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05/28/2010, 05:16 PM | #1401 | |
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strange i am having cyano problems . i thought the pellets should get rid of it |
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05/28/2010, 05:28 PM | #1402 |
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would it be advantagious for me to ADD po4 to my tank, in the hopes of the bacteria having the proper "balance" of N&P to better reduce my nitrate levels? And if so, what product should I use to raise my p level?
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dave Current Tank Info: 58g reef, 60 total gallons including rocks and sand, 36" 6 bulb ATI Powermodule, DAS skimmer, Bio pellets, 2 MP10 vortechs |
05/29/2010, 07:37 AM | #1403 |
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I would not add PO4 and don't know of a specific safe product if I wanted too. Waste and food will add organic phosphate which will utimately provide it.
Surface reef waters hold only 0.005 ppm PO4. So it is very unlikely bacteria are limited for a lack of PO4.Ratios of carbon, nitrogen and phosphate for various organisms vary somewhat. . The redfiefeld ratio ,based on phyto plankton as I recall , is 116 carbon to 16 nitrogen to 1 phosphate.
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Tom Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals. |
05/29/2010, 07:58 AM | #1404 | |
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Slowly consuming the GHA (or N/P in the GHA) , after the GHA was completly gonne the cyano stayed another 4 to 6 weeks on the spots where i before had the GHA. In that time i too dosed biodigest and bioptim , to add some new strains of bacteria , it helped a little bit. But i stil would get cyano on the low flow areas in the display (on the sand where my LR lays , then i started to water change more frequently (1 time a week 10 %, before 10% every 2 weeks) and siphoning just the spots where cyano is . After another 3 weeks the cyano was reduced greatly and the rate in wich it came back was much slower. Then i stopped dosing prodebio , w/o any issues Now the cyano comes back after a week on a real small spot (1/2 '') , telling my it's time to water change again. this is the reason that i believe bacteria are one thing , a good skimmer and water changes are an absolute must. When one findes the sweet spot you have to maintain that practise. greetingzz tntneon
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May the flow be with you ! Current Tank Info: 154 G SPS dominated + 25 G sump ; lighting : 210 W LED XPG/XRE (sunrise) + 150 W T5 (bl+ , 15°K , fiji , bl+) ; skimmer : Royal Exclusive supermarine 200 ; BM 3-Ch dosing pump (CA/ ALk and top-off) ; tunze 6085 circulation |
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05/30/2010, 10:05 PM | #1405 |
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If the bacteria are phosphorus limited, adding some might help, although arranging an appropriately sized dose might be an issue, due to the small amount invoked. I don't know where to get a clean supply of phosphate, but there might be one somewhere.
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05/31/2010, 12:59 AM | #1406 |
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well it really sounds too risky now. I have a 58g tank, that has about 80 ppm of trates. So I'm wondering now if the 500ml of pellets that I got (rated for 100g) is just not enough for that many nitrates? Does anyone think I should try adding anothher 250-500ml?
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dave Current Tank Info: 58g reef, 60 total gallons including rocks and sand, 36" 6 bulb ATI Powermodule, DAS skimmer, Bio pellets, 2 MP10 vortechs |
05/31/2010, 01:23 AM | #1407 | |
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How is your ph doing? I would add more but would be careful to monitor ph.
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05/31/2010, 01:46 AM | #1408 | |
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I would do it slowly. ie if your nutrients are still high and pH remains good after a few weeks of use, add 1-200 ml more BP and repeat the cycle.... If you get cloudy water or Ph drops, add an air pump with a stone in the sump.... they work very well. Mo |
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05/31/2010, 08:47 AM | #1409 | |
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If the tank has a large nitrate reserve and no phosphate you need to determine where all the phosphate is going. Or if maybe enough isn't being imported. Things sound out of balance and when there is a large imbalance I am not so sure the beneficial bacteria themselves can normalize this in any appreciable amount of time without some assistance. I'm not advocating dosing or fertilizing PO4 but there are other things that can be done dependent on the cause of the imbalance. Are you using GFO or other phosphate sponge, have any actively growing algaes, also what foods do you use and how much do you feed? |
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05/31/2010, 04:22 PM | #1410 |
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I have a friend who's thinking of using NP Biopellets, but his question is, can they be used having chaeto on his refugium? or does he have to eliminate the chaeto?
Thanks.
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"Who lives in a pineapple under the sea?...SPONGEBOB SQUAREPANTS!" Current Tank Info: 75g mixed reef |
05/31/2010, 04:33 PM | #1411 |
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Vote for June's Thread of the Month!
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Brian June 2013 TOTM Current Tank Info: 270 Starphire by Miracles in Glass*BK 250 Internal*Sequence Blackfin 1800*(2) 6105 Tunzes Streams*(3) 400 watt Blueline E-Ballast*400w 20k Radiums*(3) Lumanarc III*GEO 624 Ca Reactor*Tunze Osmolotor*PM SR45 and TLF PhosBan Reactor 150*Apex |
05/31/2010, 08:49 PM | #1412 |
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It looks like I'm getting a very light dusting of cyano. Will try to dose MB7 to see if it helps. Currently at 2 weeks.
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Tran Current Tank Info: Waterbox 130.4 |
05/31/2010, 08:51 PM | #1413 |
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I voted for this thread for TOTM. I was the first vote.
