SC Aquariums Owners Thread

[soulpatch]

Dont use rubber hose per say as then you are using barbs to connect them and thus restricting flow. Spa flex is rubberized PVC basically so it glues to PVC fittings the same but is flexible to a degree and as such reduces vibrations.

Silicone pot mats are great for under pumps as well.

[robgarbo]

Hello,

So I am thinking of getting the SC 150 that is on sale but, I am concerned with how low the water level is from the top of the edge. I don't mind the eurobracing as I have seen it on other tanks but the water level seemed to sit similar to the rimless tanks. I do like the rimless and after seeing that photo from yesterday, I think as much as I like that style, don't think I can swing the cost on that one. I am partial to the ghost over flow and wonder if that is an option with the regular eurobraced model. I didn't really get an answer that I understood when I called Steve the other day. Not sure he understood what I really wanted. He said he could drill tanks but, I would not want the reef ready box in the back middle.
If anyone would be able to share pictures and advice, I would appreciate it.
I won't be using a canopy and really like the rimless look but, have seen on here some nightmare stories about tanks falling apart and that scares me with the rimless that size. I have a 125 flat back hex acrylic but after we recently moved and the water was drained, seeing all the scratches really makes me want to buff that tank. I have had it for almost 20 years and maybe time for a new option. Plus the background is blue and after that much time, think I would like black. It is a Tenneco tank so it was a decent product back in the day.
Thoughts, opinions, advice would be greatly appreciated.

[robgarbo]

******* tank. Damn autocorrect!

[moondoggy4]

robgarbo The 150 are out of stock as you know and they will be building new ones at the sale price (tempting) You could have the tank built the way you want it and hopefully at the discount. I am in Ca so euro braced tanks are very popular (earthquakes) but since you will have a canopy how bout a modified EB tanks so you can have the ghost overflow and then the 4 corners with bracing not sure if that would work but you could talk it over with Steve.

I bought a ghost overflow for my 40 breeder build.

[ReefCowboy]

Originally Posted by robgarbo

Hello,

So I am thinking of getting the SC 150 that is on sale but, I am concerned with how low the water level is from the top of the edge. I don't mind the eurobracing as I have seen it on other tanks but the water level seemed to sit similar to the rimless tanks. I do like the rimless and after seeing that photo from yesterday, I think as much as I like that style, don't think I can swing the cost on that one. I am partial to the ghost over flow and wonder if that is an option with the regular eurobraced model. I didn't really get an answer that I understood when I called Steve the other day. Not sure he understood what I really wanted. He said he could drill tanks but, I would not want the reef ready box in the back middle.
If anyone would be able to share pictures and advice, I would appreciate it.
I won't be using a canopy and really like the rimless look but, have seen on here some nightmare stories about tanks falling apart and that scares me with the rimless that size. I have a 125 flat back hex acrylic but after we recently moved and the water was drained, seeing all the scratches really makes me want to buff that tank. I have had it for almost 20 years and maybe time for a new option. Plus the background is blue and after that much time, think I would like black. It is a Tenneco tank so it was a decent product back in the day.
Thoughts, opinions, advice would be greatly appreciated.

Im not sure how low the water level is on the eurobraced ones, my mistake was I decided to remove the tower overflow and drilled the tank in an attempt to do a synergy 16" overflow instead(looking for the pic from a few posts ago). Because of the eurobrace and new overflow the level dropped another 1" so ended up being way low for my own taste. The standard overflow and eurobracing seems to have ok water level, I was just also dissapointed that they instal the eurobracing pieces WAY low, almost 2" below the top wasting height of the tank

I called Steve to comment on my mistake and then he mentioned about these new rimless tanks coming, with the water level higher for those who like it that way, already also predrilled for synergy 20" overflow, which helped me so I dont have to drill it myself and use the overflow of choice.

[ReefCowboy]

Originally Posted by ReefCowboy

In my tank, the side eurobrace glass pieces are 0.5" from the top, and the front and rear are glued below them, at 1" from the top of the tank. The top of the internal ghost overflow box is maybe 1/4" from the lowest eurobrace piece(front one). I could not set the box higher than that since the silicon glue from the eurobracing didnt allow the box to make contact.

