Vertex Illumina Light Studio Programming Thread

[notclear]

Originally Posted by Animadverto

Thanks for responding. If I do a "complete update", would I still have to specifiy the "Range" for the light pads? Also, Notclear and Luxo have both mentioned something about a "Restart" button if the update doesn't go through. I don't see the "restart" button when I hit the firmware update tab. I just have the "Start" button in a pop up window. Am I missing something? Thanks in advance.

You don't have to specify the Range for Compete Update as it will update all pads.

The Restart button only shows when there is an error during the update.

[Animadverto]

Originally Posted by notclear

You don't have to specify the Range for Compete Update as it will update all pads.

The Restart button only shows when there is an error during the update.

Thanks Notclear. So, theoretically and hopefully practically as well, when I do a complete update, I'm good to go with the UV modules. Right? Is there anything else I need to know when installing the modules and making sure they will work properly after installation?

[notclear]

It should work as it works for me using just the published V1968 firmware. I just followed the red module installation youtube video to install the UV modules. Also press the module onto the heatsink FIRMLY. Note that I don't have the red module and I am not sure whether this makes a difference.

As my fixture has 12 pads, if I remember correctly in my past many updates there was not one single time that I didn't have to restart one or two modules even the wireless signal is under -50dBm. But this Restart button is a life saver when compared with about 20+ months ago I was really panic when there was error during update and I had to physically press the button on the module!

[Heliman]

Same here...just did a full update with V1968 and U/V pads good to go.

A firther U/V question...

I have 4 foot Illumina and I installed 3 U/V pads...I am very happy with the result and got a mind to add more U/V pads in the available spaces (4)
What number of U/V pads are you all using ? What do you think about 7 pads in a 4 foot unit ??

[notclear]

Vertex recommends one UV module for every two feet of the fixture. I ignored their recommendation and installed 4. I am also tempting to add one more but then I am not sure how to acclimate this one additional pad as all the others are now at 60%. These UV modules are quite strong. Although I started from 10% and have increased it by 5% every 5-7 days, I still lost one zoa and one blasto. They were placed mid tank on the front, not in the middle.

[Luxo]

4UV, 3 Red - Illumina 1200

UVs @ 58% now, I've been away for a while but my daughter raises it up by 1% per day!
What are your thoughts on the UV effect? Of couse you get the actinic covered but long term effects; has anyone noticed a color shift yet on any corals?
Cheers,
Dave

[notclear]

Hi Dave,

Do you find that 3 Red is too much? I am thinking of adding either 2 or 3 Red to my 6' fixture. Do you think 2 can give evenly look?

I have looked at some videos with just the Red on, very dominating.

[Luxo]

Originally Posted by notclear

Hi Dave,

Do you find that 3 Red is too much? I am thinking of adding either 2 or 3 Red to my 6' fixture. Do you think 2 can give evenly look?

I have looked at some videos with just the Red on, very dominating.

Correct, the red is super dominant, I think the only reason for 4 Red LEDs on one AUX pad is to have the intense sunset effect other than that I doubt anyone going over 30% or so and even that is too much. even one per pad would be OK!
The only reason I went for 3 Reds was that I wanted the effect be even spread. There is no spotting or dominance in any area, looking at the sand bed you cannot locate the Red or UV pads.
Cheers,
Dave

[notclear]

Thank Dave.

I will wait to see if Vertex has any new auxiliary modules announced in MACNA that is happening from today.

[todd williams]

Just got my used SR1800. WOW! Still trying to figure it all out so I won't bore you too many newbie questions. My 2yr old Solaris died and I was able to find a guy that was tearing his reef down for health reasons. No comparison in the quality of light between the old and new system. Illumina at 50% puts out more light than Solaris at 100%
Can't wait to see how my corals react.

Looking forward to joining your conversation.

[Animadverto]

Originally Posted by notclear

It should work as it works for me using just the published V1968 firmware. I just followed the red module installation youtube video to install the UV modules. Also press the module onto the heatsink FIRMLY. Note that I don't have the red module and I am not sure whether this makes a difference.

As my fixture has 12 pads, if I remember correctly in my past many updates there was not one single time that I didn't have to restart one or two modules even the wireless signal is under -50dBm. But this Restart button is a life saver when compared with about 20+ months ago I was really panic when there was error during update and I had to physically press the button on the module!

Is it still necessary to do a factory reset with this 1968 firmware update? Jamie recommended doing a factory reset in the second step of his "Recommended Procedures" posted in his first posting on UltimateReef. I am wondering if this step is still necessary.

[notclear]

I've never done factory reset because I had performed the update before they posted the procedures! But you may want to follow the recommended steps.

[dparks001]

Hi all,

I seem to have got the day lights all like I want. But the moon light has been a challenge. For anyone who uses the Lunar option....do you get a pretty bright wihite light that shoots on around 9 pm (I guess simulating the moon)? This seems way way way too bright for the moon. How do you control the intensity of the lunar moon or is it automatic?

Thanks! Dave

[notclear]

You should be able to compose the color by changing the intensity. I set mine to only 4%.

[todd williams]

Admittedly, I have limited experience here as I have just finally got my light working properly, night and day, and I am using the lunar cycle.

