connection to the tank should be tested.

For the circulation pump - I had the same issue and documented it in Post # 779 through 783 / 784 in this thread. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...&postcount=779

[NAZ84]

Originally Posted by Ted_C

For the CO2 input leak - make some soapy water (a few drops of dish detergent in a cup of water is all you need). Turn on the system and get the CO2 solenoid to open to start pumping in CO2. Then start placing the soapy water on every joint and connection from the CO2 tank to the reactor. A leak will be indicated by anyplace that you see bubbles forming. When I say every connection - i mean every connection. Even the regulator connection to the tank should be tested.

For the circulation pump - I had the same issue and documented it in Post # 779 through 783 / 784 in this thread. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...&postcount=779

Just went threw your related post , to be even more amazed the post prior to you is exactly what happens to me , where by the way this was my 4th replacement reactor !!!

Anyways shall I just take the pump fittings out + add Teflon tape + PVC cement at the joints and try ?

Would it be enough ??

Regarding CO2 leakage , when I first got the new regulator there is a main test to do before running it , which is plugging all tubes and connections + opening all valves at determined volume + keeping the reactor idle with out operation for 15 minutes where eventually you make sure the pressure gage valve at first opening reading it exactly the same after 15 minutes

And it came to be correct , so can’t tell if there is more to do

Did you have the chance to notice my test in the previous videos closing the CO2 tube right before the lid input and still can observe some bubbles being generated ? Have a look at the below video at 1:40


https://share.icloud.com/photos/0pAP...yadh_-_Al_Waha


Also the video below is where again after all the previous mentioned adjustments I turned the REFILL option on for almost 1:30 hour and still didn’t fill the unit completely and you can see the input drip rate in both below videos

https://share.icloud.com/photos/08l3...yadh_-_Al_Waha

The vacant air pocket in the above video took more then 1:30 to fill out

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0Izy...yadh_-_Al_Waha



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[Ted_C]

no teflon tape. just plumbing solvent/glue. Be sure not to glue the union - so you can remove the pump in the future.

A pressure test is insufficient - use the soapy water - its a better indicator.

[NAZ84]

Originally Posted by Ted_C

no teflon tape. just plumbing solvent/glue. Be sure not to glue the union - so you can remove the pump in the future.

A pressure test is insufficient - use the soapy water - its a better indicator.

Will give it a try mostly tomorrow , ted can you kindly share a video of the gas mixture at the top of your mixing chamber please

Is it a mixture of tiny bubble fractions similar to a protein skimmer or just water splash circulating ?


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[Ted_C]

one thing I was thinking of - there's two sections to the fittings that are on the aquabee recirculation pump. one side is threaded (and yes - on the threads you want to use a sealant - i prefer pipe dope over teflon tape - but if thats all you have then thats all you have) and the connection of those fittings to the unions. If those connections between the threaded fitting and the union are loose - that's what your supposed to use plumbing solvent / glue on.

the interface between gas and liquid in my CO2 mixing chamber is bubbly.

[Przemek_PacSun]

Hello NAZ84,
Im sorry , I missed some posts here.
Mixing chamber "mixture" looks different on the start and different after few days. When water is fully saturated with carbon dioxide - its start looking like very tiny bubbles(because they are not dissolving in water so quickly anymore). In first hours/days - you will rather see a "waterfall" inside mixing chamber cause all small bubble are dissolving very quickly.
I dont have possibility to check all videos - but without doubt I think that you have problem between your co2 bottle and mixing chamber.do you have solenoid valve with plastic fittings or metal one?
Best regards

Przemek

[NAZ84]

Originally Posted by Przemek_PacSun

Hello NAZ84,
Im sorry , I missed some posts here.
Mixing chamber "mixture" looks different on the start and different after few days. When water is fully saturated with carbon dioxide - its start looking like very tiny bubbles(because they are not dissolving in water so quickly anymore). In first hours/days - you will rather see a "waterfall" inside mixing chamber cause all small bubble are dissolving very quickly.
I dont have possibility to check all videos - but without doubt I think that you have problem between your co2 bottle and mixing chamber.do you have solenoid valve with plastic fittings or metal one?
Best regards

