Chinese LED Lights

[KindCorals]

Originally Posted by monkiboy

on the white channel. your other channel will likely be all blue for your intended goal.

You think UV and violet too even though they dont really affect the visible light we see but 'can' have a great effect on the coloration of coral?

Originally Posted by YoungREEFA

yeah i feel like the greens are taking up real estate, i think i might do more uv but if there is still the burning issue.....

I have been talking with Helen at EG (she is great btw) and she said this issue was with the old emitters. She said they are Epistar and the problem has been resolved. She also said they will replace the LEDs if there is an issue but I forget if she said they are covered by the 1 or 3 year warranty. Either way, sounds good to me and for $1.6 USD each, Im going to order a few extra with my order.

[YoungREEFA]

Thank you for clearing that up!
and BUMP to your above post, the peak does seem to be 440!

[KindCorals]

Originally Posted by YoungREEFA

BUMP to your above post, the peak does seem to be 440!

I guess the other thing to think about is that these colors 440/450, green, red, orange are what the zooxanthellae absorb. By making sure the zooxanthellae have all of the spectrum they would normally absorb, I would think that this would lead to healthy zooxanthellae colony inside each healthy coral but doesnt the zooxanthellae usually account for the brown color in corals? While I dont think it is necessarily 'right' to try and not have the healthiest coral possible, I dont think any of us are in the hobby for brown looking corals. I would think that zooxanthellae would get enough 'light' to grow and be healthy based on the success others have had with these and other non-complete spectrum led lights so is adding all these extra colors really necessary to promote colorful coral? I am leaning towards no now and wondering if the spots for green/red and even some blue would be better off using UV range emitters. There does seem to be a fine line though with using too many UV that end up bleaching coral but is it really the fault of the UV emitters or the overall power of the fixture that bleaches the coral?

More food for thought..

[bhazard451]

Originally Posted by Tmoriarty

Not to doubt any of your findings, you have done a lot in research of these china black boxes, but based on what I have seen you have not experienced growing a full SPS reef tank with any LED setup. So while they may work for you so far does not mean you have the experience to say they will work for everyone.

With that said I do agree that the proper full spectrum LED's will keep corals just fine I think people using the blue/white combos have the ability to grow corals as well, with the proper wattage. I think that most people just seriously over estimate the power of their LED's and buy some of the old 1w led fixtures which were not sufficient to keep SPS corals.

I would never be able to run a full SPS tank. I loved mixed tanks with lots of fish, and tend to not test parameters as much over time.

I can always test a frag of any SPS that hasn't done well under CW/RB, and document growth/color over time. I just need input from people who have experienced it on which frags to pick up.

[bhazard451]

Originally Posted by nikesb

On an another note, I see some people have stated they dont like the look that green gives off and theres not much benefit from the green LEDs. Though, I've included two 520nms in my layout for the IT2040. The only reason being that I was attempting to mimic the radion layout.

I read on another thread that cyan (480nm) maybe be better for the color temp and it helps pop out the reds better since it is a complementary color to red.

Has anyone swapped out the greens for cyan yet?

I have, but Evergrow doesn't offer Cyan leds. They would be a better choice than green, and they also visually look green.

[KindCorals]

The images seem to have disappeared in my earlier post and I cant edit it anymore

Originally Posted by KindCorals

Just some more graphs that helped me out from the Advanced Aquarist article linked earlier:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/10/aafeature

This graph shows light adsorption by zooxanthellae and is very similar to the graph posted by Ron Reefman.



This image shows light energy distribution at given depths. Surface (light blue), 5m(Blue) and 15m(dark blue). It states,

"Certain species, however, can only live close to the surface, and cannot survive even at small depths. Such species do not adapt well, not only to the weaker illumination but also to a different spectrum. Certain species of colonial polyps of the Zoantidae genus are an example of this."

This would make sense why some corals (Zoas) do need the red light that is much stronger at the surface and diminishes greatly as the water gets deeper. Green also seems to be somewhat important and it does penetrate further than red so it would make sense that most corals need green too.

