SC Aquariums Owners Thread

[soulpatch]

Originally Posted by Potatohead

Really?

http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-...method-basics/


Anyway, I'm glad your system is working well for you

Not sure why you are posting that. Reason for 6inch difference is not the raising and lowering in the overflow. It is so you can have the water level high without sucking in air from the main drain. Nothing on the site leads credence to your comments about raising and lowering inches.

My comment about the durso was if you are using that style pipe for the main drain as opposed to an open pipe as on the gmac site then you are dealing with air and that WILL cause the overflow to raise and lower but a decent margin.

I suggest you ping Herbie. he is on here and has his own thread. I think you need to go over your setup with him as you have something wrong with that amount of water movement. If I were to lay claim I would think you have air in your system altering your water flows as the pocket builds then is purged. But too many of us rock the setup with numerous videos online and/or webcams you can jump onto to see that the type of movement you are talking about is not normal.

[soulpatch]

Originally Posted by Potatohead

I am basing my opinion on my old setup and this setup is only a few days old since I just got this new tank. I will monitor it for a few days and report back. I still think the design of these overflows on the systems is quite good.

Feel free to post up pics of your current plumbing in here too for us to take a look. Plenty of people have caught my moments where I was blind to something under my tank and more recently in it with water parameters going out of whack.

[Potatohead]

Originally Posted by soulpatch

Not sure why you are posting that. Reason for 6inch difference is not the raising and lowering in the overflow. It is so you can have the water level high without sucking in air from the main drain. Nothing on the site leads credence to your comments about raising and lowering inches.

My comment about the durso was if you are using that style pipe for the main drain as opposed to an open pipe as on the gmac site then you are dealing with air and that WILL cause the overflow to raise and lower but a decent margin.

I suggest you ping Herbie. he is on here and has his own thread. I think you need to go over your setup with him as you have something wrong with that amount of water movement. If I were to lay claim I would think you have air in your system altering your water flows as the pocket builds then is purged. But too many of us rock the setup with numerous videos online and/or webcams you can jump onto to see that the type of movement you are talking about is not normal.

Sorry I just re-read your post and I misconstrued what you said - I thought you said most people don't have a six inch spread from drain to emergency, but you actually said they don't have a couple inch spread in the overflow level.

As I edited above this system has only been running a couple days so I will monitor it and report back. My previous system had about 3/4" variance but the overflow was also very small. Believe me, I want nothing more than for it to maintain a mainly constant level in this setup. My drain consists of exactly what came in the SCA kit, which is a 90° elbow at the bulkhead exit and then soft line to a gate valve installed at the end in a vertical position right above a filter sock, it is as simple as it can get.

[soulpatch]

I woudl flip the 90 for a 45 if you can. 90s can trap air. Herbie does take some trial and error as you have to slowly mess witht he gate valve on the return to align with the needs of your tank but once you get it you will see how stable it is.

I adjust my system perhaps once every 6 months but otherwise stays silent and stable.

Good luck and if you continue to have any variance post up and let us know. I have a ton of help I need to try to repay to the community over the course of my last 2+ years on this site.

[TechnicalFisher]

After looking for a long time, I finally pulled the trigger on an SCA 50 Cube. Went with the PNP setup with an upgraded wood stand in white. Unfortunately we've had some shipping woes, the first tank arrived with a large scratch on the inside front glass and the second one arrived shattered. Each time, Steve has been incredibly responsive and a real pleasure to deal with. The third tank is on its way and hopefully will be here next week.

So, with time to spare, I've started working on my plumbing and had a quick question. Here's the current setup that I've mocked up (though there is going to be a union on the center pipe as well- in the same place) and I'm debating the return.

image1.jpg

I'd like to do a reactor and was considering putting a T or manifold off the return to run return water to the reactor. Ideally, I'd like to put the reactor in the fish room behind the tank, which is about a 3-4' run with maybe 3' of rise. With the standard PH2500 return pump that comes with the system am I asking for trouble trying to run the reactor off the return line rather than just putting a dedicated powerhead in the sump. I'd like to keep the sump as clean as possible but don't want to sacrifice too much flow on the return.

[CafeReef]

I honestly do not trust the PH2500 return pump that's included with the 50PNP at all. I never used it in my setup and immediately swapped it out for a DC return pump. I use the PH2500 for water changes only. I would say you will have far to much head pressure to run a reactor off a 3-4 distance and return back to the tank. Upgrade the return

[CafeReef]

also if your wanting to get creative while you have it all fresh, you can alter the sump to your own configuration. I cut all the baffles out of mine and redid the sump. Much happier now.

Once I gut all the baffles out I used a $2 glass cutter from home depot and laid out the new format.

design


final product

[ryshark]

Originally Posted by TechnicalFisher

After looking for a long time, I finally pulled the trigger on an SCA 50 Cube. Went with the PNP setup with an upgraded wood stand in white. Unfortunately we've had some shipping woes, the first tank arrived with a large scratch on the inside front glass and the second one arrived shattered. Each time, Steve has been incredibly responsive and a real pleasure to deal with. The third tank is on its way and hopefully will be here next week.