Przemek

Hi Przemek

I have taken out all tubes starting from CO2 regulator all the way down to reactor output to the sump , recut them sharply making sure the head is straight and push it back firmly into each connection

The solenoid valve i have is the one with white plastic fittings

One more thing i did is as per the previous advices I received above , i have tightened the unions between the pump and the reactor at the bottom with a little extra twist , whats strange is that PH constant and stable at 6.17 since many hours now , that could mean something or might be just coincidence , anyhow i will add the glue to the union ends as an extra measurement and lets see how it goes

IMG_0117.jpg



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[Przemek_PacSun]

Originally Posted by NAZ84

Hi Przemek

I have taken out all tubes starting from CO2 regulator all the way down to reactor output to the sump , recut them sharply making sure the head is straight and push it back firmly into each connection

The solenoid valve i have is the one with white plastic fittings

One more thing i did is as per the previous advices I received above , i have tightened the unions between the pump and the reactor at the bottom with a little extra twist , whats strange is that PH constant and stable at 6.17 since many hours now , that could mean something or might be just coincidence , anyhow i will add the glue to the union ends as an extra measurement and lets see how it goes

Attachment 398369



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That version with plastic fittings is new one and if tube is cut sharply it should be 100% seal.
If fittings weren't tightened it was possible to suck air by the pump - and replace co2 with normal environment air what was equal to increased pH after some days of use.
Please let me know how it's working for you actually.
Merry Christmas!

BR

Przemek

[Alfrareef]

Hi Przemek,

I’ve decided to order a AC mini so be ready to help one more newbie... :-)
Merry Christmas!

[NAZ84]

Originally Posted by Przemek_PacSun

That version with plastic fittings is new one and if tube is cut sharply it should be 100% seal.

If fittings weren't tightened it was possible to suck air by the pump - and replace co2 with normal environment air what was equal to increased pH after some days of use.

Please let me know how it's working for you actually.

Merry Christmas!



BR



Przemek

Hi Przemek

I decided I will take out the unit completely and just ship it back to you if possible as I can no longer experiment more

Today I came home around 10 pm and decided to take out the pump completely , seal it properly and put it back

I added Teflon tape to the union threads on both sides ( which it didn’t have before ) , put them back on and tight them good , also added PVC glue to the end of each side

Let the glue dry for an hour and when I turned the unit back on the below video is what happened

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0xsR...yadh_-_Al_Waha

IMG_0816.jpgIMG_0818.jpgIMG_0817.jpgIMG_0823.jpg

As you can see in the second video as well the refill mode is on and still air is trapped on top and never goes out


I got so frustrated I can’t believe the hustle I’m going threw since more then 6 months now

Please have the unit back and do what ever inspections you prefer as I keep getting frustrated further every time I get a spare part to put on or fix and gets even worse , and can’t guarantee to fix it over here

The building material of these units are extremely fragile it seems it at least easily cracked threw shipping or rough handling

I will keep the controller and will use it on standalone mode , put back my old Karolin unit until you receive my complete set and decide how to fix it

Kindly let me know what’s the address details to ship back to




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[Przemek_PacSun]

