My review of the new WaterBlaster HY7000 pump

[musictoyourhome]

I was thinking of using the wb7000 for my new 125 build. It would be the return and run a chiller that recommends 900 gph. The pump will be in sump and need to push the water about 5 feet to the tank. Is this the right choice for this set up? In tank flow will be two 6105s. single return.
Thanks for any feed back.

[Hydrologist]

Originally Posted by swissgaurd

thanks for the quick reply guys
there will be no sea swirl
tank size is 60 x 36 x 24
sump is 48 x 20 x 18
as of now it will only be circulating water
but you never know with me i may join another system like a store display raceway
5000 and 7000 are the same price for me,so price is not an issue.
skimmer should pump 1322 gph
so the 5000 matches.
i was thinkin 5000 for hydro reasons .
im now using a pcx40 genx pump which i imagine is not as effeciant

Hydrologist i may take you up on that visit,where abouts are you in hamilton

thanks
vic

I am located in the East end just off the highway (Barton/Woodward area).

If you are even thinking about adding another T to your return lines then I would strongly suggest you just buy the 7000. Your skimmer right now is rated for the output on the 5000 without adding any head factor to the GPH, Your skimmer will keep up with the 7000 with no problems and your sump will have no issues with bubbles with a 4ft length.

I to don't like to use my return lines as the main source of flow, but having an SPS tank (which I think Vic you will have, from seeing your posts and other tank on AP) some extra flow can go along way.

You can't go wrong with either choice, but you may regret the 5000 if you do decide to add some additions in the near future.

You may want to hook up some T's for reactors as well......just a thought.

Dave

[Garage1217]

BB-5000 flows around 555GPH as it is a pinwheel. Its flow does not match that of a WB-5000 just to note.

[pecan2phat]

FWIW,
I also switched over from a GenX-PC40. It ran at approx 120w so you will definely save some juice and for comparison, the WB5000 actually put out a little bit more flow then the pressure rated PC-40 in my application.

[swissgaurd]

Originally Posted by Hydrologist

I am located in the East end just off the highway (Barton/Woodward area).

If you are even thinking about adding another T to your return lines then I would strongly suggest you just buy the 7000. Your skimmer right now is rated for the output on the 5000 without adding any head factor to the GPH, Your skimmer will keep up with the 7000 with no problems and your sump will have no issues with bubbles with a 4ft length.

I to don't like to use my return lines as the main source of flow, but having an SPS tank (which I think Vic you will have, from seeing your posts and other tank on AP) some extra flow can go along way.

You can't go wrong with either choice, but you may regret the 5000 if you do decide to add some additions in the near future.

You may want to hook up some T's for reactors as well......just a thought.

Dave

i will definately like the flow of the 7000
as i like to hook up toys
possibly on the weekend if i get a chance ill give you a ding to pick your brain
thankyou
vic

[Garage1217]

If you divert 1/2 or a bit less through that chiller, you will be fine... either that or I hope you have some big drains on that 125! Without diverting through the chiller, the 7000's will overpower a pair of 1" drains found on most 125's that I see around here. Maybe yours are larger. If all is good, you will love the pump

[musictoyourhome]

Hi
Thanks for the reply. This tank will have a 1.5" drain. Its not a standard 125. 52x24x23. I'm looking forward to getting rid of the chiller pump and using the wb for both applications. Thanks again

[BrklynArch]

hey guys prob a dumb question but i cant seem to wrap my head around the best way to plumb my HY-5000. 100g with (2) 3/4" returns. I would like to tee off for a fuge, and 2 reactors. So i know i would need to reduce to output from the 1" ->3/4" connect to a "Y" to split the return and then put in a tee at some point for the manifold and the fuge return.
i guess my question is whats the best way, maintenance wise, to connect to the pump itself. Union? flex tube? also i dont really want to glue anything to the pump but not sure if thats the way everyone does it

[pecan2phat]

You should probably build a manifold that is 1" input and then have three 3/4" and two 1/2" ball valve outputs. One source and controlled multiple outputs.

