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12/05/2014, 07:47 PM | #76 |
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This looks good
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00013...=AC_SY200_QL40 A low rpm motor time-controlled by my Apex would do it. It uses a rubber paddle wheel to dispense and create a barrier. |
12/05/2014, 07:53 PM | #77 |
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This type sprays but I can modify it. It has a motor already
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000VE...=AC_SY200_QL40 |
12/05/2014, 10:05 PM | #78 | |
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Quote:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Road-Runn...B-RR/202353199 and alkalinity http://www.poolsuppliesca.com/pvc-50...ound-aaa-8600/ can be purchased at local pool supply and save the shipping! I use dosing pumps (the expensive part) with my Apex.
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"...for it is not necessary that these hypotheses should be true, or even probably; but it is enough if they provide a calculus which fits the observations..."--Introduction (attributed to Andrew Osiander) to On the Revolutions of the Heavenly Sphere by Nicolaus Copernicus. Current Tank Info: 600g DT, 140g sump, 200g Cryptic, 90g Refugium, 3-400w MH, 2 Reeflo Barracudas, and 3 MP60s |
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12/06/2014, 12:36 AM | #79 |
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I have dosing pumps, but I thought there was a lot of measuring and mixing to get the parts right?
Guys - going to two part won't be any different compared to kalk. The powder is a very concentrated calcium and Alk. That's not the issue. If I dosed two parts, I would be dosing just as heavily. I don't have an imbalance. The components have been the same for months. I suspect that while traveling, the kalk is running out prematurely requiring more water to maintain my levels. This reduces my salinity and dumps the excess into the drain. I could add kalk more frequently or automate it (powder dispenser? Lol) Adding salt achieves the goal. |
12/06/2014, 10:56 AM | #80 | |
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Quote:
You wouldn't be dosing any less CA or Alk to the tank but you would be able to eliminate flushing water down the drain which is the big issue of system stability all of us keep bringing up. Keep the kalk reactor for ATO to help buffer things. Use two part dosed via your apex to maintain CA and ALK (if alk is dropping you can dose a higher concentration, usually it is the other way around though). You could dose extra two part via your ph probe if you wanted then to boost levels when needed. The benefit is that it wouldn't require adding so much water and causing the loss of salt from the system. You would also be able to set up a dosing pump for trace elements that would mitigate the lack of water changes while you are away since your space constraints don't allow for an auto water change system. There are stable reef tanks that have ran for years without water changes here on RC so it works. But I agree that water changes are always good for stability of a system. I know we keep so I'll leave it at this and only continue to comment on the salt dispenser as it develops. |
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12/06/2014, 11:09 AM | #81 |
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Someday in the future people will program a robot to do the job for them.
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12/06/2014, 11:27 AM | #82 |
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12/06/2014, 01:15 PM | #83 |
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Adding two part is the same or more liquid as supersaturated kalk water. The argument for two part isn't scientific or objective. Unless you've done the math and can demonstrate it, please stop beating the wrong dead horse.
Being a popular solution doesn't make it better for everyone. I'm going to post this exact question in the chemistry forum. If you're an expert, please go there to comment. Here: salt or powder addition... |
12/06/2014, 01:25 PM | #84 |
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12/06/2014, 01:54 PM | #85 |
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Here's a patent for a salt dispenser for popcorn machines. Don't know if you'd find one out there but it is at least designed to deal with salt dispensing. been around for a while.
http://www.google.com/patents/US3253747 |
12/06/2014, 02:03 PM | #86 |
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Here you go. Industrial dispensers for salt and other stuff for food preparation industries.
http://www.marchantschmidt.com/powder_dispensing.html |
12/06/2014, 02:31 PM | #87 |
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Thanks zack. I realize that solid dispensers exist in industrial settings. I'm trying to replicate this at low cost. Super accuracy isn't important.
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12/06/2014, 02:55 PM | #88 |
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Ok, so you need to find an auger and tube from somewhere and a motor to drive it and attach that to a hopper. I liked the soda bottle design posted earlier maybe super size that using a bottled water dispenser jug. put a small air inlet hole in the bottom (now top when in place) and connect that to an air dryer (like used on ozone setups) to pull the moisture out of air coming into the container and hopefully eliminate moist air getting pulled back in thru the auger as much as possible.
What kind of fabrication skills do you have? I think all the parts touching salt would want to be plastic so maybe pvc pipe to house the auger and use a T for attaching the bottle to. a couple end caps, motor and a frame to hold it all. wood fame would be easy to construct and low cost. maybe something like this, not sure how big it is though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plastic-Auge...item3a8c5ca83e |
12/06/2014, 03:04 PM | #89 |
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You'd also need something to keep the salt feeding down into the auger, from the hopper. Maybe an old vibratory sander mounted to the frame would do the trick and shake things up a bit.....
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12/06/2014, 03:13 PM | #90 |
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I can do PVC, DC motor and the 5 gallon water container. I can get an auger and I have desiccant for the intake.
The problem is keeping the outlet moisture free. It's essentially just the auger in a PVC pipe. How would that keep humidity out? |
12/06/2014, 03:41 PM | #91 |
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Some sort of cap and rubber seal I guess that would need to be actuated by a motor prior to dispensing salt, or possibly just spring loaded, and the salt just pushes it open as it is dispensed?
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12/06/2014, 04:44 PM | #92 |
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I like the idea of the salt pushed by the auger opening the barrier. It is convenient (only one motor). I could mount the auger vertically in a PVC pipe that ends in a 90 elbow. Then use a rubber flap (from a toilet flush valve?)
What holds the flap tight against the pipe? In a flush valve, the weight of the water forms a seal. Here, I'd expect the flap to remain open or partially open due to salt that hasn't fallen out yet. |
12/06/2014, 05:35 PM | #93 |
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I would think you would need a hefty spring set up some how to go that route. the mechanized door might be simpler and more reliable even though it needs an extra motor.
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12/06/2014, 10:57 PM | #94 |
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Settled on this. It has a built in motor and auger.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004BL...=AC_SY200_QL40 It'll probably need some DIY work to adapt it. Should have it next week. |
12/07/2014, 12:08 PM | #95 |
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12/07/2014, 12:49 PM | #96 |
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I used the same mechanism in my surge actuator. The idea is to use two PVC pipes that have little clearance or an o-ring to seal.
I used V1...V4 on my Apex and a relay box to turns +ve and -ve DC to the linear actuators. That's where all the work is. Since all my Vs are being used, I cant use a linear actuator without another module $$. Last edited by karimwassef; 12/07/2014 at 01:00 PM. |
12/07/2014, 12:52 PM | #97 |
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12/07/2014, 02:59 PM | #98 |
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I hope the answer you got over in the reef chemistry forum has gone some way to convince you that it would be way easier to do 2 part.
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12/07/2014, 04:52 PM | #99 |
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I think the auger in PVC would work well given that it would work with a single motor. Adding a silicone or rubber lining to the inside of the PVC for two turns' length would be better. Finally, if the PVC was tilted so that the last turnof the auger is well evacuated by gravity, there wouldn't be any residual salt to get wet.
If I were to DIY from scratch, that's what I would try first. The cat feeder will be my first try. I'll post pics as soon as I can. |
12/07/2014, 05:17 PM | #100 |
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Balling method with doser
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Tags |
diy, salinity, salt mixing |
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