Bio Cube Owner's Thread - Page 38

casualreefer · 03/25/2009, 02:22 PM

Well i just got myself a 29g biocube. i had a 24g nano and it started leaking so i had to upgrade. everything came out of the 24 nano into the biocube. i read a little bit of this thread but wow is it long. i have the upgraded lighting (144w pc) from nano tuners but a ballast went out so i am running a 2 bulb T5 homemade fixture for now. anyways i like this tank better already. here are 2 pics for now. my new naked clown!

i wanted to turn the 2nd chamber into a fuge but im lost on what light i could use for it. also any decent skimmers that are decent price. i just read a little about the bc skimmer and am looking for a used one. any questions or comments please SHOOT. i look forward in being part of this thread. thanks again.

Jake

Rob_Reef_Keeper · 03/25/2009, 02:33 PM

I finally got some corals in my tank and I do not like the color they show. The tank they came out had 14K DE 250W MH's over it. I have the standard lighting 10K and Actinic. I want more color out of the corals. I am thinking about the 3 x 36 or 4 x 36 light kits from Nanotuners.

if I did the 3x36 kit and add one actinic bulb making 2 x actinic 1 x 10K will that get much more color out of the corals?

if I did the 4x36 kit and add one actinic bulb and 1 50/50 making 2 x actinic 1 x 10K and 1 x 50/50will that get much more color out of the corals?

Any other light bulb combinations better? I want to keep the stock hood to keep the tank covered (2 young kids that like to throw things).

Anyone have these upgrades? Is there a heat problem?

chrismunn · 03/25/2009, 02:55 PM

casualreefer you can use any type of light you want for the fuge so long as it doesnt raise the temp. too much

rob_ , i dont know what corals you have but chances are they wont ever look the same in your tank as they did in the tank they came from no matter how many PC bulbs you add. obviously more bulbs are better and i would suggest going that route if you want to keep the stock hood, but the intensity put off by a PC is so much less that a MH that there is no comparison. i would just add as many PC's as you can. the heat will go up, but lets face it, its impossible to keep even a stock tanks tempurature down without a chiller or fans...

casualreefer · 03/25/2009, 03:11 PM

i know i can use any light, i wasn't sure if most people were using a specific fixture that worked well with the bc tanks.

Jake

chrismunn · 03/25/2009, 04:03 PM

im using the JBJ k2 150w HQI metal halide on mine, but i had to get rid of the hood to use it. i really didnt want to get rid of the hood, but its a metal halide, you cant argue with a metal halide!

jkrentz2515 · 03/25/2009, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Rob_Reef_Keeper

Anyone have these upgrades? Is there a heat problem?

My tanks' temp dropped 2 degress after installing the nanotuners 144w upgrade. The fans that come with the kit keep the hood alot cooler.

Rob_Reef_Keeper · 03/25/2009, 04:21 PM

I dont want MH on this tank. I dont have the electric to run a chiller either. So if I add 2 more bulbs Would changing out the stock fans be enough? The house temp will be ~70.

Rob_Reef_Keeper · 03/25/2009, 04:22 PM

For example - watermelon zoas - I got them from the sellers tank then put them in mine and they dont show hardly any color. I know they will never be the same but will any coral really color up with just PC's?

jkrentz2515 · 03/25/2009, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Rob_Reef_Keeper
I dont want MH on this tank. I dont have the electric to run a chiller either. So if I add 2 more bulbs Would changing out the stock fans be enough? The house temp will be ~70.

I would think so.

Rob_Reef_Keeper · 03/25/2009, 04:28 PM

what light combo would get some color out of the corals?
additional:
10K and another actinic
2 x 50/50
50/50 and actinic
10k and 10k

jb61264 · 03/26/2009, 07:47 AM

I know this has probably been posted throughout this thread somewhere, but I can't find it...what is the best method for removing the false bottom in chamber #1?...of course, my BioCube 29 is currently running so I'm looking for a method that wouldn't disturb the tank too much...thanks!

Octoberfest · 03/26/2009, 08:20 AM

Coral color can change in your tank. With my 150 watt sunpod fixture I've put corals in there that looked like crap and a month later the color came out great in them. Same thing can happen with PC's, just give it time and let them get used to your tank.

