Re-automating my tank - Page 5

Donw · 10/19/2006, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by FuzzyLogic
Don or Tanya, which linear actuator are you using?

http://www.firgelliauto.com/ I'm using the 24" with the motor built in, the square one.

Don

TandN · 10/19/2006, 03:31 PM

I am gonna have it so that at maximum hieght extended stops before the ceiling I bought the one that only goes 6"

Donw · 10/19/2006, 09:56 PM

Here is the beginning of the rodi system portion of the remodel. I'll add the electronics after I get the replacement for the second ro membrane that I broke.

TandN · 10/20/2006, 08:47 AM

Hey Don do you need a single RO membrane holder like the last one on the top row ????

Donw · 10/20/2006, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by tanya72806
Hey Don do you need a single RO membrane holder like the last one on the top row ????

Thats the one. Ive got one comming should be here today or monday. Instead of adding more tape to a fitting I got lazy and tried to give it just one more turn to many. It will work out anyways, this way I'll have two fresh membranes.

Don

RobbyG · 10/20/2006, 10:55 AM

Thats a whole lot of work, you could have gotten a pressure switch or made one by just putting a TEE in the Co2 line and then branching the extra line over to a small spring loaded piston in a tube. I think you get the picture.

Quote:

Originally posted by Donw
What I really needed for this system was a way to have a hammer pound me on the head when my co2 starts running low. I have a spare bottle but I loose at least one coral every time I put off buying co2.
I took wire and soldered it to the spring inside the co2 gauge. Then took a second wire and soldered it to the needle stop pin. Then insulated the face from the gauge with tape so there is no continuity. I then tweeked the tip of the needle so that it touches the stop at 50psi instead of 0. Now I'm going to have the system bother me and the wife until I get co2. Bothering the wife is the key to it success.

Don

Donw · 10/20/2006, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by RobbyG
Thats a whole lot of work, you could have gotten a pressure switch or made one by just putting a TEE in the Co2 line and then branching the extra line over to a small spring loaded piston in a tube. I think you get the picture.

Were talking bottle pressure 1100psi for the little bottle and 2000psi on the bigger one. This took 5 minuts and cost nothing. A preset 50psi switch that can hande 2000+psi and the related plumbing to hook it directly to a bottle would cost around $300 to set up.

Don

TandN · 10/20/2006, 04:15 PM

O ok I have one i would of sent to you for free

CHAOSTACTICS · 10/20/2006, 05:45 PM

good lord, this is far better an far more complicated then anything i could hope to achieve with my tank

Donw · 10/21/2006, 10:06 PM

I'll wire it tomarrow.

Donw · 10/23/2006, 08:06 PM

Here is the tail end of the light lift photo period. Then 2 bulbs shut off and it about as bright as 20k moonlights. Then one hour later the last bulb goes off.

goda · 10/23/2006, 09:19 PM

look in to spectra pures ptv system
i just got one for 400 bucks that turns on the ro unit when psi in storage tank drops. and passes first ferw gallons of water to waste ( so the temporay high tds dosnt touch the di ) then after its done it auto flushes the membrainf or a few minutes

Donw · 10/23/2006, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by goda
look in to spectra pures ptv system
i just got one for 400 bucks that turns on the ro unit when psi in storage tank drops. and passes first ferw gallons of water to waste ( so the temporay high tds dosnt touch the di ) then after its done it auto flushes the membrainf or a few minutes

Ive been doing that for the last two years. It sure makes membranes last a long time. I added to the automation system and 10 stage rodi for about $60. I also dump the input water to deal with the cities water line flushing program.

Don

Tiki G. · 10/24/2006, 05:37 AM

Talk about making things easy. Enjoying following this thread.

Donw · 10/29/2006, 07:41 PM

Few more pics.

