How to build a CO2 regulator for your calcium reactor.

[Stickboy97]

No, thats why I think its dead. Any way to manually open it?

Any suggestions on a new solenoid? Great time to have one go out, right before a 4 day weekend!

[alanle]

Originally Posted by Stickboy97

I have this same solenoid on a set-up Alan built for me years ago. Can someone tell me what it is? I think it is stuck closed or broken because I am not getting any flow out of my CaRx. I noticed today that my PH was the same in my CaRx as my display and started looking for issues. Bottle has pressure, no knobs have been turned. When I open my needle valve all the way, no CO2 comes out, so that tells me the solenoid is stuck. Any ideas?

Send me a message I'll replace it for you.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

[alanle]

Originally Posted by Stickboy97

No, thats why I think its dead. Any way to manually open it?

Any suggestions on a new solenoid? Great time to have one go out, right before a 4 day weekend!

By the way check your power adapter and see if it's not dead.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

[Stickboy97]

Thanks Alan, wasn't looking for a freebie, but that is awesome. Sending you a pic and a msg!

[Stickboy97]

Here is a pic of the one I have. The power adapter has the green light lit, so I assume it is working fine.

[Stickboy97]

Just want to say thanks again to Alan. I bought my regulator set-up from him in May of 2017!

[enb141]

I got a couple questions

- What is the OD diameter of the HOKE Valve 1335G3YMM?

- What happens if you use a middle flow metering valve instead of a low flow?

- What happens if you buy a regulator that comes with 3000 PSI (high) / 200 PSI (low) and you change the 200 PSI with one that measures 60 PSI?

- For testing leaks you have to turn 100% clockwise the main regulator valve?

[LQT]

Originally Posted by enb141

I got a couple questions

- What is the OD diameter of the HOKE Valve 1335G3YMM?

- What happens if you use a middle flow metering valve instead of a low flow?

- What happens if you buy a regulator that comes with 3000 PSI (high) / 200 PSI (low) and you change the 200 PSI with one that measures 60 PSI?

- For testing leaks you have to turn 100% clockwise the main regulator valve?

1) 3mm

2) A medium flow metering valve will work, but a low flow metering valve is just easier to fine tune your bubble count.

3) You can use a lower range pressure gauge, however, if you adjust for too much pressure, you will damage the pressure gauge and pin the needle at the max pressure reading on the gauge.

4) When testing, based on Alan’s instructions, I turn the main valve 100%. If this is related to question #3, then do the leak test, then replace the gauge.

[enb141]

Originally Posted by LQT

1) 3mm

2) A medium flow metering valve will work, but a low flow metering valve is just easier to fine tune your bubble count.

3) You can use a lower range pressure gauge, however, if you adjust for too much pressure, you will damage the pressure gauge and pin the needle at the max pressure reading on the gauge.

4) When testing, based on Alan’s instructions, I turn the main valve 100%. If this is related to question #3, then do the leak test, then replace the gauge.

So that means if you change the low Gauge you cannot check the leak test because you will damage the pressure gauge.

So if you don't change the low gauge and use the one that comes with the regulator or use the one the regulator is intended for, is safe to turn the main valve to 100% without braking anything?

[LQT]

Originally Posted by enb141

So that means if you change the low Gauge you cannot check the leak test because you will damage the pressure gauge.

So if you don't change the low gauge and use the one that comes with the regulator or use the one the regulator is intended for, is safe to turn the main valve to 100% without braking anything?

Yes, don’t change to the lower range pressure gauge and use the stock one that came with it. Then you can turn the valve to 100% to perform the leak test without risk of damaging the stock gauge. Once it passes the leak test, you’ll know that the regulator’s diaphragm is leak free and sound, then switch to the lower range pressure gauge if you want to.

[enb141]

Originally Posted by LQT

Yes, don’t change to the lower range pressure gauge and use the stock one that came with it. Then you can turn the valve to 100% to perform the leak test without risk of damaging the stock gauge. Once it passes the leak test, you’ll know that the regulator’s diaphragm is leak free and sound, then switch to the lower range pressure gauge if you want to.