Naz84
That teflon tape on thread are completely not needed - if you see - union fitting have silicon gasket on fronts and this thread are used only to make both parts of unit fittings tightened together.. It's not completely needed. I dont know why added(and where exactly) PVC glue, but as I said - most important is silicon gasket on each union (it should be placed correctly, without any debris under to be sure that it fit row properly - please look at the photo).
That teflon tape will only bring opposite effect - it will not tighten union properly and due this fact - put some additional air inside.
I think that you are worrying about something which is simply physical part of calcium reactor(this type). If during the day you noticed small pH swing (even if its 0.3-0.5pH difference) it could be normal( depending from media type - when its dissolving some neutral gasses are released and they need to be removed from reactor in degassing process). As it was mentioned above - all similar constructions require degassing also(Datsaco, Deltec) and if expect that pH will be stable at - for example 6.10pH without any changes for many days - it will not. Degassing is required, sometimes the best settings are for degassing every day(you dont have to worry about few ml of air which will stay under your lid - in overall situation it not affect anything)
Of course if you want to send it for inspection - you can, however please contact with our office@pacific-sun.eu or service@pacific-sun.eu firstly to get instruction how it should be send(on which condition to protect us and you against paying any taxes and Customs charge).
I have read your all posts, on last message you wrote that you had stable reading of ph for several hours, even if it started slowly growing for next hours - it's completely normal(thats why degassing mode is required in reactors like this).
Of course - we can check your reactor against any leakage using pressure chamber tests(we tests all products under high pressure oxygen - and putted under water where we can see any leakages by coming out bubbles). But if your "issue" is slowly coming up pH in reactor(between degassing modes) - it's normal situation and we will not be able to do anything with that. In "classic" type reactor are you putting CO2 in pump inlet - some neutral gasses are removed from reactor together with effluent (in almost 100% reactors effluent output is on the top of media chamber so you are not seeing that gas in reactor - and you can't measure that using pH computer).
In closed cycle reacotrs(like our CalcFeeder, Dastaco, Deltec etc) there are two columns - and degassing is needed to remove neutral gasses from mixing chamber and replace it with clean carbon dioxide - which again make pH lower in reactor).

Remember - that if you feel that reactor is sucking air - it can be done ONLY on one side of pump - that which coming in from mixing chamber.
Is your reactor placed in sump? or it stay outside ?
Please send mail to service and office - they will move it forward and take care about you.
Thank you.

@ALFAreef
Good :-), be sure that you will specify with your Distributor which version of controller you will get - V2(super silent) or V1.

[Przemek_PacSun]

Originally Posted by NAZ84

One further trial I did which should also be important

Instantly after a degassing cycle , with both chambers look completely filled to the top and non trapped gassed under each lid , I pressed REFILL option and keep it running for 15 minutes

The mixing chamber starts getting filled with air !!


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Last question - when have you changed Pharmed tubing on your controller? I asked you about checking tubings against any holes/leakage.
If your controller tubing is faulty and it put some air inside reactor during the work - sending us reactor body for checking is completely without any sense - we will not be able to check anything, because I'm 100% sure that reactor body is fine and dont need to by fixed.
Weak points on this what you are saying are:
- properly prepare tubings mounted inside solenoid
- pharmed tubing on controller - if its not 100% fine - it will suck some air during operation inside reactor body.
Have you replaced it lastly? If yes - when?

[NAZ84]

Originally Posted by Przemek_PacSun

Last question - when have you changed Pharmed tubing on your controller? I asked you about checking tubings against any holes/leakage.

If your controller tubing is faulty and it put some air inside reactor during the work - sending us reactor body for checking is completely without any sense - we will not be able to check anything, because I'm 100% sure that reactor body is fine and dont need to by fixed.

Weak points on this what you are saying are:

- properly prepare tubings mounted inside solenoid

- pharmed tubing on controller - if its not 100% fine - it will suck some air during operation inside reactor body.

Have you replaced it lastly? If yes - when?