The overflow manufacturer states that flow should make the water level be 1.5" below the top of the overflow box, so my water level is now set at 2.5-3" below the top of the tank.

Im trying to figure what is the distance from the bottom of the teeth of the overflow to the front eurobracing piece, so I can sort of understand if my water level is about normal with the standard intended level by the manufacturer.

I could also allow the level to be set higher, and decrease the distance from the water level to the top of the tank, but that is my last resort. I wonder what are the consequences and If i will even be allowed to do so with three drains coming out of my outside box..

Here are some pics with the overflow in place:

Here is the overflow with the old eurobraced tank

[robgarbo]

Originally Posted by robgarbo

Hello,

So I am thinking of getting the SC 150 that is on sale but, I am concerned with how low the water level is from the top of the edge. I don't mind the eurobracing as I have seen it on other tanks but the water level seemed to sit similar to the rimless tanks. I do like the rimless and after seeing that photo from yesterday, I think as much as I like that style, don't think I can swing the cost on that one. I am partial to the ghost over flow and wonder if that is an option with the regular eurobraced model. I didn't really get an answer that I understood when I called Steve the other day. Not sure he understood what I really wanted. He said he could drill tanks but, I would not want the reef ready box in the back middle.
If anyone would be able to share pictures and advice, I would appreciate it.
I won't be using a canopy and really like the rimless look but, have seen on here some nightmare stories about tanks falling apart and that scares me with the rimless that size. I have a 125 flat back hex acrylic but after we recently moved and the water was drained, seeing all the scratches really makes me want to buff that tank. I have had it for almost 20 years and maybe time for a new option. Plus the background is blue and after that much time, think I would like black. It is a Tenneco tank so it was a decent product back in the day.
Thoughts, opinions, advice would be greatly appreciated.

Originally Posted by moondoggy4

robgarbo The 150 are out of stock as you know and they will be building new ones at the sale price (tempting) You could have the tank built the way you want it and hopefully at the discount. I am in Ca so euro braced tanks are very popular (earthquakes) but since you will have a canopy how bout a modified EB tanks so you can have the ghost overflow and then the 4 corners with bracing not sure if that would work but you could talk it over with Steve.

I bought a ghost overflow for my 40 breeder build.

I actually won't have a canopy. I want to get away from that look and like how clean the rimless looks without the canopy. Even seeing the water line up and with some salt it still looks cool and doesn't seem as obnoxious as some builds with monster canopies.

[strat1960s]

My SCA 50 gal tank arrived this afternoon. I'm like a kid at Christmas.
Delivery guy was totally awesome too. Not only did he unload it for me, he put it in my garage, and waited for me to pull open the box and inspect the contents.

WOW!

However, I was planning to keep it simple and go with the Durso plumbing. However, my tank has three 1 inch holes drilled in the back. I just skimmed over the conversations of the other styles of plumbing. Looks like I'll need to go back and re-read that or plug the third hole.

Also, is there supposed to be a gap between the plastic weir and the glass box? The sides are right up against the glass, but there's a decent sized gap between the front plastic and the glass.

Did I already say "WOW!"?

Ted

[ryshark]

Originally Posted by strat1960s

My SCA 50 gal tank arrived this afternoon. I'm like a kid at Christmas.
Delivery guy was totally awesome too. Not only did he unload it for me, he put it in my garage, and waited for me to pull open the box and inspect the contents.

WOW!

However, I was planning to keep it simple and go with the Durso plumbing. However, my tank has three 1 inch holes drilled in the back. I just skimmed over the conversations of the other styles of plumbing. Looks like I'll need to go back and re-read that or plug the third hole.

Also, is there supposed to be a gap between the plastic weir and the glass box? The sides are right up against the glass, but there's a decent sized gap between the front plastic and the glass.

Did I already say "WOW!"?

Ted

Congrats on the new tank!
Yes there is a gap between the black overflow box and the glass overflow box. Why plug one the 3 holes? I just finished plumbing my 66-gallon today.

[Reef Dude]

Originally Posted by strat1960s

My SCA 50 gal tank arrived this afternoon. I'm like a kid at Christmas.
Delivery guy was totally awesome too. Not only did he unload it for me, he put it in my garage, and waited for me to pull open the box and inspect the contents.

WOW!

