Reef Central Online Community

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > General Interest Forums > Lighting, Filtration & Other Equipment
Blogs FAQ Calendar

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Unread 01/19/2015, 10:43 PM   #101
Farkwar
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 34
Your suggestion of Brasso was fantastic. The regulator was kinda messy(and cheap). Looks very nice now. It came with stock gauges with plastic covers, but those forged brass and glass Wikas are sweet looking.

What it looked like on eBay...


Im Plastidipping the knob and CO2 tank and its knob, red and white to match the Vertex equipment.

When I saw your brass one on the front page, I woulda swore that was out of my price range or budget.

It looked like $1000 worth of sexy shiney brass to me.

It came in less than that Carbon Doser regulator.



Last edited by Farkwar; 01/19/2015 at 10:58 PM.
Farkwar is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/20/2015, 02:43 AM   #102
alanle
Registered Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by Farkwar View Post
Your suggestion of Brasso was fantastic. The regulator was kinda messy(and cheap). Looks very nice now. It came with stock gauges with plastic covers, but those forged brass and glass Wikas are sweet looking.

What it looked like on eBay...


Im Plastidipping the knob and CO2 tank and its knob, red and white to match the Vertex equipment.

When I saw your brass one on the front page, I woulda swore that was out of my price range or budget.

It looked like $1000 worth of sexy shiney brass to me.

It came in less than that Carbon Doser regulator.

Plastidip the knob is a great idea. I learned something new from you. Check out airgas.com and you will be surprised how much these dual stage rigs cost :-)


alanle is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/20/2015, 03:00 AM   #103
alanle
Registered Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 307
How to build a CO2 regulator for your calcium reactor.

Here is an example of the stainless steel Parker IR4000 single stage regulator. Airgas sells it for $668.
http://airgas.com/product/Gas-Equipm.../p/Y11C444F350

The same regulator but dual stage in great condition is going for $150 or best offer on ebay.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/331430361422?nav=SEARCH
I'm just making an example. The output of this regulator is a bit high so dont get it.

By the way, imo Airgas regulators are nice. Search for "airgas y12" on ebay. These are dual stages.



Last edited by alanle; 01/20/2015 at 03:07 AM.
alanle is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/20/2015, 08:04 AM   #104
crs751
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 240
Ooooh, shiny! Nice job Farkwar.


crs751 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/20/2015, 10:16 AM   #105
alanle
Registered Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by vxzcgh View Post
Thanks for the info. Should the solenoid be warm if it is energized or only if it is closed

It should draw some heat when energized. Anything below 4 watts is good. More than 4 watts is too hot.


alanle is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/21/2015, 05:47 AM   #106
dartier
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Brampton, ON, Canada
Posts: 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by alanle View Post
I found a picture that someone on the planted tank forum posted. He got curious at what is inside the carbon doser "mystery" box so he opened it. This is what it looks like.
Thank you for posting this photo alanle. When i first saw the Carbon Doser device a few months ago, and read about its operation from hobbyists and the official claims from the company, the first thought that popped into my head was "I wonder if it is just a Clippard valve with a timer?". Your photo confirms that this appears to be the case and re-affirms the my belief that the simplest explanation is usually the correct one.

Dennis


__________________
560G Miracles tank in process
making a DIY DyMiCo style filter (for 560G)

Current Tank Info: 560G Miracles tank in progress, 80Frag Temporary
dartier is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/21/2015, 06:58 PM   #107
alanle
Registered Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 307
Sad news! I just want to share with you guys that the man who taught us how to build these custom regulators passed away on November 9, 2013. I did not know until today. He will be missed.

http://www.barrreport.com/forum/barr...ith-aka-left-c


alanle is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/22/2015, 10:47 AM   #108
alanle
Registered Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 307
Here is a really nice stainless steel Concoa 432. It's a little pricey for a used unit. I would pay $70 to $80 for it.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/171652246196


alanle is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/22/2015, 12:58 PM   #109
alanle
Registered Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 307
Here is a regulator that I would love to have. This is a mini dual stage regulator that can fits in your palm.

http://www.restek.com/catalog/view/37770/26372


alanle is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/22/2015, 02:42 PM   #110
dnh828
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 70
Alan,

That 432 doesn't take returns, so I wonder if its working. It's also listed as a PARTS thing, so I'm not sure.

I bought a ton of regulators off of craigslist, a guy had a huge lot he was selling of (supposedly) working regulators.

You can see the pictures of them here: One Drive Album

Around 10 212's from concoa, a ton of other ones too. IR6002 is the one I'm probably going to end up using, that a good regulator alan?


dnh828 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/22/2015, 09:09 PM   #111
dartier
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Brampton, ON, Canada
Posts: 958
I am curious about what the issue is that happens to the single stage regulators at the end of the tank? Does the pressure of the dumped CO2 exceed the pressure the regulator was set for?