Good to know that.


Another question, the HOKE 1325G4Y says that uses 1/4" Gyrolok, do that "Gyrolok" means 1/4" OD normal or is something special?

That HOKE 1325G4Y says Cv 0.02, is that considered Middle or Low?

[LQT]

Gyrolok is good. It’s the exact same thing as Swagelok compression tube fittings that mate together via a ferrule and compression nut.

[enb141]

Originally Posted by LQT

Gyrolok is good. It’s the exact same thing as Swagelok compression tube fittings that mate together via a ferrule and compression nut.

Good, so that means you can plug your CO2 tubbing after the end of the metering valve.

About the 0.024 in, is that good (low enough)?


One more question regarding the leak test, how do you know if you are dialing to 100%, do you need to overtight or how do you know if you have dialed to 100% the main valve?

[LQT]

Yes, the end of your CO2 line is the “tube” portion of the fitting. Insert it and rotate the compression nut 1 and 1/4 turn and the internal ferrule will compress around the tubing for a leak free seal.

You said your stock low pressure gauge reads from 0-200psi which means your regulator has around a 100psi working pressure. You’ll know you’re at max when the low press gauge hits around 100psi and goes no further.

[enb141]

Originally Posted by LQT

Yes, the end of your CO2 line is the “tube” portion of the fitting. Insert it and rotate the compression nut 1 and 1/4 turn and the internal ferrule will compress around the tubing for a leak free seal.

You said your stock low pressure gauge reads from 0-200psi which means your regulator has around a 100psi working pressure. You’ll know you’re at max when the low press gauge hits around 100psi and goes no further.

Cool

Just one final question left, is Cv 0.024 in Hoke 1325G4Y low enough or you think it is too high?

[LQT]

That’s a very good metering valve. I wouldn’t hesitate to use it myself.

[enb141]

Cool, thanks for your tips and help.

[enb141]

Back then when this thread was created, the prices for a stainless steel regulator were $80 for a used one and $180 for a brand new.

Are those prices still valid?

[bettatail]

Originally Posted by enb141

Back then when this thread was created, the prices for a stainless steel regulator were $80 for a used one and $180 for a brand new.

Are those prices still valid?

are you still looking for a good regulator or have already got one?
The price of rare high end stainless steel regulators are much higher than 10 years ago, but occasionally there are good ones that ended with low auction price or seller list the buy it now price low, constantly watching/searching is a good way to hunt down a good regulator at good price.

In the past weeks I bought two regulators, both stainless steel and rare high end double stages, one is concoa 332 for $36, and another is concoa 432 for about $45, both are used though, need to replace some parts or rebuild if necessary.

the hoke milli-mite 1300 you mention is a 3 degree needle stem model, and the 0.024 CV is the max value at 18 turn full open, this valve is ok in its first handle turn, the CV can reach 0.00025, which is about the range that you can adjust the bubbles from 1 to 5 bubbles per second.

check parker metering valve, the H3A(HR3) models, there are some on ebay right now, and 1/8 npt ports, do not need compression tube end adapters.

about the leak check, I am not sure why Alan recommend 100% and hold it there, I normally set to 100% for a couple minutes then lower down to 50-75% for first 6 hours leak test.
you can maximize the output pressure to 100% and hold, but there are a couple conditions, first, is the actual max output can not excess LP gauge max reading, second, you must present and keep an eye on the gauge, or check from time to time, in case the output pressure creep higher and blow the LP gauge or the second stage diaphragm.
also, 100% is the designated max output of the regulator, not turning the handle all the way clockwise, because the actual handle shaft position can be adjusted, the actual max output can be lower or higher than the designated output.

BTW, if the output pressure can not hold still for leak test, the output pressure creep higher and all indications point to regulator internal problem, don't panic, it is indeed an internal valve seat leak at one of the stage, but 9 out of 10 can be fixed, need to open the regulator though.

talk too much, not sure if all the info can be digested, I think it is better to tackle the specific questions...

