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Unread 07/09/2012, 11:15 AM   #101
kissman
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buy yourself an ro/di unit if you don't have one yet. get a 4 or 5 stage from Bulkreefsupply.com. You will more than likely have diatoms and/or cyano till the tap water is out of your system. Tap water is high in Nitrates, Phosphates, and Silicates thats what fuels algae, so as long as it in the system you will have it. I would do some 50% water changes with RO/DI water and add a little more salt to the water you use for water changes to bring up salinity slowly. Use a TDS meter to test the water coming out of the RO/DI unit befroe adding salt that will tell you if the filters in the RO/DI unit need to be replaced.

If you are going to go reef I would look into a good skimmer and get rid of the wet/dry, they can become nitrate factories and for a reef you want low nitrates and phosphates



Last edited by kissman; 07/09/2012 at 11:26 AM.
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Unread 07/09/2012, 12:04 PM   #102
sndman67
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thanks... and how do I get rid of the brown?


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Unread 07/09/2012, 01:58 PM   #103
prsnlty
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It will die off as the tap water dissipates through water changes with ro/di water. Tap water leads to tons of water issues and not to a stable tank. As Kissman said bulk reef supply has a great ro/di system for the money and well worth every penny.


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Current Tank Info: 180g AGA - drilled, 55g sump, Apex, DC12000 return, Custom LR overflows & return column, RO skimmer150, 2- AI Sol Blue LEDS, 6 X 80W ATI T5s, 2 x wp40 PH, JBJ ATO & 20g tank, Jebao DP4, 3 x TLF 150 Reactors for carbon and GFO
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Unread 07/09/2012, 11:47 PM   #104
sndman67
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which RO/DI do you suggest I buy? Are they easy to instal... Now I'm in an apartment and I'm renting... I also want to say thank you soooooo sooooooo very much. You are so very helpful. I can't thank you enough. I went to the site you provided me... bulkreefsupply.com. I just don't know which to buy.. and I want to know if it is convenient to instal and if possible to un instal when I don't need to use it. And what would I use for storing the water? I'm on the 3rd floor. I'm sorry.. I don't mean to be a pain... I'm trying .. I really am. I just want to do this right. I thank you again.


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Unread 07/10/2012, 05:36 AM   #105
kissman
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http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/...my-system.html


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Unread 08/04/2012, 12:14 PM   #106
Sk8r
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In an apartment where I had my own washer/dryer, I used a brass Y from lowes to split the cold water to the washer, screwed the rodi onto it, and put the wastewater into the washing machine. If you don't have that, there's an adapter to let you use the kitchen tap.
Getting it to go on may involve changing the outflow diffuser for the faucet.


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Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 09/25/2012, 02:47 PM   #107
jlymner
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my biggest problem with cal is the test ... it is confusing.. using the API test.. any suggestions?


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Unread 09/25/2012, 05:18 PM   #108
Sk8r
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Tests---my only advice is that it shouldn't be at all hard to read, and if it is, get another brand of test.


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Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 09/27/2012, 09:47 AM   #109
shafttlc
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Hi everybody
here's a question for you all. Ive been trying to raise Mg in my 100gal mixed. I will add Mg following the directions but when I check it the next day its actually lower than the day before.
I.E. Mg started at 1250 added Mg checked next day was 1220. Continued like this for the last 4 days
any ideas?

alk =8.4
Cal = 405
Mg started at 1250


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Unread 10/03/2012, 10:32 PM   #110
mainegeek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sk8r View Post
8. Dosing: you must dose to keep your calcium supply up if you have stony coral. Hand-dosing is just fine if you don't. You should be able to keep up with the mineral consumption problem if you have fish and softies, including anemones. Just stay in the target range, and do your water changes.

If you have, or want to have, stony coral, you need to get onto that calcium situation the minute you put them in the tank. They come in 'asleep'. Given good lighting (a requirement for stony coral) and correct chemistry---they'll put out a finger to feel the water. And they'll start waking up. Hungry---because they've not eaten in a while. And what they want is calcium. A lot of it. They'll suck it right out of your salt mix, until your snail shells start dissolving. So you have to put it in. 3 little coral frags can take heaping teaspoons worth of calcium supplement---daily---and at nearly twenty dollars a jar, this could get ruinously expensive. But there ARE cheap ways to give them what they need. Kalk drips are the cheapest. They can fully supply a 50-60 gallon packed reef. Above that you get into calcium reactors, which can supply much larger reefs. There is also the Balling method. And 2-Part. Tank size and coral load will determine what you need.
I'm curious, has anyone tried or considered Cuttle Bone for the calcium? They sell them for birds but when I was tending to turtles they floated, caught the turtles attentions and provided a decent calcium supplement. They also seemed to dissolve in the water over time.



Last edited by mainegeek; 10/03/2012 at 10:32 PM. Reason: Just fixed punctuation
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Unread 11/04/2012, 03:20 AM   #111
Spscraze37
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Good reading!


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Unread 11/04/2012, 09:31 PM   #112
MrJawfish
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Thanks for the good info!


