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02/23/2018, 09:54 AM | #1276 | |
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02/23/2018, 09:58 AM | #1277 | |
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Mike <*)))>{ <*)))>{ <*)))>{ <*)))>{ ReefKeeping.com TOTM Nov 2012 Socalireefs Featured Reef Oct 2011 Current Tank Info: 60*30*20, 8x54 ATI Powermodule, ReefBrite XHO, ATB Elegance 200, Aquamaxx CTech CaRx, Ecotech Vortechs, Apex Controls, WM Ecobak powered. RedSea Reefer 170, MP10, Apex Jr, Ecotech Radion XR15, Aquamaxx WS-1 |
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02/23/2018, 11:53 AM | #1278 |
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Should I see a bubble in the counter chamber as soon as the metering valve open? I notice it takes a few seconds for the CO2 to get to the chamber.
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02/23/2018, 01:44 PM | #1279 | |
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Mike <*)))>{ <*)))>{ <*)))>{ <*)))>{ ReefKeeping.com TOTM Nov 2012 Socalireefs Featured Reef Oct 2011 Current Tank Info: 60*30*20, 8x54 ATI Powermodule, ReefBrite XHO, ATB Elegance 200, Aquamaxx CTech CaRx, Ecotech Vortechs, Apex Controls, WM Ecobak powered. RedSea Reefer 170, MP10, Apex Jr, Ecotech Radion XR15, Aquamaxx WS-1 |
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02/28/2018, 09:41 PM | #1280 |
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Anyone using painball tank? I just built this one.
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03/01/2018, 06:06 AM | #1281 |
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That's a handsome unit-I especially like the sky high shot. (:
Is the regulator two stage?
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03/01/2018, 10:33 AM | #1282 |
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I never thought about using a paintball tank. How big is it and how long do you think it would last?
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03/02/2018, 05:38 PM | #1283 |
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03/08/2018, 11:16 AM | #1284 |
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I just wanted to give this a bump to ask again if the check valve/bubble counter in the previous post is any good.
If you guys in the know could please take a look and let me know, I'd appreciate it. The check valve is the last part I need.
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03/08/2018, 02:30 PM | #1285 |
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That Ista bubble counter is the one most commonly used. However, they should be swapped out every year IMO as I don’t trust the quality of it’s internal check valve. I’m not a fan of those and would rather use the bubble counter on my CaRx. Having that bubble counter fluid fluid that close to my expensive needle valve makes me nervous. Intead, I rely on the CaRx bubble counter and attach one of these, more reliable CO2 check valves inline.
https://www.marinedepot.com/Dennerle...COCACV-vi.html
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03/08/2018, 03:31 PM | #1286 |
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Thanks a ton!
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03/11/2018, 06:21 PM | #1287 |
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Does the direction of flow matter with the Burkett 6011 solenoid? I couldn't find an arrow on the solenoid or any info regarding flow direction on this thread.
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03/11/2018, 07:28 PM | #1288 | |
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- Leon (aka - Water Dog) Deep Blue 57 Edge ATI Acro Garden Build Thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=25573384#post25573384 Current Tank Info: DeepBlue 57 Edge |
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03/11/2018, 07:30 PM | #1289 |
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03/11/2018, 07:31 PM | #1290 |
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03/12/2018, 04:53 AM | #1291 |
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Thanks again, LQT. I did search Burkett on this thread, but that first post didn't come up...really appreciate the help.
alanle, outstanding thread to build a first class regulator. Thank you!
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03/17/2018, 12:46 PM | #1292 |
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The little 'weatherhead' on my Burkert solenoid says, "0-250V AC/DC" which seems odd, seems like it should be either AC or DC. IDK. Anyway the cord has three wires- red, black and green. It was sold as AC. I need to connect a plug to the cord. Green is ground but I'm not sure about the black and red wires. Any help to sort this out would be much appreciated.
I couldn't find the answer when I searched this thread, hoping someone can help.
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03/18/2018, 04:04 PM | #1293 |
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Black is always negative and red is always positive.
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03/18/2018, 08:07 PM | #1294 |
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Yeah with DC, but what throws me is this is supposed to be an AC solenoid. It has a ground wire and everything I've goofed with that was DC only had a red positive wire and a black negative wire-just those two.
With AC, the black is hot with a white neutral and green ground. So the three wire setup makes me believe it is an AC solenoid. If that's the case, maybe it doesn't matter how the black and red wires are connected to hot and neutral.
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03/19/2018, 01:34 PM | #1295 | |
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03/19/2018, 03:18 PM | #1296 | |
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03/19/2018, 04:25 PM | #1297 | |
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Shall I assume that if the check valve is working and the Burket Solenoid is working properly and in the off state that there should be no CO2 Gas entering the reactor? |
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03/20/2018, 08:07 AM | #1298 | |
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When the solenoid closes, there is still gas in the line and still entering the reactor. For my Burkert, after the solenoid turns off, the bubble slow drastically and in about 15 - 20 seconds no bubbles at all.
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Mike <*)))>{ <*)))>{ <*)))>{ <*)))>{ ReefKeeping.com TOTM Nov 2012 Socalireefs Featured Reef Oct 2011 Current Tank Info: 60*30*20, 8x54 ATI Powermodule, ReefBrite XHO, ATB Elegance 200, Aquamaxx CTech CaRx, Ecotech Vortechs, Apex Controls, WM Ecobak powered. RedSea Reefer 170, MP10, Apex Jr, Ecotech Radion XR15, Aquamaxx WS-1 |
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03/20/2018, 04:20 PM | #1299 | |
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03/21/2018, 06:28 AM | #1300 |
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I just talked to the people at Burkert and sure enough, it's a DC solenoid-it takes 24V. They said the ground doesn't need to be connected. I've yet to see a wall wart with a ground...Why the 'weatherhead' on the solenoid says 0-250V AC/DC is beyond me. I must admit the label on the weatherhead did say 24V DC but had some crud on it and was hard to read after I cleaned it...
This was sold as an AC solenoid. I sure am glad the person who ruined their solenoid posted and I found it when I searched the thread. Hooking this up to AC would be such an easy mistake to make. Thanks all.
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