So, with time to spare, I've started working on my plumbing and had a quick question. Here's the current setup that I've mocked up (though there is going to be a union on the center pipe as well- in the same place) and I'm debating the return.

Attachment 363752

I'd like to do a reactor and was considering putting a T or manifold off the return to run return water to the reactor. Ideally, I'd like to put the reactor in the fish room behind the tank, which is about a 3-4' run with maybe 3' of rise. With the standard PH2500 return pump that comes with the system am I asking for trouble trying to run the reactor off the return line rather than just putting a dedicated powerhead in the sump. I'd like to keep the sump as clean as possible but don't want to sacrifice too much flow on the return.

You can T off your return line for a reactor, no problem. Just remember that will calculate into your head pressure. That's what I did too. One less pump and one less thing to plug in.

[ReefCowboy]

Originally Posted by CafeReef

I honestly do not trust the PH2500 return pump that's included with the 50PNP at all. I never used it in my setup and immediately swapped it out for a DC return pump. I use the PH2500 for water changes only. I would say you will have far to much head pressure to run a reactor off a 3-4 distance and return back to the tank. Upgrade the return

I don't run the Atman pumps as return, but have had them used in skimmers without any issues. What is your opinion on them?

[CafeReef]

Originally Posted by ReefCowboy

I don't run the Atman pumps as return, but have had them used in skimmers without any issues. What is your opinion on them?

I use mine as a dedicated water change pump. I have a hose on it that I submerge in my water change bucket and use it to pump new water into my tank during changes. It works 80% of the time, 20% of the time it has to be unplugged and jostled a bit to get started or will just stop. Ive seen a few other people post on the SCA facebook page having similar issues. Not saying it's necessarily a terrible pump, I just dont trust it if I am not around it is all. Personal decision.

[ryshark]

Originally Posted by CafeReef

I use mine as a dedicated water change pump. I have a hose on it that I submerge in my water change bucket and use it to pump new water into my tank during changes. It works 80% of the time, 20% of the time it has to be unplugged and jostled a bit to get started or will just stop. Ive seen a few other people post on the SCA facebook page having similar issues. Not saying it's necessarily a terrible pump, I just dont trust it if I am not around it is all. Personal decision.

I'm planning on using mine for the same purpose. Is it too powerful to drop into a 20 or 32-gallon brute trash can to mix salt / rodi?

[CafeReef]

Originally Posted by ryshark

I'm planning on using mine for the same purpose. Is it too powerful to drop into a 20 or 32-gallon brute trash can to mix salt / rodi?

Id recommend making a stand pipe for it.

Ive seen people do a verticle PVC pipe so it's like a T with 45's off the ends of the T so that it gives you a spinning/mixing motion. But no I dont think it would be to powerful. It takes me about a good minute or so to empty a 5 gallon bucket with 8 feet of head pressure through flexible tubing.

[ryshark]

Originally Posted by CafeReef

Id recommend making a stand pipe for it.

Ive seen people do a verticle PVC pipe so it's like a T with 45's off the ends of the T so that it gives you a spinning/mixing motion. But no I dont think it would be to powerful. It takes me about a good minute or so to empty a 5 gallon bucket with 8 feet of head pressure through flexible tubing.

That standpipe thing is a good idea, thanks. I'll see if I can find a picture before I make one.
I wonder if it's fine to glue pvc directly to the barn on the atman pump.?.?.

[ReefCowboy]

Originally Posted by CafeReef

I use mine as a dedicated water change pump. I have a hose on it that I submerge in my water change bucket and use it to pump new water into my tank during changes. It works 80% of the time, 20% of the time it has to be unplugged and jostled a bit to get started or will just stop. Ive seen a few other people post on the SCA facebook page having similar issues. Not saying it's necessarily a terrible pump, I just dont trust it if I am not around it is all. Personal decision.

I understand. I have a skimmer that carries two Atman PH2000'S and it does a great job, however if I shut it off when it has gone long times without maintenance, I need to lift the skimmer off the water level in order for the pumps to crank on again. I have though Maxi Jets and a sicce pump in a small skimmer (eshopps) that does the same thing. I wonder why that happens

[z3speed4me]

Hey guys.... any thoughts? Randomly noticed all my euphyllia were closed up yesterday when they were happy on Monday, checked my parameters and my nitrates jumped up to btw 20-40, I'd call it 30 as the color is in between. Nitrite and Ammonia were undetectable though.

Already went through cycle, never had this happen with my other 2 tanks. Can I try a bottle of the quick start bacteria to drop it for now? I just changed 20 gallons of water last night and am doing another 10 now for what should be almost a 50% change with new stuff (its a 75) and have my skimmer purposely skimming a nip wet to try and pull everything out of the water as possible right now.