Fals bottom removal....push like crazy, it will come loose.

jkrentz2515 · 03/26/2009, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jb61264
I know this has probably been posted throughout this thread somewhere, but I can't find it...what is the best method for removing the false bottom in chamber #1?...of course, my BioCube 29 is currently running so I'm looking for a method that wouldn't disturb the tank too much...thanks!

needlenose pliers will pull it right out.

jkrentz2515 · 03/26/2009, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Rob_Reef_Keeper
what light combo would get some color out of the corals?
additional:
10K and another actinic
2 x 50/50
50/50 and actinic
10k and 10k

The more "blue" you go the more intense/unrealistic color you will get, but to keep it looking natural I would go with the 50/50 and actinic.

I have 2 10k's and 2 actinic and I think my corals look great, but everyone has different preferences.

sweetrav18 · 03/26/2009, 12:58 PM

what is the benefit of removing the false botomn in the chamber?

Rob_Reef_Keeper · 03/26/2009, 01:12 PM

ti be able to fit a heater in that chamber for one.

hotrod797 · 03/26/2009, 04:54 PM

When I removed the false floor in chamber one I found there to be a major nitrate issue under there, the pump doesn't pull everything out of there so it just gets stuck and you can't get anything down in there to clean it out. That's the main reason I pulled out my false floor, now that I can clean in there regularly nitrates are almost non existent

jb61264 · 03/26/2009, 05:41 PM

so i was finally able to remove the false bottom in chamber #1 and did a 4 gallon water change...part of the water i pulled out i siphoned from the bottom of chamber #1...wow...no wonder my nitrates were high...there was so much crap that had collected in there i couldn't believe it...i will definately be checking that area for water changes in the future

jb61264 · 03/26/2009, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by sweetrav18
what is the benefit of removing the false botomn in the chamber?

in addition to putting a heater in chamber #1, i know others put carbon and ChemiPure in that chamber as well...others will also modify chamber #1 further by blocking the input of the lower grating so that there is only surface skimming...after seeing the crap that has been collecting on the bottom of chamber #1 when I removed and did a water change tonight, i may just block that input as well

sweetrav18 · 03/27/2009, 09:45 AM

excellent responses...definitely something to think about

hotrod797 · 03/27/2009, 06:53 PM

Yeah, I never imagined it would be that nasty under there, that is a really poor design by oceanic if you ask me, my nitrates we around 80 all the time, it drove me nuts, I was almost ready to tear the tank down and start over, then I found that and now 3 water changes later, nitrates are almost gone....

RANGER69 · 03/27/2009, 09:33 PM

Rob_Reef,
I have the 144w upgrade. the fans work great they really keep the Temp. down. if you can $ buy the fan controler it's worth it. You can keep the fans on with the lights off and keep the temp. down. I have 2-actinic, 1-50/50 and 1-10K. I like the colors and I like the colors of my corals. I posted my DIY MOD to chamber 2 on page 33 or 34. The light I used was a 9w fluresent from Lowes hardware store. It worked for me if you have any questions feel free.

jb61264 · 03/27/2009, 11:08 PM

just thought i would post that after removing the false bottom to chamber #1, i took a dremel tool to it and removed all the grating portion of it and replaced the basic "frame" portion of it...you may be asking why i did this

well, I sort of like the idea of running this cut to fit carbon filter padding that I found in the original piece that slides in groove in chamber 1...i pulled out all the floss and original carbon to that piece and now put the cut to fit carbon filter in the four squares...you have to have the original "frame" of the false bottom in order to force water up through the filter...just having the entire false bottom removed will allow water to flow up and under the filter piece. Anyway, now I can have both the filter piece AND the heater in chamber #1

jonnybravo22 · 03/28/2009, 11:17 AM

how do you block the bottom intake in chamber 1 so that teh top intake is more of a surface skimmer / pulls harder?

jmadison · 03/28/2009, 01:43 PM

Does anyone have comments with regard to the blocking of the lower intake?
Do you notice better skimming?
Is there many CONS or only PROS?
And also id like to know how you did it.

03/25/2009, 02:33 PM	#927
Rob_Reef_Keeper Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Garnerville, NY Posts: 551	I finally got some corals in my tank and I do not like the color they show. The tank they came out had 14K DE 250W MH's over it. I have the standard lighting 10K and Actinic. I want more color out of the corals. I am thinking about the 3 x 36 or 4 x 36 light kits from Nanotuners. if I did the 3x36 kit and add one actinic bulb making 2 x actinic 1 x 10K will that get much more color out of the corals? if I did the 4x36 kit and add one actinic bulb and 1 50/50 making 2 x actinic 1 x 10K and 1 x 50/50will that get much more color out of the corals? Any other light bulb combinations better? I want to keep the stock hood to keep the tank covered (2 young kids that like to throw things). Anyone have these upgrades? Is there a heat problem? __________________ Rob Current Tank Info: 60G Cube, AI SOL Blue, Octopus XP-1000SSS skimmer, Old tank: 29Oceanic Biocube

