NEW plumbing method for an ULTRA QUIET REEF TANK!!!! LONG !!!!

[SpacedCowboy]

Originally Posted by TheFishMan65

The stand pipe on the main drain is optional. It does 2 things that I can remember.
1) Raises the water level in the overflow to shorten the water fall (keeps it quieter)
2) Limits the amount of water that can go into the sump on a power failure.
The emergency must be low enough to create a siphon in the event of a complete main drain clog. It only needs to be a 1/4 higher than the main drain.

As far as I am aware, the only purpose of the standpipe is the second of these reasons. The height of water in the overflow is controlled by the gate valve, not the standpipe height.

If you have enough space in your sump to accomodate the extra water due to the overflow volume when the electricity fails, there's no need for the standpipe at all.

Simon

[Herbie]

Originally Posted by SpacedCowboy

As far as I am aware, the only purpose of the standpipe is the second of these reasons. The height of water in the overflow is controlled by the gate valve, not the standpipe height.

If you have enough space in your sump to accomodate the extra water due to the overflow volume when the electricity fails, there's no need for the standpipe at all.

Simon

Yes, but the overflow holds a LOT of water, more than you would think! If you have the room in your sump for drain down when the power is cut, no problem. Few people do. I personally keep my main drain approx 6" under the top of the overflow "edge", and the emergency starts to pick up at approx 1/4" below the edge of the overflow. On a powerdown, I only drainback about 1/2 gallon of water.

Herbie

[SpacedCowboy]

Originally Posted by Herbie

Yes, but the overflow holds a LOT of water, more than you would think! If you have the room in your sump for drain down when the power is cut, no problem. Few people do. I personally keep my main drain approx 6" under the top of the overflow "edge", and the emergency starts to pick up at approx 1/4" below the edge of the overflow. On a powerdown, I only drainback about 1/2 gallon of water.

Herbie

Sure, but for people like me with a 180g tank that's being used as a sump for a 240g display, it's not likely to be a problem

Simon

[Herbie]

Yea, larger tanks will likely have large sumps, so no problem.
I have had fish get into the overflow more than a few times. If I didnt have the standpipe on the high side, in a powerfail, the fish would be dead. Small concern to be sure, but something to think about ......
Somepeople also use that area as a mini fuge.
Herbie

[SpacedCowboy]

Originally Posted by Herbie

Yea, larger tanks will likely have large sumps, so no problem.
I have had fish get into the overflow more than a few times. If I didnt have the standpipe on the high side, in a powerfail, the fish would be dead. Small concern to be sure, but something to think about ......
Herbie

This is a good point. Not very likely to happen, but there's no reason not to have a standpipe, and you just *know* you'll have a fish in there when there's a power failure if you dont have a standpipe...

I was mainly trying to say that the gate valve is what sets the water height in the overflow, anyway :-) looking forward to setting one of these up when the new 240g tank arrives on Tuesday

Simon

[Herbie]

Originally Posted by SpacedCowboy

This is a good point. Not very likely to happen, but there's no reason not to have a standpipe, and you just *know* you'll have a fish in there when there's a power failure if you dont have a standpipe...

I was mainly trying to say that the gate valve is what sets the water height in the overflow, anyway :-) looking forward to setting one of these up when the new 240g tank arrives on Tuesday

Simon

You are exactly correct. I used to initially run this way when I was just starting to experiment .
Good luck with the new tank.
Herbie

[DML08]

Originally Posted by DML08

so after a mix up from my tank builder I ended up with 2 3/4'' holes and 1@ 1.5''.. so this is what I'm thinking of doing.. one of the 3/4'' I'm gonna use a 1.25'' standpipe at full siphon the 1.5'' is gonna be the durso as a back up and the last 3/4'' is gonna be my return, do you guys think this will work?

^^ anyone..

[Rhodes19]

Originally Posted by DML08

so after a mix up from my tank builder I ended up with 2 3/4'' holes and 1@ 1.5''.. so this is what I'm thinking of doing.. one of the 3/4'' I'm gonna use a 1.25'' standpipe at full siphon the 1.5'' is gonna be the durso as a back up and the last 3/4'' is gonna be my return, do you guys think this will work?