Sump bottom already has some junk collecting on the bottom and not sure how its getting past my filter sock and skimmer (emergency has a drip, not even a trickle so it cant be coming from there). Assuming this waste excess is causing the issue, going to siphon up, but need to find the root cause. I see plenty of people use the stock sump with no issues

[TechnicalFisher]

Originally Posted by CafeReef

I honestly do not trust the PH2500 return pump that's included with the 50PNP at all. I never used it in my setup and immediately swapped it out for a DC return pump. I use the PH2500 for water changes only. I would say you will have far to much head pressure to run a reactor off a 3-4 distance and return back to the tank. Upgrade the return

Thanks CafeReef and all who responded, I didn't know the story on those PH2500's but after seeing these posts and reading up a bit it looks like that's going to be an immediate upgrade. Any suggestions on a DC pump that won't break the bank but is dependable and would have the head pressure for me to run at least one T for a reactor? I saw a couple SCA folks who have upgraded to Jebao's.

[CafeReef]

I upgraded to a jebao dct6000

[TechnicalFisher]

Originally Posted by CafeReef

I upgraded to a jebao dct6000

Great to know, thanks- that's the one I'm looking to buy. Can you tell me how you have it plumbed? I'd read about some issues with thread size on some of these pumps. I'm thinking of running a short run of tubing before hard plumbing it the rest of the way and considering a check valve near the pump. Thanks again.

[CafeReef]

Originally Posted by TechnicalFisher

Great to know, thanks- that's the one I'm looking to buy. Can you tell me how you have it plumbed? I'd read about some issues with thread size on some of these pumps. I'm thinking of running a short run of tubing before hard plumbing it the rest of the way and considering a check valve near the pump. Thanks again.

it comes with a barbed fitting. I used a short piece of flex pipe off that

[jmcdaniel0]

Hello all!

I am looking at getting a 90 Gallon PNP system from SCA. I am looking at the cost of equipment I will need to upgrade/purchase when I get the tank home.

I already plan on replacing the return pump.

The skimmer I will use for awhile, but I fully intend on upgrading it eventually.

Lighting. I have two Kessil A360WE's with the spectral controller. Do you all think they will be enough light? I plan on keeping a mixed reef, with quite a bit of SPS.

I am trying to keep this build as budget friendly as possible so any suggestions would be great!


Edit**

Also,

How hard is it to remove baffles in the sump. I would very much like to remove the Baffle that is immediately after the drain to make a nice sized refugium box.

[greaps]

Originally Posted by jmcdaniel0

Hello all!

I am looking at getting a 90 Gallon PNP system from SCA. I am looking at the cost of equipment I will need to upgrade/purchase when I get the tank home.

I already plan on replacing the return pump.

The skimmer I will use for awhile, but I fully intend on upgrading it eventually.

Lighting. I have two Kessil A360WE's with the spectral controller. Do you all think they will be enough light? I plan on keeping a mixed reef, with quite a bit of SPS.

I am trying to keep this build as budget friendly as possible so any suggestions would be great!


Edit**

Also,

How hard is it to remove baffles in the sump. I would very much like to remove the Baffle that is immediately after the drain to make a nice sized refugium box.

I think 2 Kessils 360's will be enough light. Its only 36 inches long.
I like Jebao products DCT return pumps and power heads.
I like my coral box skimmer, with jebao pump. Great price, works fine.

Research Jebao at your own risk, and you will see many like and dislike the products on this forums.

The Baffles are not hard to remove with a razor.

[jmcdaniel0]

Originally Posted by greaps

I think 2 Kessils 360's will be enough light. Its only 36 inches long.
I like Jebao products DCT return pumps and power heads.
I like my coral box skimmer, with jebao pump. Great price, works fine.

Research Jebao at your own risk, and you will see many like and dislike the products on this forums.

The Baffles are not hard to remove with a razor.

OK good deal. I didnt want to spend a small fortune on lighting the tank.

Anyone tried the Gyre powerheads? Are they worth the money?

I was thinking of eventually upgrading the skimmer to a Reef Octopus NWB-150 Needlewheel Skimmer assuming it will fit... Ill have to measure and see first.

As far as powerheads, I was considering the Gyre, but I dont know.

[greaps]

Originally Posted by jmcdaniel0

OK good deal. I didnt want to spend a small fortune on lighting the tank.

Anyone tried the Gyre powerheads? Are they worth the money?

I was thinking of eventually upgrading the skimmer to a Reef Octopus NWB-150 Needlewheel Skimmer assuming it will fit... Ill have to measure and see first.

As far as powerheads, I was considering the Gyre, but I dont know.

Have not tried the gyre out, a lot of mixed reviews on that product jebao or maxspect version. Have seen some users commenting lately that the gyre pumps are better on longer tanks.

[rtague]

Hi all,does anyone know the water level height in the 50 g cube sump,will be upgrading the skimmer,water level looks pretty low,what skimmer have you guys upgraded to on the 50 cube?

[ryshark]

Originally Posted by greaps

Have not tried the gyre out, a lot of mixed reviews on that product jebao or maxspect version. Have seen some users commenting lately that the gyre pumps are better on longer tanks.

From what I have read the jebao gyre gets bad reviews and the maxspect gets good reviews. Not sure about length of tank, but I'm hoping to put the 230 maxspect on the overflow box with the magnet between the black acrylic and the glass.