03/25/2009, 02:55 PM	#928
chrismunn Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 4,200	casualreefer you can use any type of light you want for the fuge so long as it doesnt raise the temp. too much rob_ , i dont know what corals you have but chances are they wont ever look the same in your tank as they did in the tank they came from no matter how many PC bulbs you add. obviously more bulbs are better and i would suggest going that route if you want to keep the stock hood, but the intensity put off by a PC is so much less that a MH that there is no comparison. i would just add as many PC's as you can. the heat will go up, but lets face it, its impossible to keep even a stock tanks tempurature down without a chiller or fans... __________________ Marine Aquarists Association of South Texas Austin Reef Club PBITAWA... Current Tank Info: 14g bio cube

03/25/2009, 04:03 PM	#930
chrismunn Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 4,200	im using the JBJ k2 150w HQI metal halide on mine, but i had to get rid of the hood to use it. i really didnt want to get rid of the hood, but its a metal halide, you cant argue with a metal halide! __________________ Marine Aquarists Association of South Texas Austin Reef Club PBITAWA... Current Tank Info: 14g bio cube

03/25/2009, 04:21 PM	#932
Rob_Reef_Keeper Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Garnerville, NY Posts: 551	I dont want MH on this tank. I dont have the electric to run a chiller either. So if I add 2 more bulbs Would changing out the stock fans be enough? The house temp will be ~70. __________________ Rob Current Tank Info: 60G Cube, AI SOL Blue, Octopus XP-1000SSS skimmer, Old tank: 29Oceanic Biocube

03/25/2009, 04:22 PM	#933
Rob_Reef_Keeper Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Garnerville, NY Posts: 551	For example - watermelon zoas - I got them from the sellers tank then put them in mine and they dont show hardly any color. I know they will never be the same but will any coral really color up with just PC's? __________________ Rob Current Tank Info: 60G Cube, AI SOL Blue, Octopus XP-1000SSS skimmer, Old tank: 29Oceanic Biocube

03/25/2009, 02:22 PM	#926
casualreefer Moved On Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Nw Burbs of Chicago Posts: 1,152	Well i just got myself a 29g biocube. i had a 24g nano and it started leaking so i had to upgrade. everything came out of the 24 nano into the biocube. i read a little bit of this thread but wow is it long. i have the upgraded lighting (144w pc) from nano tuners but a ballast went out so i am running a 2 bulb T5 homemade fixture for now. anyways i like this tank better already. here are 2 pics for now. my new naked clown! i wanted to turn the 2nd chamber into a fuge but im lost on what light i could use for it. also any decent skimmers that are decent price. i just read a little about the bc skimmer and am looking for a used one. any questions or comments please SHOOT. i look forward in being part of this thread. thanks again. Jake

03/25/2009, 03:11 PM	#929
casualreefer Moved On Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Nw Burbs of Chicago Posts: 1,152	i know i can use any light, i wasn't sure if most people were using a specific fixture that worked well with the bc tanks. Jake

03/25/2009, 04:28 PM	#935
Rob_Reef_Keeper Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Garnerville, NY Posts: 551	what light combo would get some color out of the corals? additional: 10K and another actinic 2 x 50/50 50/50 and actinic 10k and 10k __________________ Rob Current Tank Info: 60G Cube, AI SOL Blue, Octopus XP-1000SSS skimmer, Old tank: 29Oceanic Biocube

03/26/2009, 07:47 AM	#936
jb61264 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Planet Earth Posts: 1,112	I know this has probably been posted throughout this thread somewhere, but I can't find it...what is the best method for removing the false bottom in chamber #1?...of course, my BioCube 29 is currently running so I'm looking for a method that wouldn't disturb the tank too much...thanks! __________________ In the end (and the begining) we're all just stardust anyway... Current Tank Info: 75 gallon SPS reef/55 gallon sump/6x54W TEK T5HO/Reef Octopus 200 Extreme Skimmer/Reef Octopus Single Chamber Calcium Reactor/RKL

03/26/2009, 08:20 AM	#937
Octoberfest Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: NC Posts: 1,350	Coral color can change in your tank. With my 150 watt sunpod fixture I've put corals in there that looked like crap and a month later the color came out great in them. Same thing can happen with PC's, just give it time and let them get used to your tank. Fals bottom removal....push like crazy, it will come loose. __________________ 29 gallon bio-cube with 150w metal halide sunpod fixture, stock 14 gallon bio-cube

03/26/2009, 12:58 PM	#940
sweetrav18 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: chicago, IL Posts: 530	what is the benefit of removing the false botomn in the chamber?