Donw · 10/30/2006, 09:18 AM

Well, the conductivity control turned out to be a complete flop. It works perfectly up until the solenoids turn on. The solenoids are 12vdc and are obviously putting dc voltage into the water. The conductivity probe is picking up the voltage and causing the dump solenoid to run constantly. I tried gounding the solenoids and the water with no luck, so back to the drawing board.

Don

tinygiants · 10/30/2006, 09:52 AM

Donw,

I have seen some conductivity set ups that use a remote water holder to set the probe in. I would think that a slow feeding "cup" would isolate the water volume. As the cup over fills it would spill over into the sump. If the spill over tube provides for water stream break up, then the volume would be elictrically isolated. Or do I not understand the problem?

Dale

tinygiants · 10/30/2006, 09:54 AM

Never mind, it seems I am thinking of the tank, and it appears you are working with the RO/DI unit.

Sorry.

Dale

Tigger240 · 10/30/2006, 12:08 PM

edit: n/m bad idea was here

also did you try to ground the solenoid and not ground the water? if you do them together it maybe easier for the electric to ground through the water than through itself?

Donw · 10/30/2006, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Tigger240
edit: n/m bad idea was here

also did you try to ground the solenoid and not ground the water? if you do them together it maybe easier for the electric to ground through the water than through itself?

I tried every combonation with no luck. I designed a rodi add on flush timer that works with any rodi that has a asv. I guess I'll just install one on my system. Not really what I was after but they do work.

Don

ronc98 · 10/30/2006, 07:52 PM

You need an isolated diaphram type valve. I use these with my setup however the valves themselves are expensive. Do a google for burkert or pneumatics.

We are talking 100 ish per valve.

Donw · 10/31/2006, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by ronc98
You need an isolated diaphram type valve. I use these with my setup however the valves themselves are expensive. Do a google for burkert or pneumatics.

We are talking 100 ish per valve.

Pretty difficult to justify $300+ worth of valves.

Don

ronc98 · 10/31/2006, 09:29 AM

Yes You are right. But who ever said it was this hobby was cheap.

I am a buit lucky since i have a steady supply of items like that.

Cuervo · 10/31/2006, 09:57 AM

Hey Don, would it be possible to turn your system on, run it for a couple of minutes, turn everything off, then check the conductivity. If it's not acceptable, turn it back on for a couple of minutes, and run through it again.

Then once you have reached the acceptable level, it does what it's supposed to do?

My other question is, could it be possible to get a greater distance between the valves and the probe - maybe if the distance were longer, the stray voltage wouldn't affect it? Also, could it be the electromagnetic field from the valves that is causing the false reading as opposed to actual voltage in the water?

Just trying to throw out some ideas for ya!

Donw · 10/31/2006, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Cuervo
Hey Don, would it be possible to turn your system on, run it for a couple of minutes, turn everything off, then check the conductivity. If it's not acceptable, turn it back on for a couple of minutes, and run through it again.

Then once you have reached the acceptable level, it does what it's supposed to do?

My other question is, could it be possible to get a greater distance between the valves and the probe - maybe if the distance were longer, the stray voltage wouldn't affect it? Also, could it be the electromagnetic field from the valves that is causing the false reading as opposed to actual voltage in the water?

Just trying to throw out some ideas for ya!

I did consider both of those options. Moving the probe 6ft away did nothing. Once the solenoids turn on it causes the controller to read a steady 1999 until I unplug it and reset.

I'll have my other parts tomarrow anyways. It will work just fine.

Don

10/30/2006, 07:52 PM	#121
ronc98 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Powell Posts: 1,329	You need an isolated diaphram type valve. I use these with my setup however the valves themselves are expensive. Do a google for burkert or pneumatics. We are talking 100 ish per valve. __________________ "It is useless to attempt to reason a man out of a thing he was never reasoned into" -> Jonathan Swift Current Tank Info: 26 foot sailboat who needs a tank!