[nikesb]

Originally Posted by bhazard451

I have, but Evergrow doesn't offer Cyan leds. They would be a better choice than green, and they also visually look green.

The latest layout sent to me from reefbreeders showed a 480nm option

[liamsparkey]

Originally Posted by Ron Reefman

The IT series has 120 degree leds (they all seem to be) and 90 degree lenses are standard.

The D120 has the same 120 degree leds and the 90 degree lenses are an option.

Gutted just had the following info from Sunny: (regarding the IT2080)
............................................
Dear Liam,

Good morning!

1, LEDs are also 90 degree.
.......................................................

Looks like I'm getting two x D120's full spectrum instead (the ones on the christmas offer).

Do we really need the auto dimming and moonlights or are they just gimmicks?

[Ron Reefman]

Originally Posted by liamsparkey

Do we really need the auto dimming and moonlights or are they just gimmicks?

The corals and other animals don't 'need' auto dimming, moonlights and auto on/off, but the humans who look after them seem to like all 3 of these features pretty well. Now the question is, do you need the lightning storm feature on the Radion or AI? My take is that untill they can tie it into a sound track with adjustable sound delay from zero to 5 seconds, it's a waste of space on a computer chip.

[liamsparkey]

Originally Posted by Ron Reefman

The corals and other animals don't 'need' auto dimming, moonlights and auto on/off, but the humans who look after them seem to like all 3 of these features pretty well. Now the question is, do you need the lightning storm feature on the Radion or AI? My take is that untill they can tie it into a sound track with adjustable sound delay from zero to 5 seconds, it's a waste of space on a computer chip.

........or add a relay contact to the fitting so that when the 'storm' comes you can turn on a powerhead with a spraybar for the 'rain'!!.....

[vhinz]

Originally Posted by fsu1dolfan

Question - I have an IT2040. I still have the old controller with the time that is off...the replacement is in the mail but i was on vacation this weekend and the power went out. It seems that my custom setting has reverted but to the default custom setting. Is this normal with power outages?? Or is it just the controller I have and the new one shouldnt do this?? Please help.

what version of the controller are you using? v1.0, v1.1?

my It2040 is powered by the v1.1 controller and I've also experienced this problem when power went out, I asked Sunny and told me to go to menu -> factory > "cancel" then restart your system and key in your custom settings. It worked for me now even the power went out my settings are still there.

This happened because the controller itself is set to menu > factory > "enter" so everytime there will be a power outage when it restart it will restore to its factory settings.

[fsu1dolfan]

Originally Posted by fsu1dolfan

Question - I have an IT2040. I still have the old controller with the time that is off...the replacement is in the mail but i was on vacation this weekend and the power went out. It seems that my custom setting has reverted but to the default custom setting. Is this normal with power outages?? Or is it just the controller I have and the new one shouldnt do this?? Please help.

Update -
So it seems as though all my settings are still saved but my settings are under the 30 minute step increment. So somehow my custom setting jumped to the hour step increment which i did not customize....therefor it seems as though it went back to default. So now the question is, Is there a way to have the custom setting default to the 30 minute increment so in case i lose power it wont jump back to the hour increment?

[solpete]

Originally Posted by vhinz

what version of the controller are you using? v1.0, v1.1?

my It2040 is powered by the v1.1 controller and I've also experienced this problem when power went out, I asked Sunny and told me to go to menu -> factory > "cancel" then restart your system and key in your custom settings. It worked for me now even the power went out my settings are still there.

This happened because the controller itself is set to menu > factory > "enter" so everytime there will be a power outage when it restart it will restore to its factory settings.

Do you know if its a PWM signal from the controller or if its analogue (that reaches the LED drivers)?

[fsu1dolfan]

Originally Posted by vhinz

what version of the controller are you using? v1.0, v1.1?

my It2040 is powered by the v1.1 controller and I've also experienced this problem when power went out, I asked Sunny and told me to go to menu -> factory > "cancel" then restart your system and key in your custom settings. It worked for me now even the power went out my settings are still there.