Sorry if I missed it, but what size tank is it? Are the holes all in one overflow? If it was me, and they were all in the same overflow, I would go with the 1.5" as the main siphon drain as it can handle more water than the 3/4"(something to think about if you ever upgrade to a bigger pump) and would be less likely to clog. I would use one of the 3/4" as an emergency drain and use the other 3/4" as the return. You could also use both 3/4" as emergency overflow and bring the return up and over the back of the tank. HTH.

[DML08]

No worries.. the holes are all in one overflow (center) the tank is a 115g 48x30x18tall... HTH

[mnestroy]

Hi,

I read bout 80% of the 54 pages Phfeww however I still have a few questions.

Plumbing has always been my kryptonite in this hoby.

I current have a 90G AGA RR, I have been using the standard AGA Megaflow kit/fittings and I want to switch over to this style.

My question is what do I need to swap out?

Right now my drain has 1 1/4 inch hose clamped onto the barbed fitting and my return is a 3/4 inch Barbed fitting.

I think I would like to switch from hoses & clamps to hard PVC, what do I need to do to acccomplish this? (or should i stick with hoses?)

1. I assume I need to replace both bulkheads, or does the AGA allow me to put a PVC on the inside of hte barb??

2. What Bulkhead do I used do use for the full siphon drain, the 3/4 or the 1inch

3. If I use the 3/4 for the siphon, Shouldn't I be able to leave the stock Megaflow Durso drain in place? and just raise it so that it is higher than the pipe currently being used for the return (so take the current return and remove lok-line and shorten it/put a cap/snail gaurd on it?)

4. What is the best way to replumb a Water Blaster HY-3000 to go over the back? I "think" the output on that pump is 1" it might be a tad off because its metric, but should I go hose all the way up to he back of the tank or go PVC?

This is my current setup.

[Rhodes19]

Originally Posted by DML08

No worries.. the holes are all in one overflow (center) the tank is a 115g 48x30x18tall... HTH

Ok, yeah, I would go with the 1 1/2" as the main drain and use the other holes as emergency drains and have the return come up and over the back. I have a 180 rr with 2 overflows, one in each corner. Each one has a 3/4" and a 1" hole. I converted the 1" lines under the tank to a 1 1/2" pvc and tied them together with a Tee and I use the 3/4" as emergency drains. I also brought my return up and over the back of the tank. Here are some pics. HTH

1 1/2" teed together.



drain and emergency lines in overflow.



Over the back return.





I painted the return black and the only thing you can see is about 1/2" of the nozzles in the water.

[Rhodes19]

Hi mnestroy, I'm not familiar with the AGA Megaflow kits but if you need to change out bulkheads, it shouldn't be a problem.

Originally Posted by mnestroy

Hi,

I read bout 80% of the 54 pages Phfeww however I still have a few questions.

Plumbing has always been my kryptonite in this hoby.

I current have a 90G AGA RR, I have been using the standard AGA Megaflow kit/fittings and I want to switch over to this style.

My question is what do I need to swap out?

Right now my drain has 1 1/4 inch hose clamped onto the barbed fitting and my return is a 3/4 inch Barbed fitting.

I think I would like to switch from hoses & clamps to hard PVC, what do I need to do to acccomplish this? (or should i stick with hoses?)

I'd go with pvc because it will add some stable structure for the gate valve to connect to. Check your bulkheads. Are the barbs and bulkhead once solid piece or is the barb screwed into the bulkhead? If its screwed in, you can unscrew it, replace it with a threaded pvc adapter and run pvc to your sump. I would place a union joint near the bulkhead to make it easier to clean or unclog if the need ever arizes. If the barb is part of the bulkhead, then get a replacement bulkhead that is threaded on the inside both top and bottom, no slip joints. Do the same for both bulkheads.


1. I assume I need to replace both bulkheads, or does the AGA allow me to put a PVC on the inside of hte barb??

Not sure if AGA allows that but see if the barbs can be unscrewed. I don't believe pvc can be connected to barbs.


2. What Bulkhead do I used do use for the full siphon drain, the 3/4 or the 1inch

Go with the 1" for the siphon drain and use the 3/4" as your back up.