10/31/2006, 09:29 AM	#123
ronc98 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Powell Posts: 1,329	Yes You are right. But who ever said it was this hobby was cheap. I am a buit lucky since i have a steady supply of items like that. __________________ "It is useless to attempt to reason a man out of a thing he was never reasoned into" -> Jonathan Swift Current Tank Info: 26 foot sailboat who needs a tank!

10/19/2006, 03:31 PM	#102
TandN Registered Member. Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NYC Posts: 2,009	I am gonna have it so that at maximum hieght extended stops before the ceiling I bought the one that only goes 6"

10/19/2006, 09:56 PM	#103
Donw Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 2,334	Here is the beginning of the rodi system portion of the remodel. I'll add the electronics after I get the replacement for the second ro membrane that I broke.

10/20/2006, 08:47 AM	#104
TandN Registered Member. Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NYC Posts: 2,009	Hey Don do you need a single RO membrane holder like the last one on the top row ????

10/20/2006, 04:15 PM	#108
TandN Registered Member. Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NYC Posts: 2,009	O ok I have one i would of sent to you for free

10/20/2006, 05:45 PM	#109
CHAOSTACTICS Moved On Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Maryland Posts: 96	good lord, this is far better an far more complicated then anything i could hope to achieve with my tank

10/21/2006, 10:06 PM	#110
Donw Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 2,334	I'll wire it tomarrow.

10/23/2006, 08:06 PM	#111
Donw Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 2,334	Here is the tail end of the light lift photo period. Then 2 bulbs shut off and it about as bright as 20k moonlights. Then one hour later the last bulb goes off.

10/23/2006, 09:19 PM	#112
goda Moved On Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: fortlauderdale florida area Posts: 1,874	look in to spectra pures ptv system i just got one for 400 bucks that turns on the ro unit when psi in storage tank drops. and passes first ferw gallons of water to waste ( so the temporay high tds dosnt touch the di ) then after its done it auto flushes the membrainf or a few minutes

10/24/2006, 05:37 AM	#114
Tiki G. Premium Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Jacksonville Bch, FL Posts: 163	Talk about making things easy. Enjoying following this thread.

10/29/2006, 07:41 PM	#115
Donw Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 2,334	Few more pics.

10/30/2006, 09:18 AM	#116
Donw Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 2,334	Well, the conductivity control turned out to be a complete flop. It works perfectly up until the solenoids turn on. The solenoids are 12vdc and are obviously putting dc voltage into the water. The conductivity probe is picking up the voltage and causing the dump solenoid to run constantly. I tried gounding the solenoids and the water with no luck, so back to the drawing board. Don

10/30/2006, 09:52 AM	#117
tinygiants Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 492	Donw, I have seen some conductivity set ups that use a remote water holder to set the probe in. I would think that a slow feeding "cup" would isolate the water volume. As the cup over fills it would spill over into the sump. If the spill over tube provides for water stream break up, then the volume would be elictrically isolated. Or do I not understand the problem? Dale

10/30/2006, 09:54 AM	#118
tinygiants Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 492	Never mind, it seems I am thinking of the tank, and it appears you are working with the RO/DI unit. Sorry. Dale

10/30/2006, 12:08 PM	#119
Tigger240 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Florida Posts: 642	edit: n/m bad idea was here also did you try to ground the solenoid and not ground the water? if you do them together it maybe easier for the electric to ground through the water than through itself?

10/31/2006, 09:57 AM	#124
Cuervo Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Melbourne, Fla Posts: 395	Hey Don, would it be possible to turn your system on, run it for a couple of minutes, turn everything off, then check the conductivity. If it's not acceptable, turn it back on for a couple of minutes, and run through it again. Then once you have reached the acceptable level, it does what it's supposed to do? My other question is, could it be possible to get a greater distance between the valves and the probe - maybe if the distance were longer, the stray voltage wouldn't affect it? Also, could it be the electromagnetic field from the valves that is causing the false reading as opposed to actual voltage in the water? Just trying to throw out some ideas for ya!