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#76 | |
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Location: S.E. Florida Deerfield Beach
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that's enough air and I don't know exactly how to say this - I'll just get to the point - If you research your sump setup and have everyone vote - I believe the conclusion may be that you are running a nitrate factory.
Maybe I am wrong, but at this point in reefkeeping I believe everyone has gotten away from filter pads and bioballs. Quote:
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#77 |
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Location: Dallas, Texas
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Jnb, your point is well taken. In all my research about the sump set up I also came to the conclusion that I'm running a nitrate factory.
I also have a very heavy fish load in my 250G tank. Powder blue tang - large Yellow tang - XL Regal tang-XL Kole tang-L Coperband butterfly - L Magnificent foxface - L Dwaf lion fish -M 4 gobies (3M, 1L) 1 dragonet, 2 damsels 3 large clown fish Did I forget someone? So the reason for the bioballs is so that I can quickly convert the waste to nitrates. Then I'm hoping the de-nitrifier will take the nitrates out. Is there any merit to my reasoning? Feel free to shoot holes..
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...You are free... because of the BRAVE... Current Tank Info: 300G reef, 800lb LR, APEX, Deltec AP702, LEDs, PF601, KM500, UV, RODI, Ozone, carbon, Biopellets |
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#78 | |
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that is a nice load - you meant nitrites down further - and IMO I think you are better eliminating the pads and the bio balls as long as you have enough rock to convert ammonia to nitirites - if you decide to do so - remove some balls every couple of days till they are gone - and at least cleans the pads and letting the sulfur hardware effluent to the pads/bio balls - is sort of not right - just let the effluent drain somewhere near the skimmer intake
based on all my study - this is what I recommend Quote:
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#79 |
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I have 600 lbs of live rock in the tank.
I thought the live rock converts the ammonia to nitrites, and... the bioballs (via aeration - drain tank water running thru them) will convert nitrites to nitrates and... the Sulfur De-nitrifier will convert Nitrates to Nitrogen gas and out of the water column... Do I have it all wrong?
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...You are free... because of the BRAVE... Current Tank Info: 300G reef, 800lb LR, APEX, Deltec AP702, LEDs, PF601, KM500, UV, RODI, Ozone, carbon, Biopellets |
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#80 |
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Also, I understand the reasoning being against bioballs. Bioballs get dirty and become their own nitrate factory.
But, why are you against a regularly cleaned filter pad? How else can I "trap" debris that comes down from the tank? Don't some people use a sock in their sump?
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...You are free... because of the BRAVE... Current Tank Info: 300G reef, 800lb LR, APEX, Deltec AP702, LEDs, PF601, KM500, UV, RODI, Ozone, carbon, Biopellets |
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#81 |
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Location: Jacksonville, FL
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The live rock will also convert nitrite to nitrate and (to some degree) nitrate to nitrogen.
Live rock is probably the best "filtration" system you can use.
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Jeff Current Tank Info: 125 gallon bare-bottom reef, 6' Maristar light, Tunze streams, 55 gallon sump, ASM G3 skimmer, RDSB |
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#82 | |
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cool, lots of rock - and you are right - the bioballs and pads do harbour debris but you are cleaning your pads so I back up a notch - when I had pads and they caught little pods, etc - i felt bad so I took out all pads and letter the skimmer pull what it can, with real good water movement my sump floor catches debris not pulled by the skimmer and I vacumn the sump floor when doing water changes
i am only against pads if they are not cleaned and also I won't use them because alot of what they are catching I would lke to go back to the tank - pods, and other stuff I can not see that is beneficial as food. Yes some people do amd many of the best reefers out there - but do the majority of the best reefers - not sure but don't think so. Quote:
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#83 |
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Sorry for asking here, but how are bioballs going to create more nitrates than live rock with the same amount of input nitrites? The only benefit/difference I'd see would be the anaerobic processes going on inside the rock at the same time. Those obviously aren't high enough to affect the situation substantially as people still have nitrates even with ~3lb/gallon live rock while continuously adding nutrients.
skydancer, as for your ph, have you tried the taking a cup of tank water and aerating for an hour with indoor and also a cup aerated with outdoor air? That's the only way to know the answer to "do I have enough aeration?" If the ph changes, then the answer is no. If the ph doesn't change, then the answer is yes and something else needs to be looked at, like alkalinity. The reef buffer is a quick fix and should not be a long term solution.
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"When I get sad, I stop being sad and be awesome instead. True Story." Current Tank Info: 29g Mixed Reef with Metal Halide |
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#84 | |
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they don't create nitrate, they just have no zone of converting nitrite to nitrate and harbour debris which exacerbates the issue - it is pretty much documented if you search RC
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#85 | |
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"When I get sad, I stop being sad and be awesome instead. True Story." Current Tank Info: 29g Mixed Reef with Metal Halide |
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#86 | ||
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EDIT: But wet/dry filters work extremely well for FO systems where reasonably elevated nitrates are not dangerous to (most) fish. |
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#87 | |
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given the quality of what RC offers (not necessarily from me) the search function is very valuable - if it works - which it does if you become a premium member - it is well worth whatever it cost 25 or 35 - I forget a year is it? that is if you are always looking solutions, I'll have to bow out of the bio balls discussion as I do not have enough experience to argue my believes (which may very well not be valid)
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#88 | ||
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Dilution is a poor method to attempt the reduction of nitrates. Skimming will not reduce them (it indirectly reduces the causes, but not directly). And less feeding may not be possible.
