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03/11/2013, 08:20 PM | #1126 | |
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Location: San Diego, California
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Quote:
I've been running my SR260 600mm since July of last year over my 93 gallon cube tank (30"x30"x24"). I had a Maxspect before the Illumina. So far, I have my royal blue topping out at 80%, blue at 68%, white at only 15% (personal preference) while watching my corals very carefully. With one multicolor module added, I have everything on that module started at 20% with the exception of the red leds which I will keep at 8% because it's such a dominant color. I bump all multicolor module leds up 2 to 3% every three days and will observe my corals carefully. My watermelon chalice on the bottom of the tank is showing signs of bleaching on the exposed portion not shaded by either rocks or other corals, but that happened even before the addition of the multicolor module. I just moved it in the shade...problem solved. I dose zeobac and zeostart (not using full zeo system) to keep No3 and Po4 really low, and I probably will not run any of the leds at 100% as I'm pretty sure the corals will bleach out with the combination of really intense lighting and low nutrients. As for the fans, you will not be able to hear them even if they are on unless you put your ears directly on top of them. They are that quiet. I noticed on your graph that you run a fairly long photo period. You might want to shorten that as you ramp up the light. David |
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03/12/2013, 09:05 AM | #1127 | |
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Quote:
I'll move my start up time back as I ramp the light up. Think this could be why two of my acropora sp. corals are not adjusting to well (bleaching), while the montipora sp. are doing amazingly well?
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-JASON 120gal (48x24x24) Mixed Reef Custom Arts and Crafts Stand and Canopy http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2266751 Current Tank Info: 120gal Mixed Reef; Custom Arts and Crafts Stand and Canopy; EcoTech Radion XR30w PRO LED fixtures (2); Custom 40B Sump; Water Blaster HY-5000 Return Pump; Reef Octopus Diablo XS 160 Skimmer; Apex Controller; Vortech Powerheads |
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03/12/2013, 08:05 PM | #1128 | |
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Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 167
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Quote:
Typically, acros require more intense lighting than monticaps unless they are deep water type of acros. If the acro pieces are on the frag rack on the back wall, they actually may not be getting enough light intensity to effectuate desired coral pigmentation because of the angle of the light. Purple, blue, and pink types of corals required a few hours of more intense lighting to bring the colors out. (Are those digitata on the rocks in the left background?) Have you checked for possible bugs on the acro pieces? It's unlikely that they would get bleached running your light at maximum intensity of 60% with the blues and royal blues for 2 hours according to your graph. I would gradually change the programming graph to more of a bell shaped curve to allow for 3 or 4 hours of more intense lighting as well as the natural ramping up and down to mimic sunrise and sunset. David |
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03/12/2013, 08:52 PM | #1129 |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 6
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I have 48x24x24. Planning on getting the sr360. I have not found advice on getting a 3 footer or a 4 footer. Anyone have a recommendation?
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03/12/2013, 09:12 PM | #1130 |
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Location: East Texas
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my tank has a 48" x 20.5" footprint. it's 25" tall. I have the 3' SR360 and it's more than enough light. the SR260 would probably be enough. anything over 30% output is incredibly bright, and too much. this pic is 20% white, 30% blue & 30% royal blue. it's a phone pic so the white balance is way off... it doesn't look that blue in person, but it does have a nice blue tint to it. HTH
ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21363144223.665942.jpg |
03/13/2013, 03:06 PM | #1131 |
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Thanks yort265. As you know every foot costs. I hope to be part of this club soon. Still convincing the better half. Hence 3 foot is great news!!!
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03/20/2013, 03:49 AM | #1132 |
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Location: Italy
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my graph...
please comment it. thanks! |
03/21/2013, 11:51 AM | #1133 |
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Color temperature for the most part is a matter of personal choice, but I do notice that you're running your blue, royal blue, uv, and violet leds at an average of over 90% for 8 hours. That is a lot of light for that long. What are you planning to keep in there?
