Yellowwatchmens 40 breeder thread. (pics)

[yellowwatchmen]

Originally posted by dogstar74
Cyanide, is a poison that is sprayed underwater in front of a fish. It's a paralytic. It can damage the central and peripheral nervous system of the fish, and it slows the fishes responses. They are much easier to catch at that point. Unfortunately, this is a most unscrupulous method to catch them, as the fish never really ever recovers and will most likely die a premature death.

I would suggest a quarantine system. I'm kinda shocked that right after a death in the tank, you bought two new fish, and a couple of corals and just plopped them in the display without so much as a few weeks in a Quarantine tank. And now you're concerned about the white spots. Well it's possible they got the white spots from your aquarium, or it's possible they brought it in from the outside, either scenario is unacceptable in my thought pattern.

I hope they get better, and I hope it all goes well for you. I'd get some Garlic treatment for the ich. That's just my .02.

Aaron

Thanks for the comment and clearing up what cyanide was. If I do set up a quarentine what would I need as a tank. Ans I always drain my food and soak it in garlic. I use garlic guard by seachem.

[bohlke]

30G is a good size as most fish can be happy in that tank for a short period. If its a small fish a 5G bucket is also a less expensive alternative, though 10G tanks are pretty cheap as well.

[yellowwatchmen]

I have a 10 gal layng around. What kind of filteration should I use?

[yellowwatchmen]

I have a 10 gal layng around. What kind of filteration should I use?

[bohlke]

Originally posted by yellowwatchmen
I have a 10 gal layng around. What kind of filteration should I use?

Well what I do is basically cascading water changes. I do a 5G water change in my 65 display and the waste water goes into the 30G. The 5G waste from the 30G goes down the drain In the 30G I have a sponge running on a MJ600 or something like that to do a little bio filtration and I have a remora skimmer. Every once in a while I do a clean 5G change on the 30G along with the 5G change (a total of 10) just to keep the water clean. The bio sponge works like LR but isnt (from what I can tell) nearly as effective. I just wanted something I could drain and refil as needed so LR and LS were avoided in the QT tank. I was able to keep fish very happy in that system for 4 weeks while they were QT'ed without issue.

I am assuming you are going to use hyposalinity to cure the ich, if so you may need more filtration but I would assume you could get the same results adding topoff water to the waste water to get the salinity down. Best of luck!

[yellowwatchmen]

Originally posted by bohlke
Well what I do is basically cascading water changes. I do a 5G water change in my 65 display and the waste water goes into the 30G. The 5G waste from the 30G goes down the drain In the 30G I have a sponge running on a MJ600 or something like that to do a little bio filtration and I have a remora skimmer. Every once in a while I do a clean 5G change on the 30G along with the 5G change (a total of 10) just to keep the water clean. The bio sponge works like LR but isnt (from what I can tell) nearly as effective. I just wanted something I could drain and refil as needed so LR and LS were avoided in the QT tank. I was able to keep fish very happy in that system for 4 weeks while they were QT'ed without issue.

I am assuming you are going to use hyposalinity to cure the ich, if so you may need more filtration but I would assume you could get the same results adding topoff water to the waste water to get the salinity down. Best of luck!

I am thinking about the hypo but I have a shrimp so I don't want to go to low. I will probably use my 10gal for quarantine.

[bohlke]

You can hypo in the 10G right?

[dogstar74]

Yellow,
Sounds like your on your way. Bohlke is right about keeping is simple, and easy to breakdown and clean. That's the whole idea behind a QT. It can also serve as a hospital tank sometimes.

One thing that I have done in the past, is use a small penguin type wheel filter on the QT. You can get a bio-wheel from the petstore pretty cheap. Then when you are planning a purchase, you can run the biowheel on your display tank for a week or two to get the bacteria up to speed. Then you simply move it over to the QT.

Then you can run the filter for a month while the new fish is aclimating etc. And Once you put the new fish in the display, you can toss the Bio wheel in the garbage, and clean up the filter body for next time.

I wouldn't suggest a Biowheel for permanent tanks, but it can be effective in a small QT at filtering the water. You'll still need to do pretty regular water changes, just to keep the Water fresh and the nitrates down. But It shouldn't be too bad.

Good luck
Aaron

[bohlke]

Yeah just to be clear I do weekly 5G water changes because its just really easy. So my QT/Coral Prop tank is getting at 16% water change every week. It helps.

[yellowwatchmen]

I got some new corals. Toadstool and frogspawn. The toad stool is bigger it isn't opened up all the way. My sinulria is looking bad but it is shedding as it does every 2-3 weeks.

[timrandlerv10]

your nem is looking waaay better than it was back in october.

its really coming together, but i wonder if you're putting too much stuff in too fast, especially without quarantine...how much do you think you've spent on it now? and you next freebie could kill half of it. the stress of getting a new fish could make it sick, and the disease could affect others.

hypo for the clowns in a hospital tank would clear it up pretty quickly, but the ich would still be in the display. those pests have a 6 or 8 week lifecycle, and if you have any hosts at all in the tank, they'll keep living. basically, if its ich, you would really need to treat all the fish for 6-ish weeks to kill all the active infestations AND eggs in the display tank (let them go through their lifecycle without hosts, therefor dying and stopping reproduction).

if its ich and you want to fix it, you need info from people smarter than me in other forums...fast!

good luck,

tim

[yellowwatchmen]

My clown ended up dying. I am kind of happy because now it won't spread. I also talked to my LFS and it was a bad shipment about 3/4 of the clowns they had died.I am definetly going to wait 3-4 weeks before I get another fish. I am also going to set up a 10gal quarentine. And On my next fish I will do hypo. Yes my bta is looking alot better. The only reason I got it was because a fellow reefer was keepin it in his fuge with a little 5 watt light bulb. And It was dying When I got it, it had about 5 tentacles. It is starting to grow now that it moved up by the light. I will get a FTS with the nem completely open every time I take a fts it is closed or only half way open. I am also almost done with adding corals. I am wanting to add one more LPS or softie by the green leather and the colt. Any suggestions? I was thinking about a devils hand.

[timrandlerv10]

because the clown is dead doesnt mean ich (if thats what it was) wont spread...its already IN the tank, waiting for the next fish to infect. there are lots of great threads on ich treatment here, start with this one: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...hreadid=167243

good luck,

tim

[yellowwatchmen]

So do I need to have a quarentine set up just in case and if another fish gets ich (if that's what it was) I can do Hypo and treat with copper. I already feed garlic soaked foods.

[yellowwatchmen]

well today I was moving some corals around And I figured out what was eating my yellow star polyps and what was causing my zoos to close and not spread. It was a crab! It came in on my live rock. When I was putting in the live rock I saw a couple dead ones and I looked through the rock very throughly but I must of missed him. But I least he is gone now. This is what he looks like.
http://www.tbsaltwater.com/thepackage/watchout.html
He is the gorilla crab. And I did get my live rock from a distrubiter in Florida.
http://sealifeinc.net/