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Unread 11/04/2012, 09:33 PM   #113
MrJawfish
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Do you think it is being used up? According to the original post, that is what usually happens.


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Unread 11/04/2012, 09:36 PM   #114
MrJawfish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlymner View Post
my biggest problem with cal is the test ... it is confusing.. using the API test.. any suggestions?
With the Ca test, you have to shake the test tube every time you add a drop. Once the test tube turns from purple to pink in color, you usually have to add 1-2 more drops before the color turns blue. Blue is your final indicator for the amount of Ca present in your test sample. You have to remember how many drops you added to the test tube, so count them in your head or write them on a piece of scrap paper.


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Unread 01/01/2013, 03:16 PM   #115
maresapc
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How do you lower ammonia? The tests that I've run say that it is a little high..


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Unread 01/01/2013, 04:11 PM   #116
bnumair
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Originally Posted by maresapc View Post
How do you lower ammonia? The tests that I've run say that it is a little high..
amquel, prime, ammonolock etc any ammonia reduction bottles available in LFS or pet stores will reduce ammonia. a natural way will be adding established live rock.


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Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE
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Unread 01/04/2013, 11:15 PM   #117
toky916
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Man pricy thinking of only FOWLR tank only now


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Unread 01/05/2013, 07:09 AM   #118
maR1o
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great read.


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Unread 01/09/2013, 11:55 PM   #119
FaronREO
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My brain just exploded.


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Unread 02/16/2013, 08:45 AM   #120
ctazmartin
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Sk8r,
Thank you, thank you thank you!! I believe I will laminate the "9 Commandments" until I have them memorized.

Chris


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Unread 02/25/2013, 10:09 AM   #121
Lemontree
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Another thank you, and my first post!

The rules say I cannot PM someone until I have 10 posts, and I could really utilize this chart for my reef, so I figured I'd start with this post, my first!

I'm usually a lurker, have gotten a bunch of great information on this site, and just today decided to get serious about it and purchase a membership and start being responsible.

I've had a 100 gallon system for years, and just upgraded to 300 gallons- so this tool will be hugely helpful. As soon as I reach 10 posts, I'll PM you, Sean.

Thank you for being on this forum~


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Unread 02/28/2013, 07:08 PM   #122
SantaMonica
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I'm another kalk drip person, as was stated above. Works really well for reefs, at adding cal and alk at the same time as topping off the evaporation water. Raises pH too. Just don't add it too fast, or too much, or the pH can get over 10.0 before you know it.


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Unread 03/03/2013, 04:14 PM   #123
Chris Abbott
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great info


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Unread 03/07/2013, 02:18 PM   #124
FLSteve
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Newbie here and I have some questions about my water chemistry. Hope this is the right spot to ask. I've read all the stickies over and over and think I'm on the right track but just want to make sure. Here's my results and the tests/equip used for test.

Temp 79 to 80 (digital probe and stick on thermometer)
ph 8.1 (Milwaukee PH100 digital probe)
Sal. 1.023 (Instant Ocean Hydrometer)
amon. Nitrite 0 (API test)
Nitrate .15 to .25 (Salifert Test)
KH 9.8 (Red Sea Test)
MG 1360 (Red Sea)
CA 400 (Red Sea)

I want to get into some soft corals probably shrooms at first but am wanting to be able to maintain a good water chemistry first. I would like to raise my salinity to 1.025 and have the water level where I want it. My plan is to let water evaporate until sal is 1.025 and then top off to desired water level with 1.025 water. Is this the proper way to raise salinity? I don't have an ATO but I just ordered 2 (one for my QT) and should be here in the next few days.

I realize my KH is a little high. This may be due to me being new to these tests. Out of the Red Sea tests this one seems to be the hardest to see the end color. I'm sure with more practice it will get easier. Before doing anything I plan on letting it run and checking again in 2 wks when I do my WC. Is that a good idea or...?

The last time I did testing I accidently washed the measuring spoons for the salifert nitrate test and the spoon for the Red sea CA test (I think it was CA, the test that requires the spoon). I had put everything in the sink and was using a jug of RO water to rinse everything out and the spoons were gone, even took the drain trap apart with no luck Any idea where or how to replace these with out buying new tests? I'd be more then happy to pay shipping and for your time if anyone has extras.

I made some mistakes setting up and getting into the hobby that could have been avoided if I would have found RC before hand. I apologize for the long post, just trying to avoid any more mistakes and learn how to do things right! Thanks!


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Current 5/17/13 Temp 79 PH 8.5 ALK 9.8 MG 1480 CA 480 NO2 0 NO3 PO4 NH3 0, SG 1.025

Current Tank Info: New 11/28/12 55 gal. BH1000 HOB skimmer, MJ600 & 400 PH, JBJ ATO, Tru Temp heat controller, 4 HO T5s, toadstool leather, Devils hand leather, lg. feather duster, Zoas, Shrooms, Zenia 2 green chromis, clown, peppermint shrimp, hermits snails
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Unread 03/08/2013, 06:17 PM   #125
SantaMonica
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For salinity you can just dissolve the salt in a gallon of tank water, then add it back to the tank slowly.


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