Have you noticed any algae problems with the red leds peaking at 85% at the beginning and end of your light cycle? By the way, you can set more points on the graph by clicking on "add points" in the expert programming mode for a smooth transition of light intensity. |
03/21/2013, 06:45 PM | #1134 |
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Location: Italy
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hi Animadverto,
thanks for your comment. I'd like to keep in sps and lps. for the moment I've only one sarco... only for few hours... no algae problems. please keep in mind that I have only 3 red leds in total (one for each multicolor module). the reason of 8 hours of strong light is this very interesting article: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012...aign=clickthru if you have time I'd like to have your opinion about it... best regards |
03/21/2013, 06:46 PM | #1135 |
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03/22/2013, 09:08 PM | #1136 | |
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Location: San Diego, California
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Quote:
That was an interesting article and a long one to boot. I read it twice and must admit that I sped through the section on the benefits of using leds and the perception of different light wavelenghts by the human eyes as I did not think it pertains to the effects of light intensity and duration on coral pigmentation. Here is a point that caught my attention. "This means that natural illumination under water is not sufficient for photosynthesis until the sun rises approximately 15 degrees over the horizon. In approximately 30 minutes after this the illumination quickly increases to about half of the daily maximum value. Therefore actual photoperiod is about 9 hours. These are the factors an aquarist should consider if he is wishing to replicate natural light cycles." I would like to point out that our light fixture is not capable of replicating the angle of light penetration into our aquarium. So, when we set the fixture intensity at 90% or more for 8 or 9 hours a day directly over the aquarium at optimum penetration angle plus 1 or 2 hours of ramping up and ramping down at sunrise and sunset, we would have exceeded 400umol that is recommended in this article as followed. "Also note that although 400μmol·photons/m2/s radiation power is optimal for coloration of corals, such high illumination requires pristine water conditions in the tank. Radiation power 4 times below this level is already sufficient to start production of chromoproteins in corals. We recommend starting slowly, with initial lighting levels close to the lower boundary of about 100μmol·photons/m2/s. Within several months you can gradually increase the illumination, while closely monitoring water parameters and the corals' reaction. If the system is stable and all parameters are in the optimal range, optical power can be gradually increased up to 400μmol·photons/m2/s." Personally, I'd rather err on the side of caution because corals will react more negatively to too much light than less than optimum light. I found 2 articles published by Advanced Aquarist as well that suggested a disruption of zooxanthellae reproductive cycles (bleaching) when corals are exposed to a prolonged period of intense lighting. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/5/aafeature http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/3/aafeature1 I hope that helps. David |
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03/24/2013, 12:00 PM | #1137 |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Italy
Posts: 13
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animadverto,
thanks for your answer... very interesting! I think I'll modify a little bit my graph... do you know which is the illumina 360 molm2sec output? |
03/24/2013, 08:48 PM | #1138 |
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Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 167
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Mario,
The SR360 fixtures are 40% brighter than the SR260, but I have not come across any PAR readings posted by anyone yet. The molm2sec (or PAR) output depends on where you take the reading in the tank. You will get a higher reading near the top of the tank and a lower reading near the bottom. |
03/25/2013, 07:00 PM | #1139 |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Italy
Posts: 13
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after many nights spent studing...
this is my last graph version: |
03/31/2013, 02:05 PM | #1140 |
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: san antonio, tx
Posts: 52
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well i have decided to join the ranks of LED with a vertex illumina 260 48inch. my tank is a sps dominant 60x24x24. my tank has been up a year with a mh fixture, so hopefully my sps dont freak out too much. currently running white at 50%, blue 60%, 65%.
tank with MH with vertex |
03/31/2013, 02:51 PM | #1141 |
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: kitchener ont
Posts: 15
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looking great I have joined also.bought three 12 Inch units for my 180.pick up in a week or so.
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04/13/2013, 12:18 PM | #1142 |
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 144
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I plan on getting a Nuvo Mini 38. Its 24x19. Looking into this LED, Which size do you recommend i get?? Thanks!
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04/13/2013, 08:47 PM | #1143 |
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Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 167
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04/14/2013, 07:12 AM | #1144 |
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 15
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It appears that there is new software and firmware on the Vertex site. Has anyone installed them and tried them out?
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04/14/2013, 07:19 AM | #1145 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 16
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There is new firmware and software mainly for the multicolor modules it seems quite glitchy for me anyway I've had to turn fixture on and off a few times now as the colors seem to lock up sometimes the moon light feature with the lunar cycle isn't as good as it used to be and I had to update firmware on fixture about six times and multiple power cycles etc to get all modules back online
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04/14/2013, 09:35 AM | #1146 | |
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Location: New Richmond, WI
Posts: 406
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Quote:
After getting the new modules online, I haven't had any issues.
__________________
-JASON 120gal (48x24x24) Mixed Reef Custom Arts and Crafts Stand and Canopy http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2266751 Current Tank Info: 120gal Mixed Reef; Custom Arts and Crafts Stand and Canopy; EcoTech Radion XR30w PRO LED fixtures (2); Custom 40B Sump; Water Blaster HY-5000 Return Pump; Reef Octopus Diablo XS 160 Skimmer; Apex Controller; Vortech Powerheads |
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04/14/2013, 09:43 AM | #1147 |
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 15
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I purchased a 360 about 2 months ago with the multicolor modules. The software and firmware at the time were up to date as "everything was running correctly". What do the updates do that the older version doesn't? Does it pay to update if everything right and have to deal with glitches that are always present when updates are released?
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04/17/2013, 04:01 AM | #1148 |
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Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 519
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They have issue on the latest ones 1991 and 2092. Wait until they have a fix, most likely next week.
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04/17/2013, 05:13 AM | #1149 |
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Posts: 19
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new lighting
what unit to go with i have a 200 DD 48 x 36 x 27 to set up thanks
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04/19/2013, 12:40 AM | #1150 |
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 266
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Help !!!!
I have 4 foot illumina into which I have sucessfully installed 3 U/V pads...all works great, software updates worked as planned...no problems. But.....I decided to fill the 4 spare slots in the fitting with the new Multi-colour pads and set about doing all the software updates. So far, nothing has worked. I updated the fixture to ver.2092 and the summary page acknowleges that the fixture is now updated to this version. I see no difference on the light studio...no red/green/U/V additional options are apparently there. So I tried to update the V-Stick to the latest version and have completely stalled. The new file wont install. Could this be part of the bugs in the new updates, or have I missed something critical ?? |
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