Hi Przemek


the below info is what I’m about to send to your support team , hope it clears everything


Hi

Recently i was posting on Reef central (( Calcfeeder Basic/Pro - Latest generation calcium reactor )) the issues that i have been facing with my reactor since i last received it

Air is being sucked in and cant tell from where until recently it seems the union valve thread cracked and started leaking as below video after i took out it completely and resealed it correctly

the issue i have been facing since i got it was PH creeping up slowly with out never going down at all unless I degassing , although solenoid is working properly and injecting CO2 every-while but for sure air is pushed in as well

I did the following :

1- I bought a new CO2 electronic regulator just to make sure the previous one was not leaking , installed correctly , did a test for leakage and was ok

2- took out all HDPE tubes from connections , recut them vey sharply , and reconnect them firmly again , startling from CO2 regulator TO solenoid TO mixing chmaber CO2 input + controller suction from sump + controller water feeding TO mixing chamber + media chamber TO extra degassing chamber

3- Took out all the lids of both chamber + checked the rubber ring and made sure no Dupree or anything contaminating it + Put them back firmly and tightened the screws to the max

4- Filled both chambers to max with refill mode + the balance trapped air under the mixing chmaber lid is taken out threw degassing mode but still minor air is there


Observations after starting operation

1- It takes roughly 10 ministers to saturate with CO2 and till then Ph reading goes down all the way to 6.05 on average every time and at that point water level is exactly right under the optical sensor level (( Now all seems fine ))

2- The problem starts here (((( PH starts going up but water under optical sensor is rock solid stable and dose not go up at all + I can see the solenoid working every while injecting CO2 ))) how ever CO2 never goes down at from there

3- when i choose refill mode and turn it on for more then 2 hours , still there is a lot of air trapped under the mixing chamber lids


After reading the instructions of one fellow hobbyist who seems to have 2 same units 1 with PH probe , he mentioned he had the same struggle at the beginning and had to disassemble the hole unit again and put some glue on the union connections of the pump a the button and got the issue solved

What he posted of PH monitoring diagram is exactly what I’m trying to achieve and makes sense that the unit is working properly ((( By the way he keeps degassing on 1 time a week ))



If you look at the picture above it makes % 100 sense that PH fluctuates and rises up but goes down as soon as CO2 is injected back again due to optical sensor monitor ((( Please bare in mind i never mentioned PH should be % 100 stable at one figure NOT AT ALL )) but when its goes up it means water level in mixing chmaber is increasing gradually as well WHERE AS SOON AS THE OPTICAL SENSOR TRIGGERS AND SOLENIOD OPENS TO FILL CO2 IT GOES BACK AGAIN UNDER THE SAME RANGE


This the point that i keep on trying to mention and it seems the support team is understanding something else , i really admire the product and want nothing else but the same exact product working properly thats it


After all the above mentioned information and frustration I’m going threw I hope its clear , and to prove that the above observations are correct my ALK reading keeps dropping where at one point i have reached above 5 L/H of dosing volume and it keeps dropping so it is very obvious the unit is not working at properly and air is sucked in for sure and its not a matter of degassing at all

I Hope its finally clear



Best regards


Naif Abdulaziz Al Zaben
P.O.Box 9068 , Ar Riyadh - 11413
Kingdom of Saudi Arabia



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[NAZ84]

Originally Posted by Przemek_PacSun

Last question - when have you changed Pharmed tubing on your controller? I asked you about checking tubings against any holes/leakage.

If your controller tubing is faulty and it put some air inside reactor during the work - sending us reactor body for checking is completely without any sense - we will not be able to check anything, because I'm 100% sure that reactor body is fine and dont need to by fixed.

Weak points on this what you are saying are:

- properly prepare tubings mounted inside solenoid

- pharmed tubing on controller - if its not 100% fine - it will suck some air during operation inside reactor body.

Have you replaced it lastly? If yes - when?

Regarding the tubing I changed it with a complete new one and it seems very tight also on both ends so I think it should not be the issue , but anyhow thats why I’m considering to ship the controller with the unit for check up as well


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[NAZ84]

I’m taking the complete unit out because the leak is not stopping at all and put back my old one , I received a reply saying that currently service team is on holiday so i would like to save time and just ship the complete setup now , so when they are back to work they would have it received and save time please


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