However, I was planning to keep it simple and go with the Durso plumbing. However, my tank has three 1 inch holes drilled in the back. I just skimmed over the conversations of the other styles of plumbing. Looks like I'll need to go back and re-read that or plug the third hole.

Also, is there supposed to be a gap between the plastic weir and the glass box? The sides are right up against the glass, but there's a decent sized gap between the front plastic and the glass.

Did I already say "WOW!"?

Ted

I recently received a 50 gal tank, and it also had 3 1-inch holes drilled. Don't plug one of the holes. With my tank, I did a Beananimal drain using all 3 holes, and I took my return line over the back of the tank. If you don't want to run the return over the back of the tank, you could run a herbie style drain and the third hole for your return. Lots of info on RC on these different styles of drain lines. Congrats on the new tank, and have fun setting it up!

[strat1960s]

Reef Dude and ry shark,

I think I'll the use the Herbie method, one primary drain, one emergency drain, and one return. I'm a ways away from that though. I got started on my stand this afternoon. It would have been easier if I worked in my shop (aka the garage). My shop was taken over by a car and all the plants I don't want to die this winter from multiple freezes. Supposed to get one tonight. Anyways, I was working on the frame of the stand. I'm using the "King of DIY" stand plan. There a ton of 2x4s in this thing.. But there isn't much room inside the stand. I may scrap it and use 2x2s or 2x3s instead.

Anyways, I probably won't get much further with the stand until the temps get above 30. We'll see.

Ted

[ryshark]

Originally Posted by strat1960s

Reef Dude and ry shark,

I think I'll the use the Herbie method, one primary drain, one emergency drain, and one return. I'm a ways away from that though. I got started on my stand this afternoon. It would have been easier if I worked in my shop (aka the garage). My shop was taken over by a car and all the plants I don't want to die this winter from multiple freezes. Supposed to get one tonight. Anyways, I was working on the frame of the stand. I'm using the "King of DIY" stand plan. There a ton of 2x4s in this thing.. But there isn't much room inside the stand. I may scrap it and use 2x2s or 2x3s instead.

Anyways, I probably won't get much further with the stand until the temps get above 30. We'll see.

Ted

I did herbie too. You can probably build the same oak stand that SCA sells for your tank. It doesn't use a bunch of 2x4s so there is lots of room in the stand, considering the footprint.

[texdoc77]

Originally Posted by ryshark

I did herbie too. You can probably build the same oak stand that SCA sells for your tank. It doesn't use a bunch of 2x4s so there is lots of room in the stand, considering the footprint.

Agree, herbie is the way to go with the three pre drilled holes with the SCA tanks, I have a 150 build thread as well here.

[kaigoss]

I have the 66G and a single Kassil 360WE and would love to hear opinions about color and intensity settings for this setup (or similar ones). Right now I only have one invert - an Anemone. The light sits 9.5" off the water surface, and the nem is 7" below water level. Total distance sanded to water level is 17".

Thanks!

[moondoggy4]

^^^^^^ Start low on the Kassil maybe 25% and see how the anemone responds if it is lifting then more light if it is shrieking less light.

[kaigoss]

Originally Posted by moondoggy4

^^^^^^ Start low on the Kassil maybe 25% and see how the anemone responds if it is lifting then more light if it is shrieking less light.

Thanks. I've had it for a few weeks and up until now the controls on the Kassil were manual. During that time I probably had it set anywhere between 33% and 75% intensity, with about 50 - 75% color. It didn't seem to mind any of those settings, or maybe I don't know what to look for either...

I feed the nem a small piece of shrimp once a week and it is eating normally and it is fully inflated 90% of the time. It also has not moved since I put it in ~ 3 weeks ago.

[soulpatch]

My nem stayed in its spot for 8+ months then decided he wanted to go somewhere else. Just be prepared for movement...

[Potatohead]

I ran a herbie on mine also. The only thing I don't like about a herbie (this is my second) is the water level tends to fluctuate in the overflow a few inches depending on atmospheric pressure and other factors. I may decide to run a slow trickle down the emergency line, but I'd rather not. The way the overflow is designed with the glass inside is absolutely awesome because the water level can be quite far down and still have virtually no noise.