This happened because the controller itself is set to menu > factory > "enter" so everytime there will be a power outage when it restart it will restore to its factory settings.

Not sure i havent opened it up yet. I do know that it's the one with the time issue. I have the vendor sending me a new controller in the mail. So once i get it and install the new one...i will let you know. I might just do the custom setting for the hour setting just in case. At least it will be quicker to reprogram as oppsed to the half hour which was tedious.

[frank11]

Does anybody know the difference of floodlight(spread) or coverage of light,between the reefbreeder fixtures IT 2080 and the razor maxspect 160W?Both have 90° optics .Tank is 64"29"25" and they will come 12" above the water.I am going for 2 fixtures.Price is the same.

[parQue]

Originally Posted by KindCorals

Looking at this graph, why is everyone using mostly 450nm and not 440nm since the peak looks to be at 440nm?

Any idea of how a mostly 440nm light will look to us compared to one that uses mostly 450nm?

Just some more graphs that helped me out from the Advanced Aquarist article linked earlier:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/10/aafeature

This graph shows light adsorption by zooxanthellae and is very similar to the graph posted by Ron Reefman.



This image shows light energy distribution at given depths. Surface (light blue), 5m(Blue) and 15m(dark blue). It states,

"Certain species, however, can only live close to the surface, and cannot survive even at small depths. Such species do not adapt well, not only to the weaker illumination but also to a different spectrum. Certain species of colonial polyps of the Zoantidae genus are an example of this."

This would make sense why some corals (Zoas) do need the red light that is much stronger at the surface and diminishes greatly as the water gets deeper. Green also seems to be somewhat important and it does penetrate further than red so it would make sense that most corals need green too.

nice reference. thx man!

[lbannie]

Just got a layout back from reefbreeders! I want the more blueish look. Does this seem like a good one? Would you change anything? Thanks!!
32" 200watt BRIDGELUX
It's one model with 3 channels : 48+48+3=99pcs
Total actrual power: 212-245W
Total LEDS: 99pcs x 3WATT

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24
1 WW WW WW WW

2

3

4 WW WW WW WW
Connecting with three channels:
C1 480nm 3500k WW
C2 7500k
C3 3 pcs LEDs for Moon Light 520nm
450nm
410-420nm
630nm
660nm
480nm moon

[lbannie]

Whoops. That didn't work. Try this!
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355255626.561230.jpg

[bhazard451]

Originally Posted by solpete

Do you know if its a PWM signal from the controller or if its analogue (that reaches the LED drivers)?

Neither. It's resistance dimming.

[solpete]

On the it 2040?? I thought the LCD/thingy sent a PWM...

Skickat från min EndeavorU via Tapatalk 2

[solpete]

Originally Posted by bhazard451

Neither. It's resistance dimming.

On the 2040?

Skickat från min EndeavorU via Tapatalk 2

[benjc]

Frank11 - The 2x the IT2080 may be a bit much; I'm getting one of them to cover a 48" tank. Two of the IT2060's may be better for covering 64" of tank, otherwise you may have some decent light spillage out from the two ends of the tank. Also, the IT LEDs go almost to the edge of the fixture, while the Razor, although being 27" has the LEDs as clusters that don't extend to the edge of the fixture (at least from the photos I've seen).

[vhinz]

Originally Posted by fsu1dolfan

Update -
So it seems as though all my settings are still saved but my settings are under the 30 minute step increment. So somehow my custom setting jumped to the hour step increment which i did not customize....therefor it seems as though it went back to default. So now the question is, Is there a way to have the custom setting default to the 30 minute increment so in case i lose power it wont jump back to the hour increment?

Yes there is a way to custom set it by 30min increment. Just be sure that you select the 30 minute increment when you have save your settings.

[blur456]

Can someone please post or pm me reefbreeders email or phone number? I need to follow up on my order. Thanks.

[Kurt03]

What would be needed to cover a 210gal 72x24x30? (SPS and Mixed reef)
2 IT2080's? 4 IT2040's? Other recommendations?