I am just wondering if a second small (external) regulator after a single stage one (like the Clippard MMR-1N) can remove the deficiencies of a single stage regulator.

I realize getting a good quality 2 stage would be a better approach, but I am just curious.

Dennis


__________________
560G Miracles tank in process
making a DIY DyMiCo style filter (for 560G)

Current Tank Info: 560G Miracles tank in progress, 80Frag Temporary
dartier is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/22/2015, 09:46 PM   #112
Dapg8gt
Registered Member
 
Dapg8gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Pacifica
Posts: 3,741
Hey Alan quick question I believe you stated to use a 12v power supply with the burkert valves but it says 24v on it. should I use a 24v one? I have one of each so it's no big deal to me just wondering..

And also is the only way to know if it's a dual stage regulator from just looking at it the size of the body? I know my single stage Milwaukee is a lot shorter than the dual stage one I'm getting but I was just curious as a friend asked me and that's what I said lol..


__________________
15 years in the hobby yet still learning every day.

280g radium lit sps flat living in my garage rent free.

Current Tank Info: 105g SPS dominant euro braced powered by 4 ecotech pumps and lit by an ATI powermodule controlled by a reef angel =).
Dapg8gt is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/23/2015, 06:54 PM   #113
alanle
Registered Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dapg8gt View Post
Hey Alan quick question I believe you stated to use a 12v power supply with the burkert valves but it says 24v on it. should I use a 24v one? I have one of each so it's no big deal to me just wondering..

And also is the only way to know if it's a dual stage regulator from just looking at it the size of the body? I know my single stage Milwaukee is a lot shorter than the dual stage one I'm getting but I was just curious as a friend asked me and that's what I said lol..
The Burkert is 24VDC so you should use it with the right power adapter. To tell whether a regulator is a single stage or dual stage just look at the body. Dual stage regulators have a longer back while single stages are flat. Don't be confused with "dual gauges". Some sellers on ebay often use this term.

-Alan


alanle is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/23/2015, 08:59 PM   #114
dadummy
Registered Member
 
dadummy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: S.Fla
Posts: 1,041
this may be a stupid question, but what is the overall +- dimension for a 20lb co2 tank and regulator, more concerned with the height and diameter of a set up.

The calcium reactor project has been put on hold. I am in the process of setting up the tank and decided to build a stand , canopy is next. I plan on building a separate box next to the tank to hold the co2 tank, masterflex, ballasts/drivers if it is a good idea to put them in the box. Would like to incorporate the chiller into the design as well. Don't know how tall the box has to be.

thanks


dadummy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/23/2015, 09:00 PM   #115
alanle
Registered Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 307
How to build a CO2 regulator for your calcium reactor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dadummy View Post
this may be a stupid question, but what is the overall +- dimension for a 20lb co2 tank and regulator, more concerned with the height and diameter of a set up.



The calcium reactor project has been put on hold. I am in the process of setting up the tank and decided to build a stand , canopy is next. I plan on building a separate box next to the tank to hold the co2 tank, masterflex, ballasts/drivers if it is a good idea to put them in the box. Would like to incorporate the chiller into the design as well. Don't know how tall the box has to be.



thanks

20lb CO2 cylinder usually stands at 23-24". However check with the seller before you make the purchase.
-Alan


alanle is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/24/2015, 07:09 AM   #116
dadummy
Registered Member
 
dadummy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: S.Fla
Posts: 1,041
great, thanks again Alan


dadummy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/24/2015, 11:22 AM   #117
crs751
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 240
I have a 20# cylinder for my system. From base to top of the guard around the valve it's 27.5" tall. I would guess it's around 8" to 9" in diameter.


crs751 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/29/2015, 10:59 AM   #118
Jagermeister
Premium Member
 
Jagermeister's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 1,003
I'm confused on the power supply for the Burkert solenoid. Aquarium Plants adds a grounded power cord as an option and there's a tutorial on the web on how to add a power cord. So does that mean the solenoid plugs directly into a wall outlet?

I thought I had read somewhere that the solenoid may need a power adaptor?


Jagermeister is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/29/2015, 11:29 AM   #119
Dapg8gt
Registered Member
 
Dapg8gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Pacifica
Posts: 3,741
Yeah the solenoid does need a power adapter. Possibly the AP one is AC?

What I find is a little off also is that the weatherproof connector on the burkert is sized for a standard cable size not really the small power adapter sized cords on the power supplies. Looking at my Milwaukee solenoid it's just a grounded plug so I'm guessing it's AC . I'm going to be powering mine up here pretty soon so I'll post a picture of it when I'm done.