3. If I use the 3/4 for the siphon, Shouldn't I be able to leave the stock Megaflow Durso drain in place? and just raise it so that it is higher than the pipe currently being used for the return (so take the current return and remove lok-line and shorten it/put a cap/snail gaurd on it?)

Go with the 1" as your drain. That will give you the best option for more flow. You can make the emergency overflow with 3/4" pvc and either leave it open on top or place a 90 deg elbow on it.


4. What is the best way to replumb a Water Blaster HY-3000 to go over the back? I "think" the output on that pump is 1" it might be a tad off because its metric, but should I go hose all the way up to he back of the tank or go PVC?

I would use pvc coming off the pump, have a union joint in line for easy removal of the pump for maintenance or repair, and then have a 1" barb connected to the pvc. From there, run a tube to the top of the tank, and connect it to another barb that is screwed into 2, 90 deg elbows that go over the top of your tank. I have a Tee at the end of the second elbow where my locline screws into.

HTH


This is my current setup.

[hillscp]

Originally Posted by mnestroy

Hi,

I read bout 80% of the 54 pages Phfeww however I still have a few questions.

Plumbing has always been my kryptonite in this hoby.

I current have a 90G AGA RR, I have been using the standard AGA Megaflow kit/fittings and I want to switch over to this style.

My question is what do I need to swap out?

Right now my drain has 1 1/4 inch hose clamped onto the barbed fitting and my return is a 3/4 inch Barbed fitting.

I think I would like to switch from hoses & clamps to hard PVC, what do I need to do to acccomplish this? (or should i stick with hoses?)

When I built mine I tore out a hard plumbed Durso that was making me crazy with noise and bubbles. Been running silent and bubble free for a year now. Thanks Herbie

1. I assume I need to replace both bulkheads, or does the AGA allow me to put a PVC on the inside of the barb??

If it were me I would just get new bulkheads. You are going to need to put a valve on the main drain anyway. New bulkheads don't cost that much so order two

2. What Bulkhead do I used do use for the full siphon drain, the 3/4 or the 1inch

Use the 1". Leave the 3/4 for the overflow.

3. If I use the 3/4 for the siphon, Shouldn't I be able to leave the stock Megaflow Durso drain in place? and just raise it so that it is higher than the pipe currently being used for the return (so take the current return and remove lok-line and shorten it/put a cap/snail gaurd on it?)

I wouldn't do that. It will not siphon in an emergency with all those bubbles in there.

4. What is the best way to replumb a Water Blaster HY-3000 to go over the back? I "think" the output on that pump is 1" it might be a tad off because its metric, but should I go hose all the way up to he back of the tank or go PVC?

I am using two external Blue Line pumps (1200 gph through the return lines) and have no experience with that one. My personal preference is PVC. It just looks cleaner.

This is my current setup.

Here is how I plumbed mine

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...4&postcount=35

And here is the finished product.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...1&postcount=33

Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.

[jeffreylam1132]

Very informative thread. Thanks

[Rhodes19]

mnestroy,

How is the plumbing going? Any updates?

[DeadReply]

Hi
Im new in this domain

i have purchased an overflow box and install yesterday

but im becoming crazy its not quiet.... i have read on
the forum and can you suggest me the good method
to remove this noise plzzzz


in attachement a picture of my overflow box.


thanksss

[mnestroy]

Originally Posted by Rhodes19

mnestroy,

How is the plumbing going? Any updates?

I wanted to do it in staged, so i replaced the return line first and the emergency drain, however I am having slight leeks on some of my fittings where i went with threaded...

I donno why i'm getting leeks, I went with Schedule 80 Nipples and Schedule 80 Treaded 90's, tape and no tape.... and tight and supper tight..

I have a canopy and drilled a hole for the return using a 4inch nipple into 2 threaded 90s, and even with tape they leek, grhh So I'm gona enlarge the hole in the canopy and hard plumb it using a union so I can take the parts if need be.

Its leaking were the two treaded 90's join.

[mnestroy]

Okay, 18hrs later and a few dollars on new fittings and I came up with a better solution that will allow me to easily remove sections of the pipe for cleaning.