[soulpatch]

I run a herbie and I have no flucuation in my water line of more then perhaps a mm or two. If you are raising/lower a couple inches then you have somethign else going on.

[Potatohead]

Originally Posted by soulpatch

I run a herbie and I have no flucuation in my water line of more then perhaps a mm or two. If you are raising/lower a couple inches then you have somethign else going on.

Physics says that's not possible, although that's cool if yours works well. There is always going to be something affecting your drain and return rate, whether it be build up in the pipes or a dozen other factors. Even the standing water level in the return section of your sump changing before your ATO kicks in changes it. This is why a lot of people run a trickle down the emergency drain so any fluctuations upwards just goes down the e-drain and keeps the level more constant, and it's the whole reason a Beananimal drain exists.

[soulpatch]

Bean is no more consistant than herbie but has second emergency

Yes buildup and such can impact things but over the long haul and not short term. If you have rises and drops daily then you have something else impacting your system.

Standing water level in sump would not impact the level of the DT unless your pump starts to run dry. If the pump is pumping the same amount of water the amount in the return section is moot to the level in the DT.

[Potatohead]

Originally Posted by soulpatch

Bean is no more consistant than herbie but has second emergency

Yes buildup and such can impact things but over the long haul and not short term. If you have rises and drops daily then you have something else impacting your system.

Standing water level in sump would not impact the level of the DT unless your pump starts to run dry. If the pump is pumping the same amount of water the amount in the return section is moot to the level in the DT.

I don't really want to argue about this and we are getting off topic, but again physics disagrees. Standing water level changes head pressure which changes return flow rate. Clogging filter socks slow the drain rate, etc etc.

You are correct in that neither system is more consistent than the other, but that's the point. They are pretty consistent overall but they are not perfect, and even small fluctuations cause overflow level changes.

The work around is to set your lowest level with just a tiny trickle so any time the level rises, the excess goes down the emergency drain and the level in the overflow remains constant. The Bean came along because he was concerned this trickle could allow something into the e-drain to block it, so a second (dry) e-drain was added. You are also very slightly reducing the capacity of your emergency running a trickle. In reality, most systems that are designed properly will not overwhelm the first e-drain, nor should they have enough water in the return section to flood the tank in the event of complete drain blockage - But this of course would likely kill the return pump if it was left to suck air for long, although that's better than a flooded room.

Another work around is to throttle back the return pump very slightly so that when it is flowing more freely or with less head pressure/higher return chamber level, it is held back to where it was set.

Most people running Herbie's do get an inch or two of movement, but with a large enough system it's not enough change to really matter, especially considering most people have the siphon drain and emergency drain heights at least 6" apart.

[homer1475]

I run a herbie and would have to agree with soul on this one.

Other then a couple MM in the overflow, mine never fluctuates, and I never have to move the gate valve now that I have it set properly. I have mine set so the water is right up to the top of the E-drain but not trickling down. it only starts to trickle when the socks are plugged up. Change out the sock and the water level is right back to where it was.

[soulpatch]

Originally Posted by Potatohead

Most people running Herbie's do get an inch or two of movement, but with a large enough system it's not enough change to really matter, especially considering most people have the siphon drain and emergency drain heights at least 6" apart.

No no they dont. If you had said Durso then I would agree but those with Herbie/bean are not typically getting that type of movement and I run my emergency dry on my herbie.

Matching your return to your drain is key and it sounds as if you have other issues goin on. Physics plays a role yes but the flucuation in head pressure before an ato kicks on drives perhaps a mm or two difference. Grime in pipes is over time and accounted for with maintenance or gate valves. If you have that flucuation of inches in your overflow you have other things going on.

Feel free to ping me for access to my webcam and I will get you the details tonight if you think its not possible...I have no qualms showing a darn near constant (within a couple mm) water level in overflow all day...

[Potatohead]

Originally Posted by soulpatch

No no they dont.

Really?

http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-...method-basics/

There can't really be any other issues, unless you have six 90's or something in your drain line, and even then it shouldn't really matter until you are trying to re-start the siphon.

I am basing my opinion on my old setup and this setup is only a few days old since I just got this new tank. I will monitor it for a few days and report back. I still think the design of these overflows on the systems is quite good.


Anyway, I'm glad your system is working well for you