On a side note I ended up getting a new older style Harris dual stage for oxygen from work. It has never been used but I need to test it to make sure it doesn't have any internal leaks.. It's the older style but being that it's new once I get the fittings I should be off to the races.


__________________
15 years in the hobby yet still learning every day.

280g radium lit sps flat living in my garage rent free.

Current Tank Info: 105g SPS dominant euro braced powered by 4 ecotech pumps and lit by an ATI powermodule controlled by a reef angel =).
Dapg8gt is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/29/2015, 12:44 PM   #120
dnh828
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 70
Pic of my finished system

I used what fittings I could find locally off of craigslist and from home depot to finish mine. I have a veriflo 6000 stainless regulator, but the rest of it is all brass.

Full res pictures here: http://1drv.ms/1HlnCaD


In terms of the power supply, each solenoid will have different power requirements. Some are 120v AC and just spliced in to a power cord, but mine was 12v. I got a IP67 constant current LED power supply and used waterproof wire caps to attach the solenoid power cables to the power supply.



Did the test as Alan prescribed, no problems and nothing bubbles when doing the soap test.


Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20150129_122717shrunk.jpg (36.6 KB, 76 views)
File Type: jpg 20150129_122709shrunk.jpg (50.2 KB, 85 views)
dnh828 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/29/2015, 01:12 PM   #121
JB NY
Registered Member
 
JB NY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 9,207
So I ended up buying a Veriflo unit off ebay. I have a few questions I wondered if somone could help me with.

Here are the pics of the unit, it looks to be in very good shape.




There are a few open connectors on the front and back I am not sure what to do with. Are they open, or do I need to plug them?

The back of the unit


Front


Also the bottom has three other opening that are already plugged, I assume I do not have to do anything to them.



I have had CO2 regulators for well over ten years. But this will be the first that I have put together myself.


__________________
-Joe

TOTM Sept 2002 | Reefland April 2004 | CORAL Magazine Nov 2007
Featured Tank "Coral Reef Aquarium" 2011 | Reef Spotlight 2018

Current Tank Info: 270G SPS Tank, 140G sumps, 35G Frag Tank, Ultra Reef Akula UKS-200 Skimmer, Apex, Giesemann Spectra 3x250W MH 4x80W T5, 2xReefbrite Tech 72" Blue LED, Triton Dosing, ARID C30 Algae Reactor, Maxspect Gyre
JB NY is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/29/2015, 01:38 PM   #122
dnh828
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 70
Those tubes in the front and back are just there in case the diaphragm fails and it has to vent the air. In some setups you want to vent that to a specific place, but for our purpose just leave the holes be.


dnh828 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/30/2015, 04:04 PM   #123
alanle
Registered Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by dnh828 View Post
I used what fittings I could find locally off of craigslist and from home depot to finish mine. I have a veriflo 6000 stainless regulator, but the rest of it is all brass.



Full res pictures here: http://1drv.ms/1HlnCaD





In terms of the power supply, each solenoid will have different power requirements. Some are 120v AC and just spliced in to a power cord, but mine was 12v. I got a IP67 constant current LED power supply and used waterproof wire caps to attach the solenoid power cables to the power supply.







Did the test as Alan prescribed, no problems and nothing bubbles when doing the soap test.

Thats a sweet regulator! Adding a 1/8 male x 1/8 female between the solenoid and the needle valve will save you some spaces. The needle valve will be pointing toward the user thus more convenience to do the adjustment.

As for the solenoid power supply, some Burkert solenoids are 120v, 12vdc and 24vdc. The model I mentioned is a 24vdc. It does not require a ground wire. All you need is a 24vdc 500mA power adapter. It's available on eBay.


alanle is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/30/2015, 04:11 PM   #124
alanle
Registered Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by JB NY View Post
So I ended up buying a Veriflo unit off ebay. I have a few questions I wondered if somone could help me with.



Here are the pics of the unit, it looks to be in very good shape.









There are a few open connectors on the front and back I am not sure what to do with. Are they open, or do I need to plug them?



The back of the unit





Front





Also the bottom has three other opening that are already plugged, I assume I do not have to do anything to them.







I have had CO2 regulators for well over ten years. But this will be the first that I have put together myself.

This is a nice ss Parker Veriflo. As Dnh828 mentioned, you do not need to do anything to the back and front ports. Just remove the high pressure inlet fitting and attach the CGA320 nipple and nut then remove the stop valve on the low pressure outlet and attach the post body from there. Let me know if you need solenoid, and needle valve. I have a few left and can spare you a set.


alanle is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01/30/2015, 04:18 PM   #125
alanle
Registered Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by Farkwar View Post


Mine so far

Any updates on your rig?


alanle is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:52 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2024 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright ©1999-2022
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.