03/26/2009, 01:12 PM	#941
Rob_Reef_Keeper Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Garnerville, NY Posts: 551	ti be able to fit a heater in that chamber for one. __________________ Rob Current Tank Info: 60G Cube, AI SOL Blue, Octopus XP-1000SSS skimmer, Old tank: 29Oceanic Biocube

03/26/2009, 04:54 PM	#942
hotrod797 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Northern Kentucky Posts: 95	When I removed the false floor in chamber one I found there to be a major nitrate issue under there, the pump doesn't pull everything out of there so it just gets stuck and you can't get anything down in there to clean it out. That's the main reason I pulled out my false floor, now that I can clean in there regularly nitrates are almost non existent

03/26/2009, 05:41 PM	#943
jb61264 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Planet Earth Posts: 1,112	so i was finally able to remove the false bottom in chamber #1 and did a 4 gallon water change...part of the water i pulled out i siphoned from the bottom of chamber #1...wow...no wonder my nitrates were high...there was so much crap that had collected in there i couldn't believe it...i will definately be checking that area for water changes in the future __________________ In the end (and the begining) we're all just stardust anyway... Current Tank Info: 75 gallon SPS reef/55 gallon sump/6x54W TEK T5HO/Reef Octopus 200 Extreme Skimmer/Reef Octopus Single Chamber Calcium Reactor/RKL

03/27/2009, 09:45 AM	#945
sweetrav18 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: chicago, IL Posts: 530	excellent responses...definitely something to think about __________________ Never confuse effort with accomplishment!

03/27/2009, 06:53 PM	#946
hotrod797 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Northern Kentucky Posts: 95	Yeah, I never imagined it would be that nasty under there, that is a really poor design by oceanic if you ask me, my nitrates we around 80 all the time, it drove me nuts, I was almost ready to tear the tank down and start over, then I found that and now 3 water changes later, nitrates are almost gone....

03/27/2009, 09:33 PM	#947
RANGER69 Moved On Join Date: May 2008 Location: FLORIDA Posts: 49	Rob_Reef, I have the 144w upgrade. the fans work great they really keep the Temp. down. if you can $ buy the fan controler it's worth it. You can keep the fans on with the lights off and keep the temp. down. I have 2-actinic, 1-50/50 and 1-10K. I like the colors and I like the colors of my corals. I posted my DIY MOD to chamber 2 on page 33 or 34. The light I used was a 9w fluresent from Lowes hardware store. It worked for me if you have any questions feel free.

03/27/2009, 11:08 PM	#948
jb61264 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Planet Earth Posts: 1,112	just thought i would post that after removing the false bottom to chamber #1, i took a dremel tool to it and removed all the grating portion of it and replaced the basic "frame" portion of it...you may be asking why i did this well, I sort of like the idea of running this cut to fit carbon filter padding that I found in the original piece that slides in groove in chamber 1...i pulled out all the floss and original carbon to that piece and now put the cut to fit carbon filter in the four squares...you have to have the original "frame" of the false bottom in order to force water up through the filter...just having the entire false bottom removed will allow water to flow up and under the filter piece. Anyway, now I can have both the filter piece AND the heater in chamber #1 __________________ In the end (and the begining) we're all just stardust anyway... Current Tank Info: 75 gallon SPS reef/55 gallon sump/6x54W TEK T5HO/Reef Octopus 200 Extreme Skimmer/Reef Octopus Single Chamber Calcium Reactor/RKL

03/28/2009, 11:17 AM	#949
jonnybravo22 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,128	how do you block the bottom intake in chamber 1 so that teh top intake is more of a surface skimmer / pulls harder?

03/28/2009, 01:43 PM	#950
jmadison rebmeM deretsigeR Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: PHX, AZ Posts: 1,426	Does anyone have comments with regard to the blocking of the lower intake? Do you notice better skimming? Is there many CONS or only PROS? And also id like to know how you did it. __________________ -Keyser Söze- By three methods we may learn wisdom: First, by reflection, which is noblest; Second, by imitation, which is easiest; and third by experience, which is the bitterest. -Confucius Current Tank Info: Construction Zone