I was debating running PVC all the way down to, or at least 16inches close to the pump and then switch over to hose to avoid vibrations, but I already had the hose cut so I kept it 90% hose 10% PVC

In the 2nd photo I converted my old 3/4" Return line to the emergency drain by replacing the bulkhead with a double threaded and then I converted it up to 1" above and below bulkhead. I had to put a 90 in the end to make room for where the original 90 return went.

I didn't want to change the placement of the return (I've struggled very long finding just the right flow to keep all my softies happy and my LTA from moving) So the 3/4" 90 PVC that came with the stock AGA Mega overflow kit is now a 1" 90 -> 3/4" PVC Inverted (then to Loc-line like original kit)

Planning Take #2



Completed Take #2






Once I am confident in phase 1 I will replace the stock drain (AGA slip -> barb) bulkhead with a thread to thread and start to plumb the main siphon drain. Which will go from 1" to 1.5" right after both sides of bulkhead. I am optimistic this part will go a lot smoother with only needing to use threads on the gatevalve.

So far threaded fittings have not been my friend

[Rhodes19]

Hi mnestroy,

Very nice, it looks like you are getting there. I'm sorry you are having problems with the threads. I usually find that I don't put enough plumber's tape on it initially and wind up having to add more as I go. One time (that's all it took for me to learn ) I over tightened the joint and cracked it. But it looks like you have it well in hand. I can't wait to see more pictures as you move along.

[Rhodes19]

Originally Posted by DeadReply

Hi
Im new in this domain

i have purchased an overflow box and install yesterday

but im becoming crazy its not quiet.... i have read on
the forum and can you suggest me the good method
to remove this noise plzzzz


in attachement a picture of my overflow box.


thanksss

Hi DeadReply,

Welcome to RC. There are a few things you can do. The first think that would help is reduce the return flow. You can do this by either replacing your current pump with a lower flow pump or you can make a diverter to divert some of the flow from your pump back into the sump there by reducing your return flow. The second thing you can do is attach a gate valve to your over flow line and dial it down to try to get more water than air into your over flow line. The problem with that set up is you do not have a bulkhead for an emergency over flow and if you don't have you valve dialed in, you WILL flood. To be honest, that's probably not even an option for your overflow box. The next option is to drill the back of your tank (if it's not tempered) and add an overflow box kit from http://www.glass-holes.com/main.sc;j...A.qscstrfrnt04

There is not to much you can do with an overflow box. I have one on my wife's blood parrot cichlid tank and its noisy. I replaced the pump with a slower flow pump and that helped a little. I'm almost done making a pvc overflow that will allow double the flow the box can and with less noise. That might be an option as well. HTH.

[DML08]

Gate Valve or Ball Valve?? I think HD only has Ball valves that's why I'm asking.. Also, where would be the palce to put it? just after the bulkhead or at the sump just before the waterline??.. Also no GV/BV on the back up drain correct?? TIA..

[Herbie]

Gate valve is a must, it will cost you a few extra bucks, but its the heart of the system. I always try to get the gate valve as close to the sump as possible. The emergency should be open, and unrestricted.
HTH, Good luck with it.
Herbie

[DML08]

Thanks for the Reply Herbie..


I have another question. Left bulkhead is gonna be a 1.25 Durso(Back up) Reduced down to 3/4".. Center is going to be 1.5 Drain at full siphon, the one on the right 3/4 Return will feed both returns on both sides of the overflow.. do you think I can cram all the PVC in there and pipe it in, or do I just Pipe in the drains and use tubing for the return since its gonna be a tight spot....??

[ncmx3]

Herbie, I tried to open your original links but they wont open. I am starting a 210 and I want to drill my overflow through the rear of the tank. I am looking for a quiet overflow for once I am tired of my Gurgle busters being so loud.

[Herbie]

Guys,
I accidently deleted some of those old pictures a while ago. I didn't realize they would "vanish" from the thread.........doh!
Bulk Reef Supply has done a nice video presentation of this overflow method that will answer lots of questions. Just take a look at the Ultra quiet reef tank plumbing video.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/...lumbing-videos

Hope this helps,
Herbie