Are you using V-link and the desktop software?

When you download your graphs from the fixture are they the same as what you uploaded?

Does the white light you describe appear in your graph from the light or is it happening at random?

Like you, I was having unexpected things happen with my light program.
My light was not doing what I had programed it to do. The sun would not set, The moon would not rise, or whites would come on in the middle of the night. It took me a few days to discover that my graphs from the fixture were not the same as what I had uploaded. Some how in the translation they were being altered when I uploaded them. The graphs were similar but there were always some differences. Thus, my light was doing unexpected things.

Solution: I found that if I immediately downloaded my graphs from the fixture after I had uploaded and saved them, I could see if the graph in the light was the same as what I uploaded.
Once I did this, I had to upload a couple of times to get a exact match in the light and I saved that graph. Now my light is functioning perfectly.

I could be wrong but I believe the problem lies in the v-link dongle method to program the light. If you don't have v-link located in a sweet spot to transmit , it sometimes does not work right or not at all. In my basement the signal strength changes all the time with late at night being the worse time to try and communicate with the light. No idea why. I was told by Guenther , one of the Vertex engineers, to try for a signal around -70db. If you get it too close it overpowers the fixture.

Hope that helps you.

[dparks001]

Hey Todd.

Thanks for the reply. I am using the VLink. I love it and got my Day (Sunrise to Sunset) set and it's awesome. I have had some days at 9 pm hit and a white light blasts on and stays on all night. There is nothing on the graphs that depicts this event. I will re upload everything and see if that works. I will also download it back to see what comes back. Thanks for your suggestions. It's a great software tool just not perfected yet - but I know Jamie and his group are working on it. Apparently version 1974 is ready but there is a bug they are fixing before the release.

Thanks! Dave

[geniusloci]

Since I didn't bother before - now I download the program every time I upload new one. If you stay close enough (<65dB) there will be less errors in uploads.

[randyd 501]

Love the fixture ! I can't wait to see my corals flourish with new light. Here is a pic of my program any thoughts or suggestions? I found with new software updates much easier to program
Untitled.jpg

vrtx.jpg

photo (5).jpg

[todd williams]

Hi Randy

My first impression looking at your program is that you are spending a great deal of time getting to max light and relatively little time at the level. My thought is success with that program will depend on what you have in your tank. In my tank my corals thrive on more light at strong levels for longer periods of time. What livestock do you have in your tank and what light levels do they generally like?

Perhaps others will give their impressions.

Good luck with the experiment.

[randyd 501]

Originally Posted by todd williams

Hi Randy

My first impression looking at your program is that you are spending a great deal of time getting to max light and relatively little time at the level. My thought is success with that program will depend on what you have in your tank. In my tank my corals thrive on more light at strong levels for longer periods of time. What livestock do you have in your tank and what light levels do they generally like?

Perhaps others will give their impressions.

Good luck with the experiment.

Thanks for your input many soft corals> I am going to take your advice and stay at max level longer

[crabbyreef]

I have attached photos of my Vertex SR 260 Day and Moon settings. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!

[Shakeeb]

k i start the day at 11 with only W then at 12 all collors are on W B AND RB
12:30 this what i do my W 65% B AND RB 95% till 8 and then no more W and B AND RB 40% till 12 no more light...
i am afraid this is causing my coral to bleach or the need more light i really dont knw i hope if some one tells me what to do (some one who knows what is going to say and used vertex and have sps corals)
thank u very much

[todd williams]

Originally Posted by randyd 501

Thanks for your input many soft corals> I am going to take your advice and stay at max level longer

Soft corals are pretty forgiving. So you can do pretty much whatever you like the look of. From my experience most softies will tolerate a wide range of light levels. You should be fine. I have grown them under compact flourescents, metal halides, Solaris, and now Vertex. They seem to do well with all.

[dparks001]

Originally Posted by Shakeeb

k i start the day at 11 with only W then at 12 all collors are on W B AND RB
12:30 this what i do my W 65% B AND RB 95% till 8 and then no more W and B AND RB 40% till 12 no more light...
i am afraid this is causing my coral to bleach or the need more light i really dont knw i hope if some one tells me what to do (some one who knows what is going to say and used vertex and have sps corals)
thank u very much

I have used these for 3 months and have a mix of SPS and LPS and I would off that you might want to dial down your whites to no more than 25-40%. After all the trial and error I had I set at no more that 75 on other colors (50 on UV) and 25 on whites. It was to intense. And, I have a 150 deep with two SR260s. Just my reality. Everyone's experiences may be different. Good Luck Dave.

[todd williams]

Originally Posted by crabbyreef

I have attached photos of my Vertex SR 260 Day and Moon settings. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!

I am not an expert, but from what I have read your corals see more of the blue and Royal Blue light than to the white light. The whites are more for your taste not your corals. You have your RB light set lower than white. Why did you do that? I would bump that RB up and see how your corals respond.

I have had my fixture running for 4 or 5 weeks now. I have seen a significant change in the coloration of my corals for the better. The brown is leaving and the pigments are getting brighter. My blue and RB are bright and I have toned down my white to about 55%. I am planning to lower that even further. It is not needed. I am also planning to add three UV modules to my 6 ft fixture.