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"When I get sad, I stop being sad and be awesome instead. True Story." Current Tank Info: 29g Mixed Reef with Metal Halide |
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#89 | |
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"When I get sad, I stop being sad and be awesome instead. True Story." Current Tank Info: 29g Mixed Reef with Metal Halide |
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#90 | ||
catch and release
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FWIW it looks to me like your question was answered very well. I really don't see why you feel like you are being talked down to. Chris
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"Try to learn something about everything and everything about something" -- Thomas H. Huxley Current Tank Info: 70 gallon mixed reef |
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#91 |
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My original question was "how are bioballs going to create more nitrates than live rock with the same amount of input nitrites?" Which is impossible.
I asked that after seeing them called nitrate factories, like that's a bad thing. It's exactly what you want them to be. I felt talked down to when the topic went from nutrient amounts like I'd brought up to "how bioballs work". Especially after mentioning the anaerobic zone qualities of live rock.
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#92 | |
catch and release
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"Try to learn something about everything and everything about something" -- Thomas H. Huxley Current Tank Info: 70 gallon mixed reef |
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#93 | |
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Good points billpa
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I also believe that in lightly-stocked systems and in reeftanks, bioballs simply aren't needed with the amount of rock usually being used, in that case they only serve as a trap for detritus and do generate nitrates from the trapped materials. I think you're right about the anaerobic processes in the rock, but for most tanks that is probably, like you said, not going to make a huge difference in nitrate reduction. Of course for some systems (any heavily-stocked FO system-- like my clown system mentioned earlier), live rock does not provide enough surface area or air/water interface for proper oxygenation and habitat for nitrifying bacteria--but bioballs can do both, and like you say, their job IS making nitrates. Of course this leads to a nitrate build-up that is costly and time-consuming to control with water changes, so I guess that's why I'm watching this thread! As far as preventing nitrates, I'm not going to reduce my feeding, and I doubt others will want to either, but skimming (especially with ozone I'm finding) surely helps prevent the eventual formation of nitrates (although doesn't directly remove them), and mechanical filtration (if cleaned frequently) will prevent lots of material from breaking down. HTH -Matt |
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#94 | |
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siffy - I promise - it does work - maybe even more than 99% of the time - you can contact RC membership and they will confirm or do a global thread somewhere - can't even guess how many dollars it has saved me and life saved or better nutured (I guess it also has made me spend money)
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#95 | |
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I think we have a consenses that bioballs is not a good thing for reef tanks even the heavily stocked ones because they trap detritus and other things that decay... So I'm thinking of slowly removing them, again. But without bioballs which elements in the reef would convert amonia to nitrite and then to nitrate? If it is live rock then what BillPA wrote "LR and LSB are low oxygen environments acting as a de-nitrifier" is not the environment to convert amonia to nitrites. I'm very clear on the "last step" of the nitrogen cycle and the denitrifier's ability to convert nitrates to nitrogen via a low-oxygen environment. I guess am trying to understand the high-oxygen vs the low-oxygen environment in the reef without bioballs. 1) Amonia to Nitrite is done by _______? 2) Nitrite to Nitrate is done by _______? 3) Nitrate to Nitrogen is done by the _______ and partially by the Sulfur De-nitrifier. Can someone fill in the blanks above? De-Nitrifier UPDATE: Day 14: a couple of days ago I increased the drip rate to about 5 drops/sec. The effluent still measures ZERO or very close to it for Nitrates. The tank water's Nitrates are still at the 30-50 level.
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#96 | |||
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Liverock and livesand are both aerobic and anaerobic environments. It just depends if you're talking about their surface (or relatively close to) or their inner portions. Quote:
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The inside of your liverock and lower portions of a deep sand bed are anaerobic (low or no oxygen because the water in it doesn’t get turned over multiple times per hour) and will act with denitrification properties. Without the sulfur addition, this process is hindered as the denitrification will produce O2 gas in addition to N2 gas and water. The nitrobacters have to use up the O2 again before going back to NO3 for their source. When the sulfur is present N2 and SO4 compounds are the bulk created keeping the environment no oxygen instead of low oxygen. Pretty pictures here, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrogen_cycle And more info, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denitrification This has been my general understanding, and would love for someone with a chemistry degree correct me if I'm wrong or misunderstanding something as I may be.
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#97 |
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Thank you Siffy, very good summary.
So I've decided. Bioballs are gone, but slowly...
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#98 | |
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Quote:
![]() As far as dilution being a poor method to attempt to reduce nitrates...I'm not sure what data you have to back that up. I have many times reduced my nitrate levels significantly with consecutive and sometimes large water changes. Skimming will reduce them indirectly. You are taking out organics before they can break down. How hard is that to understand? And yes less feeding may not be possible...but it also may be possible ![]() ![]() The point is...there are many ways to reduce nitrates...if bioballs work for you...more power to you. |
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#99 |
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Biilpa, just to keep the record straight..
I was the one asking questions about bioballs since I'm currently using them in my reef. So you may be a little confused as to Siffy's comments. I don't think he endorsed the use of bioballs. But neither here nor there, this thread started as a Sulfur DeNitrifier discussion and evaluation of the units. Logman17, Jnb and I have bought Sulfur Di-nitrifier's from Midwest Aquatic and we are comparing notes, experiences, progress and results. Thank you all.
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...You are free... because of the BRAVE... Current Tank Info: 300G reef, 800lb LR, APEX, Deltec AP702, LEDs, PF601, KM500, UV, RODI, Ozone, carbon, Biopellets |
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#100 | |
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I just received my nitrate test and will test tonight; I know I am starting with less nitrate then some and midwest has told me, in that case, my denit. unit may take a little longer to get going - but it has been almost two weeks so I expect 0 out of the unit and 5-10 in the tank. I have notied my ph is dropping a bit - but this may be in part to the rowaphos i installed sunday but I think this happens too, when the denit. unit starts becoming effective (with bacteria pulling out 02, etc)
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