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Daniel Restarting my tank 90g 20g Life Reef sump 5ft Life Reef Skimmer See my album for pre-build tank pictures. |
05/31/2010, 10:29 PM | #1414 | |
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90g RR SPS dominate. WM K2 skimmer /red nw. 60g fuge/sump. Upgraded Coralife Pro 250w w/ dual Galaxy and 14K Phoenix with 2x96 SPS dual actinic. Apex controller with WXM and two MP40s. Herbie overflow. Now running Warner Marine EcoBAK bio pellets. |
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05/31/2010, 10:41 PM | #1415 |
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i am still doing full Zeo while in 2d week of 1l of pellets. Zeo may go sooner rather than later!
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Tony Romano Why don't I have any money? Current Tank Info: 215 & 90 mixed tanks |
06/01/2010, 01:00 AM | #1416 | |
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I 'm using the pellets in combination with a ball of chaeto in the fuge . I would advise to begin with the low amount of pellets (see instructions) and slowly increase them. With me at first my chaeto was getting lighter colored and more brittle once nutrients where undetectable (using salifert) , this was with the max. amout of pellets. I didn't reduced the amount of pellets , but i changed my lighting from 9 w to 26 w lamp(6500 k) and now my chaeto is back dark green and i have fairly good growth rates (considering the carbon dosing) and also full of pods , one of the reasons that i'll keep having the ball of chaeto. Whauw never thought that a thread i started would become nominated for thread of the month , thx guys.... greetingzz tntneon
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May the flow be with you ! Current Tank Info: 154 G SPS dominated + 25 G sump ; lighting : 210 W LED XPG/XRE (sunrise) + 150 W T5 (bl+ , 15°K , fiji , bl+) ; skimmer : Royal Exclusive supermarine 200 ; BM 3-Ch dosing pump (CA/ ALk and top-off) ; tunze 6085 circulation |
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06/01/2010, 10:31 AM | #1417 | |
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Tran Current Tank Info: Waterbox 130.4 |
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06/01/2010, 12:45 PM | #1418 | |
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I also think a maintenance dose helps to keep pests in check.. |
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06/01/2010, 01:25 PM | #1419 |
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Has anyone using these NP pellets used them in conjuction with nutrient export through macroalgea growth or an algae turf scrubber??
Do the pellets drop nutrients too low for these methods of nutrient management to be implemented?? I'd like to keep a bin of chaeto growing and keep my ATS's running simply for pod reproduction. I don't really care if these pellets limit growth of the macros or derbesia on the ATS, but I wouldn't want to strip the water so that it starves the intended algea growth. Thanks. Jeremy |
06/02/2010, 01:06 AM | #1420 | |
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I'm using the max. amount of pellets , and i have a volleyball of chaeto in my fuge. At fist the chaeto suffered a bit by becoming lighter colored and more brittle , but i was using a small 9 w pl light , i swapped it for a 26 w grow t5 lamp (6500 k) and now it's back full of pods and growing well , and very dark green colored. I think my chaeto was limited by the amount of light and with low lighting it's more difficult to reach for those low range nutrients (N/P). my nitrates are 0.1 ppm and phosphates are undetectable ( with salifert) , i'll be ordering my phosphorus ULR checker from hanna soon Also i'm gonna buy this afternoon a new camera (canon 500 D) then i can post beautifull pictures w/o the blue blurr.... greetingzz tntneon
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May the flow be with you ! Current Tank Info: 154 G SPS dominated + 25 G sump ; lighting : 210 W LED XPG/XRE (sunrise) + 150 W T5 (bl+ , 15°K , fiji , bl+) ; skimmer : Royal Exclusive supermarine 200 ; BM 3-Ch dosing pump (CA/ ALk and top-off) ; tunze 6085 circulation Last edited by tntneon; 06/02/2010 at 01:23 AM. |
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06/02/2010, 01:15 AM | #1421 | |
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dude...get the 550D. It's not much more and trust me it's really nice. And more features to choose from.
Quote:
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dave Current Tank Info: 58g reef, 60 total gallons including rocks and sand, 36" 6 bulb ATI Powermodule, DAS skimmer, Bio pellets, 2 MP10 vortechs |
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06/02/2010, 01:27 AM | #1422 | |
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thx for the tip That was my dillema 500d or 550 d , yesterday my friend was here with an 500 d and shot some realy nice shots of my tank. Will see in the shop if my wallet can handle the 550 D ... greetingzz tntneon
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May the flow be with you ! Current Tank Info: 154 G SPS dominated + 25 G sump ; lighting : 210 W LED XPG/XRE (sunrise) + 150 W T5 (bl+ , 15°K , fiji , bl+) ; skimmer : Royal Exclusive supermarine 200 ; BM 3-Ch dosing pump (CA/ ALk and top-off) ; tunze 6085 circulation |
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06/02/2010, 01:32 AM | #1423 |
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The 550 will get you even better photos. Pm me if you want...i don't wanna derail the thread.
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dave Current Tank Info: 58g reef, 60 total gallons including rocks and sand, 36" 6 bulb ATI Powermodule, DAS skimmer, Bio pellets, 2 MP10 vortechs |
06/02/2010, 10:10 AM | #1424 | |
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Anyone else growing macros or using an ATS while using the NP pellets?? Jeremy |
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06/02/2010, 10:17 AM | #1425 |
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I have several types of macro growing..
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