[BrklynArch]

I guess I'm more visual cause what you just said isn't registering.
If anyone has a picture that would help big time.
Im hitting the wall on what the best way is to connect right off the pump itself
Don't want to glue anything to it but also don't want to hinder its performance in anyway by pulling a bone head noob plumbing mistake

[GrampaDon]

Originally Posted by Garage1217

If you divert 1/2 or a bit less through that chiller, you will be fine... either that or I hope you have some big drains on that 125! Without diverting through the chiller, the 7000's will overpower a pair of 1" drains found on most 125's that I see around here. Maybe yours are larger. If all is good, you will love the pump

I run the WB7000 ,and the drain setup is a single box with a single 1in drain and a 1 1/2in as backup. The 1in has a gate valve almost half closed. Which lets almost nothing go down the bigger pipe. [It runs silent ,like a Herbie]

Oh ,and the 1in I used is the light weight thin wall stuff. I'm guessing has close to the same area as 1.25 or 1.5in sch40.

Just saying that 1in can work.

[Garage1217]

It is possible depending on the drop height and other variables and only with a siphon. Without a full siphon drain, it would not be possible. I am skeptical if a 1" ID pipe turned down 1/2 way can handle all that a 7000 can flow at a normal head height of around 5-6' after running some quick calculations But if you say it is doing as such, who am I to argue.

On the subject of the wb5000, You can see the flow in this pic and no other pumps were on at this time which was why I was trying to point out that it is a lot of pump, more than most realize. Also, I am running a full siphon drain through a 1.5" pipe with a gate valve turned down around 1/2 way. That is a lot of surface turbulence even 25" away from the outlets of the locline. My 5000 is dedicated to the main tank in this setup only since I run a full siphon with emergency drain.



If someone was to divert a 7000 into say a fuge or ats, or a chiller and maybe some reactors, then yeah a 7000 would not be a bad choice. But say if it was just for a display tank and say some reactors, it is way to much pump. I just hate people purchasing more pump than they need as it is just a pure waste of electricity. But if they plan to upgrade or add other systems into the mix, then by all means go for it!

On the other side of things, If one is to run a siphon drain like you and I, I DO NOT recommend trying to run other items off the main pump unless it uses a micro amount of water like a ca reactor as you will always be fighting system / siphon balance. Use a dedicated pump only and a secondary pump to power other tanks, systems or reactors.

In hind sight, I might have gone with an even smaller return pump than the 5000 for my siphon system and ran a smaller primary drain line as with most systems like mine, the purpose of the return pump is NOT to provide flow for the main tank, it is water turnover through the sump. To note, I also run a WB2000 to my reactors which is ridiculous overkill right now and I have a secondary 1/2 line run wide open to the sump just so the 2000 is not choked back to the point of not really functioning. The reason I chose it was that I plan to add in an ATS system and possibly a display fuge so it will run 1 or more other tanks here in the near future.

Here is a good article on bulkhead sizes and flow for drains.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BulkheadFloRateArt.htm

Also you can use the RC overflow / drain calculator. These values should be the minimum you use for flow and if you go for a siphon style drain with emergency backup, then go with the minimum diameter + a gate valve to control overflow level.
http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/drain.php

This is also an outstanding post to calculate flow via a siphon.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1814606

[GrampaDon]

Garage1217
Honest I do have most all the return exiting in a full siphon. [that's why its quiet.] And I try to upsize all hoses to retain as much flow as possible.

Also I dont know how much flow I really have. Its 1in out of the pump [dont forget that its thin wall 1in PVC] ,into a 1in T then 3/4 into 2 Sea swirls. But Its very possible all the stuff together cuts down the amount returned to the tank.

But in hindsight ,I also could have used a smaller pump like the WB5000.
And then add another say WB3000 for reactors. [I'm up to 2 now] And cut the overall electric usage.

Overall I like these pumps a lot. And your excelent in depth review was a big reason i choose it.