[enb141]

I'm planning to buy another one, I just bought a Swagelok KCY1FRF412A20000 but I'm also looking for a Matheson (if I find the right price as brand new).

Now about the Parker metering valves, I've been looking for the HR series, they have some info that I don't know:

- Flow capacity goes from 0.03 to 3.4E-4
- Handle varies from No handle, Knurled and Turns counter
- Seal Material goes from Ethylene Propylene, Fluorocarbon Highly Fluorinated Fluorocarbon, Neoprene and Nitrile Rubber

[bettatail]

The Matheson 3810 series stainless steel regulator is the same as prostar/praxair PRX3320 and PRS3032 series regulator, Prostar has another PRX4320 / PRS 4032 series, stainless steel and cost more than the PRX3320/PRS3032.

The chrome plated PRX3120/PRS3012(Matheson 3120) from prostar are also good choice, because the diaphragm is stainless steel.

The parker metering valve, you can get the H0, H1, H2, H3, and maybe H4, skip the H5 and H6, because the lower range of the H0-H3 are ok for low flow control in our application, the lower range threshold of H5, H6 are higher than the low flow control of co2 that we need.
Parker metering valve with TC handle is much better. look better, easy to adjust flow rate and there is marked scale and turn counter to read/set the flow rate, the TC handle is about $125 alone. You can put the TC handle on all model of the Parker HR metering valve.

selection of seal matericals is not matter, because we don't need to deal with the flow media chemical properties or operational condition/temperature. Listed seal material all work for co2 in our application: co2 is pseudo inert gas and we run the co2 in room temperature.

[enb141]

Originally Posted by bettatail

The Matheson 3810 series stainless steel regulator is the same as prostar/praxair PRX3320 and PRS3032 series regulator, Prostar has another PRX4320 / PRS 4032 series, stainless steel and cost more than the PRX3320/PRS3032.

The chrome plated PRX3120/PRS3012(Matheson 3120) from prostar are also good choice, because the diaphragm is stainless steel.

The parker metering valve, you can get the H0, H1, H2, H3, and maybe H4, skip the H5 and H6, because the lower range of the H0-H3 are ok for low flow control in our application, the lower range threshold of H5, H6 are higher than the low flow control of co2 that we need.
Parker metering valve with TC handle is much better. look better, easy to adjust flow rate and there is marked scale and turn counter to read/set the flow rate, the TC handle is about $125 alone. You can put the TC handle on all model of the Parker HR metering valve.

selection of seal matericals is not matter, because we don't need to deal with the flow media chemical properties or operational condition/temperature. Listed seal material all work for co2 in our application: co2 is pseudo inert gas and we run the co2 in room temperature.

Weird according to matheson websited, 3120 series are brass

https://store.mathesongas.com/dual-stage-regulators/

Back to Parker metering valves, H0 means cv = 0.03 right?

So what's the "basic" seal material?

[bettatail]

yes, the matheson 3120 is chrome plated brass stock body, same chassis as 3810, and the diaphragms are stainless steel.

The parker H0 model CV value is 0.0004 at 15 turn full open, you may find it takes many turns to dial to the desire bubble rate...
and I believe the manufacture default sealing material is Buna-N.

[vee]

Hi Alan - Sent you a PM, but I wanted to see if you are still building kits for folks. I would be interested in buying one through you for a CaRX setup. Thanks!

[enb141]

Originally Posted by bettatail

yes, the matheson 3120 is chrome plated brass stock body, same chassis as 3810, and the diaphragms are stainless steel.

The parker H0 model CV value is 0.0004 at 15 turn full open, you may find it takes many turns to dial to the desire bubble rate...
and I believe the manufacture default sealing material is Buna-N.

Thanks for the image, it seems that they show different data on their website

https://ph.parker.com/us/17554/en/25...alve-hr-series


Now I was looking for the solenoid, I was thinking to get a Clippard but unfortunately it seems that they are only brass made (solenoid and manifold) so then after checking the Burkert 6011 is also brass, so I would like to know what SS solenoid and manifold for 1/8" NPT can use?