[shinninja]

Hey everyone I'm looking to buy a wb5000. I know I'm going to get seriously flamed for asking but I have to ask. How does this compare to the Eheim compact 5000? They seem to have similar specs. The flow currently SUCKS to my dt from the sump. I have it in a 180 gallon tank. I'm looking to get a tad more flow. Thanks

[meshwheel]

AWWWWWSOME THREAD!!!! Thank you! Question:
I have a 80 gallon bowfront! 32 inches tall. Will be a SPS reef. Built in overflow with
1 and 3/4 inch drain. Two returns. What size would you recommend for my return pump!
Great Thread! Thank you

[swissgaurd]

what ever the size of the return on the pump is.
you should always try and keep it the same.

if its 1" then the return piping should be 1"

vic

[swissgaurd]

Originally Posted by shinninja

Hey everyone I'm looking to buy a wb5000. I know I'm going to get seriously flamed for asking but I have to ask. How does this compare to the Eheim compact 5000? They seem to have similar specs. The flow currently SUCKS to my dt from the sump. I have it in a 180 gallon tank. I'm looking to get a tad more flow. Thanks

not sure how it would compare but i currently use the 7000 on my 225 and im
very happy with it.
i think youll be happy with the wb5000.

vic

[Garage1217]

Originally Posted by shinninja

Hey everyone I'm looking to buy a wb5000. I know I'm going to get seriously flamed for asking but I have to ask. How does this compare to the Eheim compact 5000? They seem to have similar specs. The flow currently SUCKS to my dt from the sump. I have it in a 180 gallon tank. I'm looking to get a tad more flow. Thanks

No flames so no worries lol! Per the specs, the 5000 is a lot more efficient at around 55-60w for about the same flow. Other than that, I have not used that eheim pump so cannot comment.

[swissgaurd]

Garage
i really like the wb 7000 so far so good,your review was excellent help.

i like to keep a spare pump in stock for backup.sometimes just parts.
whats bugging me is about the pump shutdown.
is there spare parts that you can keep,that you know of,have you looked into this

thanks

vic

[zooty]

Originally Posted by swissgaurd

not sure how it would compare but i currently use the 7000 on my 225 and im
very happy with it.
i think youll be happy with the wb5000.

vic

I have a 5000 on my 180 (dual returns, split to quads) and am considering moving up to the 7000 FWIW

[Garage1217]

Originally Posted by swissgaurd

Garage
i really like the wb 7000 so far so good,your review was excellent help.

i like to keep a spare pump in stock for backup.sometimes just parts.
whats bugging me is about the pump shutdown.
is there spare parts that you can keep,that you know of,have you looked into this

thanks

vic

I have not looked into it really. No failures yet!

[110galreef]

Originally Posted by swissgaurd

not sure how it would compare but i currently use the 7000 on my 225 and im
very happy with it.
i think youll be happy with the wb5000.

vic

what size overflow BH's, how many and what style? Durso, herbie..etc.

Thanks,

[110galreef]

I was just about to do a write up on my new WB HY 7000, but came across this.

FWIW: i did a no head test in a 5g bucket of water. 65-66w !!!
Not sure if they have improved them or I just got a STUD!!! I also did try to close the output with my hand and it dropped to like 57w. I toyed around a bit, plugged in other known pumps to confirm the right reading...sure enuf!!

Maybe i got the energy consumption of the HY5000 and the impellar of the HY7000.....Maybe your original thought was right on GARAGE.....

Did i say 66w and some serious flow.....
I noticed the sticker on the pump notes 90w, and all the sites seem to show these at 88w....Mine ran at 66W (incase you missed it)

I plan to feed it thru 1" flex PVC to an OM squirt 2 way to 2- 3/4" returns and see how it goes from there. I will toy with the Lock line and see how it flows. May have to use a "Y" and two nozzles at each outlet. I also may need to add a small hole in the OM to let some flow go to the opposite outlet at all times. I plan to have them shoot from back corner to opposite front corner and down a tad.

I went with the HY7000 over the HY5000 as at ~ 6' head my current Syncra 4.0 could be upgraded to get some extra flow ~ 600gph (51w). The HY5000 at 6' is rated at 740gph which I wasn't sure was enuf. The HY7000 at 6' should be about 950gph.

Also I wanted to get some more random flow in the tank, at basically no extra electricity...next options were upgrade CLS pump...extra 100w & $450, or add PH/Vorteh/Tunze...., which wasn't happening.

If it is too much I can "T" it off a manifold and use about 150gph for my frag tank....and toss that pump of electrical grid!!

Also this HY7000 was only pulling 66W at 0 head! Woo Hoo should see about low 60's at given head i bet.

Reports to follow

[swissgaurd]

this is my overflow and my water circulation
what meter are you using to see how much you draw
id like to get one of those


vic

[TheFishMan65]

He probably used a kill-a-watt or something similar. I think they run around $30 at home depot.